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August 6, 2025
Naini Thaker, Forbes India
Aug 06, 2025
It’s a known fact that of the thousands of startups founded each year, only a small fraction survive—and even fewer scale to become unicorns. Rarer still are those unicorns which, after reaching dizzying heights, come crashing down. The Good Glamm Group is one such cautionary tale.
Once celebrated as a unicorn that cracked the code on content-to-commerce, the company’s meteoric rise was matched only by the speed of its unravelling. At the heart of its downfall lies a critical misstep: The relentless pursuit of growth through acquisitions and brand launches, even as cracks in its house-of-brands model began to show. Instead of pausing to consolidate and build sustainably, Good Glamm doubled down—prioritising valuation over viability.
That strategy came to a head on July 23 when founder and CEO Darpan Sanghvi announced the dissolution of the group’s house-of-brands structure. In a LinkedIn post, Sanghvi confirmed that lenders would now oversee the sale of individual brands, effectively ending the company’s vision of building a digital-first FMCG conglomerate.
Despite raising $30 million in 2024 and undergoing multiple rounds of restructuring, the group failed to integrate its acquisitions or generate sustainable profitability. With key investors such as Accel and Bessemer Venture Partners exiting the board and leadership turnover accelerating, the company’s ambitious empire—built on rapid expansion and aggressive brand aggregation—has now been reduced to a lender-led breakup.
In the aftermath of the announcement, Sanghvi offered a candid reflection on what went wrong. “In hindsight, it wasn’t one decision, one market force, or one acquisition. It was three levers we pulled, which together, turned Momentum into a Trap,” he wrote in a LinkedIn post. According to Sanghvi, the group’s downfall stemmed from doing “too much, too fast and too big”.
He elaborated: “At first, Momentum feels like your greatest ally. Every headline, every funding round, every big launch is a shot of adrenaline. And you start believing you can do more and more and more. But momentum has a dark side. If you stop steering and go in a hundred different directions, it doesn’t just carry you forward, it drags you faster and faster until you can’t breathe.”
Where The Model Broke?
In October 2017, Sanghvi launched direct-to-consumer (DTC) beauty brand MyGlamm. Most brands at the time were big on selling on marketplaces such as Amazon or Nykaa. However, Sanghvi believed, “We wanted to be truly DTC and not just digitally enabled. We believed that to own the customer, the transaction needs to happen on our own platform.”
But the biggest challenge with being a DTC brand is its customer acquisition cost (CAC). Towards the end of 2019, the company was spending about $15 (over ₹1,000) to acquire a customer to transact on their website. “Around the same time, our revenue run rate was ₹100 crore. We were spending about $0.5 million to acquire 30,000 customers a month. That’s when we realised it was time to solve the CAC problem,” Sanghvi told Forbes India in 2022. In an attempt to find a solution, Sanghvi turned to the content-to-commerce model.
And then, started the acquisition spree. According to Sanghvi, with a single brand in a single category one can’t build scale. He told Forbes India, “The most you can scale it is ₹1,000 crore, if you want a company that’s doing ₹8,000 or ₹10,000 crore in revenue, it has to be multiple brands across multiple categories.” In hindsight, this perspective might be debatable.
As Devangshu Dutta, founder of consultancy Third Eyesight, points out, the “house of brands” model is essentially a modern-day consumer-facing business conglomerate—and its success hinges on multiple factors working in harmony. While there are examples globally and in India of such models thriving, both privately and publicly, the reality is far more nuanced. “Brands take time to grow, and organisations take time to mature,” Dutta notes, emphasising that rapid aggregation of founder-led businesses under a single ownership umbrella is no guarantee of success.
In recent years, Dutta feels the influx of capital into early-stage startups and copycat models—often seen as lower risk due to their success in other geographies—has shortened business lifecycles and inflated expectations. The hope is that synergies across the portfolio will unlock outsized value, but that rarely plays out as planned. “It is well-documented that more than 70 percent of mergers and acquisitions fail,” he adds, citing reasons such as weak brand fundamentals, lack of synergy, inadequate capital, limited management bandwidth, and internal misalignment.
In the case of Good Glamm, these fault lines became increasingly visible as the group expanded faster than it could integrate or stabilise.
Scaling Without Steering
In FY21, the company had losses of ₹43.63 crore, which rose to ₹362.5 crore in FY22 and went up to ₹917 crore in FY23. Despite the mounting losses, Good Glamm marked its entry into the US market, in a joint venture with tennis player Serena Williams to launch a new brand—Wyn Beauty by Serena Williams. The launch was in partnership with US-based beauty retailer Ulta Beauty.
For its international expansion, it invested close to ₹250 crore over three years. “We anticipate that the international business will account for 25 to 35 percent of our total group revenues by the end of next year. This strategic focus on international expansion is pivotal as we prepare for our IPO in October 2025,” he told Forbes India in April 2024.
Clearly, things didn’t pan out as expected. As Sanghvi rightly points out, it was indeed a momentum trap. “You tell yourself you’ll fix the leaks after the next milestone. But the milestones keep coming, and so do the leaks. Soon, you’re running from fire to fire, never realising that the whole building is getting hotter. And somewhere along the way, you lose the stillness to think,” he writes on his LinkedIn post.
Dutta feels that a strong balance sheet is the most fundamental requirement, “to provide growth-funding for the acquisitions or for allowing the time needed for the acquisitions to mature into self-sustaining businesses over years. In the case of VC-funded businesses, the pressure to scale in a short time can go against what may be best for the business or for its individual brands”.
The Good Glamm Group’s fall is a reminder that scale alone doesn’t build resilience. Its story reflects the risks of expanding faster than a business can integrate, and of prioritising valuation over value. The house-of-brands model can work—but only when backed by strategic clarity, operational discipline, and patience. This is less a warning and more a reminder for founders: Scale is not success, and speed is not strategy.
(Published in Forbes India)
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July 28, 2025
By Meenakshi Verma Ambwani, Hindu Businessline
New Delhi, July 28, 2025
Nykaa said that Kay Beauty, co-founded with actor Katrina Kaif, has crossed the ₹240 crore mark in terms of Gross Merchandise Value.
Stars from the tinsel town are donning the entrepreneurial hat to venture into the beauty and fashion business space. Some have even succeeded in growing their brands sustainably, earning big bucks.
Take for instance Skincare brand Hyphen, co-founded by actor Kriti Sanon with Pep Brands, which recently touched the ₹400 crore-mark in Annual Recurring Revenues.
Tarun Sharma, CEO and co-founder, Hyphen told businessline: “The brand is witnessing healthy growth rate quarter-on-quarter. In the first year itself, it touched ₹100 crore ARR. We had aimed for ₹500 crore ARR in 3-4 years and, within two years, we are at ₹400crore ARR.” Pep Brands led by Sharma owns mCaffeine and Hyphen.
The model that works
Sharma believes an operator-led, celebrity anchored model works better. ”The operator can bring in the necessary financial and execution muscle. If a celeb partners with an operator that has deep expertise in the space, then there is huge potential for growth,” he added.
“Product launches, marketing and distribution are very data-driven at Pep Brands. It guides us on what to launch, when to launch, and how to launch products. That has helped Hyphen in achieving this kind of growth rate. It is by design that the majority of the business of Hyphen is D2C,” Sharma explained.
In May, Nykaa said that Kay Beauty, co-founded with actor Katrina Kaif, has crossed the ₹240 crore mark in terms of Gross Merchandise Value. On an earnings call for Q4FY25, Adwaita Nayar, Executive Director, Chief Executive Officer, Nykaa Fashion, said: “Kay Beauty is one of the fastest-growing brands on the platform. It’s hit about ₹240 crore of GMV. The innovations have been fantastic this year. So, it is quite a premium brand, and I think the consumers are accepting it even at that price point. It’s got great gross margins.”
Earlier this year, Reliance Retail Ventures announced that it has decided to acquire 51 per cent stake in Ed-a-Mamma , a kid and maternity wear brand founded by actor Alia Bhatt. According to some reports, Hrithik Roshan’s sportswear brand HRX is a ₹1,000 crore brand.
Among the recent entrants are Ranbir Kapoor, who has decided to foray in the apparel and accessories space with ARKS. Launched in February, the brand has also launched its first store in Mumbai, followed by a second store in New Delhi and another with Broadway in Hyderabad.
‘Shift in preferences’
Abhinav Verma, co-founder and CEO, ARKS, told businessline: “We are seeing a shift in consumer preferences towards made-in-India brands. We decided to leverage on the strong manufacturing capability that India has to build a brand that is both aspirational and offers value. We are looking to build a ₹100 crore brand in the next 3-4 years with a strong omni-channel strategy.”
“The success of some of these brands demonstrates that building on consumer relevance and with powerful time-bound execution, celebrity ventures can become significant players in a crowded market. With consumer demand for relatability and digital-first branding on the rise, this segment will definitely grow. However, only brands that offer genuine value to consumers, and not just star appeal, are likely to endure,” said Devangshu Dutta, CEO, Third Eyesight.
(Published in The Hindu-Businessline)
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May 7, 2025
Shalinee Mishra, Exchange4Media
May 7, 2025
Bollywood’s biggest stars, Katrina Kaif and Deepika Padukone, have reputed beauty businesses to their names — Kay Beauty and 82°East, respectively.
Kay Beauty, launched in late 2019 in partnership with Nykaa, has crossed the ₹200 crore revenue mark in 2024. In contrast, 82°E, launched by Deepika in November 2022, has managed around ₹25 crore, according to industry estimates.
Both actors have massive social media pull, strong brand equity, and sizable fan followings. They are matched in popularity, but the same cannot be said about their respective brands. One clearly has an edge over the other. In this case, it is Kay Beauty.
What went wrong with 82°E?
A core difference between the two brands is pricing.
Kay Beauty’s average product is priced affordably at around ₹299, making it accessible to a large portion of Indian beauty consumers. It hits the sweet spot of mass affordability and aspirational branding.
Katrina seems to have built the line keeping in mind India’s price-sensitive but beauty-conscious audience, especially women who look for functional, everyday products without shelling out a fortune.
On the other hand, 82°E positions itself as a luxury skincare brand, with products starting at ₹2,500 and going up to nearly ₹4,000. While targeting the premium market is a valid strategy, it demands either a very clear value proposition or a unique, standout offering that sets it apart from both domestic and global competitors.
According to multiple marketing and retail experts, 82°E currently lacks such a defining “hero” product. In contrast, top-tier global brands like Estée Lauder (Advanced Night Repair) and L’Occitane (Immortelle Divine Cream) have built their entire portfolio identity around one or two iconic products.
Devangshu Dutta, CEO of retail consultancy Third Eyesight, cautions against overestimating the power of celebrity equity alone. “Celebrity involvement, even with an equity stake, doesn’t automatically ensure brand success,” he says. “What matters is how well the product and brand resonate with the end consumer. Many factors—category selection, pricing, accessibility, and retail strategy—determine scalability.”
He adds, “A high-priced D2C brand with limited-use products will always scale slower than a more affordably priced, high-rotation brand with widespread retail availability.”
Missing the emotional connect
Another crucial area where 82°E falters is brand recall without Deepika. Experts argue that if Deepika’s face were to be removed from the branding, very little would remain to emotionally anchor consumers.
While celebrity-founded brands enjoy the initial boost of recognition, long-term consumer connection demands storytelling, product efficacy, and relevance.
For a product priced between ₹2700–₹3900, the experience and results need to justify the cost. But user feedback suggests the perceived benefits don’t dramatically exceed what one might get from a ₹999 serum in the market.
Katrina’s Kay Beauty, in contrast, positioned itself as a homegrown solution for Indian skin types, with products that worked well for deeper skin tones and humidity-prone weather.
The brand tapped into inclusivity and practicality—two emotional hooks that resonate deeply with Indian consumers. Additionally, it responded to functional needs by launching waterproof and sweat-resistant products, which especially make sense during monsoons.
On Instagram, Katrina actively promotes her products, collaborates with influencers, and shares content that resonates with her target audience. In contrast, Deepika’s brand presence on social media lacks the same level of relatability and consistent engagement, suggesting a need for a more tailored and active digital strategy.
Link: https://www.instagram.com/reel/DI_wjSRoZTM/? utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
https://www.instagram.com/reel/DIWHG1DSR5f/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
Retail footprint and distribution strategy
Skincare, particularly in the premium category, remains an experiential purchase. Consumers often want to try and test products before committing, especially at a higher price point. 82°E launched as a D2C-only brand, relying heavily on its website and social media advertising for discovery and sales with no store opening.
The strategy meant substantial upfront investment in paid media and influencer partnerships to generate traction, but lacked the physical visibility or tactile experience needed to convert high-end skincare buyers.
In contrast, Kay Beauty quickly became visible across Nykaa’s extensive online and offline retail network, giving shoppers a chance to explore products across price tiers in-store and online. The Nykaa tie-up served not only as a strong distribution engine but also as a brand endorsement in itself, given the platform’s dominant position in Indian beauty retail.
As Kushal Sanghvi, a media and marketing strategist, puts it, “Kay Beauty got its pricing, packaging, promotion, and place—basically the key P’s of marketing—spot on. Deepika’s brand, though elegant, is caught in a niche premium wellness space with limited scale.”
Kay Beauty was developed with a clear understanding of what works in India: colour cosmetics tailored for Indian skin tones and seasonal weather. The brand focused on frequently-used products like lipsticks, kajal, and foundation sticks that had both a functional and emotional appeal, allowing it to drive repeat purchases.
In contrast, 82°E focused on skincare rooted in self-care and holistic wellness, a space that is already crowded with local and international competitors, and where product effectiveness needs to be proven over time. Moreover, Indian consumers still tend to see skincare as utilitarian, rather than indulgent, which makes higher pricing even more of a challenge.
Short-Term Results vs. Long-Term Vision
It’s important to contextualise these figures within brand age. Luxury brands, globally, have often taken decades to establish loyalty. From Estée Lauder to Chanel, brand equity is built slowly through repeated use, reliable results, and consistent positioning.
But time alone won’t change the equation unless the core approach is recalibrated. If Deepika’s brand intends to build a long-lasting business, it will need to think beyond elite appeal and D2C strategy. Offline presence, a wider retail network, and possibly a reimagining of its product portfolio to include lower price points or trial-sized options could open the door to a broader consumer base.
India’s beauty and wellness market is growing at over 15% year-on-year, and opportunities abound at both the premium and affordable ends of the spectrum. But clarity of positioning and accessibility remain critical to long-term success.
(Published in Exchange4Media)
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August 30, 2024
In a startup world, founders are typically creators first while investors see themselves as the monitors. Therefore, conflicts between the two are almost a default feature of a relationship that in effect funds a dream. From ‘off’ chemistry to differences of opinion to what some founders see as shackles on entrepreneurial freedom, the reasons could be any or a mix of all. Watch this discussion, with a mega-panel of intense start-up founders on the one hand and investors with VC funds on the other, addressing the pain points on Cash, Control, Creativity, Chemistry and Culture in a supercharged encounter. Session Anchor, Devangshu Dutta (Founder, Third Eyesight) reflected, “Those who have heard classical music jugalbandi or witnessed jazz musicians jamming will appreciate the creative tension, the give and take that was the thread throughout this discussion, reflecting the reality of the relationship between entrepreneurs and VCs.”
Watch the video
INVESTORS:
Ankita Balotia, VP, Fireside Ventures
Aashish Vanigota, Principal – Investments, IvyCap Ventures Advisors Private Limited
Bhawna Bhatnagar, Co-founder, We Founder Circle
Nitya Agarwal, VP-Investments, 3one4 Capital
Harmanpreet Singh, Founder & Managing Partner, Prath Ventures
Vamshi Reddy, Partner, Kalaari Capital
Zoeb Ali Khan, Vice President, Sauce.vc
D2C FOUNDERS:
Abdus Samad, Founder, Sam & Marshall Eyewear
Akshay Mahendru, Co-Founder & CEO, The Pet Point & Nootie
Malvika Jain, Founder, SEREKO
Nitin Jain, Founder, Indigifts
Puneet Tyagi, Egoss Shoes
Radhika Dang, CEO & Founder, The Good Karma Company
Rahul Aggarwal, Coffeeza
Udit Toshniwal, Founder & Director, The Pant Project
Vaani Chugh, Co-founder & Director, D’chica
Yash Kotak, Co-founder, Bombay Hemp Co.
Yashesh Mukhi, Co-founder, Chupps
admin
July 20, 2024
Gargi Sarkar, Inc42
20 July 2024
The Indian government’s ban on Chinese apps and products in 2020 saw two massive casualties. Everyone knows about TikTok, but fast fashion brand Shein was equally as big in India four years ago.
But the India setback did not halt Shein’s global momentum, just as it did not stop TikTok from becoming what it is today. Shein became the world’s largest online-only fashion company in 2022.
Valued at a staggering $10 Bn, the brand accounted for nearly one-fifth of the global fast-fashion market in 2022, outpacing giants such as Zara and H&M. To put things in context, Shein was founded in 2008, whereas Zara was incorporated in 1975 and H&M in 1947.
In India, Shein set the market on fire. Launched in India in 2018, the brand was already a major player by 2020, dominating online searches and influencer-led content. But the ban in 2020 meant all that came to a halt.
The Indian government’s ban stemmed from fears of Shein’s Chinese parent company storing or transferring data of Indian customers to China. While the ban itself came under a tense geopolitical climate, one could say that Shein’s exit left a gap in India’s fashion market which D2C brands quickly filled.
Brands such as Urbanic, Twenty Dresses, Cilory, attempted to fill the void but couldn’t quite match Shein’s popularity. Indeed, VCs also backed fast fashion and casual wear startups such as The Souled Store, Virgio, NewMe and others which looked to replicate the Shein formula.
Ecommerce unicorn Meesho has also looked to fill the gap with affordable fashion and a similar content-led sales strategy that worked wonders for Shein.
While many of these brands have grown in scale over the past four years, none of them — at least so far — have quite replicated the magic of Shein and how quickly it disrupted the market.
And that’s arguably why Shein’s re-entry into India through a partnership with Reliance Retail is a big deal.
Shein joins the Mukesh Ambani-led conglomerate’s exclusive portfolio of over 50 brands, including Silk Feet, Jivers, Xlerate, Feet Up, Dhuni by Avaasa, Riva, John Player Select, Kidlyboo, and Altair. Besides this, Reliance Retail has similar deals with designer labels such as Kenzo, Y3, Marc Jacobs, Coach, Steve Madden, Kate Spade, among others.
It’s clear why Shein has looked to re-enter India, where the fast fashion industry is projected to reach a size of $30 Bn by FY23, as per a Redseer report. The overall fashion segment grew at a modest 6% YoY in FY24, whereas the fast fashion subsegment surged by up to 40% in the same period. Now, Shein is back to grab a large chunk of the market once again, though there’s definitely a lot different about this Shein.
Reliance Punches Shein’s Ticket To India
The first thing that we need to note is that Shein is not back as a standalone entity, but its products will be available on Reliance Retail’s apps and physical stores. Shein is not operating business in India — Reliance is said to be bringing in former Meta director Manish Chopra to lead the brand.
Shein’s parent entity will receive a licence fee as a share of profits generated solely within India. The operations will be managed by a company wholly owned by Reliance Retail. Crucially, all data and the app itself will be hosted and stored within India, ensuring that Shein has no access to or control over this data.
These are some of the key factors behind Shein’s comeback to India being approved by the government nearly one year ago.
Reliance Retail is set to launch the Chinese fast-fashion label Shein within the coming weeks. Further, to diversify its supply chain and promote domestic industries, Shein reportedly will be sourcing goods from India for its global operation in the Middle East and other markets.
More than anything else, fast fashion brands and indeed other some of the more premium brands need to worry about the Reliance factor. Shein’s brand name and Reliance’s massive resource base are a deadly combo.
Reliance Retail’s fashion ecommerce app Ajio directly competes with Myntra, Nykaa Fashion, Meesho, Amazon India, Flipkart, Tata Cliq, and other platforms. From a distribution point of view, Ajio will be the exclusive storefront for Shein, and exclusivity is a big deal in fashion ecommerce.
Ajio commands around 30% market share based on monthly active users (MAUs), data sourced from AllianceBernstein shows.
Flipkart Group’s Myntra maintains the highest market share in terms of active users, surpassing 50%. However, the report notes a decrease in transaction frequency, with Myntra’s GMV growing only 12% in FY23 compared to 35% in FY22.
“Shein’s re-entry may have a somewhat negative impact on Nykaa Fashion, as Nykaa primarily targets the premium fashion segment. In contrast, Myntra caters to both the mass and premium fashion markets and already has strong brand recognition in the fashion industry. Therefore, the impact on Myntra might be mild, whereas Nykaa Fashion could feel more significant effects,” Karan Taurani, SVP, at Elara Capital said.
He added that Shein is part of a broader strategy by Reliance Retail to expand its portfolio of brands. In that sense, Shein is just another addition to its portfolio.
A Myntra executive admitted to Inc42 that Ajio has an edge when it comes to exclusivity, but added that Myntra has also introduced Gen Z-focussed features which are gaining fast traction. Myntra’s focus on in-house brands or private labels is paying off, however, at the same time, the company is also looking to snap up more exclusive brand partnerships.
Should D2C Brands Worry?
One thing that Ajio cannot afford to do is give Shein more prominence. Fashion ecommerce marketplaces are quick to see gaps in terms of sales of particular brands and look to woo them to their side. In this regard, Shein will be competing with a number of D2C brands as well as international labels in fast fashion.
As per Inc42 data, between 2018 and 2023, D2C fashion brands captured almost 93% of the total funding raised in the Indian fashion ecommerce space.
The Myntra executive quoted above believes that Shein will definitely disrupt D2C fashion brands in India as many of them target the Gen Z audience, but they are also looking to protect margins and break into the premium segment.
The D2C landscape in fashion includes the likes of Andamen, House Of Rare, Bombay Shirt Company, Snitch, Damensch, The Souled Store among others. And there are houses of brands such as Mensa Brands, TMRW and others which combined have dozens of brands across categories in fashion. It’s not easy to stand out, and Shein will have to fight for its space on the aisles.
Most of these brands are looking to widen their net margins by adding premium products. Premiumisation is a major thesis among Indian D2C brands right now as they realise many of them are targeting a very limited cream of the market.
On the other hand, Shein has built its reputation on affordability. So is Shein actually directly competing with these players? Market experts believe that Shein is not successful just because of its pricing, but its use of data.
“Brands with the right product and high-quality service should attract customers who are not price-sensitive. A price-oriented brand is not a major threat; the real risk is if your product fails to keep up with market trends. Fashion-driven brands could take your business away if your product quality and service do not meet customer expectations. However, if your product is trendy, the quality is high, and your service is good, you should be safe in retaining customers who are not focused on price,” Devangshu Dutta, founder and CEO of Third Eyesight, said.
Those in the industry do believe that one brand cannot conquer the fashion market. That simply does not happen with the fashion industry, which is why there is so much depth in the market. Shein’s success will lead to the emergence of more D2C brands that look to mimic the data-led, trend-first model.
“The potential of the Indian market is evident, and it’s becoming increasingly exciting. This means that many companies will emerge in this category to serve this customer base. It validates the hypothesis we had two and a half years ago: the Indian consumer is evolving, and fashion should evolve along with them. From that perspective, Shein’s entry justifies and validates our hypothesis,” the founder of a Bengaluru-based GenZ-focussed fashion brand said.
Good brands always emerge from intense competitive churn, and Indian brands have the potential to go global if they hit it big. “Competing against Shein and building a successful business will open new opportunities for us and strengthen our execution and agility,” the founded quoted above added.
Is Shein Ready For Second Innings?
Now, coming back to Shein, it remains to be seen if it will be able to gain popularity like its first stint in India. One must remember that Shein tried to make a comeback in India in 2021 after the government’s ban through ecommerce giant Amazon, but the brand supposedly did not get much traction.
“I think the case of visibility is different when comparing Amazon and Reliance Retail. Through Reliance Retail, the visibility could be much higher compared to Amazon because Reliance Retail already has a very wide portfolio of fashion brands, including more than 25-30 luxury brands across various categories. It’s all about creating visibility, generating buzz, and going to market together in terms of marketing efforts. Reliance has a very strong omnichannel presence, both online and offline,” Elara Capital’s Taurani said.
While Amazon is, of course, a large ecommerce phenomenon, the platform is not a primary port-of-call for online fashion shoppers. This is why Shein could potentially perform better with Reliance Retail.
“We have to wait and see how Shein performs in India. We will need to observe how this unfolds to comment on its visibility and performance, both online and offline. In marketplaces, brands compete daily, and Shein’s strength has always been its designs. We’ll have to closely watch how Reliance leverages this strength,” an industry analyst said.
(Published on Inc42)
