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September 3, 2025
Aakriti Bansal, Medianama
3 September 2025
The Goods and Services Tax (GST) overhaul simplifies India’s tax structure and lowers prices for many goods. However, for e-commerce sellers, the change arrives at the worst possible moment. Platforms and sellers must adjust billing systems, invoices, and inventory records just as the festive season begins.
The festive period drives the highest order volumes of the year, and even minor disruptions in invoicing or compliance ripple through the system. Refunds get delayed, seller–platform relations strain, consumers face frustration, and penalties under GST law escalate. Moreover, the episode shows the fragility of India’s e-commerce compliance infrastructure.
Larger sellers can rely on manpower and technology, but smaller businesses remain disproportionately exposed. Platforms, meanwhile, cannot act as neutral intermediaries when their invoicing systems directly control seller compliance. The question now is whether the government, platforms, and sellers can move fast enough to make structural reforms without turning them into seasonal flashpoints.
What’s the News?
The GST Council, chaired by Finance Minister Nirmala Sitharaman, is meeting today and tomorrow (September 3–4), according to a report by Hindustan Times, to decide on a major overhaul of India’s tax system. The timing has already unsettled e-commerce. Platforms like Amazon, Flipkart, and Meesho are holding back on announcing festive sale dates, while sellers report uncertainty about how to handle inventory already billed at old rates.
Shoppers are delaying big-ticket purchases such as smartphones, televisions, and appliances, creating a visible slowdown in demand. Retailers are carrying higher stock levels, waiting to recalibrate pricing once the Council clarifies the new slabs. The pause comes just before the festive sales period, which typically contributes about a quarter of annual revenues for e-commerce platforms.
What the GST Reforms Are
The government has proposed collapsing the four-tier GST structure of 5%, 12%, 18%, and 28% into two slabs of 5% and 18%. A new 40% tier would apply to luxury and sin goods, replacing the existing compensation-cess mechanism.
If the Council approves, several categories will see rate changes. White goods such as washing machines, air-conditioners, smartphones, refrigerators, and televisions would move from 28% to 18%. Small petrol cars and motorcycles would also shift from 28% to 18%. Essentials including ghee, nuts, namkeen, packaged drinking water, and medical devices would drop from 12% to 5%. Everyday consumer products like toothpaste, shampoo, soap, and ready-to-eat foods would also move into the 5% bracket.
The 40% tier would target high-end cars, premium electric vehicles, tobacco, and pan masala. States have pushed back, warning of revenue losses, and discussions are underway on whether higher levies on luxury items or cess surpluses can offset the shortfall.
Implementation Challenges
Satish Meena of Datum Intelligence, a market research firm, flagged the absence of a transition window as “very tricky.” “Everyone wants to make the change because this is the peak sale time,” Meena explained. “But the challenge is how it will be implemented for goods already in warehouses. Once inventory has moved from the company to the warehouse under the old GST, how will you pass on the benefit to the customer?”
Devangshu Dutta, chief executive of Third Eyesight, a retail consulting firm, pointed to similar risks. “Sellers will need to rapidly adjust pricing strategies and inventory details, keeping in mind that the festive season is upon us,” Dutta explained. “One would hope that the changeover of rates doesn’t create supply unpredictability in this critical season.”
Abhishek A. Rastogi, founder of Rastogi Chambers, a law firm specialising in indirect tax and regulatory matters, warned about compliance fallout.“From a compliance perspective, the biggest challenge will be ensuring real-time alignment between product listings, tax rates, and invoices generated. Even a minor mismatch in billing, particularly during the high-volume festive season, could result in serious exposure,” Rastogi said.
Impact on Smaller Sellers
Experts agreed that smaller sellers carry the heaviest burden. “Larger sellers with manpower and technology will cope faster. Smaller sellers will face particular challenges,” Meena noted.
Dutta explained why smaller businesses feel the squeeze. “Businesses of all sizes face the burden of compliance and accurate reporting, but smaller businesses feel the impact disproportionately as their management resources are far more limited. Often it is the owner-manager, the most critical human resource in a small business, whose time gets sucked into ensuring the changes go through smoothly,” he said.
Moreover, Rastogi advised small sellers to act defensively. “Smaller sellers must ensure they maintain proper records of their communications with platforms, raise tickets on billing mismatches, and document tax advice received. Such proactive record-keeping will protect them if litigation arises later. They should also consider contractual safeguards when signing with platforms,” he said.
Platforms Under Pressure
Platforms also operate under strain. Meena pointed out that festive sales remain unannounced. “Typically, the sales should be in the week of October 13–14, or the following week. That has not been announced till now because of this GST issue,” he said.
Dutta argued that platforms must step in to steady sellers. “Sales, inventory, and return reconciliation is an ongoing issue and potential point of dissatisfaction among sellers. To avoid adding to this, e-commerce platforms need to provide enhanced seller support to smooth out the turbulence during the GST changeover,” he said.
Rastogi underlined that platforms share liability. “Legally, the burden to discharge GST liability lies on the seller. However, given that invoicing systems are often managed by e-commerce platforms, there is a shared responsibility to ensure the correct GST rate is applied. Any platform-level error that causes sellers to become non-compliant could become a contentious issue,” he explained.
He also laid out remedies. “Sellers impacted due to platform-level glitches can seek remedies under contract law and indemnity clauses in their agreements with the platform. They may also explore legal recourse if non-compliance is triggered without their fault. Ultimately, disputes of this nature will test how liability is apportioned between sellers and platforms,” Rastogi mentioned.
Consumer and Market Effects
The uncertainty already shapes consumer behaviour. “There is already a decline in demand over the last two weeks as customers are delaying purchases, waiting for festive discounts,” Meena observed. “If sales are pushed too close to Diwali, customers may move to offline stores where delivery is immediate and pricing on appliances can match e-commerce.”
Notably, Dutta pointed out that offline businesses could benefit. “Small offline businesses that don’t have GST numbers and don’t need to compile GST returns may be able to quickly benefit from lower input costs and may be able to become more price competitive,” he said.
Need for Government Clarity
Both Dutta and Rastogi called for immediate guidance.
Dutta warned that reforms must not create “supply unpredictability in this critical season.”
Rastogi pressed for intervention. “There is a strong case for the government to issue clarificatory circulars or transitional relief, particularly given the festive season volumes. Without such guidance, both sellers and platforms face a high risk of disputes, and the compliance ecosystem may be overburdened,” he noted.
Why It Matters
The GST reforms land as festive season spending sets the direction for the retail year. E-commerce platforms draw about a quarter of their annual revenues during this period, and sellers use these weeks to recover margins. Datum Intelligence estimates that online shoppers will spend around Rs. 1,20,000 crore in 2025, up 27% from 2024, with quick commerce taking 12% of that share. At this scale, even small invoicing or compliance errors can lock up billions of rupees in disputed sales.
The reforms already shape consumer behaviour. Shoppers hold back purchases while they wait for clarity on tax rates, and platforms face pressure to adjust quickly. If festive sales move closer to Diwali, buyers may switch to offline stores that match appliance prices and provide immediate delivery.
The rollout will show whether platforms and sellers manage a nationwide tax change in the middle of their busiest season or allow it to disrupt India’s largest online retail channel.
(Published in Medianama)
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August 31, 2025
Akanksha Nagar, Storyboard18
31 August 2025
The latest round of US tariffs- a steep 50% duty that kicked in last week- is reshaping the playbook for Indian brands eyeing global markets. While exporters brace for tighter margins and logistical hurdles in the US, experts say this disruption could be a defining moment for Indian consumer brands to shine globally by leaning on innovation, design strength, and the untapped potential of India’s domestic consumption story.
“With the 50% tariffs kicking in, what will India do? Expect an inward-looking India! Expect a deep focus on #IndiaForIndia as marketers develop the India-consumption story for Indian produce. Expect even a Swadeshi movement Ver 3.0. MNCs in India face pressure,” says brand guru Harish Bijoor, founder of Harish Bijoor Consults Inc.
Riding high on this wave is India Circus, which is emerging as one of the fastest-growing players in the new-age home décor space. With a growing appetite for aesthetics, the brand is redefining how Indians furnish their homes. As urban consumers grow more design-aware and seek products that reflect personal taste and cultural identity, design-forward brands are carving out their own niche.
“Consumers today want more than just functionality. They want form, flair, and a sense of identity in their living spaces,” says Devangshu Dutta, founder and CEO of Third Eyesight. This shift, he explains, is creating tailwinds for brands that can deliver both design value and cultural resonance.
But he also adds a note of caution in the tariff context: “Indian brands that are being exported to the US face margin pressures and reduced US market access, both due to import tariffs and due to logistical barriers. They may need to hold inventory in the US to reduce the tariff and shipping impact, but that would also be at a certain cost and loss of agility.
It is an opportune time to focus on exports to other markets. Of course, no other single market would have the scale offered by the USA, so it will perhaps be more expensive and a more fragmented growth.”
Founded by Krsnaa Mehta and now part of the Godrej Enterprises Group, India Circus has found the sweet spot between Indo-contemporary aesthetics and wide accessibility.
From crockery with 22-carat gold accents to tropical wallpapers and statement furniture, its design-led offerings have struck a chord with India’s style-conscious consumers. The brand has also forayed into fashion, while preparing to tap international markets through a new e-commerce platform. “Design is not just an add-on for us; it is our core. Every collection begins with a story, and that’s what keeps our customers coming back,” says Mehta.
On the impact of Trump’s tariffs, Mehta clarifies that the brand remains largely insulated.
“Our major consumer base is in India, we have been focused on expanding our reach and tapping unexplored markets in India. India has so much potential- the newer markets of tier-2 cities like Lucknow, Gurugram, Chandigarh, Ambala are exceptional and the buying power of our consumers has increased significantly in the past few years. So we are not really worried about the tariffs, considering that our designing, production and selling is totally in India. Yes, we do export to the US, but it is not really comparable to what we do in India.”
Yet, he views the moment as a wake-up call for Indian brands globally.
“As a proud Indian brand, we have always been at the forefront of innovation, evolving our design aesthetics from bold prints to more contemporary ones. Our consumers are now visually informed and thus we must keep evolving. It is not just moving ahead but also embracing our roots and creating what is best for not just one but for all. India Circus has always tried to democratise design, by making it affordable and providing great quality at great prices.”
India Circus’s growth is fueled by an omnichannel strategy that blends a strong digital presence with 18 (soon to be 28) offline stores, while aggressively expanding in tier-2 cities.
The brand is targeting ₹400 crore in revenue by FY2026, up from its current ₹100 crore. Having recently launched international website to serve the Middle East and Asia, tt is also exploring categories such as gifting, licensing, and royalty-based partnerships, alongside plans to scale manufacturing. Warehousing in Europe and North America is also under evaluation.
“The growing demand for sustainable, high-quality products has contributed to our growth, as consumers increasingly seek out brands that share their values. Our designers leverage consumer insights, in-house research, and sales data to create products that are both stylish and relevant. We proudly invest in Indian craftsmanship and manufacturing, eschewing imports from countries like China. This approach not only supports local economies but also enables us to maintain quality standards,” Mehta says.
Meanwhile, brands like Chumbak, who were once synonymous with playful, funky aesthetics, have had a patchier journey in the domestic market. At one point, Chumbak had drawn strong private equity interest and grew aggressively, only to later downsize and recalibrate. But Bisen cautions against equating it with India Circus: “Chumbak has always been broader in scope, and that universality may have made it less nimble when it came to capturing specific consumer segments within home decor.”
India Circus, in contrast, has stayed tightly focused, defining its identity around a clear aesthetic and target audience. This discipline, experts say, is crucial in a market that’s growing but fragmented.
“Most brands in the design-led home space operate in sub-categories. Very few cover the full décor spectrum,” Dutta notes. “The key is having a well-defined look and sticking to it.”
According to Statista, in 2025, India’s home décor market was worth $2.13 billion and is projected to grow at a CAGR of 8.6% through 2029. In comparison, the US market stands at $37 billion.
India’s growth is powered by its rising middle class, a young population hungry for differentiated products, and cultural emphasis on interior design. With gifting and new household formation boosting demand further, design-led Indian brands are positioned for deeper expansion, both at home and abroad.
For now, India Circus is leading that charge, proving that even as tariffs disrupt trade flows, Indian creativity, design, and resilience are ready to outshine globally.
(Published in Storyboard18)
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August 21, 2025
Praveen Paramasivam, Reuters
August 21, 2025
Summary
India's luxury beauty market to quintuple by 2035
Domestic brands account for less than a tenth of sales
Global brands modify offerings for IndiaIndia’s luxury beauty market is expected to quintuple to $4 billion by 2035 from $800 million in 2023, driven by its young, affluent, social-media savvy shoppers with rising disposable incomes, consulting firm Kearney and luxury beauty distributor LUXASIA said in a report.
Luxury beauty makes up just 4% of the $21-billion beauty and personal care market, compared with 8% to 24% across top Southeast Asian countries and 25% to 48% in developed markets including China and the United States.
That means there is plenty of room for growth.
“India is the last bastion of growth for premium beauty,” said Sameer Jindal, managing director for investment bank Houlihan Lokey’s corporate finance business in India.
“The Indian consumer is willing to experiment and try out new things.”
U.S. beauty giant Estee Lauder home to the brands Clinique and MAC, expects a strong runway for expansion and long-term growth in India, even as it grapples with soft sales in the Americas and Asia-Pacific.
“India today, within the Estee Lauder network, is looked at as one of the priority emerging markets,” said country general manager Rohan Vaziralli, highlighting plans to initially target 60 million women in the nation of more than 1.4 billion.
Homemaker R. Priyanka, based in the southern city of Chennai, said she was thrilled to have better access to Estee Lauder’s Jo Malone London fragrance in India, as a benefit of the companies’ efforts.
“It is easier than asking someone (abroad) to get it for you every time,” she added.
While global beauty brands might have to modify some of their products for India, which bakes in sultry temperatures in summer and oppressive humidity at other times, they face little competition from homegrown brands.
Kearney and LUXASIA identified only Forest Essentials and Kama Ayurveda as their major rivals, underscoring how domestic brands make up less than a tenth of luxury beauty sales.
In the more established markets of China, Japan and South Korea by comparison, domestic brands account for a 40% share.
“There is, of course, a premium perception gap between globally established brands and Indian brands,” said Devangshu Dutta, founder of retail consultancy Third Eyesight.
Global beauty giants’ huge marketing budgets also give them an edge over domestic brands, other industry watchers said.
WOOING INDIAN SHOPPERS
Estee Lauder is studying online sales patterns to identify the smaller cities to target, such as Siliguri in West Bengal state, partnering with designers such as Sabyasachi Mukherjee, and launching products such as kohl, an eyeliner Indians favour.
It has also invested in Forest Essentials, a brand with herbal ingredients, and in a programme offering funding to domestic beauty start-ups.
This year France’s L’Oreal said it was investing more in India and tapping into the “elevated beauty desires” of the nation’s young, digitally savvy, empowered women shoppers to drive growth. It declined further comment.
South Korea’s Amorepacific, known for brands such as Innisfree and Etude, is trying to leverage the Korean beauty craze in India with products geared to the market.
These include items for the popular “cleanser, serum, moisturiser, and sunscreen” beauty regimen, the country head, Paul Lee, said.
Japan’s Shiseido, with a history of more than 150 years, brought its NARS brand to Indian beauty retailer Nykaa’s website this year, and plans to step up growth of its brands in the subcontinent.
Global brands are very excited about India, where consumers are splurging more to stay on top of trends such as “cherry makeup”, Nykaa co-founder Adwaita Nayar said, referring to a look featuring flushed cheeks, glossy lips, and soft pink eyes.
Amazon, which has also been seeing a big boom in beauty demand in India, aims to identify emerging global trends and bring in more brands, said Siddharth Bhagat, director of beauty and fashion at the e-commerce company in India.
Retailer Shoppers Stop, which also pioneers foreign labels, plans to open 15 to 20 beauty stores in each of the next three years to boost its revenue from the segment to a quarter from less than a fifth now, its beauty business CEO Biju Kassim said.
Reporting by Praveen Paramasivam in Chennai; Editing by Dhanya Skariachan and Clarence Fernandez
(Published on Reuters)
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August 18, 2025
Hiral Goyal, The Morning Context
18 August 2025
A trend that has been playing out through big and small changes over the last two decades is that in urban India the kirana store is easily replaceable.
When it comes to buying groceries, urban Indians have a number of options. They can visit a fancy supermarket run by a conglomerate or order online through a number of e-commerce and instant-delivery companies. And if the above doesn’t seem easy enough, they can hop over to a nearby mom-and-pop store.
It would appear it is now the turn of smaller towns in the country to witness the kirana disruption. Even though 99% of grocery shopping in these tier-3 cities is done through neighborhood general stores, there are startups that believe this is an outdated and inefficient form of retail and a change is in order.
One such company is SuperK. The startup’s mission is to build a grocery store model in small towns that has all of the advantages of modern retail packed in a compact 800-square-foot store. This is what Anil Thontepu and Neeraj Menta had set out to do when they founded the company in 2019. The idea was to bring a modern trade-like grocery shopping experience to small-town India a wide assortment of products at a better value.
“There is a cost-efficient world of general trade and a customer-loving world of modern retail,” says Thontepu. “We wanted to see if we can bridge this gap…and do something for the small-town people by bringing the best of both these worlds.”
Over the past five years, the Bengaluru-headquartered startup has opened over 130 stores across 80 towns in Andhra Pradesh. And it doesn’t want to stop there. The company wants to expand to another 300 towns in Andhra Pradesh and nearby states of Karnataka and Telangana over the next 24, months. That’s quite an ambitious target. But the founders believe the market size for Superk is so large that they should be able to build a Rs 2,000-3,000 стоore ($228-342 million) annual business from Andhra and Telangana alone.
To fuel this expansion, Superk raised Rs 100 crore ($11.7 million) in Series B funding last month. The round, led by Binny Bansal’s 3STATE Ventures and CaratLane founder Mithun Sacheti, valued Superk at 2-2.5x its previous valuation of Rs 160 crore (about $18.25 million) in 202/
Now, Superk is not entirely unique. It competes with startups like Frendy, Apna Mart and Wheelocity, which are also trying to organize the retail market in India’s smaller towns. What sets SuperK apart is its larger, bolder approach. Grocery chain Apna Mart, for instance, runs franchisee stores in tier-2 or tier-3 markets and also offers 15-minute home delivery, SuperK’s focus is only on supermarkets. Frendy operates mini-marts and micro-kiranas in villages and towns with fewer than 10,000 people, but SuperK targets small towns with populations between 20,000 and 500,000. And Wheelocity supplies only fresh produce to rural areas, while Superk sells dry groceries as well as packaged consumer goods.
This rather radical shift in focus-away from tier-1 and tier-2 cities-ties in with India’s changing consumption pattern. “Consumer mindsets are changing even in smaller cities,” says Devangshu Dutta, founder and chief executive of Third Eyesight, adding that these consumers are beginning to favour more modern retail environments. And NielsenIQ’s latest report says rural markets in India grew twice as fast as cities between April and June 2025.
In this landscape, SuperK fits like a glove, with its franchise-first approach. Thanks to an asset-light model, the company has the agility to go deeper into smaller towns.
But it won’t be all that easy either. As Dutta says, “Changing grocery habits is a long, capital-intensive game.” Moreover, big retail chains are also jumping on the bandwagon. Hypermarket chain Vishal Mega Mart, for instance, already operates 47% of its stores in tier-3 cities and plans to expand into cities with populations exceeding 50,000. Supermarket chain operator DMart is also focusing on tier-2 and tier-3 cities.
However, Superk founders believe they are prepared for the challenge. Menta says the startup has arrived at a business model that is scalable, sustainable and, more importantly, offers value to its customers.
It’s too early to say whether they will be successful in this endeavour. That said, SuperK appears to have built a smart retail business for small-town India.
Refining small-town retail
SuperK’s founders have drawn inspiration from domestic and international retail chains like DMart and Costco. But they haven’t duplicated their strategies and made their own tweaks instead. For instance, large retail chains usually run company-owned and company operated, or COCO, stores. Though this approach is more cost-intensive than the franchise model, it allows a company to ensure a uniform customer experience across all outlets:
Superk doesn’t do that. It runs only franchise-owned and franchise-operated (FOFO) stores, which are no bigger than 800 sq ft. The company is not the first to have experimented with this model, but Thontepu believes that everyone else before them “did not try with the right spirit”. A franchise-owned store, argues co-founder Menta, is run differently from a company-owned store one has to keep in mind the store owner’s incentives, needs and concerns.
Under the franchise model, entrepreneurs invest between Rs 12 lakh (about $13,690) and Rs 15 lakh (about $17,110) to set up a Superk store. Of this, Rs 4 lakh (nearly $4,560) is spent on the store fit-out and infrastructure, the rest goes towards buying inventory. These stores, according to Menta, typically achieve a breakeven point after six months. On average, a retail store takes longer than that-12-15 months to reach breakeven.
Superk fills the shelves by procuring its inventory directly from brands as well as distributors. “The inventory is recommended by us through a mobile application. Store owners have an option to make certain changes within the limits that we have set for them,” says Thontepu. Revenue is shared and the model is similar to the one followed by nearly all retailers in India. Franchisees earn varying levels of margins on different kinds of products, depending on how easy or tough it is to sell those items. For instance, staples like dal and rice have lower margins, while confectionary items and products that need greater effort to sell enjoy higher margins of up to 20%.
In addition to this, there’s a private label business, especially loose items like pulses. In fact, private labelling is part of the company’s efforts to bring some standardization in India’s unorganized retail market. “A customer coming to our store should be able to blindly expect consistent quality on the product they’re buying,” says Menta. “We have organized our sourcing, processing, cleaning, packaging, testing. Everything that a brand would do to provide a great-quality product to their customer.”
Unlike distributors or other retailers who operate franchise models though, Superk claims that it does not dump its inventory on store owners. Menta says the franchise structure is designed in a way that Superk does not benefit from selling unnecessary stock to store owners. “If I lose, he will lose. If he loses, I lose. That is the way (the structure) is created. We, in fact, recommend owners to remove some products if they are not selling.” says Menta.
On the customer side of things, Superk’s value proposition comes down to offering the best prices. More than a year ago, for instance, it introduced a membership programme that offers customers cashback that is redeemable on their future purchases. “If they pay Rs 300 [approximately $3.5) for a six-month membership, they get 10% cashback on all purchases that they are making up to Rs 300 every month,” explains Thontepu. He says 35-40% of Superk’s more than 500,000 customers are enrolled in this programme.
All of this sounds good even promising in theory. But will it be enough to build a sustainable and scalable retail business?
A long, hard look
Let’s first look at what really works in SuperK’s favour.
One, the focus on selling staples under a private label brand. This has been done successfully before. One example is Nilgiri’s, one of India’s oldest supermarket chains.
Founded in 1905, Niligiri’s operated under a franchise model and sold dairy, baked goods, chocolates and other items produced under its own brand. The supermarket chain was sold by debt-ridden Future Group for Rs 67 crore ($7.65 million) in 2023, less than one-third the price the latter paid to acquire the company from private equity firm Actis in 2014. However, its history is worth learning from.
Shomik Mukherjee, a Delhi-based consumer goods advisor who was a partner at Actis while the firm was in control of Nilgiri’s, recalls the value proposition created by Nilgiri’s private label products. “In the case of private labels, it is essential for a company to have a reason why people will walk into that store. For Nilgiri’s, it was bakery and dairy products,” says Mukherjee. Owning a private label that brought in customers also ensured that franchisee owners had incentives to continue working with Nilgiri’s. “It is about giving the franchisees a safe portfolio of private label goods that are desired by customer instead of something that is shoved down the franchisees’ throat to derive margin,” he says.
You see, the overall grocery business operates on a very low margin. But private labelling, says Satish Meena, founder of Datum Intelligence, offers the highest margins – 35-40% – in the grocery business, after fresh produce, making it a lucrative business to get into.
Superk, which sells essential items through its private label, has the opportunity to earn better margins in grocery retail. More importantly, private labelling holds the potential to become SuperK’s identity and boost customer retention and loyalty.
Two, SuperK’s franchise model allows it to expand to more locations rapidly as compared to a regular modern trade chain with company-owned stores, says Mukherjee. This model makes SuperK’s business asset-light and brings down the cost of running a network of stores. “Under this model, the franchisor does not incur the upfront cost of opening a store or having to deal with the trouble of hiring and replacing store managers,” he adds. Since most store owners in a franchise model are landowners, there is a greater stability in operations as well, he explains. Moreover, Superk stores are quite small (800 sq ft), allowing easier availability of property.
The franchise model, however, is not entirely foolproof. One of the inherent problems is the difficulty in implementing standard operating procedures (SOPs) across all stores. And the problem only worsens as the company expands operations to different cities. While Superk stores boast a no-frills fit-out that can be easily set up anywhere, how these stores are maintained through the wear and tear over the years is yet to be seen.
A bigger fear is that the store owner may start running their own store without the Superk branding. “If Superk loses the franchisee owner, it also loses the location in which the store was operating,” says Mukherjee.
Moreover, most franchisee owners in the retail business typically tend to be experienced general store owners who might not be willing to adopt new technology. “Since they have run a store before, they think they know how and what to order for inventory and may not follow SuperK’s tech-enabled recommendations,” says Mukherjee.
There’s another problem. While the founders claim to have seen considerable success (35-40% sign-ups) in the rollout of SuperK’s membership programme for customers, Third Eyesight’s Dutta raises concerns about its future growth. “Indian consumers’ price sensitivity limits membership fee potential,” he says. According to him, the programme’s value in the tier-3 market lies more in customer acquisition and retention than direct revenue generation. “Long-term success requires a cashback programme to drive purchase frequency and basket size increases to offset the costs,” says Dutta.
Menta, however, has a different view. He says SuperK’s subscription is designed in a way that benefits customers only when they make full basket purchases. Moreover, the company has different pricing slabs for membership depending on the various basket sizes, which makes the model more viable. Considering the programme is a little more than a year old, it is still too early to judge whether it will find a lot of takers in small towns.
For now, the founders are in no hurry to expand their business across India. “There is no reason to go into five states. Then, you are spread thin and your economics will not work out. It’s a business of managing operations at a very low cost,” says Menta. The plan is to stick to one region and continue to go deeper into it. “A lot of our competitors who started five years ago spread to so many places that it became very difficult for them to manage,” he adds.
This is also the crux of how Thontepu and Menta are building SuperK. By implementing what they have learnt not only from their own experiments, but also from the failures and successes of other businesses. While there’s no guarantee that Superk will become a roaring success, it does appear to have set an example by starting small and growing patiently. And if the latest funding is any proof, investors are interested.
(With inputs from Neethi Lisa Rojan)
(Published in The Morning Context)
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August 6, 2025
Naini Thaker, Forbes India
Aug 06, 2025
It’s a known fact that of the thousands of startups founded each year, only a small fraction survive—and even fewer scale to become unicorns. Rarer still are those unicorns which, after reaching dizzying heights, come crashing down. The Good Glamm Group is one such cautionary tale.
Once celebrated as a unicorn that cracked the code on content-to-commerce, the company’s meteoric rise was matched only by the speed of its unravelling. At the heart of its downfall lies a critical misstep: The relentless pursuit of growth through acquisitions and brand launches, even as cracks in its house-of-brands model began to show. Instead of pausing to consolidate and build sustainably, Good Glamm doubled down—prioritising valuation over viability.
That strategy came to a head on July 23 when founder and CEO Darpan Sanghvi announced the dissolution of the group’s house-of-brands structure. In a LinkedIn post, Sanghvi confirmed that lenders would now oversee the sale of individual brands, effectively ending the company’s vision of building a digital-first FMCG conglomerate.
Despite raising $30 million in 2024 and undergoing multiple rounds of restructuring, the group failed to integrate its acquisitions or generate sustainable profitability. With key investors such as Accel and Bessemer Venture Partners exiting the board and leadership turnover accelerating, the company’s ambitious empire—built on rapid expansion and aggressive brand aggregation—has now been reduced to a lender-led breakup.
In the aftermath of the announcement, Sanghvi offered a candid reflection on what went wrong. “In hindsight, it wasn’t one decision, one market force, or one acquisition. It was three levers we pulled, which together, turned Momentum into a Trap,” he wrote in a LinkedIn post. According to Sanghvi, the group’s downfall stemmed from doing “too much, too fast and too big”.
He elaborated: “At first, Momentum feels like your greatest ally. Every headline, every funding round, every big launch is a shot of adrenaline. And you start believing you can do more and more and more. But momentum has a dark side. If you stop steering and go in a hundred different directions, it doesn’t just carry you forward, it drags you faster and faster until you can’t breathe.”
Where The Model Broke?
In October 2017, Sanghvi launched direct-to-consumer (DTC) beauty brand MyGlamm. Most brands at the time were big on selling on marketplaces such as Amazon or Nykaa. However, Sanghvi believed, “We wanted to be truly DTC and not just digitally enabled. We believed that to own the customer, the transaction needs to happen on our own platform.”
But the biggest challenge with being a DTC brand is its customer acquisition cost (CAC). Towards the end of 2019, the company was spending about $15 (over ₹1,000) to acquire a customer to transact on their website. “Around the same time, our revenue run rate was ₹100 crore. We were spending about $0.5 million to acquire 30,000 customers a month. That’s when we realised it was time to solve the CAC problem,” Sanghvi told Forbes India in 2022. In an attempt to find a solution, Sanghvi turned to the content-to-commerce model.
And then, started the acquisition spree. According to Sanghvi, with a single brand in a single category one can’t build scale. He told Forbes India, “The most you can scale it is ₹1,000 crore, if you want a company that’s doing ₹8,000 or ₹10,000 crore in revenue, it has to be multiple brands across multiple categories.” In hindsight, this perspective might be debatable.
As Devangshu Dutta, founder of consultancy Third Eyesight, points out, the “house of brands” model is essentially a modern-day consumer-facing business conglomerate—and its success hinges on multiple factors working in harmony. While there are examples globally and in India of such models thriving, both privately and publicly, the reality is far more nuanced. “Brands take time to grow, and organisations take time to mature,” Dutta notes, emphasising that rapid aggregation of founder-led businesses under a single ownership umbrella is no guarantee of success.
In recent years, Dutta feels the influx of capital into early-stage startups and copycat models—often seen as lower risk due to their success in other geographies—has shortened business lifecycles and inflated expectations. The hope is that synergies across the portfolio will unlock outsized value, but that rarely plays out as planned. “It is well-documented that more than 70 percent of mergers and acquisitions fail,” he adds, citing reasons such as weak brand fundamentals, lack of synergy, inadequate capital, limited management bandwidth, and internal misalignment.
In the case of Good Glamm, these fault lines became increasingly visible as the group expanded faster than it could integrate or stabilise.
Scaling Without Steering
In FY21, the company had losses of ₹43.63 crore, which rose to ₹362.5 crore in FY22 and went up to ₹917 crore in FY23. Despite the mounting losses, Good Glamm marked its entry into the US market, in a joint venture with tennis player Serena Williams to launch a new brand—Wyn Beauty by Serena Williams. The launch was in partnership with US-based beauty retailer Ulta Beauty.
For its international expansion, it invested close to ₹250 crore over three years. “We anticipate that the international business will account for 25 to 35 percent of our total group revenues by the end of next year. This strategic focus on international expansion is pivotal as we prepare for our IPO in October 2025,” he told Forbes India in April 2024.
Clearly, things didn’t pan out as expected. As Sanghvi rightly points out, it was indeed a momentum trap. “You tell yourself you’ll fix the leaks after the next milestone. But the milestones keep coming, and so do the leaks. Soon, you’re running from fire to fire, never realising that the whole building is getting hotter. And somewhere along the way, you lose the stillness to think,” he writes on his LinkedIn post.
Dutta feels that a strong balance sheet is the most fundamental requirement, “to provide growth-funding for the acquisitions or for allowing the time needed for the acquisitions to mature into self-sustaining businesses over years. In the case of VC-funded businesses, the pressure to scale in a short time can go against what may be best for the business or for its individual brands”.
The Good Glamm Group’s fall is a reminder that scale alone doesn’t build resilience. Its story reflects the risks of expanding faster than a business can integrate, and of prioritising valuation over value. The house-of-brands model can work—but only when backed by strategic clarity, operational discipline, and patience. This is less a warning and more a reminder for founders: Scale is not success, and speed is not strategy.
(Published in Forbes India)