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March 20, 2025
Sagar Malviya, Economic Times
Mumbai, 20 March 2025
Established beauty product makers such as Forest Essentials, Colorbar, Kama Ayurveda, Body Shop, VLCC Personal Care and Lotus Herbals saw a slowdown in sales growth in FY24, according to the latest Registrar of Companies filings. Consumers favoured new-age rivals such as Minimalist and Pilgrim, specialised derma brands, as well as global labels Shiseido, Innisfree and Eucerin.
Sales growth of established brands mostly in the natural skincare segment, more than halved to single digits during the previous financial year amid a broader economic slump.
In contrast, companies such as L’Oreal, Nykaa and Sephora continued to grow at 12-34% on a significantly bigger base, even as they lost pace.
Direct-to-consumer brand Pilgrim more than doubled its sales, Minimalist’s revenue increased 80% and Foxtale’s sales surged 500% on a lower base.
“With most consumers tightening their budget on discretionary spends in FY24, they seem to have opted for brands that give instant benefits compared to natural products, which take time to be effective,” said Devangshu Dutta, founder of retail consulting firm Third Eyesight.
Over the past few years, there has been a flurry of beauty product launches, which have depended on platforms such as Nykaa and Tira for sales.
In the past two years, Nykaa has launched more than 350 brands, or In the past two years, or nearly one new label every alternate day on average.
This includes international brands such as CeraVe, Uriage and Versed, as well as home-grown brands such as Foxtale and Hyphen.
Reliance Retail, which entered beauty retailing with Tira two years ago, now sells nearly 1,000 brands, including exclusive labels such as Akind, Augustinus Badee, Allies of Skin, Kundal and Patchology.
“10 years ago we were only competing against big guys,” Vincent Karney, global chief executive of Beiersdorf, maker of Eucerin, Nivea and La Prakrit, told ET last month. “Now we have those local brands, and we have to become a bit more agile.”
On Nykaa, Fenty Beauty by Rihanna is the highest-selling brand in lipcare while Eucerin has become its biggest premium dermo-cosmetic serum. South Korean beauty brands Axis-Y, Tirtir and Numbuzin grew over 60% in 2024, with sales of toners increasing 104%, serums 45%, moisturisers 52% and sunscreens 154% on the platform.
VLCC and Colorbar did not respond to ET queries, while Forest Essentials was not reachable.
In January, Mike Jatania, cofounder and executive chairman of The Body Shop and Aurea Group, told ET, “There would be continuation of new entrants. Inflation is still a global issue and we will see the pressure. Competitive environment will be a challenge… 70% of our stores are showing decent growth. We have closed some stores and opened a few also, that’s the nature of the business.”
Ingredients Matter
Warnery of Beiersdorf emphasised the need to stay focused on “big innovation, by being able to talk to GenZ, (a position) which might be filled in by those local brands coming with basic ingredients.”
The likes of Minimalist, Ordinary and Pilgrim disclose active ingredients at a granular level, specifying the exact percentage of acid used in the product to appeal to GenZ users (those born between 1997 and early 2010s), who are said to be far more conscious of what they use on their skin compared to millennials (those born during 1980s to mid-1990s) and Gen X (those born from about 1965 to 1980).
Shoppers Stop, which manages brands such as Estee Lauder, Shiseido, Bobbi Brown, Mac and Clinique in India, sees the overall beauty market driven by companies focusing on consumers across age groups, and not just younger ones. Both natural and dermatological products are expected to find takers.
“While most new age brands tap younger cohorts, their pocket size allows them to mostly buy affordable products and the more affluent consumers opt for established global brands that have proven themselves since decades,” said Biju Kassim, chief executive, beauty, at Shoppers Stop. “Beauty is still not a habit in India and with hundreds of brands being launched, the focus is to grow penetration. There is also a shift from care to cure, driven by derma-recommended products and brands disclosing active ingredients, but it is still a niche sub-segment.”
Dutta of Third Eyesight sees the current trend as temporary. “We expect growth of (established) companies to bounce back in the current fiscal, driven by a strong demand for beauty,” he said, pointing especially to online platforms. India’s beauty and personal care market is expected to reach $34 billion by 2028, up from $21 billion now, driven by an online surge and a growing preference for high quality, premium beauty products according to a report by Nykaa and consulting firm Redseer.
Nicolas Hieronimus, chief executive of cosmetics giant L’Oreal, last year said consumers in India are more demanding and are not just settling for very basic things like putting an ingredient in a product such as salicylic acid or collagen. “That’s where L’Oreal has the best cards to play, and that’s where we really thrive,” he had told ET.
Beiersdorf, Unilever, L’Oreal and Shiseido, among the world’s largest cosmetics companies, have all identified India as a key growth driver, citing the burgeoning population and growing affinity for beauty products.
(Published in Economic Times)
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March 7, 2025
Shailja Tiwari, Financial Express
March 7, 2025
This is what happens when you hit the gym after a long pause. On your first rebound day, the same weights seem heavier, the same set of squats tires you quicker. You might feel frustrated – nothing seems the way you left it.
The same scenario faces brands looking to make a comeback. Those “muscles” – read brand loyalty -have lost strength due to long absence. The brand’s “stamina”- customer loyalty – have declined with neglect. All of which essentially means you need a relook at the entire “regimen” – the product, price, place and promotion – that seemed to work the last time around.
Men’s fashion brand Reid & Taylor is facing the same dilemma.
Launched in India in 1998, the brand vanished from the market in 2018 after S Kumars – which held the rights to manufacture and market the Scottish brand in India went bankrupt. Reid & Taylor is making a gradual comeback now, under the aegis of its new owner Finquest Group, complete with a campaign featuring new brand ambassador Vicky Kaushal and tagline, “Man on a Mission”.
Finquest Group has invested over ₹750 crore in revitalising the brand. Reid & Taylor is available in more than 1,200 multi-brand and exclusive brand outlets across the country, as per a company announcement.
In January, Reid & Taylor also announced its partnership with the Unicommerce to knit together the brand’s website, warehouses, physical stores, and other online platforms in one integrated network. The tech integration followed the launch of Reid & Taylor’s brand website and its growing presence across various online marketplaces, a clear signal the company is gearing up to address the needs of today’s customer and give its competitors a run for their money.
Kapil Makhija, CEO and MD, Unicommerce, explains how this will enable Reid & Taylor to modernise its operations: “In addition to a consistent customer experience, this integration enables efficient inventory management through a centralised platform that allows ship-from-store service, where the brand can switch orders between warehouses and stores, offering a broader assortment for sale and faster order fulfilment. It also helps Reid and Taylor connect with the more online savvy audience.”
The Indian menswear market, encompassing formal, casual and traditional apparel, had crossed ₹2 trillion in 2023 and is expected to reach ₹4.3 trillion by 2027, as per a Statista report. Experts say that the menswear category has grown exponentially since Reid & Taylor’s first outing. It has a host of local and international brands such as Raymond, Mufti, Allen Solly, Louis Phillipe and Manyavar offering stiff competition.
In other words, Reid & Taylor has its task cut out.
Makeover strategy
The greatest challenge for the relaunched brand is to establish relevance and share-of-mind with a new set of consumers, observes Devangshu Dutta, CEO of Third Eyesight. “In its initial avatar in India, it rode on the brand’s past goodwill, but since its fall a few years ago, the market has changed significantly. Ready-to-wear apparel, growth of modern retail, online commerce and a set of consumers who have no past history or association with the brand are all significant factors at play, remarks Dutta.
At its best in the early-2000s, the brand was positioned mostly within the wedding segment, a category that is also rapidly changing. The styles that dominate wedding apparel are changing among younger cohorts, points out Ajimon Francis, MD India for Brand Finance. Formal three-piece suits and safari suits are no longer style statements.
Consumers are opting either for designer wear like a Tarun Tahiliani or for mid-segment offerings where brands like Raymond operate. “Formal suits are becoming an ‘uncle’ or ‘dadaji’ segment, and the wedding lines showcased by most brands are geared towards traditional wear. Formalwear for weddings now includes sherwanis and kurtas, where brands like Manyavar and FabIndia rule,” he points out.
Reflecting on the brand’s exit earlier from the Indian market, Francis says that its owners’ (S Kumars) inability to adapt the brand to changing consumer behaviour led to its downfall. The Finquest Group will need to clearly redefine its new positioning since Reid & Taylor now offers a mix of styles across casual and formal menswear.
Legacy brings credibility but it can also be baggage, remarks Rutu Mody Kamdar, founder of Jigsaw Brand Consultants. The challenge for Reid & Taylor lies in shaking off the heritage brand’ tag and making itself relevant to younger buyers who value modern style over nostalgia. “It needs to own the ‘quiet luxury’ space, timeless tailoring with a contemporary edge. That includes modern cuts, cultural collaborations, omnichannel presence, and aspirational storytelling,” suggests Kamdar.
E-commerce strategy will be key too. The brand will need to blend strong visuals with smart pricing and seamless strategy. Kamdar adds that Reid & Taylor needs to look at e-commerce as not just a sales channel but also a brand building platform.
(Published in Financial Express – Brandwagon)
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March 5, 2025
Nisha Qureshi, Afaqs
5 March 2025
Bournvita, a chocolate-flavoured malt drink produced by Cadbury under Mondelez, is a household name in India. Marketed as a health drink that supports children’s growth and development, it holds a 15-16% share in the Indian health food drink sector, second only to Horlicks, which dominates with nearly 50%.
Its advertising has traditionally centred on themes of health, confidence, and mental strength, with campaigns such as Tayyari Jeet Ki resonating strongly with consumers.
The Food Pharmer controversy
Despite its strong market presence, Bournvita has faced criticism over its high sugar content and other ingredients, sparking public debate and legal scrutiny. The controversy escalated last year when health influencer Revant Himatsingka, known as Food Pharmer, called out Bournvita for its excessive sugar levels.
Himatsingka’s video criticised Bournvita for its high sugar content and potentially harmful additives, such as caramel colouring agents. His claims triggered widespread consumer backlash and prompted Mondelez India to issue a legal notice, dismissing his allegations as “unscientific” and “distorted”.
However, the legal action only intensified public scrutiny. In response to mounting pressure, Bournvita reduced its added sugar content by 14.4%, from 37.4 grams to 32.2 grams per 100 grams of powder.
Can influencers salvage Bournvita’s reputation?
More than a year after the controversy, Bournvita has launched a large-scale influencer campaign to highlight its lower sugar content and nutritional benefits. The campaign features influencers visiting Bournvita factories to vouch for its authenticity and health benefits.
While the concept of factory tours is not new—brands such as Parle and Havmor use it as an extensive strategy to build consumer trust even in the absence of any controversy.
The concept has since been adapted by several brands. ID Fresh, known for its packaged idli and dosa batter, faced allegations of contamination with animal bones.
In response, it launched TransparenSee, a trust-building initiative that allowed consumers to take virtual tours of its production facility via live streaming, offering an unfiltered view of its operations.
However, marketing experts argue that Bournvita’s approach may not be enough to restore its credibility, as it relies heavily on influencer testimonials rather than direct consumer engagement. Crisis communication, they caution, must be handled with transparency and genuine action.
Bournvita’s strategy bears similarities to Shein’s controversial influencer-led factory tour campaign, which backfired. In June 2023, the fast-fashion retailer invited US influencers on a paid trip to its ‘Innovation Factory’ in Guangzhou, China, to counter allegations of labour exploitation.
Instead of improving Shein’s reputation, the trip sparked further backlash, with critics dismissing it as a PR stunt designed to manipulate public perception.
Mondelez defends the campaign
Speaking about the campaign, a Bournvita spokesperson says, “At Mondelez, our unwavering commitment to quality, transparency, and consumer trust defines everything we do. This campaign is a testament to our ongoing efforts to engage meaningfully with consumers.”
He further emphasises that Mondelez aims to go beyond influencer marketing by engaging directly with key stakeholders such as mothers and nutritionists, offering deeper insights into the product’s quality and nutritional benefits.
The need for authenticity over promotion
Krishnarao Buddha, a former senior category head of marketing at Parle Products, remains sceptical of Bournvita’s approach, arguing that credibility issues cannot be resolved through influencer endorsements alone.
“Instead of relying on paid influencers, brands should adopt a transparent and action-driven approach. In today’s digital age, where public scrutiny is at an all-time high, authenticity is the key to earning and retaining consumer trust,” he explains.
Devangshu Dutta, CEO, Third Eyesight, echoes similar concerns, stressing that once trust is broken, it takes time to rebuild.
“A single influencer campaign cannot erase past controversies. Brands need to engage in consistent and transparent communication about real improvements. Bournvita highlights its nutritional benefits, but consumers need more than promotional content—they need tangible proof of change, such as independent testing and direct consumer engagement,” he asserts.
Sandeep Goyal, chairperson and MD of Rediffusion, critiques Bournvita’s approach as an “MBA (Marketer’s Belly Ache) strategy” that prioritises corporate messaging over authenticity. “In today’s digital landscape, consumers are highly aware of paid promotions, making traditional marketing tactics less effective. Instead of attempting to control the narrative through influencers, brands should focus on rebuilding credibility through transparency and honest communication,” he advises.
Lessons from Cadbury’s past crisis management
This is not the first time Mondelez has had to navigate a brand crisis. In October 2003, just before Diwali, Cadbury Dairy Milk faced a major scandal when customers in Mumbai discovered worms in chocolates. The Maharashtra FDA seized stocks from its Pune plant, leading to widespread concern and a 30% drop in sales.
To regain trust, Cadbury launched Project Vishwas, an initiative to educate 190,000 retailers and reassure consumers. It invested Rs 15 crore in improved packaging without raising prices and enlisted Amitabh Bachchan as a brand ambassador. The campaign successfully restored consumer confidence.
Will Bournvita’s efforts be enough?
While Bournvita has taken steps to address consumer concerns, relying on influencer marketing alone may not be sufficient to rebuild its credibility. As past examples show, true reputation recovery requires more than just strategic campaigns—it demands tangible action, consistent transparency, and genuine consumer engagement.
(Published on Afaqs)
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January 9, 2025
Sagar Malviya, Economic Times
9 January 2025
Starbucks, Barista, Chaayos and Third Wave Coffee are among café chains facing the brunt of a slowdown in discretionary consumer spending. The impact is more severe for these retailers as they opened hundreds of new stores last fiscal year even as losses widened. To be sure, smaller chains such as Tim Hortons and Blue Tokai have bucked the trend.
Experts attribute the expansion rush to the urge among these retailers – both chains and standalone stores – to outpace competition. In certain instance, it led the same retailer to add stores in the same location, impacting its own growth instead of growing the pie.
At Rs 250 to Rs 350 for a cup of coffee, most chains target affluent, discerning coffee enthusiasts with artisanal brewing and experiential consumption, restricting the consumer base.
Devangshu Dutta, founder of retail consulting firm Third Eyesight, said the number of outlets have been expanding since 2022.
This was true for not just the new brands but also existing ones, Dutta said. “Cafe density in larger cities has gone up dramatically in the last couple of years.”
Growth rate fell to just 5% in FY24 from nearly 70% at Barista and Chaayos while Starbucks’ sales growth declined to 12% in FY24 from 70% in FY23. Third Wave saw sales growth slump to 67% from 355% during the period. Cafe Coffee Day posted a 9% increase in FY24, though sharply slowing from 59% a year ago.
Tim Hortons, however, more than doubled its sales last fiscal, its first full year of operations. Blue Tokai also bucked the slowdown trend with a 70% growth in FY24, compared to 73% in FY23.
Blue Tokai cofounder Matt Chitharanjan believes growth in India’s out-of-home coffee market is more than just a caffeine surge—reflecting the country’s shifting economic fabric. “Coffee consumption is strongly linked to income growth and India has reached a tipping point where it will support growth in the segment and should only accelerate going forward,” Chitharanjan told ET. “We have not seen any slowdown in coffee consumption and our positioning is also more product centric instead of just a cafe, which helped in double-digit same store sales growth.”
Tim Hortons, a Canadian coffee chain, which opened its first outlet in India in 2022, plans to have over 100 stores in the next three years. British coffee and sandwich chain Pret A Manger too launched its first shop in Mumbai as part of a franchise agreement with Reliance Brands. It plans to open up to 100 stores over the next five years. Third Wave and Blue Tokai are running more than 250 stores combined while Starbucks had over 330 stores as of March-end.
Tata Starbucks—the equal JV between Tata Consumer Products and US-based Starbucks Corp—said store footfalls have become a concern and the company has tweaked portfolio and pricing to attract traffic. Last year, the chain introduced classic hot and iced coffee starting at Rs 150 for a small cup, about 20-30% cheaper than regular coffee offered at Starbucks and other cafe chains.
“The stress is being seen across the quick service restaurant segment. It’s an overall consumer spending issue, especially in urban areas. And my hypothesis is probably food inflation is higher than what we think,” Sunil D’Souza, MD at Tata Consumer Products said during the December quarter earnings call.
Globally as well as in India, coffee growers have been hit with uncertain weather conditions while geopolitical factors are also affecting supply chains, which in turn, lifted prices to a record high. “The biggest challenge is erratic weather and climate change which has sent coffee prices to a 50-year high, but we will have to see how it impacts our pricing and profit after the current harvest,” said Chitharanjan at Blue Tokai.
(Published in Economic Times)
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December 31, 2024
Jasodhara Banerjee, Forbes India
31 December 2024
Once, there was alabaster. Then, there was porcelain. And now there is glass. And no, we are not talking about the different kinds material to make fine, delicate objet d’art, but the quality and texture of facial skin—smooth, flawless and luminescent—that humans aspire to.
While a Google search for the term ‘glass skin’ will churn out hundreds of results that describe not just what the term means—tracing it to Korean skin care routines and products—but also detail the meticulous steps, varying between five and 11, that will apparently make you look like your favourite K-pop singer or K-drama actor. Like all things K (read: Korean), be it television and OTT serials, or food and clothes, K-beauty seems to have taken the Indian market by storm. A search for ‘Korean brands’ on online platforms such as Nykaa and Tira Beauty brings up more than a thousand products, ranging from ₹75 for a facial sheet mask to ₹17,900 for 60 ml of face cream. Clearly, there is something for everybody.
Fuelling this surge has been a plethora of factors, including the rise of online marketplaces that have made Indian and foreign skin care and beauty products more accessible than before, the thriving ecosystem of influencers and content creators that has revolutionised the marketing of these products, and, of course, consumer demand for products that claim to have the goodness of natural ingredients backed by the surety of science. And, surprising as it may seem, the Covid-19 pandemic and accompanying lockdowns also seem to have played a role in this.
Case in point is Amorepacific Corporation, a Seoul-headquartered beauty and cosmetics company that operates in more than 50 countries, and has a portfolio of more than 30 brands, such as Sulwhasoo, Laneige, Mamonde, Etude House and Innisfree. It is one of the largest cosmetics companies, not just in South Korea, but in the world.
“We are the number one beauty and personal care brand in South Korea and were the first Korean corporation to enter India with direct management, with our own subsidiary,” says Paul Lee, managing director and country head, Amorepacific India. “We started our business in India with Innisfree, which uses natural ingredients from Jeju Island in South Korea. We started with Innisfree because India had a huge demand for brands with natural products. Then we introduced Laneige and Sulwhasoo, which fall in the luxury skin care segment, and these were followed by Etude, which is a makeup brand.”
Amorepacific entered India sometime in 2012, taking tentative steps in a fledgling market with minimal investments and a retail store in Delhi’s Khan market. “At that time, the awareness of K-beauty was very small, and our momentum of growth started with the popularity of dedicated ecommerce players like Nykaa. In the last seven years, our annual growth has been 50 percent, our current growth is 60 percent year-on-year,” says Lee.
A potent potion for growth
Although industry players and experts feel there are multiple factors behind this growth, the popularity of Korean cultural elements is a significant one. “Korean beauty and personal care brands have multiple enabling factors. The global expansion of Korean beauty and personal care products has been on the back of a cultural export wave like any other earlier in history; in this case through the growing popularity of K-pop and K-dramas,” says Devangshu Dutta, founder, Third Eyesight and co-founder, PVC Partners. “In India, these brands initially had an influence in the Northeastern states, where customers are usually ahead on the fashion curve and also find resonance with the look of these brands.” He adds that factors such as the increasing number of Indian tourists to East Asian countries, and the growing presence of Korean and Japanese expatriates within India have also supported the growing footprint of these brands.
A spokesperson for Tira Beauty, which was launched in April 2023, agrees with Dutta, and attributes the demand for K-beauty products to the exposure that consumers have to K-dramas and K-pop. However, she adds that a significant factor is rooted in the products themselves. “These are the innovations that these brands are bringing to the table,” she explains. “The kind of formulations they offer are very well-suited for the Indian consumer. The ingredients are very efficacy oriented, and deliver a lot of quality, thus resolving a lot of concerns that consumers in India have.”
For instance, skin hydration is a core need of consumers, and a lot of Korean skin care products focus on hyaluronic acid as an ingredient. “Consumers who have sensitive skin or inflammation as a key concern get to use ingredients like centella asiatica, that a lot of Korean products use,” she says.
The spokesperson adds that the texture of the products is also a factor behind their popularity in India: “A lot of Korean sunscreens are light weight, a lot of their essences are suited for the Indian skin and the Indian weather. Both these factors are contributing to the rise we are witnessing in the space of K-beauty.”
Lee of Amorepacific highlights the use of unique ingredients such as fermented beans, ginseng and green tea that were never used before by American or European companies. There are also many options for consumers to choose from, depending on what is best suited for them. For instance, there is a product line with green tea for consumers with sensitive skin, and the same products are available for those with dry skin. “There are three key metrics that we have seen among Indian consumers: One is the demand for premium quality, two is the demand for glass skin, and the third is reliability.”
Lee also attributes market factors that have been instrumental in making Korean products more accessible to Indian consumers. “There has been a lot of change before Covid, and after Covid. From the macro perspective, the number of internet users with access to low-cost data plans has increased. During the Covid-19 pandemic, the number of new people watching OTT platforms such as Netflix also surged. From the Netflix perspective, I think India is one of the top three countries, where the number of subscribers is concerned.”
According to the Korea Trade-Investment Promotion Agency, the beauty market in India saw substantial growth following the Covid-19 pandemic and is projected to expand by 10 percent annually from 2022 to 2027, more than twice the global average growth rate for the beauty sector. According to market analyst Mordor Intelligence, the K-beauty market in India is expected to grow annually by 9.4 percent from 2021 to 2026.
Lee highlights the popularity of Korean OTT series such as Squid Games in making Indians familiar with Korean culture, and YouTube videos making a lot of people aware of K-beauty. “When we started operating in India, there were hardly two or three brands operating here, but currently there are more than 60 Korean brands in India. The influence of TV and music content has made people familiar with Korean culture, which is similar to Indian culture in being family-centric,” he adds.
Content creator Scherezade Shroff Talwar says, “The Hallyu [Korean] wave during the pandemic has definitely contributed to, what I would say, an over-consumption of Korean culture and I definitely contribute to it as well. K-beauty products have been around in India for a while, but with the increasing popularity of K-dramas and K-pop, people are seeing more such content across multiple platforms. This has contributed to the rising number of Korean brands in India, and the use of their products.” She recalls how, in November, she was in South Korea with her K-drama club, and the members had lists of the products that they wanted to buy there because they are not available in India.
According to a September report by market research firm Mintel, social media analysis in India reveals that there have been 6.2 million posts in the last two years discussing K-drama, K-pop, and K-beauty trends, predominantly among the 19 to 24 age group. This continued popularity in K-pop throughout the APAC region influences consumers’ interest in Korean skin care and beauty products, the report adds.
Lee says that Korean beauty companies have also been prompt to react to the demands in the market. For instance, Innisfree introduces new products every three months, and they are based on consumer feedback through social media and actual stores. Given the demand from Indian consumers, Amorepacific has also formed a task force at its headquarters which is dedicated to reviewing and studying the Indian market, with plans bring in more brands and businesses.
Data shows, adds Lee, that the import of Korean skin care products into India is increasing by 63 percent every year, going up four times compared to 2020. Amorepacific’s own research shows that 53 percent of Indian beauty consumers have already tried Korean products. “Fifteen percent of the entire skin care products market is now dominated by Korean products,” he claims.
Although Amorepacific decided to close all 23 of its exclusive stores in India because of the losses suffered during the pandemic, it decided to partner instead with local channels such as Nykaa, Tira Beauty and SS Beauty, and its products are today available across 400 counters in 45 cities. “Although our company is seeing 60 percent growth every year now, our retail area is doubling every year,” says Lee. “Our aim is to be available in 500 counters within a year.”
The availability and accessibility of Korean skin care and beauty products have also coincided with the rise of marketing products through influencers and content creators. The spokesperson for Tira Beauty says that influencers have played a massive role in the popularity of Korean products. “One of the reasons why K-beauty products do well across markets is because Gen-Z consumers tend to follow a lot of these influencers,” she explains. For instance, Tira launched the Beauty of Joseon sunscreen, and it went out of stock very quickly. “We experienced this because there was a lot of awareness due to influencer activations, and there’s a certain amount of virality these products enjoy even before they are launched.” She also gives the example of the brand Tirtir, which was launched on Tira Beauty in India in November. “The brand rolled out samples to influencers in India in July, and that helped propel demand to a great extent.”
According to business consulting firm Grand View Research, celebrity influencers have been beneficial to marketers due to their global reach, which often transcends cultural boundaries. Hence, the top strategy used by Korean cosmetics brands is to sell their products to Korean celebrities. Storytelling using Korean celebrities as brand ambassadors, and streaming advertisements and video tutorials all over the social media platform are some of the major strategies adopted by K-beauty brands.
Grand View Research gives the example of the lip layering bar of Laniege, which has emerged as a convenient tool for those who want to get the trendy gradient lip look with just a single application. Celebrities such as actors Song Hye Kyo and Lee Sung Kyung have used the product, enhancing its appeal and desirability among consumers.
Celebrities from different parts of the world promote K-beauty products, and this fosters a cross-cultural appeal and encourages individuals from diverse backgrounds to explore and adopt these products in their skin care routines. Following this global trend, in India, young celebrities have been roped in to appeal to Gen-Z consumers. For instance, actor Palak Tiwari became the first Indian brand ambassador for Etude, while actor Wamiqa Gabbi became first Indian brand ambassador for Innisfree, and Sara Tendulkar, daughter of cricketing legend Sachin Tendulkar, is the brand ambassador for Laneige.
Dutta of Third Eyesight says, “Influencers certainly have played a role in building the buzz around K-beauty and have formed a relatively cost-effective means to spread the message in the past. However, in recent years with a growing number of social influencers, there is more clutter as well on the channels.”
India not in the big league, but demanding
Although the rise of K-beauty products in India has been significant, the country remains a far smaller market for these brands compared to markets such as the US, Europe and China. According to Grand View Research, the global K-beauty products market size was valued at $91.99 billion in 2022 and is expected to grow at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 9.3 percent from 2023 to 2030.
The consulting firm says the Korean cosmetics industry grew steadily during the Covid-19 pandemic, owing to an increase in awareness of the numerous benefits offered by the products. Moreover, due to a rise in popularity among consumers, major K-beauty companies are taking initiatives such as R&D, product launches, mergers and acquisitions to retain shares in the market and respond to changes in the marketplace by introducing a range of items.
Grand View Research valued the US market, one of the largest for K-beauty products, at $20.2 billion in 2021 and expects it to grow at a CAGR of 8.8 percent between 2023 and 2030. Compared to this, Statista valued the India K-beauty market at $486 million in 2021, and expects it to grow to over $1.3 billion by 2032.
Lee of Amorepacific says the US remains the largest beauty market as a whole, followed by China, Japan, the UK, France and India. “One of the differentiating factors between the US and Indian consumers is that the premium market in India is very small, and it is still a mass-product driven market,” he says. “Secondly, ecommerce in India is still quite small. In South Korea and the US, ecommerce just in the beauty segment, is 30 to 40 percent, while in India it is 13 percent. India is traditionally an offline market.”
He adds that despite the growth, Indians remain sceptical about whether Korean products are suitable for Indian skins, and there is demand for products that are made only for Indians. “Localisation, therefore, has become important for the company. Although we conduct clinical trials in different geographies, we are starting to take more feedback from Indian consumers, and we are ready to develop products only for the Indian market. For instance, we have introduced the Innisfree kajal and the Innisfree hair massage oil, and have developed lip colours for the Indian market.”
Although the company did not divulge revenue figures, it is expecting to grow six times in the next six years in India, and plans to introduce at least five more brands within the next seven years in this market.
(Published in Forbes India)
