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October 29, 2026
Pritha Pahari, The Core
29 Oct 2026
When ITC Ltd. launched Aashirvaad in May 2002, it sold one thing — whole wheat flour. The brand now has more than 200 SKUs across staples, spices, fresh foods and frozen foods.
ITC wants to double what Indians spend on Aashirvaad to Rs 20,000 crore in five years. It said growth will come from two places: more premium atta, and new categories around the Indian kitchen. That makes the brand a test of a hard question in packaged food. Can a name built on the purity of an ingredient win in the other segments and break out from its identity built around atta?
Trust in the purity of flour may not translate into trust in ready-to-eat meals, where taste, consistency and repeat purchases matter more. ITC itself has bought brands and built separate ones for some of these jobs.
A Big Target, A Soft Core
Hemant Malik, who runs ITC’s foods division, told PTI the company expects spending on Aashirvaad to double from above Rs 10,000 crore. That figure is what shoppers pay, including taxes and trade margins. It is not ITC’s revenue. The push comes as the core product slows. In the quarter ended June 30, ITC said atta was held back by heat waves, an LPG shortage and low wheat prices.
FMCG-Others revenue rose 12%, or 16% without staples, and dairy, snacks, noodles and frozen snacks each grew more than 20%. Not all of that belongs to Aashirvaad. Snacks, noodles and frozen foods sell under Bingo!, YiPPee! and ITC Master Chef.
The wider backdrop matters too. ITC is trying to rely less on cigarettes, which now face a sharp rise in tax.
Devangshu Dutta, founder of consultancy Third Eyesight, said value-added ready-to-cook and ready-to-eat products earn better gross margins than staples. Selling more of them would also help ITC use its factories more fully, he said.
ITC’s recent annual report shows multigrain atta, vermicelli and besan have grown threefold over five years, and now make up about 16% of the staples portfolio. ITC does not give a brand-level split between premium atta and new categories, or Aashirvaad’s profit.
ITC’s own Q1 FY27 release said atta performance was tempered by transient factors including heat waves, an LPG shortage and benign wheat prices. The FMCG-Others business grew 12% in the quarter.
The Easy Stretch
ITC said its value-added atta variants and staples-related products have grown three-fold in five years, and their share of the portfolio has doubled. They include besan, rava, vermicelli and soya chunks. The newest addition is chana sattu, first sold in Bihar, Jharkhand and West Bengal, with a Rs 10 pack that carries 10 grams of protein.
Suumit Kapoor, a brand growth consultant, calls these safe stretches. Besan and rava barely change what a shopper expects, he said. They are “still about what’s in the bag,” so purity still answers the question.
The Harder Jump
Ready-to-cook and ready-to-eat food asks something different. “Purity is a raw material promise. Ready to eat is a finished experience,” Kapoor said. Nobody buys a packaged curry because the dal was well sourced, he said. They buy it because they are hungry, short of time and hoping it tastes home-cooked.
ITC’s recent launches show it knows this. Its ready-to-cook chapati comes in packs of 10, with no preservatives and a shelf life of five to six days. The chutney and sambar range, launched in June, is made in small batches without preservatives and depends on a cold supply chain.
At launch it was sold only in Bengaluru through quick-commerce apps. The short shelf life answers a real problem.
Dutta said many shoppers prefer freshly cooked, hot meals and are wary of additives that extend shelf life. Cold chains remain patchy even in big cities, he said. A time-pressed household can also cook, order in, eat out or buy a packaged meal, and each choice is judged on price, convenience and taste.
Kapoor added a caution about ITC’s own numbers. They do not show whether shoppers buy the new products because of the Aashirvaad name, or simply because those categories are growing.
ITC’s latest results release names ready-to-cook chapati in a list of products but gives no sales figure for it, or for ready-to-eat meals. That may reflect how ITC groups its figures, not a change in plans.
Why One Name Still Makes Sense
Dutta sees a strong business case for using one name. A familiar brand cuts the cost of getting shoppers to try something new, he said, because Aashirvaad is already in millions of homes. New items can also move through ITC’s existing distribution, including modern trade and quick commerce, and retailers accept extensions from a leading brand more readily than unknown labels.
He also sees a defensive motive. Aashirvaad sits in everyday kitchen use, between ITC’s older gourmet line, Kitchens of India, and its snack-led Sunfeast. A bigger range puts it up against MTR, Haldiram’s and iD Fresh.
Tata Consumer said Tata Sampann grew 69% in Q4 FY26 with strong performance across categories. On the Q1 FY27 earnings call, CEO Sunil D’Souza said the core portfolio of pulses, spices, poha and vermicelli was growing at about 30%, with cold-pressed oils and dry fruits adding to that growth.
Poha and vermicelli are the closest items to convenience foods, but Tata doesn’t separate them out.
AWL Agri Business, which owns Fortune and Kohinoor, reported Q1 FY27 Food & FMCG revenue of Rs 1,726 crore, up 22%, with a segment EBITDA margin of 6%, and management said the Fortune and Kohinoor brands both grew at double-digit rates. AWL’s investor day deck also shows Kohinoor rising from Rs 150 crore in FY23 to over Rs 400 crore in FY26.
Not Betting Only On The Name
ITC’s record suggests it does not rely on one brand for everything.
It launched Kitchens of India in 2001 as a separate premium name, using the dishes of its hotel restaurants. It bought the spices brand Sunrise in 2020. In February 2025, it agreed to buy Prasuma, a frozen and ready-to-cook company, starting with a 43.8% stake. Sproutlife Foods, the Yogabar business, became a subsidiary on April 1.
Mint reported in February 2025, citing two unnamed people, that ITC was in early talks to buy MTR Foods and Eastern Condiments from Norway’s Orkla for about $1.4 billion. Orkla said it does not comment on rumours. ITC did not reply to Mint. No deal followed.
Kapoor reads such moves as ITC buying skills it lacks, not as proof that Aashirvaad cannot stretch.
ITC is also putting weight behind fresh food. Its fresh food business, which includes a brand called ITC Aashirvaad Soul Creations, grew gross order value 90% in the quarter, passed an annual revenue run rate of Rs 300 crore and now runs 75 cloud kitchens in five cities.
What Comes Next
The company’s position is strongest where the brand started. In July, ITC said it had already secured 95% of the wheat of the quality needed for Aashirvaad atta, but it also warned that monsoon rains were short and El Niño could hurt growth.
Value-added atta variants and staples adjacencies have grown three-fold over five years, and Aashirvaad Svasti dairy is among its fastest-growing categories, but neither is a meal category.
The newest meal-type launches, such as ready-to-cook chapatis, frozen naans and parathas, and fresh chutneys and sambar, have no disclosed sales or repeat-purchase data.
ITC launched Aashirvaad ReadyMeals back in 2003 and still describes ready-to-cook as a new bet, and it markets other finished-food lines under separate brands (Kitchens of India, ITC Master Chef, Prasuma), which suggests it doesn’t simply assume the Aashirvaad name carries into every meal category.
Management frames success around product innovation and differentiation, not brand trust alone. The larger test is on the shelf.
Kapoor said staples-linked products can keep drawing on Aashirvaad’s purity, but anything close to a finished meal has to earn a name for taste and consistency. Whether shoppers will pay for that under the Aashirvaad label is what ITC’s Rs 20,000 crore target depends on.
(Published in The Core)
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September 1, 2026
Pritha Pahari, The Core
1 September 2026
Reliance has spent more than a decade bringing together a long list of names such as Burberry and Tiffany & Co. to India. Its latest focus seems to be luxury celebrity brands, adding global pop star Rihanna’s Fenty Beauty and now media personality Kim Kardashian’s shapewear label SKIMS to its luxury brands portfolio.
Isha Ambani, executive director of Reliance Retail, has fronted most of these announcements herself.
Meanwhile, Nykaa, the beauty platform Reliance Retail keeps getting compared to, spent the last year going after some of the same celebrity founders.
In August 2025, Fenty Beauty moved from Nykaa’s platform to an exclusive deal with Reliance’s Sephora India and Tira. In June 2026, Nykaa answered by signing pop star Selena Gomez’s Rare Beauty. A month later, Reliance landed SKIMS.
India’s luxury and celebrity-brand market is split between Reliance’s scale and Nykaa’s beauty expertise, with Fenty, Rare Beauty and SKIMS showing how ownership, reach and brand fit are shaping who gets the biggest names.
Big Brands, Different Bets
Reliance wins brands through scale (20,169 stores, 396 million customers) and ownership ties; Fenty’s move to Sephora India is less a market choice than an internal LVMH routing decision, given LVMH’s stakes in both Fenty and Sephora.
But Nykaa is holding its own by competing on specialism, not size; its beauty-literate audience and curated community pulled in Rare Beauty and Chanel.
The brand fit, not just distribution muscle, still decides who signs where, and some brands (like Birkenstock) skip both platforms entirely.
The economics behind these deals are harder to pin down than the headlines suggest. None of the three — Fenty, Rare Beauty, or SKIMS — have disclosed minimum guarantees, royalty rates, or sales targets for their India entries; these are announced as partnerships, not filed joint ventures.
SKIMS raised $225 million in November 2025 at a $5 billion valuation, nearing $1 billion in annual net sales.
Fenty tells a different story: $450 million in 2024 sales, now valued at $1-2 billion, down sharply from a $2.8 billion estimate in 2021, with Jay-Z’s MarcyPen Capital Partners in talks to buy LVMH’s stake.
Rare Beauty’s India entry rides on Nykaa’s own momentum; the company’s revenue from operations rose 29% year on year (YoY) to Rs 2,782 crore in Q1 FY27, up from Rs 2,154.9 crore a year earlier. In the last quarter of FY26, revenue stood at Rs 2,648.1 crore.
The Core has reached out to Reliance and Nykaa for their response, and will update this report if and when they respond.
Why Fenty Chose Reliance
Fenty’s move looks more like an internal one, according to Suumit Kapoor, a brand growth consultant.
LVMH owns 50% of Fenty Beauty through its beauty incubator Kendo Brands, a stake it has held since co-founding the brand with Rihanna in 2017. LVMH also owns Sephora globally, and Sephora in India is run by Reliance.
“When Fenty enters a new market through Sephora, LVMH is effectively distributing its own equity stake through its own global retail infrastructure,” Kapoor said. For a brand with that kind of ownership overlap, he added, the choice of partner is “close to an internal routing decision” and not a genuine trade-off.
That ownership overlap is itself now in a pickle.
LVMH has been exploring a sale of its 50% Fenty stake since October 2025, working with investment bank Evercore, according to Reuters. As of June 2026, American rapper and businessman, Jay-Z’s investment firm MarcyPen Capital Partners was reported to be among the parties in talks to buy it.
No sale has closed yet, so the Reliance-Sephora-LVMH alignment still holds for now, but it isn’t guaranteed to outlast the current ownership structure.
Fenty’s India journey backs this up. The brand’s first India listing wasn’t through Reliance at all.
It ran on Nykaa’s Cross Border Store, a low-commitment digital shelf that was discontinued before Fenty’s August 2025 relaunch, an exclusive omnichannel deal with Reliance spanning more than 50 stores across 16 cities on day one.
Kapoor doesn’t think of the switch as a deliberate strategic upgrade.
“The Cross Border Store listing may simply have underperformed on its own terms, without much marketing support behind it,” he said, adding that there is no clear evidence that Reliance stole the brand away.
Devangshu Dutta, founder of the research firm Third Eyesight, said celebrity backing only buys a brand little room.
“When a company or an investor buys into an early-stage celebrity brand, they are acquiring instant brand equity which acts as a top-of-the-funnel magnet and potentially lower CAC,” he said. “However, the ‘fame premium’ runs out if product and service execution isn’t compelling enough to drive repeat business and customer retention.”
Ownership decides the biggest deals before “competition” even enters the picture, Fenty landed at Reliance’s Sephora because LVMH owns half of each, though that alignment is shakier than it looks, with Jay-Z’s MarcyPen Capital Partners now the leading bidder for LVMH’s Fenty stake.
Beyond ownership, it’s a straight trade-off.
For brands chasing scale, Reliance’s tens of thousands of stores will get you reach. If brands want to chase community, Rare Beauty did by picking Nykaa specifically to tap its affluent, digitally engaged beauty shoppers and build loyalty. Some brands skip the fight altogether, like Birkenstock, which walked into India solo.
The Distribution Gap
Where Reliance doesn’t need an ownership story to make its case is scale. Reliance Retail closed the quarter ended June 2026 with 20,169 stores across 78.4 million square feet, 396 million registered customers, and 568 million transactions in that single quarter, up 46% year on year, according to the company’s Q1 FY27 earnings release. JioMart alone served 5,500 pincodes through its rapid delivery network in the same period.
Nykaa, by comparison, operated 324 physical stores across 105 cities as of its FY26 numbers, with a cumulative customer base of around 42 million, per its own disclosures and Business Standard’s reporting on the company’s results.
“That gap generally buys a brand not just bigger numbers, but reaches into places where a beauty specialist has no reason to be,” Kapoor said. For brands thinking beyond beauty into wellness, gifting, or lifestyle crossovers, he said that scale “is not a nice-to-have. It is the entire argument for choosing Reliance over a beauty-only platform.”
Satish Meena, founder of Datum Intelligence, a research firm, made a similar point on Reliance’s pull with brands weighing an India entry.
“With the kind of strength they have, they can always give a better deal,” he said, referring to Reliance’s ability to commit capital and guarantee scale that a newer entrant typically cannot promise on its own. He pointed to Reliance’s existing retail relationships, including Marks & Spencer, as part of the track record that makes brands comfortable signing with the group.
Experts say over the past two to three years, Nykaa has been the more prolific launch platform for major international beauty brands, while Reliance has had greater strength in international luxury and fashion.
According to experts, Nykaa reported more than 70 luxury-brand additions over the last three years, including names such as NARS, Prada Beauty, La Prairie, Chanel Beauty, Armani Beauty and Maison Margiela. Reliance, meanwhile, has built a luxury portfolio spanning Valentino, Balenciaga, Bottega Veneta, Tiffany & Co., Burberry and others, and most recently brought SKIMS to India. Reliance’s public disclosures do not provide a comparable 2–3-year count of new international brand entries.
Reliance is arguably a major gateway for international luxury/fashion, but calling it the default gateway for international brands overall is too broad.
Where Nykaa Still Wins
Reliance’s advantage on raw numbers doesn’t fully explain why Nykaa keeps landing brands too.
Nykaa built its beauty audience before it built its stores, using tutorials and curated storytelling to create what Kapoor called “a beauty-literate customer base that arrives already primed to trust the platform’s recommendations.”
That specialism is what pulled in Rare Beauty. Nykaa’s June 2026 launch made the brand available through its website, app, and 30 stores nationwide, and came from a company reporting its highest quarterly profit since listing at the time, per its own disclosures.
In a company statement announcing the launch, Anchit Nayar, Nykaa Beauty’s executive director and CEO, said the brand fit a “new generation of highly informed and globally engaged consumers seeking elevated brand experiences.” Rare Beauty’s chief executive, Scott Friedman, said in the same announcement that India was “a very important market” for the brand, citing Nykaa’s beauty community in the country as the reason to partner with it specifically.
Nykaa has run a similar playbook before. Chanel strengthened its India fragrance and beauty presence on Nykaa in 2025, Obagi Medical entered India through the platform specifically for its clinically driven skincare positioning, and Estee Lauder’s incubation arm has run its India beauty programme, Beauty and You, with Nykaa as lead partner every year since 2022.
Dutta pointed to Kay Beauty, Nykaa’s own celebrity line with actor Katrina Kaif, as an example of why platform fit matters as much as platform size. Contrasting it with 82°E, actor Deepika Padukone’s skincare brand on Tira, he said Kay Beauty had two advantages: it was priced for a much larger audience, and it had “Nykaa’s active participation across channels for merchandising and visibility.”
Not The Only Door
Reliance’s pull is real, but it isn’t the only route into India.
Reliance benefits from international-brand partnerships through retail economics, distribution and, in some cases, ownership or joint-venture economics. The potential conflict emerges because Reliance can simultaneously act as a brand’s market-entry partner and control substantial retail and digital routes to consumers. Public filings, however, do not establish that Reliance uses this position to disadvantage partner brands or competing retailers.
Meena pointed to Birkenstock, which entered by opening its own stores rather than partnering with either platform. Birkenstock and similar labels operate as single-brand retail; they can use India’s foreign direct investment rules to set up shop directly, bypassing the need for a local partner altogether.
“If the brands think that they have enough pull in the market and they can bring customers, they are opening these stores without any partnership,” Meena said. He added that most global brands take the partner route anyway because India, for many of them, is still a small share of global sales, and testing the market with an established partner for a few years is lower risk than building from scratch.
Kapoor flagged one risk worth watching no matter which partner a brand picks. Exclusive deals give a retailer more control. But Tira has also started building its own private-label products, including a colour cosmetics line, and sells them in the same stores as the global brands it distributes.
“A retailer can be a brand’s distribution partner and, on an adjacent shelf, its competitor, at the same time,” he said, a tension he noted that Nykaa’s marketplace model, without a comparable private label push against premium brands, does not carry in the same way.
For brands already tied to Reliance through ownership, like Fenty, there isn’t much of a decision to make. For everyone else, Nykaa signing Rare Beauty and Reliance signing SKIMS within weeks of each other shows this fight for celebrity founders in India is far from over.
(Published in The Core)
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September 1, 2026
Vikash Tripathi, Outlook Business
1 September 2026
Eight decades ago, the ‘nationalist businessman’ GD Birla helped prepare the ‘Bombay Plan’, which asked the state to pro-vide for the bare minimum needs of its people. His plan asked for 2,800 calories of well-balanced food per day, 30 yards of clothing per year and 100sq ft of housing per person.
Today, seventh-generation Aryaman Vikram Birla is betting on an entirely different opportunity: premium dining. “We continue to believe in the remarkable potential of the premium casual dining space, spurred by rising disposable income and evolving lifestyles,” the 29-year-old said after Aditya Birla New Age Hospitality acquired KA Hospitality in 2023.
The Birlas are not alone in trying to cash-in on rising prosperity in India. In the past five years alone, India’s top 10 industrial groups have announced new ventures in consumer-facing sectors or doubled down on existing ones. A rough tally of these investments crosses ₹4.8 lakh crore.
For decades, these same business houses built their dominance in core sectors like steel, power, aluminium, cement and chemicals, laying the industrial backbone of the economy. This helped the nation become a large producer of such goods and, in some cases, an exporter as well.
But as India’s economic conditions changed, so has the focus of its largest conglomerates.
For the likes of Tata, Aditya Birla, Bajaj and Bharti, that journey started way back. “What has changed in recent years is the speed and openness of the amount of capital being invested,” says Jitender Kumar, associate professor and programme chairperson, retail management programme at Birla Institute of Management Technology.
“It is not ‘opportunistic’ reasons, it’s structural reasons.”
Two factors seem to be driving the shift: the first is the arrival of an affluent consuming class that can buy branded and premium goods, and the second is the attraction of consumer businesses as a way to diversify revenue and, in some cases, improve the quality of earnings.
The Rise of Affluence
A couple of decades ago, if an Indian household had some extra cash, it often meant buying more of the same. Today, it increasingly means buying better. Even salt is being upgraded, from iodised to Himalayan pink or rock salt. The same shift is visible in bigger purchases: sports utility vehicles (SUVs) over hatchbacks, and ₹1cr-plus homes over budget flats.
But India isn’t simply consuming more. It is moving from basic consumption towards discretionary, branded and premium consumption. This boom is most clearly seen in the rapid expansion of the financial infrastructure that enables consumption. Formal retail credit penetration has more than doubled over the past decade, according to a TransUnion Cibil report, driven largely by personal loans, credit cards and consumer durable loans. Meanwhile, the government-backed Unified Payments Interface has untethered spending from the cash in a buyer’s wallet.
The signs show up across the broader consumption economy. Homes priced above ₹1cr accounted for 54% of total sales in 2025, up from just 30% in 2023—the market that decorative paints and home solutions are chasing.
Out of 4.7mn cars sold in the financial year 2025–26, SUVs accounted for more than half.
“The consumer market has grown substantially—not only through rising incomes but also the dramatic expansion of branded consumption across product verticals,” says Devangshu Dutta, founder of management-consulting firm Third Eyesight.
The bets are also getting more varied, from Reliance Retail tying up with global brands like Fenty and Skims to the Bharti Group bringing Olive Garden to India.
The Lure of Returns
For a passenger walking through an airport, the flight is only one part of the journey. There is coffee before boarding, food between flights, a lounge, retail outlets, parking and a host of other things to spend money on. For Adani Airports, those non-aero businesses are increasingly becoming the more lucrative part.
Its non-aero operations already generate about ₹2,500cr, with returns in the high-20% range, against roughly 12% from regulated aeronautical operations.
Jeet Adani, director of Adani Airport Holdings, expects the share of aeronautical revenue to fall to around 10% of total revenue, with non-aero becoming the bigger growth driver. The motivation can be seen as an escape from a return ceiling as much as a bet on rising affluence.
As Kumar puts it, consumer businesses help the conglomerates in two major ways. First, they help insulate them from volatile and often punishing commodity cycles, and second, they often offer far better returns with lower capital intensity and faster cash conversion.
Reliance Industries (RIL) shows how significant that shift can become. By 2025–26, its consumer-facing arms, Jio Platforms, Reliance Retail Ventures and Reliance Consumer Products, together contributed over 40% of group revenue and nearly 60% of operating profit.
And there is another advantage. “A small business, when it wants to build a new venture, faces constant margin pressure and often has to build its supply chain from scratch. A large conglomerate can leverage its existing scale, infrastructure and supply chain to enter a new business far more efficiently,” explains Kranthi Bathini, equity strategist at WealthMills Securities.
Different Strokes
In chasing consumers, some conglomerates are following the fastest-growing categories, while others are using their existing industrial capabilities to enter consumer-facing businesses. One is trying to build an entire ecosystem around it. But the lines between these approaches are not always clean.
Tatas is doing both: building entirely new consumer brands while also using the industrial ecosystem it has built over decades.
For Tatas, the consumer opportunity has largely been about following where spending is moving. Their consumer ventures have followed this arc longest. It began decades ago with Lakmé (1952), Tata Tea (1962) and Titan (1984). Tanishq and the expansion of Trent under brands such as Zudio are only the latest examples.
At Tata Consumer Products, once largely a staples business built around salt, tea and pulses, the focus has been shifting towards value-added foods and beverages, with ₹7,000cr spent on the acquisitions of Capital Foods and Organic India in 2024. Across companies such as Tata Digital, Indian Hotels, Air India and Tata Motors Passenger Vehicles, the group has announced close to ₹93,180cr in investment over the past five years.
Aditya Birla’s jewellery chain Indriya and its move into premium hospitality belong to the same category of ‘pull-based’ diversification.
JSW is taking a different route. It is taking its existing industrial strengths one step closer to the buyer. The group, which has traditionally been focused on areas such as steel, energy and cement, has expanded into consumer-facing areas such as auto, paints and home solutions.
It launched JSW Paints in 2019, and acquired a controlling stake in paintmaker AkzoNobel India for ₹8,986cr last year. Its strategy is to leverage an established network of contractors, dealers, architects and builders to reach consumers.
The same strategy can be seen in its push into autos, acquiring a 35% stake in the Indian unit of China’s MG Motor in 2024, leveraging synergies with its established steel business.
At Tatas, too, group companies like Tata Steel, Tata Power, Tata AutoComp, Tata Technologies and TCS are doing significant businesses with Tata Motors.
Adani is also using an asset it already controls to move further into the consumer’s wallet. Adani Airports announced a ₹20,000cr investment in June to develop hotels, retail, entertainment and commercial infrastructure around its eight airports, and has signed hotel management agreements with IHG Hotels & Resorts for five hotels. City-side developments could contribute 30–40% of Adani Airport Holdings’ non-aero revenue.
Yet another example of the extension strategy is Aditya Birla Group’s attempt to diversify from cement, metals and textiles into decorative paints with Birla Opus.
RIL took a different approach: trying to connect multiple consumer businesses into one ecosystem. It expanded its retail network through new formats and acquisitions, added brands and partnerships, and then built a consumer-goods business around acquisitions such as Campa Cola and Lotus Chocolate.
That expansion was helped by billions of dollars raised by both Jio Infocomm and Retail Ventures from foreign investors in 2020. The group now plans to spend another ₹8,000cr expanding consumer goods manufacturing. The advantage of having that kind of scale is clear. If RIL has Ajio at a mall and, next to it, GAP and Herschel, it can negotiate better rental terms.
For conglomerates, Kumar points out, the next level of competition will not be based on investment, “but on the ability to create different consumer experiences, foster innovation and create lasting brand loyalty through the integration of these capabilities”.
Can Scale Win?
When Reliance Fresh opened its first stores in 2006, it was part of a rush by some of India’s biggest business groups to crack organised retail. Aditya Birla Group, RP-Sanjiv Goenka Group’s Spencer’s and Kishore Biyani’s Future Group were all betting that organised retail could transform the way Indians shopped. What followed was years of experimentation, losses and, for some, eventual retreat.
Birlas essentially gave up on grocery retail after a decade of heavy losses and exited entirely.
Future was pushed into insolvency after a controversial ₹24,713cr deal with RIL. Spencer’s is still trying to find its footing, with ₹249.33cr in net losses in 2025–26.
Conglomerates may have deeper pockets, but that does not automatically make them better at selling to consumers. India has seen some of those bets fail or take years to work. And even among today’s biggest players, the results are still mixed.
Tata Sons has been in this segment longer than the Ambanis, yet its consumer businesses still make up less than 40% of its total revenue —a share that has not changed since 2020.
These groups have what most standalone consumer companies don’t: capital, distribution, infrastructure, brands, scale.
But winning consumers takes something else entirely—reading what people want, building brands, innovating fast and earning loyalty.
“In B2B [business to business], it’s about manufacturing at scale, getting your costs down. Then you can compete. In B2C [business to consumer], it’s all about the product. With the right product at the right price, you have a chance to win in the market,” Parth Jindal, managing director of JSW Cement and JSW Paints, told Outlook Business in 2025.
Tata Sons’ chairman N Chandrasekaran hit the same wall while revamping the group’s consumer unit. “I have the money. But I don’t have the team to run it,” he had told Sunil D’Souza while hiring him to lead Tata Consumer Products in 2020.
Reliance and Tatas have had the longest head start, but even their journeys show how difficult it is to turn scale and capital into consumer businesses. Birla, JSW and Adani are now trying to make that transition in their own ways.
A longer tail—Bajaj in hospitals, L&T in retail finance and education, Mahindra in insurance and hospitality, Murugappa in electric mobility—is playing it safer, going deeper into what it already owns rather than chasing new categories.
What ties them together is a bet on consumers buying not just more but better, and on those consumers being worth more per rupee of capital than the industrial customers who built these houses.
The prize is growing, but so is the competition. Capital and scale may get these conglomerates through the door. They won’t guarantee a seat at the table.
(Published in Outlook Business)
admin
June 30, 2026
Vaeshnavi Kasthuril, MINT
30 June 2026, Mumbai
Advent International-backed Modenik Lifestyle Pvt. Ltd is doubling down on its portfolio of legacy innerwear brands, planning to scale each label into a sizeable business rather than rely on a single flagship brand.
“Each of the brands must grow big enough to be called a company of its own,” Shekhar Tewari, chief executive and executive director, told Mint.
The company has four brands: premium women’s innerwear label Enamor, value brand Slimz, mass-premium men’s label Dixcy Scott, and premium men’s innerwear brand Levi’s. “These brands are very strong in their respective segments. They complement each other rather than compete,” Tewari said.
Levi’s Innerwear is priced between ₹250 and ₹550, Dixcy Scott and Slimz between ₹100 and ₹350, while Enamor’s products start at ₹500 and go beyond ₹2,500.
The strategy comes as India’s innerwear market, particularly women’s lingerie, has become one of the country’s most fiercely contested apparel categories, with established retailers and digital-first brands vying for market share.
Modenik’s focus on innerwear deepened after private equity firm Advent brought Enamor and Dixcy together under Modenik Lifestyle, following its acquisition of Enamor from Gokaldas Exports in 2019.
Both brands had expanded into adjacent categories such as athleisure, loungewear, sleepwear and outerwear, but struggled to keep pace with rising competition from fashion retailers and digital-first brands. The company has since exited much of its outerwear portfolio, taking a revenue hit.
“We took a conscious hit on the top line because we wanted to become a focused innerwear company,” Tewari said. “If you’re trying to be everything to everyone, you end up not being known for anything. We wanted consumers to think of us first when they think of innerwear.”
Revenue has remained largely flat at around ₹1,200 crore over the past three years, though losses have narrowed sharply. FY25 revenue stood at ₹1,224 crore, while net loss halved to ₹24.8 crore from ₹50.8 crore a year earlier.
Modenik aims to outpace the industry’s single-digit growth by increasing branded penetration in women’s innerwear, expanding its premium portfolio and adding exclusive store network, expected to cross 100 outlets in the near term.
The company sees significant headroom in women’s innerwear, where it estimates the market at more than ₹20,000 crore, but organised brands account for only ₹3,000-4,000 crore. It expects formalization, premiumization and product innovation to accelerate brand adoption.
According to Devangshu Dutta, chief executive of retail consultancy Third Eyesight, the market’s increasing fragmentation makes a multi-brand strategy more effective.
“You can’t have one brand stretching across multiple segments. The product has to be different, pricing strategies are different, the messaging and the distribution channel mix also varies depending on the consumer segment you’re trying to target,” he said.
According to industry estimates, India’s innerwear market is valued at over ₹90,000 crore (about $10.9 billion) and is expected to grow at a 6-7% compound annual growth rate (CAGR) over the next decade.
Advantages and avenues
Tewari believes Modenik has structural advantages over many digital-first rivals. Unlike online-first brands that typically outsource manufacturing, the company controls product development and manufacturing while leveraging decades-old relationships with distributors, department stores, exclusive brand outlets and multi-brand retailers.
“Those capabilities have been built over decades. They cannot be replicated overnight,” he said.
The company is also expanding across channels. Enamor is available through 6,000-7,000 multi-brand outlets, nearly 80 exclusive stores, department stores, including Shoppers Stop, Lifestyle, Central and Pantaloons, besides online marketplaces and quick commerce platforms. E-commerce contributes over 30% of Enamor’s revenue.
Although digital commerce is growing rapidly, Tewari believes physical retail will continue to play a critical role in the category.
“Innerwear is a category that requires understanding of fit, size and functionality. Consumers still want to touch, feel and try products before making the switch from unbranded to branded,” he said.
Rather than pursuing acquisitions, the company plans to unlock growth from its existing portfolio.
The strategy comes as competition in India’s innerwear market is intensifying. Page Industries dominates through Jockey, while Reliance Retail, which houses brands such as Clovia, Marks & Spencer and Hunkemöller, acquired digital-first lingerie platform Zivame, and added premium lingerie brand amanté. Aditya Birla Fashion and Retail has expanded Van Heusen Innerwear, while Trent has strengthened its innerwear offering through its private label brands at Westside and Zudio. New-age brands such as Shyaway, Bummer and Nykd by Nykaa have also stepped up investments in their products.
(Published in MINT)
admin
June 22, 2026
Sharleen D’souza & Shivani Shinde, Business Standard
Mumbai, 21 June 2026
Online beauty marketplaces Reliance Retail Ventures’ Tira and Nykaa have a common mantra: growing in-house brands. Successful brand acquisitions and margin growth seem to fuel the push.
“With private labels, margins are better. It also helps both companies plug the gap in the market which other brands are not present in,” Devangshu Dutta, chief executive officer (CEO) of Third Eyesight, told Business Standard. Within in-house brands, products need some investment in research and development (R&D), he explained.
Harish Bijoor, brand and business strategy consultant at Harish Bijoor Consults, said that margins are better for platforms with in-house brands.“Typically most companies are getting insular. The idea is to own brands and own the profits from those brands. When you are a marketplace, you put in effort for other brands, this strategy helps marketplaces lock in on profits instead of losing out to other brands, which sell on the platform,” he said.
At the 49th annual general meeting of Reliance Industries (RIL) on Friday, Isha Ambani, executive director of Reliance Retail Ventures Ltd, and non-executive director of RIL, had laid out plans for Tira. “We will scale our own brands to consumers across India and beyond, ensuring Indian beauty prod-
ucts stand proudly alongside the world’s leading global giants.”
Its in-house brands include Puraveda, Pahadi Local, haircare brand Anomaly, which was recently acquired from actress Priyanka Chopra Jonas, and skincare and make-up brand Akind, which it co-created with Mira Rajput Kapoor. Its portfolio also includes Nails Our Way and Dream Immerse Play.
Ambani’s statement had come a day after Nykaa’s management had also hinted at expanding its in-house brands on its investor day on Thursday. The platform, operated by FSN E-Commerce Ventures, outlined an ambitious road map to become an over $5 billion beauty and lifestyle business.
The growth of Nykaa’s “House of Brands” is expected to be significant. The management aims to be the largest house of brands business in India by financial year 2030 (FY30). Management has guided toward a net sale value (NSV) compounded annual growth rate (CAGR) of 30 per cent over FY26-30, taking the NSV from Rs. 1,700 crore in FY26 to Rs. 5,000 crore by FY30.
The “House of Nykaa” GMV grew over 65 per cent in FY26, with an improvement in profitability. In a report on the company’s focus on in-house brands business, Motilal Oswal said, “House of Brands is expected to grow faster than the core marketplace business and become a meaningfully larger contributor to group revenues and profits by FY30. We believe profit contribution is expected to increase disproportionately, given the higher gross margins, stronger pricing control, and lower dependence on third-party brands.”
Nykaa’s platform creates a structural incubation advantage, it said. “Fashion today serves about 300,000 styles across categories, while customer discovery increasingly happens through content, personalisation, and creator-led commerce. This allows the company to identify emerging brands and categories early, before allocating capital behind them,” the report added.
As of the fourth quarter of financial year (FY26), “House of Nykaa” had 12 brands across Beauty and Fashion categories at various growth stages, and two successful acquisitions of Dot & Key and Earth Rhythm. Dot & Key has grown 13 times over the last three years, while Kay Beauty has grown three times over this period, said the company. During the Q4FY26 results, the company had said that the strong performance of “House of Nykaa” had impacted margins positively. P Ganesh, chief financial officer, FSN E-Commerce while explaining the margin growth said, “…with gross margin improving by 132 basis points
in FY26, led by strong performance of House of Nykaa and improved service income across businesses.”
For FY26, “House of Nykaa” delivered a strong Rs. 3,176 crore of GMV. “That’s an about 50 per cent year-on-year increase. Served more than 17 million consumers and expanded distribution beyond online as well to 150,000 GT doors. As a reminder, this unit includes brands across beauty and fashion, seven brands in Beauty and in Fashion five brands, with an increased focus on one in particular, which is Nykd,” said Adwaita Nayar, executive director, cofounder and chief executive officer, “House of Nykaa Brands”, during the fourth quarter results.
(Published in Business Standard)
