Mukesh Ambani’s Reliance battles mom-and-pop stores for India’s shoppers

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November 18, 2025

Chris Kay, Krishn Kaushik and Andrea Rodrigues in Mumbai

Nov 18 2025

Just before dawn, Kashif Sameer joins dozens of couriers zipping across Mumbai to deliver items stocked in a basement of a shopping mall run by Reliance Industries.

“I make between 20 and 30 deliveries in a day,” said the 25-year-old, who had just driven a mile across the chaotic roads of the Indian megacity to drop off groceries ordered 15 minutes earlier. “It is very popular with customers.”

The buzzing activity at the so-called dark store, a mini-warehouse operated by Reliance’s ecommerce platform JioMart, is part of a renewed push by the conglomerate’s chair and Asia’s richest man, Mukesh Ambani, to reassert his company’s position in India’s retail market.

It has added hundreds of dark stores to operate a total of nearly 20,000 physical outlets this year — almost double its pre-pandemic size — as it battles for dominance against Blinkit, Swiggy and Zepto in the country’s ballooning quick-commerce market.

“It’s a question of who runs out of money first,” said Arvind Singhal, chair of retail consultancy The Knowledge Company. “We will see some kind of a shakeout.”

Despite its large network of physical stores, Reliance has yet to corner the domestic consumer market like it did with telecoms a decade ago. It faces entrenched competition from established domestic and international rivals, as well as millions of kiranas, family-run convenience stores.

The sprawling Tata Group operates a wide range of consumer businesses, while global multinationals such as Unilever and Nestlé are important players in India’s household goods market.

Reliance Retail, the division that contains all of the conglomerate’s consumer-facing units, had shed tens of thousands of employees and closed underperforming stores following a bloated build-out during the Covid-19 pandemic and slowing middle-class spending.

But India’s most valuable company, which has a market value of more than $225bn and operates across oil refining, telecoms and entertainment, is expanding its retail reach again.

Reliance Retail’s latest results point to a rebound. In the quarter ending September, the unit reported revenue of about $10bn and profit of $390mn, up 18 and 22 per cent respectively from the previous year.

“Reliance’s scale in retail now is unmatched in India,” said Devangshu Dutta, chief executive of consumer advisory company Third Eyesight, in reference to the breadth of the conglomerate’s business. “This scale is unique in India and rare in global retail.”

Ambani’s retail ambitions are being led by his 34-year-old daughter, Isha. In August, she detailed plans for Reliance’s consumer brands subsidiary, which has a portfolio including Lotus Chocolate and the recently revived nostalgic Indian soft drink Campa Cola, to reach $11.7bn in revenue within five years.

Ultimately, the goal was to “become India’s largest FMCG company with a global presence”, said Isha Ambani during Reliance’s annual meeting.

The company told the Financial Times that it continued to “reinforce its position as India’s largest retailer, expanding its nationwide network”.

While Ambani originally indicated that he wanted to list Reliance Jio Infocomm, the telecoms unit, and Reliance Retail by 2024, people familiar with the company said the retail unit was not ready to go public. The billionaire said the Jio listing could happen in the first half of next year.

“Competitive intensity in every category in the discretionary retail side has picked up very sharply,” said Karan Taurani, executive vice-president at Elara Capital, who does not expect Reliance Retail to float for at least two years. “New competitors, new brands have come in and they are challenging the larger incumbents.”

The Ambanis, who operate as gatekeepers for foreign companies seeking access to India’s massive but challenging business landscape, have sought to cement their position through a spate of partnerships with western retail brands.

Foreign brands including West Elm, Pottery Barn and Superdry have stores in Reliance’s shopping malls in upmarket Mumbai. However, those joint ventures have largely struggled to gain traction with shoppers in India, where the per capita income remains less than $3,000.

The conglomerate’s foreign brands business housing these joint ventures lost Rs2.7bn ($30mn) in the financial year through March 2025, according to the latest available accounts. The Knowledge Company’s Singhal called Reliance’s push to bring international names to India “a vanity project”.

Reliance’s high-profile partnership with fast-fashion retailer Shein has also been underwhelming. The company returned to India this year under Reliance’s wing after being booted out in 2020 when relations between New Delhi and Beijing soured following military clashes along their disputed border.

Shein’s app has been downloaded just 11mn times, according to market intelligence firm Sensor Tower. Its discount prices are largely matched, if not undercut, by many Indian ecommerce and fashion retailers, say analysts.

Reliance is investing heavily in quick commerce, where deliveries are promised in 30 minutes or less. Bank of America estimates the market could reach $128bn by 2030.

The field is at present dominated by Blinkit, Swiggy and Zepto, which together control more than 90 per cent of the quick commerce delivery market and compete with Amazon and Walmart-owned Flipkart. None of the companies are profitable.

The Ambanis are eager to catch up. Over the past six months, Reliance has built about 600 dark stores across cities to plug gaps in its vast store network. By contrast, market leader Blinkit operates about 1,800 dark stores.

In quick commerce, “we have to be there because everybody is”, said a person close to the conglomerate. “It is a long-term strategy.”

On a call with analysts last month, Reliance Retail’s finance chief Dinesh Taluja admitted to delays in entering quick commerce. But he insisted that Reliance offered better prices, more variety and wider reach across smaller Indian cities where it is often the only formal retailer.

“The competition today is mainly in the top 10, 20 cities,” Taluja said. “We are present in almost a thousand cities. Competition will take many years to reach where we already have a head start there.”

Still, Reliance was facing an uphill battle, warned Elara’s Taurani. “JioMart is making a late entry,” he said, “it will be very tough to disrupt players here.”

(Published in Financial Times, all copyrights owned by FT)

India’s retail media growth: Will new players find room against Amazon and Flipkart?

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October 10, 2025

Pooja Yadav, Exchange4Media
10 October 2025

Over the years, India’s e-commerce market has been dominated by the duopoly of Amazon and Flipkart. These platforms have not only captured consumer attention but also shaped how brands spend their marketing budgets. In parallel to this, the concept of retail media networks (RMNs), marketplaces selling ad placements to brands directly, has also grown rapidly. Not only this, it is emerging as one of the fastest-growing channels in digital advertising.

As a result, the industry is witnessing a wave of new retail media platforms entering the market. From grocery and pharmacy marketplaces to Q-comm platforms, D2C marketplaces, and ONDC pilots, all are attempting to carve out space for themselves. Yet despite these new entrants, Amazon and Flipkart continue to command the lion’s share of shopper-marketing rupees, leaving little oxygen, even for challenger players like eBay, even as it retools its India strategy.

Retail media is now outpacing social and video in growth, and in India, this expansion remains concentrated around these two dominant players. According to several experts e4m spoke with, Amazon and Flipkart dominate because of their massive logged-in traffic at the point of purchase, first-party data, and closed-loop attribution linking impressions directly to GMV. These platforms succeed by combining large logged-in audiences, direct attribution from impressions to sales, and first-party data insulated from signal loss-advantages most challengers cannot match.

Adding to this, Shradha Agarwal, Co-Founder & CEO of Grapes, highlighted the key hurdles brands face when allocating budgets to newer networks like ONDC or eBay. She noted that brands consider three main factors: whether the network can deliver the same sales efficiency, whether it reaches new users or just shoppers already accessible on Amazon, and whether the scale is meaningful. Quoting an example, she said if a brand is already generating 10 crore on Amazon, it may question whether investing in a new platform that delivers only 25 lakh is worth the effort.

Vaibhav Jain, Head of Media at First Economy, pointed out, the biggest barriers to scaling budgets across newer retail media networks like eBay or ONDC or any other, are fragmented infrastructure, limited data maturity, and inconsistent measurement. Many platforms still lack robust first-party data systems and unified reporting standards, making it difficult for brands to validate ROI at the level provided by Amazon or Flipkart.

Everyone’s building a network – but is there room?

Despite the dominance of Amazon and Flipkart, the retail media landscape is attracting new entrants, including grocery and pharmacy marketplaces, Q-commerce platforms, D2C marketplaces, and ONDC pilots, all attempting to carve out space for themselves. Among these challengers, eBay has recently re-entered India with a markedly different approach focussing on building technical and export-led capabilities rather than competing directly in the domestic consumer market.

Against this backdrop, eBay has reopened its India chapter with a Global Capability Centre (GCC) in Bengaluru, planning to host over 300 engineers across AI/ML, product, design, and data analytics. Unlike its previous consumer-facing stints in 2005 and 2013, this pivot is capability and export-led, not a direct battle with domestic marketplaces. Globally, eBay earns revenue through Promoted Listings and other advertising products, but in India, it has historically lacked domestic shopper scale and first-party data, the two critical ingredients that make retail media profitable.

This time, eBay appears to be betting on cross-border trade, technology-led capabilities, and potentially new ad-tech opportunities a model that could differentiate it from established players like Amazon and Flipkart.

Speaking on this, Lloyd Mathias, business strategist and angel investor, said, “Retail media takes off only when you have a large front-end site like Amazon or Flipkart, where advertisers want to reach shoppers at the point of purchase. I don’t think retail media is going to be a big revenue driver for eBay at all.”

Adding to this, seasoned e-commerce analyst and Datum Intelligence advisor Satish Meena noted, “Retail-media economics depend on domestic shopper traffic and first-party data both of which eBay currently lacks in India. The realistic play is export-facing promotions, enabling Indian sellers to advertise SKUs to international buyers on eBay’s global sites. That’s valuable but niche, and unlikely to rival Flipkart or Amazon’s India-scale retail-media businesses.”

Devangshu Dutta of Third Eyesight stated, “On the trade front, the company appears to be prioritising exports from India rather than competing in the domestic market, which is already hypercompetitive and price-driven.”

Until eBay establishes a stronger consumer-facing presence, retail media will not be a priority, as per experts. In the near term, its strategy is likely to focus on export-facing ads, promoting Indian sellers to global buyers. Looks like this approach is unlikely to challenge Amazon or Flipkart in India.

What it would take to break the duopoly

While eBay’s strategy has been called smart, opportunities remain. Harish Bijoor, Founder, Harish Bijoor Consults Inc, noted that communication formats are evolving. with peer-to-peer engagement gaining reliability over top-down approaches. Amazon and Flipkart follow top-down models, whereas eBay could differentiate itself through 1:1 consumer interaction.

After two failed attempts at cracking India’s consumer market, eBay’s third innings (as some may call) is fundamentally different. It is no longer chasing domestic consumers but enabling Indian sellers to export globally, leveraging eBay’s global logistics, trust programs, and buyer base. The company is also partnering with government export initiatives, MSME councils, and logistics providers, while buildin technical, analytic, and product capabilities through the Bengaluru GCC.

Mandar Lande, co-founder of Waayu, a platform working with ONDC and MSMEs to enable digital commerce, said that eBay is unlikely to build a traditional retail media business in India without a large consumer marketplace. “eBay lacks the first-party shopper data and traffic scale that power retail media networks like Amazon Ads or Flipkart Ads. However, it could still build a niche ad-tech play focused on export sellers, cross-border insights, and global buyer intent analytics essentially an “export intelligence and seller marketing’ platform rather than a domestic retail media business. While it won’t rival Amazon Ads in India, it can carve out a high-value B2B media niche rooted in cross-border commerce rather than local eyeballs.”

For challenger brands like eBay aiming to break into India’s retail media landscape, success will depend on proving incremental sales rather than just impressions, offering unique audiences, maintaining pricing flexibility, and providing ease of buying through self-serve tools and standardised metrics.

Experts told eam that while retail media and ad-tech may not be immediate revenue drivers, eBay’s export-first strategy allows the company to build scale, technology, and credibility, setting the stage for potential consumer-facing or advertising initiatives in the future.

Jain mentioned, “Closed-loop measurement is central to shifting brand spend beyond Amazon and Flipkart. It offers verifiable proof of performance, linking ad exposure directly to sales. Challenger retail media networks that can deliver credible attribution and comparable ROAs will gain traction faster. Measurement sophistication isn’t just an advantage; it’s the entry ticket to serious brand consideration.”

Speaking about how self-serve tools, standardised metrics, and competitive CPC/CPM rates influence a brand’s willingness to experiment with challenger retail media networks, Jain told e4m that these elements are critical for encouraging experimentation. They simplify campaign management, enable agility, and allow brands to benchmark performance fairly against established players.

From a brand execution perspective, Agarwal emphasised that the availability of self-serve tools is crucial for experimentation. Advertising on commerce platforms was previously cumbersome, but self-serve options now allow brands to launch campaigns at any budget, large or small, providing flexibility and control. When pricing is competitive and reporting is standardised, brands are more willing to test new networks. Early experiments have shown that allocating even a portion of retail media budgets to challenger platforms can deliver meaningful incremental sales, although such cases remain limited.

Reality check for 2025 plans

Brands in India are increasingly looking to diversify their retail media spend and reduce costs, but in a market dominated by Amazon and Flipkart, certainty still drives allocation decisions. Amazon Ads India revenue surged to 8,342 crore in FY25, a 25% year-on-year increase, while Flipkart Ads has grown 600% since 2020, capturing a significant share of marketplace marketing budgets. Until challengers can match these giants on shopper intent, identity, and attribution, most retail media budgets will remain top-heavy.

While many new entrants are trying to add variety at the edges by offering niche audiences, alternative ad formats, and export-focussed solutions, However, breaking into the core of India’s retail media market requires domestic scale, robust attribution frameworks, and access to unique audiences that cannot be replicated elsewhere.

Experts point to several structural barriers for newer networks. Fragmented infrastructure, limited first-party data, and inconsistent measurement make it difficult for brands to validate ROI at the level provided by Amazon or Flipkart.

(Published in Exchange4media)

Chinese fast-fashion platform Shein ramps up speed, scale to win India market

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September 24, 2025

Shabori Das & Sagar Malviya, Economic Times
Bengaluru/Mumbai, 24 September 2025

Chinese fast-fashion platform Shein plans to triple the number of launches in India and shrink its design-to-launch timeline by a third to deepen its push into an increasingly competitive market, a top official said.

The company, which re-entered India through a partnership with Reliance Retail in February this year, said it is overhauling its supply chain to enable faster turnaround times. To achieve this, it has moved away from large-scale manufacturing hubs to smaller production lines with each line focused on creating a single new design daily.

“Our current timelines, measured from ‘thought to site’, stand at 46 days. We are targeting 30 days,” said Vineeth Nair, chief executive of Reliance’s fashion platform Ajio that steers Shein in India. “We currently deliver 320 styles a day – about 10,000 a month – and plan to scale that to over 30,000 styles monthly in the coming months,” he told ET.

Speaking about the speed of manufacturing, Nair said, “We quantify our options in terms of production lines, with each line optimised to deliver one design option per day, rather than factories. Some of our large production units have been repurposed into multiple lines.”

Shein first launched in India in 2018 with its own online shop. However, the app was banned by the Ministry of Electronics and Information Technology (MeitY) along with TikTok, WeChat and over 55 other Chinese apps.

One of the primary issues and controversies surrounding Shein’s India operations was the use of the consumer data by the Chinese apparel retailer.

Under the current partnership model, Reliance Retail is operating Shein under licensing agreement and ensures complete customer data ownership as per the company.

Unlike international markets, Shein India products are made in India.

“It’s still early days – just about three months since we introduced Shein to the India Gen Z,” Nair said. “And we are still in the process of adding multiple products, which we intend to do in the next few months.”

He said the brand is witnessing two million daily average users, dominated by 21-year-old women who account for 62% of the traffic.

Shein, the world’s biggest ecommerce-centred fashion retailer, however, may find it hard to replicate its global success in India, according to Devangshu Dutta, founder of retail consulting firm Third Eyesight.

“Shein’s edge internationally has been its speed of dropping its products, and the width of its product category. The India model is not the same. The India model of fashion is slower, and the product category width is not as large,” he noted. “Hence, the brand will in all probability end up competing with the already established market like Myntra, Zudio and the likes.”

(Published in Economic Times)

Global beauty firms look to carve up Indian market as ‘last bastion’ of growth

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August 21, 2025

Praveen Paramasivam, Reuters
August 21, 2025

Summary

India's luxury beauty market to quintuple by 2035
Domestic brands account for less than a tenth of sales
Global brands modify offerings for India

India’s luxury beauty market is expected to quintuple to $4 billion by 2035 from $800 million in 2023, driven by its young, affluent, social-media savvy shoppers with rising disposable incomes, consulting firm Kearney and luxury beauty distributor LUXASIA said in a report.

Luxury beauty makes up just 4% of the $21-billion beauty and personal care market, compared with 8% to 24% across top Southeast Asian countries and 25% to 48% in developed markets including China and the United States.

That means there is plenty of room for growth.

“India is the last bastion of growth for premium beauty,” said Sameer Jindal, managing director for investment bank Houlihan Lokey’s corporate finance business in India.

“The Indian consumer is willing to experiment and try out new things.”

U.S. beauty giant Estee Lauder home to the brands Clinique and MAC, expects a strong runway for expansion and long-term growth in India, even as it grapples with soft sales in the Americas and Asia-Pacific.

“India today, within the Estee Lauder network, is looked at as one of the priority emerging markets,” said country general manager Rohan Vaziralli, highlighting plans to initially target 60 million women in the nation of more than 1.4 billion.

Homemaker R. Priyanka, based in the southern city of Chennai, said she was thrilled to have better access to Estee Lauder’s Jo Malone London fragrance in India, as a benefit of the companies’ efforts.

“It is easier than asking someone (abroad) to get it for you every time,” she added.

While global beauty brands might have to modify some of their products for India, which bakes in sultry temperatures in summer and oppressive humidity at other times, they face little competition from homegrown brands.

Kearney and LUXASIA identified only Forest Essentials and Kama Ayurveda as their major rivals, underscoring how domestic brands make up less than a tenth of luxury beauty sales.

In the more established markets of China, Japan and South Korea by comparison, domestic brands account for a 40% share.

“There is, of course, a premium perception gap between globally established brands and Indian brands,” said Devangshu Dutta, founder of retail consultancy Third Eyesight.

Global beauty giants’ huge marketing budgets also give them an edge over domestic brands, other industry watchers said.

WOOING INDIAN SHOPPERS

Estee Lauder is studying online sales patterns to identify the smaller cities to target, such as Siliguri in West Bengal state, partnering with designers such as Sabyasachi Mukherjee, and launching products such as kohl, an eyeliner Indians favour.

It has also invested in Forest Essentials, a brand with herbal ingredients, and in a programme offering funding to domestic beauty start-ups.

This year France’s L’Oreal said it was investing more in India and tapping into the “elevated beauty desires” of the nation’s young, digitally savvy, empowered women shoppers to drive growth. It declined further comment.

South Korea’s Amorepacific, known for brands such as Innisfree and Etude, is trying to leverage the Korean beauty craze in India with products geared to the market.

These include items for the popular “cleanser, serum, moisturiser, and sunscreen” beauty regimen, the country head, Paul Lee, said.

Japan’s Shiseido, with a history of more than 150 years, brought its NARS brand to Indian beauty retailer Nykaa’s website this year, and plans to step up growth of its brands in the subcontinent.

Global brands are very excited about India, where consumers are splurging more to stay on top of trends such as “cherry makeup”, Nykaa co-founder Adwaita Nayar said, referring to a look featuring flushed cheeks, glossy lips, and soft pink eyes.

Amazon, which has also been seeing a big boom in beauty demand in India, aims to identify emerging global trends and bring in more brands, said Siddharth Bhagat, director of beauty and fashion at the e-commerce company in India.

Retailer Shoppers Stop, which also pioneers foreign labels, plans to open 15 to 20 beauty stores in each of the next three years to boost its revenue from the segment to a quarter from less than a fifth now, its beauty business CEO Biju Kassim said.

Reporting by Praveen Paramasivam in Chennai; Editing by Dhanya Skariachan and Clarence Fernandez

(Published on Reuters)

India’s richest man can’t crack e-commerce, even with Shein

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May 23, 2025

By Kunal Purohit and Ananya Bhattacharya, Rest of World
Mumbai, India, 23 May 2025

Online retail continues to elude India’s richest man.

The Shein India app, launched by Mukesh Ambani’s Reliance Retail in partnership with the Chinese fast-fashion giant, has struggled to gain traction in a market where Amazon and Walmart have been fighting neck-to-neck for nearly a decade. Downloads for Shein India nosedived from 50,000 a day shortly after its launch in early February to 3,311 in early April, according to AppMagic, a U.S.-based app performance tracker.

In April, when U.S. tariffs hit China, the app saw renewed interest as it was in the news, but experts are unclear on whether this growth is sustainable.

“Unlike earlier times, now … [the] market is saturated with multiple options and offers, and user interest can quickly dwindle,” Yugal Joshi, partner at global research firm Everest Group, told Rest of World.

Kushal Bhatnagar of Indian consulting firm Redseer, however, sees the late-April spike as a healthy sign, given that Reliance has yet to run paid marketing campaigns for Shein.

Reliance Retail declined to respond to Rest of World’s queries about its partnership with Shein.

Reliance launched Shein for India five years after the original Shein app was banned in the country over border tensions with China. But the Shein that has returned is entirely separate from Shein’s global platform: Rather than selling made-in-China clothes and accessories directly to consumers, Shein now operates as a technology partner, while Reliance Retail handles the heavy lifting — from sourcing and manufacturing to distribution. All consumer data is managed by the Indian company.

The partnership is part of Ambani’s broader effort to overhaul his retail business, whose valuation fell to $50 billion in 2025 from $125 billion in 2022. Although the company has made a push into digital platforms like JioMart, Ajio, and most recently Shein India, the bulk of its retail revenue still comes from its 18,000 physical stores.

Lagging behind Amazon and Walmart-backed Flipkart, which together control nearly 60% of India’s e-commerce market, Reliance has spent years trying to break into the sector. Between 2020 and 2025, Ambani’s group acquired majority stakes in companies spanning digital services, online pharmaceuticals, and quick commerce. But the investments have yet to position Reliance as a serious challenger to Amazon and Flipkart.

Analysts say the Indian behemoth hopes to leverage Shein’s artificial intelligence-powered trendspotting and automated inventory systems to pursue an ambitious goal: capturing a major share of India’s e-commerce market, projected to hit $345 billion by 2030.

According to Kaustav Sengupta, director of insights at VisionNxt, an Indian government-funded initiative that uses AI to forecast fashion trends, such a model is likely to make good use of Reliance’s humongous customer data sets: more than 476 million subscribers for its Jio telecom brand, 300 million users for e-commerce platform JioMart, and 452 million subscribers for its news and entertainment portfolio, consisting of 63 channels, a streaming service, and digital news outlets.

“With these data points, Reliance wants to now sell fashion products, so all it needs is a system where it can feed all these data points,” Sengupta told Rest of World. He said the model would be able to predict best-selling products and suggest the right prices for them.

The original Shein app uses AI-driven models for intelligent warehousing and to spot customer trends before manufacturing a new product. It scales the manufacturing up or tweaks the designs based on the feedback. At any given time, the Shein website has a catalogue of more than 600,000 items. Its Indian iteration does not match up, according to reviews on the Google Play store. Several customer reviews for Reliance’s Shein app are critical of higher prices and reduced options. The app’s rating hovered at 2 out of 5 until February; in May, it climbed to 4.4, but reviews were still a mixed bag.

Reviews of the Indian app highlight the disparity with Shein’s global version, criticizing higher prices and a reduced selection of categories and styles.

As of April 25, Reliance Retail said only 12,000 products were live on Shein India, a stark contrast to the 600,000 items available on Shein’s global platforms. While Shein is reportedly set to debut on the London Stock Exchange this year, Ambani’s years-old promise to take Reliance Retail public remains unfulfilled.

Reliance Retail, which accounts for around 30% of the conglomerate’s overall business, is facing a slowdown in annual growth. Its sales rose just 7.9% in the fiscal year ending March 2025, down from 17.8% the previous year. Meanwhile, shares of rival Tata Group’s retail and fashion arm, Trent, have soared by 133%.

“Reliance would have looked at reviving that momentum and riding on it, while for Shein, adding India back on its portfolio of markets could be a plus point before its proposed public listing,” Devangshu Dutta, founder of Third Eyesight, a brand management consultancy that has worked with various global e-commerce brands including Ikea, told Rest of World.

A Reliance Retail official privy to information about its fast fashion expansion plans told Rest of World the partnership with Shein also hinges on global manufacturing ambitions as the Chinese company is trying to “source its products from other countries like India” to meet the “additional demand that is coming from newer markets.” Reliance Retail has tapped a network of small and midsize Indian manufacturers to locally source products, and its subsidiary Nextgen Fast Fashion Limited is leading the charge. “We need to first scale up our domestic manufacturing, before our partnership starts manufacturing for global markets. Let us see how that goes, first,” the official said, requesting anonymity as he is not authorized to share this information publicly.

India’s Gen Z population is at 377 million and counting, and their spending power is set to surpass $2 trillion by 2035, according to a 2024 report by Boston Consulting Group. Every fast-fashion retailer wants to capture this market, but it “is very new even for Reliance,” Rimjim Deka, founder of Indian fast-fashion platform Littlebox, told Rest of World.

Deka said smaller brands like hers “just see [a trend] and implement it,” which could take a large conglomerate months to do, by which time the trend may have lost relevance.

Reliance’s previous attempts to attract young shoppers with clothing brands like Foundry and Yousta failed to find much success. Anandita Bhuyan, who works in trend forecasting and product creation for fast-fashion clients like H&M and Myntra, told Rest of World the company has struggled to effectively leverage consumer data and target India’s youth.

According to the Reliance Retail official, the company is confident that if “there are 10 existing brands, the 11th brand will also get picked up as long as there is value and there is fashion.”

“Shein already has a recall among the youth. It gives us yet another brand in our portfolio through which we can cater to the youth,” the official said.

Shein was built in China on the back of more than 5,400 micro manufacturers — a scattered and loosely organized network of small and midsize factories.

In January this year, on a visit to China, Deka met with manufacturers working for Shein and Temu. On the outskirts of Guangzhou, Deka saw factories set up in areas that appeared residential, with “women sitting inside houses” making clothes.

“The tech is built in a way that somebody sitting there is able to see that, okay, next 15 days or next one month, how much I should be making … that is the kind of integration they have done,” Deka said.

Deka told Rest of World this model is easier to replicate at a smaller scale. “Me, coming from [the] supply chain industry, I understand that it is much easier for a brand like us because we are at a very smaller scale. We can still go to those people, we can still build it in a very unorganized way and then pull it off,” she said. Her company’s annual net revenue is 750 million Indian rupees ($8.6 million).

“[But] somebody like Reliance, they just cannot go haphazard here. … It has to be always organized,” Deka said.

Shein moved its headquarters to Singapore sometime between late 2021 and early 2022, a strategic departure to distance itself from its Chinese origins and facilitate hassle-free international expansion amid the U.S.-China trade war.

India is part of Shein’s wider strategy to diversify its supply chain — one that also includes a newly leased warehouse near Ho Chi Minh City in Vietnam, and efforts to establish alternative manufacturing hubs in Brazil and Turkey.

But in India, Reliance needs Shein as much as Shein needs Reliance for its global pivot. According to Bloomberg, Reliance Retail is focusing on creating leaner operations to weather a wider consumption slump in the Indian economy.

“It remains to be seen whether the Reliance-Shein combine can deliver on the brand’s promise with a wide range of products, fast and on-trend,” Dutta said. “In the years that Shein has been absent, the Indian market has evolved further, competition has intensified, and past goodwill is not enough to provide sales momentum.”

Kunal Purohit is a freelance journalist based in Mumbai, India.
Ananya Bhattacharya is a reporter for Rest of World covering South Asia’s tech scene. She is based in Mumbai, India.

(Published in Rest of World)