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December 14, 2024
Sagar Malviya, Economic Times
Mumbai, 14 December 2024
Fast fashion was on a slow lane in the last fiscal year. Sales growth slowed for top retailers and fast fashion brands, show the latest regulatory filings of Marks & Spencer, Zara, H&M, Levi’s, Lifestyle, Uniqlo, Benetton and Celio. The bottom line too had taken a hit, with most brands posting lower profits in the fiscal year ended March 31. Sales growth of H&M and Zara fell from 40% in FY23 to 11% and 8% in FY24, show the filings with the Registrar of Companies. Levi’s growth slowed to 4% from 54% in FY23, while that of Uniqlo halved to 31% from 60%.
The current year is not looking good either, as sticky inflation and stagnant income weigh on consumer spending on discretionary products, say experts.
Devangshu Dutta, founder of retail consulting firm Third Eyesight, said the job market has been under pressure and slower income growth for urban consumer impacted demand, a trend likely to continue even during FY25.
“There is a visible slowdown led by the urban middle class who buy branded products. These brands have been targeting young upwardly mobile consumers, who are tightening the purse strings due to the current economic circumstances of hiring slack and fewer jobs,” said Dutta. “The situation is not hunky-dory at all, and this will continue over the next few quarters.”
Being the world’s most populous country, India is an attractive market for apparel brands, especially with youngsters increasingly embracing western-style clothing. But most international and premium brands have been competing for a relatively narrow slice of the population pie in large urban centres.
Over the past few years, top global apparel and fast fashion brands struck a strong chord with young customers, racking up sales growth of between 40% and 60% in FY23, bucking the trend in a market where the overall demand for discretionary products started slowing down. This has reversed now.
Consumers started reducing non-essential spending, such as on apparel, lifestyle products, electronics and dining out since early last year due to high inflation, increase in interest rates, job losses in sectors like startups and IT, and an overall slowdown in the economy.
According to the Retailers Association of India (RAI), sales growth in organised retail segments such as apparel, footwear, beauty and quick service restaurants halved to 9% last year and slowed further to about 5% in the first six months in the current fiscal year. This slowdown came after a surge in spending across segments-from clothes to cars-in the post-pandemic period, triggered by revenge shopping.
“The base post-pandemic was extremely high, and that kind of growth is not sustainable as there is nothing spectacular in economy to drive demand,” said Kumar Rajagopalan, chief executive officer at the RAI that represents organised retailers. “Our bet was on the festive and wedding season, but we will have to wait and watch until next year for the performance numbers,” he said.
(Published in Economic Times)
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December 8, 2024
Sharleen Dsouza, Business Standard
Mumbai, 8 Dec 2024
The legal battle between Mahindra Electric Automobile and IndiGo Aviation over ‘6e’ continues in court, and brand experts believe the case is unlikely to stand up in law. However, Mahindra is receiving free publicity from this trademark infringement fight.
As the case progresses in the Delhi High Court (HC), Mahindra issued a statement on Saturday, saying, “We are hence taking the decision to brand our product BE 6.”
However, brand experts argue that since both companies operate in different sectors, there should not be any legal issues.
“Ideally, there shouldn’t be confusion, as they don’t operate in the same segment unless IndiGo plans to enter the car market, and vice versa. Everyone is being cautious about their brand,” said N Chandramouli, chief executive officer (CEO) of TRA Research.
He added that while everyone is being cautious about their brand, the use of ‘6e’ by Mahindra is not necessarily against the law. “It depends on what the court decides, and Mahindra Electric Automobile can prove in court that it will not harm its brand name.”
Devangshu Dutta, CEO of Third Eyesight, also said that there are several instances where brands and trademarks overlap. “From a marketing perspective, Mahindra Electric Automobile is getting free publicity from this fight. IndiGo’s position in this argument will depend on whether it has registered ‘6e’ as a trademark.”
Sandeep Goyal, chairman of Rediffusion, believes this is an interesting case. He said, “I’m not sure if ‘6e’ as a combination is registrable. However, IndiGo may well have secured the intellectual property (IP), though the trademark may not extend to automobiles.” He further added, “I’m sure Mahindra must have done its homework before using 6e in its vehicle name — it’s too public to risk unless it was unfettered and cleared by their lawyers.”
In its statement released on Saturday, Mahindra also said it has applied for trademark registration under Class 12 (vehicles) for ‘BE 6e’ as part of its electric sport utility vehicle portfolio. “The mark ‘BE’ is already registered with Mahindra in Class 12, and it stands for our Born Electric platform underpinning the BE 6e.”
“We believe it differs fundamentally from IndiGo’s ‘6e’, which represents an airline, eliminating any risk of confusion,” it added.
The statement also noted that, in the past, Tata Motors had objected to InterGlobe Enterprises using the IndiGo mark due to the Tata Indigo car brand. InterGlobe continues to use the IndiGo mark in a different industry. “We, therefore, find their objection to BE 6e inconsistent with its own previous conduct,” the statement said.
Last week, IndiGo released a statement saying that the ‘6e’ mark has been an integral part of IndiGo’s identity for the past 18 years and is a registered trademark with strong global recognition. “The ‘6e’ mark, whether standalone or in its variants and formative forms, is extensively used by IndiGo for its offerings and goods and services provided in collaboration with trusted partners.”
It added that any unauthorised use of the ‘6e’ mark, whether standalone or in any form, constitutes an infringement of IndiGo’s rights, reputation, and goodwill. “IndiGo is committed to taking all necessary and appropriate steps to safeguard its IP and brand identity,” the statement said.
The case will be heard in the Delhi HC on Monday.
(Published in Business Standard)
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December 4, 2024
Sagar Malviya, Economic Times
4 December 2024
Demand for sportswear from running shoes to joggers and yoga mats slowed down for leading firms such as Puma, Adidas, Nike, Skechers and Asics, halting their sprint since the easing of the Covid-19 pandemic when they doubled their sales in two years.
Sportswear firms have reported 1-25% year-on-year increase for 2023-24, down from 35-85% increase for the previous financial year, according to the latest regulatory filings. While demand for fitness wear and sports equipment for disciplines other than cricket grew as people prioritised health with the onset of Covid-19, consumers cut back on discretionary spends across categories over the past six to eight quarters.
Experts said companies capitalised on the popularity of more casual styles in the wake of the pandemic, a trend that has subsided now although people are more health conscious than ever. A broader slowdown, especially in cities, hurt premium categories including sportswear, which are completely dominated by global players.
“Sportswear or footwear has a slower replacement cycle than apparel and lifestyle products. Also, there is a distinct slowdown as it all comes down to income growth versus inflation. So, a longer term potential still remains for the segment but there is a short-term consumption stress,” said Devangshu Dutta, founder of retail consulting firm Third Eyesight.
With a population of 1.4 billion, India is among the fastest growing and largest international markets for footwear companies and over the years companies such as Under Armour, Asics and Skechers have expanded aggressively in the country.
Puma India managing director Karthik Balagopalan said the category has outpaced market growth with mid to high single digit growth rates even as subdued demand has lagged expectations.
“When it comes to health and fitness, consumers continue to spend on performance products and our sports-first strategy also leans towards that. Our ambition continues to grow at or be above market CAGR (compound annual growth rate) over the mid-term, and we think we are in a good place with our back-end infrastructure, our product portfolio and pipeline, BIS (Bureau of Indian Standards) readiness and our best-in-class team, who will continue to cement and retain our lead on competition,” he said.
In October, Foot Locker entered India through a long-term licensing agreement with Metro Brands, which will own and operate stores, while Nykaa Fashion will be its exclusive e-commerce partner.
However, there are challenges. In August this year, the government made it mandatory for footwear companies to obtain BIS certification for more than a dozen footwear products including sports brands. This impacted sales even last year as BIS had not issued licences to several foreign brands whose products were manufactured outside India, which in turn, forced brands to cut down on supplies.
American footwear firm Skechers said in its last earnings call that it had been growing exceptionally well in India for several years but there was a bit of an anomaly in part because of some of the regulatory changes that it had not yet fully responded to.
“We continue to work closely with both our India team and regulators to further advance our local sourcing strategy. We are seeing positive trends and remain optimistic about the progress in this important market. We see tremendous opportunity, not only in our lifestyle business, but also in performance,” Skechers chief operating officer David Weinberg told analysts.
(Published in Economic Times)
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September 12, 2024
By Richa Naidu and Dhwani Pandya, Reuters
London/Mumbai,12 September 2024
For years, the world’s biggest condom maker Reckitt Benckiser designed products and marketing to lure Indian men to its Durex brand. Now, it is pushing a growth strategy by betting on women and rural consumers.
India last year surpassed China to become the world’s most populous nation, but still fares poorly on the use of contraceptives. India’s government estimates only around 10% of men use condoms and for women, sterilization remains the popular form of contraception.
Social stigma surrounding sex – which some say stems from Victorian social norms established during British colonization – has for decades marginalized female pleasure in the Indian society.
But attitudes are changing and Reckitt is shifting marketing gears to take advantage of an upswing in condom use among Indian women – now a key target audience for Durex.
Around 9.5% of married Indian women cited using condoms during sex by 2021, almost double the use five years earlier, according to latest available government statistics. Among unmarried women, such use more than doubled to 27%.
Reckitt is reformulating products such as lubricants aimed at attracting women consumers, and has new marketing campaigns, Pankaj Duhan, Reckitt’s senior vice president of intimate wellness, told Reuters in an interview.
The Durex lubricants in India will use improved formulations to appeal to women and have been created after performing clinical studies to address concerns females face — 30% of Indian women experience some discomfort when having sex with their partner.
“We want to change this … That is why we are relaunching our lubes portfolio,” said Duhan. “The women tend to become a little bit more underserved consumer groups.”
The India condoms market is currently dominated by Mankind Pharma, which makes Manforce, followed by Reckitt and TTK Healthcare.
CHALLENGES
The British consumer goods firm faces some stiff challenges in its quest to carve out a lucrative slice of the female condom market and rural consumers, primarily with distribution and pricing – two areas industry watchers believe are key to success – but also in coaxing a still-largely conservative rural population to buy its products.
Moreover, competitors are making a pitch to women too, with Durex’s main rival and market leader Manforce tweaking its marketing — a recent ad stars a Bollywood actress talking about benefits of condoms and asking women to “go buy your own.”
“One challenge Reckitt may face is consistency of messaging,” said Devangshu Dutta, head of retail consultancy Third Eyesight, adding the company needs to figure out if it is targeting condoms for health, family planning, or pleasure as there could be different messaging for each type of shopper.
The growth opportunity is compelling – India’s condom market size is merely worth $210 million, compared to China’s $4.1 billion, but is forecast to grow at 7.4% compound annual rate between 2024 and 2030, according to Indian consulting firm 6Wresearch. The global market is worth $11.3 billion.
Growing the market will take some doing though, not least because of India’s vast size and millions of mom-and-pop stores require a widespread distributor network.
Currently, only about 10-15% of Durex’s sales in India come from rural areas, which is far more price sensitive than urban cities.
“Distribution is the big challenge simply because even though most consumer goods companies have made their way to all pincodes in the country, the question is maintaining availability at retail points,” said Dutta of Third Eyesight.
CHIPPING AWAY AT TABOOS
Sex education in the conservative country is also lagging, and there is a vast gulf between awareness and actual use of contraceptives.
Matt Godfrey, executive vice president for Asia Pacific at Monks ad agency, part of S4Capital, said marketing tweaks by the likes of Durex are a welcome change but condom use and sex education need to improve in India.
“There are significant societal and cultural aspects that need to be rapidly shifted to reverse the status quo,” he said.
In the eastern state of Odisha, for example, a small medical store of Sudam Padhan does not prominently display condoms as “people frown upon them”.
In India, it’s men who mostly buy condoms, but some like Pooja, a marketer in Mumbai, are trying to drive change. She made an “awkward” decision to buy condoms herself for the first time this year, saying “when I’m asking for a condom over the counter I am basically putting my health first”.
Still, in a telling sign of the somewhat taboo nature of the topic, the 31-year-old declined to share her last name as she is unmarried and feared societal admonition.
“An open conversation encouraging safe and responsible sex in India has been steadily progressing but needs to be continually supported” by brands including Durex, S4Capital’s Godfrey said.
Like many of its rivals, Reckitt has over the years largely focussed on Indian men, with many ads featuring women wearing skimpy clothes.
Rival Manforce Condoms features former pornstar Sunny Leone in videos, some labelled “EXCLUSIVE UNCENSORED”. Duhan said many of the condom ads “objectified women.”
But that’s changing. Durex earlier this year launched a risqué “Explorers Wanted” lubricants campaign in India which featured sensual shots of nude male body parts.
PRICING PAINS
Pricing is another big challenge, especially in stores in smaller towns and villages which are reluctant to stock condoms and lubes. Duhan said products have to be “extremely cheap” to sell in some rural areas, where many use free government-provided condoms.
Padhan, from the medical store in Odisha, doesn’t stock Durex “because they are costly and there’s no demand for them in rural areas,” and says most sales are of Ustad “Deluxe Condoms” made by a state-run firm.
Ustaad costs just 10 rupees (11 U.S. cents) for a pack of six. A pack of 10 Durex condoms starts retailing at around 250 rupees, with some priced above $6, and a similar pack of Manforce starts at $1.
But the smaller three-condom Durex pack starts retailing around 99 rupees, and Reckitt believes they will sell better in rural India.
“We are starting at the top (and) planning to get down to the rural areas,” Duhan said. “It’s a massive undertaking”.
(Reported and Published by Reuters)
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August 31, 2024
MG Arun, India Today
Aug 31, 2024
Nearly five years after the Centre brought in norms to rein in multinational e-commerce companies operating in India, Union commerce minister Piyush Goyal sparked fresh controversy by raising concerns over the rapid expansion of e-commerce. He also drew attention to the pricing strategies used by some e-commerce firms, questioning what he termed “predatory pricing”.
“Are we going to cause huge, social disruption with this massive growth of e-commerce? I don’t see it as a matter of pride that half our market may become part of the e-commerce network 10 years from now; it is a matter of concern,” Goyal said at an event in New Delhi last week.
His comments come at a time when the ecommerce business in India is growing exponentially. Estimated at $83 billion (around Rs 7 lakh crore) as of FY22, the market is expected to grow to $150 billion (Rs 12.6 lakh crore) by FY26. The growth will be due to multiple levers: a growing middle class, rising internet penetration, the proliferation of smartphones, convenience of online shopping and increasing digitisation of payments. The overall Indian retail market was pegged at $820 billion (Rs 69 lakh crore) in 2023, according to a report published by the Boston Consulting Group and the Retailers Association of India. E-commerce still comprises only about 7 per cent of that, as per Invest India.
The Indian e-commerce market is dominated by global giants, including Amazon and Walmart (which took over Flipkart in 2018). They, along with domestic players, offer huge discounted prices compared to retail prices, which drives online sales significantly. In FY23, Amazon Seller Services and Flipkart posted Rs 4,854 crore and Rs 4,891 crore losses, respectively. Goyal’s argument is that these losses are due to their predatory pricing.
“Is predatory pricing policy good for the country?” Goyal asked, while stressing the need for a balanced evaluation of e-commerce’s effects, particularly on traditional retailers such as restaurants, pharmacies and local stores. “I’m not wishing away ecommerce—it’s there to stay,” he said. Later, he said e-commerce uses technology that aids convenience. But there are 100 million small retailers whose livelihood depends on their businesses.
The Centre has specific laws that permit foreign direct investment (FDI) in e-commerce exclusively for business-to-business (B2B) transactions. However, according to Goyal, these laws have not been followed entirely in letter and spirit. Currently, India does not allow FDI in the inventory-based model of e-commerce, where e-commerce entities own and directly sell goods and services to consumers (B2C). FDI is permitted only in firms operating through a marketplace model, where an e-commerce entity provides a platform on a digital or electronic network to facilitate transactions between buyers and sellers (B2B).
The country’s laws also stipulate that in marketplace models, e-commerce entities cannot ‘directly or indirectly influence the sale price of goods or services’ and must maintain a ‘level playing field’. Entities in the marketplace model re allowed to transact with sellers registered on their platform on a B2B basis. However, each seller or its group company is not permitted to sell more than 25 per cent of the total sales of the marketplace model entity.
Goyal said certain structures have been created to suit large e-commerce players with “deep pockets”. Algorithms have been used to drive consumer choice and preference. For instance, several pharmacies have disappeared, he said, and a few large chains are dominating the retail space. He invoked the importance of platforms like the Open Network for Digital Commerce where small businesses can sell their products.
E-commerce firms counter the argument on predatory pricing. “It is the sellers’ discretion as to what price they should sell at,” says an industry source. The e-commerce player who provides the platform seldom has a role in it, he explains. “Sellers could be doing clearance sales or liquidation of old products at cheaper prices. Some sellers also source products at manufacturing cost and park it with e-commerce firms instead of involving warehousing agents. This helps cut their overhead costs and allows them to offer lower prices on the platform,” he adds.
Some experts are of the view that the government should not step in with controls and allow the market forces to play their role in determining prices. Price controls may lead to shortages, inferior product quality and the rise of illegal markets. Moreover, the Competition Commission of India (CCI), which is mandated to act against monopolies, may be given more teeth. It is ironical that, on the one hand, the Centre wants more FDI to flow in, but places more and more controls on foreign players on the other hand. At the core are the interests of small traders and retailers, a key section of the electorate.
Others argue that the government has a role to ensure that there is fair competition. “It is not just small retailers the government would be speaking for, but for large domestic players too,” says Devangshu Dutta, founder of consultancy firm Third Eyesight, emphasising that the government’s role should be to establish laws and practices that promote fairness.
According to him, it is no secret that e-commerce has grown through discounts. “For large e-commerce firms, market acquisition happens by acquiring a share of the consumer’s mind and through pricing. When a large sum is spent on advertisements, it is for acquiring the mind share of the consumer,” he says. “Pricing matters in a big way too. Whether you call it predatory pricing or market acquisition pricing depends on which side of the fence you are.”
(This article was originally published in the India Today edition dated September 9, 2024)
