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June 8, 2026
Arushi Jain, The Times of India
8 June 2026
Their faces have launched many campaigns and brought crores to the film industry. But can they sell a moisturiser as successfully? India’s beauty market is the hottest growth story globally, estimated to reach $40 billion from $23 billion (2026) and eyeing the fourth-largest spot by 2030 (currently at number seven).
Last month, Estée Lauder announced the buyout of Forest Essentials, one of India’s oldest, Ayurveda-based brands. In 2025, Hindustan Unilever acquired five-year-old skin and hair care brand, Minimalist. A 2025 McKinsey & Company x Business of Fashion survey found that 78% of global beauty executives see India as the most promising growth market. Even celebrities have shown up with chequebooks, but fans are no longer buying at face value.
While Hailey Bieber’s Rhode built a cult following through what she calls an “outside of the box” strategy, Deepika Padukone’s 82°E reported a 30% revenue dip in FY25. Nykaa is in talks to acquire a stake in the brand.
India’s consumer has evolved faster than the brands serving them. They are reading labels now, not just recognising famous faces on packaging. Star power, it turns out, only gets you so far.
Fame gets you in the door. Formulation keeps you there
If a celebrity is the invitation to the party, formulation is what keeps the guest at the after-party. Despite India’s celebrity beauty segment crossing an estimated `5,000 crore in GMV in FY24, scale has not translated into customer retention. The initial spike, familiar to anyone who has tracked a celebrity launch, gives way to an uncomfortable question: what brings a customer back?
“Celebrity isn’t necessarily a sustainable brand asset,” says Devangshu Dutta, CEO of retail consultancy Third Eyesight. “While celebrities can act as interest-creators and trial-generators, repeat purchases are built on functional reasons, not imagery alone.”
Founders echo the same reality from the ground. “Honestly, people come back for what works,” says Aashka Goradia Goble, co-founder of RENÉE Cosmetics. “If a product performs well, feels easy to use, is priced right, and becomes part of someone’s everyday routine, they’ll keep reaching for it.”
Price, too, remains a decisive filter. Sunny Leone, founder of StarStruck, says, “In India, price is the main component.” The journey from first purchase to loyalty is driven by habit, and habit, in beauty, is built on results.
Positioning over popularity
The gap between a viral campaign and a repeat purchase is wider than most A-listers realise. Brand guru Harish Bijoor locates the problem in what he calls the “spinal cord” of a brand: a single, clear positioning that holds the entire business together.
Rihanna’s Fenty is inseparable from its commitment to shade inclusivity. Kylie Jenner’s Kylie Cosmetics was built around one obsession: lips. “It is extremely important to understand what you want to be and focus on just one thing and not on everything,” Bijoor says. That clarity is precisely where most Indian celebrity beauty brands are still finding their footing.
The old playbook: launch a brand online, wrap it in the language of “clean” or “natural,” and wait for a global conglomerate to come calling has run its course. Today, strategic buyers and consumers alike want a brand that can stand on its own. The question is no longer whether a celebrity can generate awareness. It is whether the brand they have built can survive them.
What the labels that last have in common
The brands breaking through are doing so quietly and methodically. In a category where fame can spark interest but not always guarantee repeat purchase, Katrina Kaif’s Kay Beauty, launched with Nykaa in 2019, has emerged as one of celebrity beauty’s more consistent success stories.
The main reason is less about star power and more about strategy. “If you contrast Kay Beauty and 82°E (Deepika Padukone’s brand), Kay Beauty has two distinct advantages,” says Dutta. “Firstly, being priced for a much larger audience, and secondly, having the active participation of Nykaa across channels in terms of merchandising and visibility push for the brand.”
Nykaa is candid about what made the difference. “When we co-created Kay Beauty with Katrina, shade ranges and formulations designed for Indian skin tones and climate were severely limited,” a spokesperson shares, adding that the celebrity association “amplified the brand rather than substituted for it.” The strategy appears to have paid off: Kay Beauty is now a ₹500 crore-plus annualised GMV brand, with new launches contributing 21% of revenue as of Q3 FY26.
Why Indian skin demands more than a famous name
For Indian celebrity brands, the challenge is not just performance; it is perception. “Domestically, we see the mentality for buyers is to look at international brands first based on trust, and then try domestic brands based on lower price value,” says Leone.
Indian consumers are also highly specific in what they expect. According to market research firm Mintel, shoppers are increasingly drawn to formulations that are clinically tested and grounded in both science and local familiarity. Products must perform in Mumbai’s humidity and Delhi’s pollution and suit the full spectrum of Indian skin tones.
“Indian consumers love products that do more than one job, last long in our weather, and actually match Indian skin tones,” says Goradia. They are cautious spenders, she adds, but willing to invest when they see real quality and innovation.
Nykaa says this ingredient awareness is now visible across the country, not just metros. “Consumers are reading about niacinamide and retinol, they know what they want from a sunscreen, and are making considered purchase decisions. Brands need to earn their place on merit in every market,” says the spokesperson.
“A brand that addresses these needs well and remains within the customer’s budget succeeds,” says Dutta.
Gen Z will drive 50% of India’s beauty consumption by 2030
By 2030, Gen Z will drive 50% of India’s beauty and personal care consumption, a third of all sales will happen online, and per capita income is forecast to rise 138% in real terms by 2040, according to Euromonitor. Nykaa founder and CEO Falguni Nayar told Bloomberg that comparing India’s beauty routines to South Korea’s famed 14-step regimens is premature, “It is still day zero for beauty consumption in India.”
The global conglomerates have done the math. Estée Lauder, L’Oréal, and Puig are all moving deeper into India, betting on a consumer who is younger, more digitally fluent, and more ingredient-literate than any previous generation. The brands they are acquiring, Forest Essentials, Minimalist, Kama Ayurveda, share a common thread: They are built on something that exists independently of a famous face. “This is an industry that is very crowded and takes a lot of time to grow,” says Leone. “Western brands focus on global distribution and profit and loss. Not just turnover at a loss.” The celebrities who will build something lasting are the ones who understand that the launch is the easiest part. As Bijoor puts it: “Celebrity beauty is not skin deep at all. It is a deep brand science.”
(Published in The Times of India)
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May 25, 2026
Vaeshnavi Kasthuril, MINT
Bengaluru, 25 May 2026
Value fashion retailers across the country are likely to face margin pressure in the upcoming quarters as rising crude oil prices are driving up the cost of polyester and other fabrics. Executives at V-Mart Retail Ltd, Vishal Mega Mart Ltd, and Kewal Kiran Clothing Ltd (KKCL) said crude oil-linked inflation has begun to push up yarn and sourcing costs across apparel and general merchandise categories, with the full impact expected to play out over the next few months.
Value fashion retailers face a double whammy: their heavy reliance on polyester and synthetic blends exposes them to crude-linked inflation, while their price-sensitive customer base leaves little room to pass on rising costs without hurting demand.
Apparel contributes about 22.8% of the overall revenue of the country’s largest retailer, DMart, in FY26. Rising polyester and fabric prices could also weigh on this share, which has been declining since FY20.
“We see almost 60% to 70% consumption of polyester yarn or poly-based product lines, which have or will get impacted,” said Lalit Agarwal during the company’s March-quarter earnings call. Agarwal said that yarn prices had already risen sharply in recent weeks. “There is a rise of almost 10% to 15% in the yarn prices, which effectively converts to almost 5% to 7% in the apparel prices,” he said.
“Cost increases are at multiple points. One, of course, is raw material, which is not only fabric, but also polyester buttons, thread, packaging, all of that,” Devangshu Dutta, founder of Third Eyesight, a consulting firm, said. “Because with value, you cannot really pass on the price hikes so readily to the consumer.”
Dutta said that lower- and middle-income consumers were already under financial stress from broader inflationary pressures, “so, they will not be able to absorb price hikes as easily as well.”
Ebitda margins in Q4FY26 are 10.9% for V-Mart Retail, 13.6% for Vishal Mega Mart and 19.1% for Kewal Kiran Clothing.
Double whammy for value segment
Gunender Kapur, CEO of Vishal Mega Mart, during the company’s March-quarter earnings call, said the inflationary impact had started becoming visible towards the end of April and would likely intensify in the coming months.
Despite rising input costs, retailers said they are avoiding broad-based price hikes on entry-level products amid fragile demand conditions in the value segment.
Entry-level products for these retailers range from ₹199 to ₹399, with some going up to ₹1,500.
“We would never tinker with the opening price points and the lower price points in these difficult times, because those are the customers who are the most vulnerable in inflationary situations,” Kapur said.
Hemant Jain, CEO of KKCL, said the company was willing to absorb part of the pressure on profitability to protect revenues and market share.
Jain also said the company had not yet implemented price hikes despite the inflationary environment.
To cushion the impact, companies said they are increasingly relying on cost optimisation, fabric innovation, premium fashion products and deeper expansion into smaller towns to sustain growth.
V-Mart said it was attempting to offset part of the inflation through alternative fabric usage, sourcing efficiencies and tighter inventory planning.
The retailer has also blocked orders in advance and is utilising existing yarn and fabric inventories available with vendors to soften the immediate impact of rising prices.
Vishal Mega Mart’s Kapur said it has revived cost-saving measures from the post-Ukraine cotton inflation cycle, including replacing cartons with gunny bags, removing polybags from some apparel categories, and shipping footwear without outer cartons.
The retailer has also increased the use of computer-aided design systems to reduce fabric waste during cutting.
Premium products, private labels offer buffer
These value retailers are also increasingly depending on premium and higher-fashion assortments, where consumers are relatively less price sensitive, to absorb selective price increases while keeping entry-level products affordable.
Kapur said Vishal Mega Mart’s large private-label portfolio, which contributes over 74% of its revenue, gives it greater flexibility to manage pricing pressure while maintaining discounts against national brands.
KKCL on the other hand, said it would absorb part of the inflationary impact rather than immediately pass on higher costs to consumers.
These retailers are also increasingly leaning on expansion into smaller towns and deeper markets to drive incremental growth as discretionary spending in larger urban centres remains uneven.
Value fashion retailers have underperformed the broader market amid growing concerns over rising input costs and margin pressure. Shares of V-Mart Retail, V2 Retail Ltd, Vishal Mega Mart and Kewal Kiran Clothing have fallen between 4% and 11% on a year-to-date basis, while the benchmark BSE rose 6.1% during the same period.
(Published in MINT)
admin
May 15, 2026
The ET Now Swadesh panel discussion focussed on the dual challenge facing the Indian economy: a weakening rupee and rising crude oil prices, which together are driving “imported inflation” and straining household budgets. Devangshu Dutta (Founder, Third Eyesight) put forth the following key points during the discussion (the video link is under the text summary below):
1. Dual Impact on Industry and Consumers:
2. Vulnerability of Small Businesses (SMEs):
3. Income vs. Expenditure Strain:
4. Ripple Effect of Crude Oil Beyond Logistics:
5. Shifts in Consumer Spending Patterns & “Shrinkflation”:
The panel noted that while the Reserve Bank of India (RBI) has adequate foreign exchange reserves to defend the rupee temporarily, the definitive solution relies heavily on the cooling down of global geopolitical tensions (such as the Middle East conflict affecting the Strait of Hormuz). Until then, Indian consumers will need careful financial planning and smart spending adjustments to navigate this inflationary phase. [Video below.]
admin
May 6, 2026
Vaeshnavi Kasthuril, MINT
Mumbai, 6 May 2026
Fashion retailers are speeding up deliveries to keep pace with instant-gratification shopping driven by quick-fashion startups, with established players and newer brands taking sharply different approaches.
For example, brands such as Biba and The House of Rare have adopted a more calibrated, infrastructure-led strategy rather than a rapid overhaul of existing store networks. “We’ve been doing this in a very soft way but not necessarily from the same stores because that affects the customer experience,” said Siddharth Bindra, managing director of Biba. Bindra said using retail stores as fulfilment hubs for rapid delivery creates operational constraints, particularly given store sizes and layouts. “We don’t have very large stores; they are anywhere between 1,000 and 2,000 square feet. So that’s not the right efficiency,” he said.
Instead, the brand is evaluating a hub-based model in cities with higher store density, enabling faster deliveries without disrupting stone operations. “If we do, it will be though proper hubs in cities where we have four to five stores, where we would start with quick commerce and accelerate it,” he said. This could enable same-day or two to three-hour deliveries.
The House of Rare, which houses Rare Rabbit (men’s urban fashion) and Rareism (women’s fashion), is adopting a similar approach, evaluating city-levee fulfilment hubs in markets with higher store concentrations to enable faster deliveries while keeping retail outlets focused on walk-in consumers.
The strategy reflects a broader attempt among legacy retallers to belance speed with experience, rather than treating stores as Interchangeable logistics nodes. “The eventual goal is the customer, but it creates a lot of difference in the customer experience” Bindra said, pointing to the trade-offs involved.
Different take
In contrast, some brands are moving more aggressively to integrate stones directly into fulfilment networks.
Libas, an initial public offering (IPO)-bound apparel company, is networking its operating model to plug its physical retail network Into a faster, hyperlocal delivery system.
Earlier, the 12-year-old company followed a more traditional structure. Online orders were largely fulfilled from central warehouses and delivered over a few days, while stores primarily served walk-in customers, with the two channels operating independently.
That is now changing. Libas is using its stores and nearby warehouses as local fulfilment points, allowing it to service orders within a much smaller delivery radius,
“At Libas, the time frame will be approximately 60-90 minutes at the max,” said Bhavay Pruthi, senior vice president, e-commerce and product management.
The rollout has been gradual, starting with select cities and limited catchments, typically within a 7-10km radius, where delivery timelines can be tightly controlled. It has also narrowed the product mix initialy to itams that are easier to move quickly.
The push comes as consumer expectations around delivery timelines extend beyond groceries into fashion, forcing brands to rethink supply-chain design,
Rise of quick fashion
The urgency to adapt is being shaped by a surge in quick fashion startups that are attracting investor attention despite heavy cash burm.
The segment has seen a flurry of funding in recent months, with Zilo raising $15.3 million in February led by Peak XV, and Knot securing $5 million in a round led by 12 Flags in December.
It has also evolved rapidly. Quick-commerce platforms such as Zepto, Instamart and Blinkit initially offered a limited range of basic fashion items for last-minute purchases. This has since expanded into a more specialized category, with vertical players offering wider assortments across party, work and occasion wear with rapid delivery timelines.
New entrants are pushing the model further. Wydo, for instance, promises deliveries within 15 to 30 minutes in Bengaluru, while Gen Z-focused offerings such as Newme’s Zip and Snitch Quick are building businesses around near-instant fashion access.
Myntra’s rapid commerce division, M-Now, accounted for about 10% of orders in the locations where it was available as of last November.
“This is the new kind of experience that customers are expecting,” Pruthi said.
Libas is working with third-party logistics providers and quick commerce platforms for the last-mile delivery, while focusing internally on faster picking, packing and order routing. Quick commerce currently accounts for about 2% of its overall sales, with scope to grow as the model scales..
Early results, however, highlight the trade-offs. “We saw very good sell-throughs for e-commerce, but it was cannibalizing existing store sales,” Pruths said.
There are also fimits to what customers are willing to buy through rapid-delivery channels. “Customers do not have the confidence to spend 15,000 for a fashion product from a quick- commerce channel,” he said.
To address this, Libas has tightened delivery radii, curated a more suitable product mix, and is testing stores with attached dark-store infrastructure to balance walk-in and online demand.
Experts say these challenges are structural.
“If you look at fashion, it’s extremely unpredictable, and if you are a brand across multiple products, it’s complicated process,” said Devangshu Dutta, founder of management consulting firm Third Eyesight.
While demand for faster deliveries is rising, it remains a small slice of the overall market, with profitability still uncertain due to limited assortments and high fulfilment costs. For traditional retailers, adopting the model requires a fundamental reworking of supply chains that were not built for near-instant delivery, Dutta added.
(Published in MINT)
admin
February 14, 2026
This episode of theUpStreamlife is a freewheeling conversation between Vishal Krishna and Devangshu Dutta, founder of Third Eyesight, with insights into the growth of modern retail and consumption in India, brand building and M&A, the balance of power between brands and retailers/platforms, sustainability vs growth and many other aspects, and is well-suited for founders and teams who want to be building for the long run in India.
