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October 7, 2026
Vidya Sathyapriyan, ET Brand Equity
7 October 2026
Every single month, leather-goods brand Hidesign changes the storefront of its airport stores. The reason: “You can’t bore the man or woman who’s coming to the airport every week,” says founder Dilip Kapur.
But then what makes the airport shopper any different from someone walking into a high-street or mall store? Affluent? Sure. Willing to spend? Mostly. Time-poor and seeking convenience? Definitely.
That mix presents a particular challenge for brands: understanding what and why travellers will buy, and how quickly they can buy it.
Some have learnt to make the often lopsided economics work. Others are running an expensive billboard with a billing counter attached.
Crunching Numbers
The economics are punishing.
Airport rents, minimum guarantees, revenue-share, staffing and operating costs can make them significantly more expensive than conventional retail. For example, a good mall in Chennai charges roughly Rs. 350-800 per sq ft monthly in retail rent, compared with Rs. 150-200 per sq. ft. on the high street. Airport rentals can rise to as much as Rs. 6,000 per sq. ft. Similar differentials play out in other major cities.
Yet brands keep signing on because the alternative would be an advertising site with no retail attached. “A hoarding is for all and sundry and 1D,” says S. Shriram, founder of Miles2Go Consulting Services. “In the airport, captive audience, engagement is 3D and sometimes even 4D – touch and feel, trial, buy, and even return elsewhere.”
For deep-pocketed brands, spending on airport visibility can be justified even when store-level profitability is modest or even non-existent. Others gotta move on.
Go Colors, for instance, is rationalising stores at airports where the economics are not working. “The opportunity remains strong, but the location must justify the cost of access to the consumer,” says CMO Vatsal Koolwal. “As a broad benchmark, rentals in the range of 15-20% of revenue can work, provided the rest of the cost structure is managed effectively.”
The right sell
Six of Hidesign’s top-10 stores in India are at airports, says Kapur. The average Hidesign airport store generates roughly twice the turnover of an average mall store, while its smaller footprint pushes sales per square foot even higher.
A key reason is the skew in merchandise mix towards gifting.
Around 40% of the products sold in Hidesign’s airport stores are gifts. “If you have a product which can be gifted, can be purchased quickly and is work-oriented, you’ve covered most of the problematic variables.”
An overwhelming majority of domestic air travellers are men, who may not spend two hours browsing a mall, but can quickly buy a premium handbag for someone back home. Time is their scarcest resource, not money.
“Those are breaks (from routine). These are things that they would normally not have time to do,” adds Forest Essentials executive director Samrath Bedi on why premium skincare too commands attention in an airport environment.
But categories such as perfumes, cosmetics, watches, sunglasses, travel accessories and bags have an obvious advantage – they can be bought quickly and generally don’t require fitting rooms or extensive trial. As Pravat Paikray, VP-Commercial, Bangalore International Airport, says, these “one-size-fits-all” categories perform well.
Right-Sizing
Apparel, jewellery and other categories involving multiple sizes, fits or lengthy considerations have a harder job.
“Standalone apparel and niche lifestyle stores would typically be loss-making,” says founder, Third Eyesight, Devangshu Dutta.
Shriram believes even these categories are being held back by conventional merchandising assumptions. He points out that a business traveller does not necessarily need another blazer simply because they are at an airport. What they may need is a pair of track pants for an overnight trip, a gift for someone at home, or a product they discover while waiting for a flight.
For instance, Ramraj Cotton’s proposition works partly because of its local-brand resonance and partly because of its gifting-driven merchandising. “There are a lot of combos which work very well for gifting,” says Radhakrishnan. He says passengers are usually concerned about weight restrictions, so the store even repackages the items as per requirement. The brand declined Brand Equity’s interview request.
Airport merchandise can carry a 20-40% premium, he says, because the customer is paying partly for convenience. The traveller does not necessarily want to step out into the city just to save a few hundred rupees.
Front of the Queue
Paikray says Bengaluru airport explicitly designs its retail proposition around this time constraint. Brands are expected to adapt their store design, assortment, staffing, service and operations rather than simply transplanting their city format. “If a brand has 100 stores, don’t come and open 101st store in an airport, ” he says.
For Forest Essentials, what changes is also the reason the consumer is being shown the product, says Bedi. Hydration for flying, sleep on long journeys, stress relief, gifting, replenishment, etc. “It’s just about how you angle it.”
Bengaluru airport is also lowering the barriers for brands to test the market by using pop-up stores to let newer brands test travel retail without committing to long-term contracts.
Paikray says challenger and D2C brands are increasingly considering airports earlier in their expansion journeys.
But the opportunity is not on auto-pilot. Only those who adapt can turn the minutes before boarding into something more valuable than visibility – a sale.
(Published in ET Brand Equity)
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September 1, 2026
Pritha Pahari, The Core
1 September 2026
Reliance has spent more than a decade bringing together a long list of names such as Burberry and Tiffany & Co. to India. Its latest focus seems to be luxury celebrity brands, adding global pop star Rihanna’s Fenty Beauty and now media personality Kim Kardashian’s shapewear label SKIMS to its luxury brands portfolio.
Isha Ambani, executive director of Reliance Retail, has fronted most of these announcements herself.
Meanwhile, Nykaa, the beauty platform Reliance Retail keeps getting compared to, spent the last year going after some of the same celebrity founders.
In August 2025, Fenty Beauty moved from Nykaa’s platform to an exclusive deal with Reliance’s Sephora India and Tira. In June 2026, Nykaa answered by signing pop star Selena Gomez’s Rare Beauty. A month later, Reliance landed SKIMS.
India’s luxury and celebrity-brand market is split between Reliance’s scale and Nykaa’s beauty expertise, with Fenty, Rare Beauty and SKIMS showing how ownership, reach and brand fit are shaping who gets the biggest names.
Big Brands, Different Bets
Reliance wins brands through scale (20,169 stores, 396 million customers) and ownership ties; Fenty’s move to Sephora India is less a market choice than an internal LVMH routing decision, given LVMH’s stakes in both Fenty and Sephora.
But Nykaa is holding its own by competing on specialism, not size; its beauty-literate audience and curated community pulled in Rare Beauty and Chanel.
The brand fit, not just distribution muscle, still decides who signs where, and some brands (like Birkenstock) skip both platforms entirely.
The economics behind these deals are harder to pin down than the headlines suggest. None of the three — Fenty, Rare Beauty, or SKIMS — have disclosed minimum guarantees, royalty rates, or sales targets for their India entries; these are announced as partnerships, not filed joint ventures.
SKIMS raised $225 million in November 2025 at a $5 billion valuation, nearing $1 billion in annual net sales.
Fenty tells a different story: $450 million in 2024 sales, now valued at $1-2 billion, down sharply from a $2.8 billion estimate in 2021, with Jay-Z’s MarcyPen Capital Partners in talks to buy LVMH’s stake.
Rare Beauty’s India entry rides on Nykaa’s own momentum; the company’s revenue from operations rose 29% year on year (YoY) to Rs 2,782 crore in Q1 FY27, up from Rs 2,154.9 crore a year earlier. In the last quarter of FY26, revenue stood at Rs 2,648.1 crore.
The Core has reached out to Reliance and Nykaa for their response, and will update this report if and when they respond.
Why Fenty Chose Reliance
Fenty’s move looks more like an internal one, according to Suumit Kapoor, a brand growth consultant.
LVMH owns 50% of Fenty Beauty through its beauty incubator Kendo Brands, a stake it has held since co-founding the brand with Rihanna in 2017. LVMH also owns Sephora globally, and Sephora in India is run by Reliance.
“When Fenty enters a new market through Sephora, LVMH is effectively distributing its own equity stake through its own global retail infrastructure,” Kapoor said. For a brand with that kind of ownership overlap, he added, the choice of partner is “close to an internal routing decision” and not a genuine trade-off.
That ownership overlap is itself now in a pickle.
LVMH has been exploring a sale of its 50% Fenty stake since October 2025, working with investment bank Evercore, according to Reuters. As of June 2026, American rapper and businessman, Jay-Z’s investment firm MarcyPen Capital Partners was reported to be among the parties in talks to buy it.
No sale has closed yet, so the Reliance-Sephora-LVMH alignment still holds for now, but it isn’t guaranteed to outlast the current ownership structure.
Fenty’s India journey backs this up. The brand’s first India listing wasn’t through Reliance at all.
It ran on Nykaa’s Cross Border Store, a low-commitment digital shelf that was discontinued before Fenty’s August 2025 relaunch, an exclusive omnichannel deal with Reliance spanning more than 50 stores across 16 cities on day one.
Kapoor doesn’t think of the switch as a deliberate strategic upgrade.
“The Cross Border Store listing may simply have underperformed on its own terms, without much marketing support behind it,” he said, adding that there is no clear evidence that Reliance stole the brand away.
Devangshu Dutta, founder of the research firm Third Eyesight, said celebrity backing only buys a brand little room.
“When a company or an investor buys into an early-stage celebrity brand, they are acquiring instant brand equity which acts as a top-of-the-funnel magnet and potentially lower CAC,” he said. “However, the ‘fame premium’ runs out if product and service execution isn’t compelling enough to drive repeat business and customer retention.”
Ownership decides the biggest deals before “competition” even enters the picture, Fenty landed at Reliance’s Sephora because LVMH owns half of each, though that alignment is shakier than it looks, with Jay-Z’s MarcyPen Capital Partners now the leading bidder for LVMH’s Fenty stake.
Beyond ownership, it’s a straight trade-off.
For brands chasing scale, Reliance’s tens of thousands of stores will get you reach. If brands want to chase community, Rare Beauty did by picking Nykaa specifically to tap its affluent, digitally engaged beauty shoppers and build loyalty. Some brands skip the fight altogether, like Birkenstock, which walked into India solo.
The Distribution Gap
Where Reliance doesn’t need an ownership story to make its case is scale. Reliance Retail closed the quarter ended June 2026 with 20,169 stores across 78.4 million square feet, 396 million registered customers, and 568 million transactions in that single quarter, up 46% year on year, according to the company’s Q1 FY27 earnings release. JioMart alone served 5,500 pincodes through its rapid delivery network in the same period.
Nykaa, by comparison, operated 324 physical stores across 105 cities as of its FY26 numbers, with a cumulative customer base of around 42 million, per its own disclosures and Business Standard’s reporting on the company’s results.
“That gap generally buys a brand not just bigger numbers, but reaches into places where a beauty specialist has no reason to be,” Kapoor said. For brands thinking beyond beauty into wellness, gifting, or lifestyle crossovers, he said that scale “is not a nice-to-have. It is the entire argument for choosing Reliance over a beauty-only platform.”
Satish Meena, founder of Datum Intelligence, a research firm, made a similar point on Reliance’s pull with brands weighing an India entry.
“With the kind of strength they have, they can always give a better deal,” he said, referring to Reliance’s ability to commit capital and guarantee scale that a newer entrant typically cannot promise on its own. He pointed to Reliance’s existing retail relationships, including Marks & Spencer, as part of the track record that makes brands comfortable signing with the group.
Experts say over the past two to three years, Nykaa has been the more prolific launch platform for major international beauty brands, while Reliance has had greater strength in international luxury and fashion.
According to experts, Nykaa reported more than 70 luxury-brand additions over the last three years, including names such as NARS, Prada Beauty, La Prairie, Chanel Beauty, Armani Beauty and Maison Margiela. Reliance, meanwhile, has built a luxury portfolio spanning Valentino, Balenciaga, Bottega Veneta, Tiffany & Co., Burberry and others, and most recently brought SKIMS to India. Reliance’s public disclosures do not provide a comparable 2–3-year count of new international brand entries.
Reliance is arguably a major gateway for international luxury/fashion, but calling it the default gateway for international brands overall is too broad.
Where Nykaa Still Wins
Reliance’s advantage on raw numbers doesn’t fully explain why Nykaa keeps landing brands too.
Nykaa built its beauty audience before it built its stores, using tutorials and curated storytelling to create what Kapoor called “a beauty-literate customer base that arrives already primed to trust the platform’s recommendations.”
That specialism is what pulled in Rare Beauty. Nykaa’s June 2026 launch made the brand available through its website, app, and 30 stores nationwide, and came from a company reporting its highest quarterly profit since listing at the time, per its own disclosures.
In a company statement announcing the launch, Anchit Nayar, Nykaa Beauty’s executive director and CEO, said the brand fit a “new generation of highly informed and globally engaged consumers seeking elevated brand experiences.” Rare Beauty’s chief executive, Scott Friedman, said in the same announcement that India was “a very important market” for the brand, citing Nykaa’s beauty community in the country as the reason to partner with it specifically.
Nykaa has run a similar playbook before. Chanel strengthened its India fragrance and beauty presence on Nykaa in 2025, Obagi Medical entered India through the platform specifically for its clinically driven skincare positioning, and Estee Lauder’s incubation arm has run its India beauty programme, Beauty and You, with Nykaa as lead partner every year since 2022.
Dutta pointed to Kay Beauty, Nykaa’s own celebrity line with actor Katrina Kaif, as an example of why platform fit matters as much as platform size. Contrasting it with 82°E, actor Deepika Padukone’s skincare brand on Tira, he said Kay Beauty had two advantages: it was priced for a much larger audience, and it had “Nykaa’s active participation across channels for merchandising and visibility.”
Not The Only Door
Reliance’s pull is real, but it isn’t the only route into India.
Reliance benefits from international-brand partnerships through retail economics, distribution and, in some cases, ownership or joint-venture economics. The potential conflict emerges because Reliance can simultaneously act as a brand’s market-entry partner and control substantial retail and digital routes to consumers. Public filings, however, do not establish that Reliance uses this position to disadvantage partner brands or competing retailers.
Meena pointed to Birkenstock, which entered by opening its own stores rather than partnering with either platform. Birkenstock and similar labels operate as single-brand retail; they can use India’s foreign direct investment rules to set up shop directly, bypassing the need for a local partner altogether.
“If the brands think that they have enough pull in the market and they can bring customers, they are opening these stores without any partnership,” Meena said. He added that most global brands take the partner route anyway because India, for many of them, is still a small share of global sales, and testing the market with an established partner for a few years is lower risk than building from scratch.
Kapoor flagged one risk worth watching no matter which partner a brand picks. Exclusive deals give a retailer more control. But Tira has also started building its own private-label products, including a colour cosmetics line, and sells them in the same stores as the global brands it distributes.
“A retailer can be a brand’s distribution partner and, on an adjacent shelf, its competitor, at the same time,” he said, a tension he noted that Nykaa’s marketplace model, without a comparable private label push against premium brands, does not carry in the same way.
For brands already tied to Reliance through ownership, like Fenty, there isn’t much of a decision to make. For everyone else, Nykaa signing Rare Beauty and Reliance signing SKIMS within weeks of each other shows this fight for celebrity founders in India is far from over.
(Published in The Core)
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August 1, 2026
Two decades ago, the team at the Naandi Foundation turned tribal farmers in a remote Andhra valley into some of the world’s best-paid coffee growers. Araku Coffee now sells in Paris, and the best of it goes for thousands of rupees a kilogram. Now the same team is trying to do it again — this time with everyday vegetables. Their company, Urban Farms Co., works with regenerative farmers and sells their produce on apps like Blinkit and Zepto. The bet is that what worked for premium coffee can work for staples too. But vegetables aren’t coffee. They’re cheap, everyday, and something people buy all the time. Can this really scale, and does it actually leave farmers better off?
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June 30, 2026
Vaeshnavi Kasthuril, MINT
30 June 2026, Mumbai
Advent International-backed Modenik Lifestyle Pvt. Ltd is doubling down on its portfolio of legacy innerwear brands, planning to scale each label into a sizeable business rather than rely on a single flagship brand.
“Each of the brands must grow big enough to be called a company of its own,” Shekhar Tewari, chief executive and executive director, told Mint.
The company has four brands: premium women’s innerwear label Enamor, value brand Slimz, mass-premium men’s label Dixcy Scott, and premium men’s innerwear brand Levi’s. “These brands are very strong in their respective segments. They complement each other rather than compete,” Tewari said.
Levi’s Innerwear is priced between ₹250 and ₹550, Dixcy Scott and Slimz between ₹100 and ₹350, while Enamor’s products start at ₹500 and go beyond ₹2,500.
The strategy comes as India’s innerwear market, particularly women’s lingerie, has become one of the country’s most fiercely contested apparel categories, with established retailers and digital-first brands vying for market share.
Modenik’s focus on innerwear deepened after private equity firm Advent brought Enamor and Dixcy together under Modenik Lifestyle, following its acquisition of Enamor from Gokaldas Exports in 2019.
Both brands had expanded into adjacent categories such as athleisure, loungewear, sleepwear and outerwear, but struggled to keep pace with rising competition from fashion retailers and digital-first brands. The company has since exited much of its outerwear portfolio, taking a revenue hit.
“We took a conscious hit on the top line because we wanted to become a focused innerwear company,” Tewari said. “If you’re trying to be everything to everyone, you end up not being known for anything. We wanted consumers to think of us first when they think of innerwear.”
Revenue has remained largely flat at around ₹1,200 crore over the past three years, though losses have narrowed sharply. FY25 revenue stood at ₹1,224 crore, while net loss halved to ₹24.8 crore from ₹50.8 crore a year earlier.
Modenik aims to outpace the industry’s single-digit growth by increasing branded penetration in women’s innerwear, expanding its premium portfolio and adding exclusive store network, expected to cross 100 outlets in the near term.
The company sees significant headroom in women’s innerwear, where it estimates the market at more than ₹20,000 crore, but organised brands account for only ₹3,000-4,000 crore. It expects formalization, premiumization and product innovation to accelerate brand adoption.
According to Devangshu Dutta, chief executive of retail consultancy Third Eyesight, the market’s increasing fragmentation makes a multi-brand strategy more effective.
“You can’t have one brand stretching across multiple segments. The product has to be different, pricing strategies are different, the messaging and the distribution channel mix also varies depending on the consumer segment you’re trying to target,” he said.
According to industry estimates, India’s innerwear market is valued at over ₹90,000 crore (about $10.9 billion) and is expected to grow at a 6-7% compound annual growth rate (CAGR) over the next decade.
Advantages and avenues
Tewari believes Modenik has structural advantages over many digital-first rivals. Unlike online-first brands that typically outsource manufacturing, the company controls product development and manufacturing while leveraging decades-old relationships with distributors, department stores, exclusive brand outlets and multi-brand retailers.
“Those capabilities have been built over decades. They cannot be replicated overnight,” he said.
The company is also expanding across channels. Enamor is available through 6,000-7,000 multi-brand outlets, nearly 80 exclusive stores, department stores, including Shoppers Stop, Lifestyle, Central and Pantaloons, besides online marketplaces and quick commerce platforms. E-commerce contributes over 30% of Enamor’s revenue.
Although digital commerce is growing rapidly, Tewari believes physical retail will continue to play a critical role in the category.
“Innerwear is a category that requires understanding of fit, size and functionality. Consumers still want to touch, feel and try products before making the switch from unbranded to branded,” he said.
Rather than pursuing acquisitions, the company plans to unlock growth from its existing portfolio.
The strategy comes as competition in India’s innerwear market is intensifying. Page Industries dominates through Jockey, while Reliance Retail, which houses brands such as Clovia, Marks & Spencer and Hunkemöller, acquired digital-first lingerie platform Zivame, and added premium lingerie brand amanté. Aditya Birla Fashion and Retail has expanded Van Heusen Innerwear, while Trent has strengthened its innerwear offering through its private label brands at Westside and Zudio. New-age brands such as Shyaway, Bummer and Nykd by Nykaa have also stepped up investments in their products.
(Published in MINT)
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June 22, 2026
Sharleen D’souza & Shivani Shinde, Business Standard
Mumbai, 21 June 2026
Online beauty marketplaces Reliance Retail Ventures’ Tira and Nykaa have a common mantra: growing in-house brands. Successful brand acquisitions and margin growth seem to fuel the push.
“With private labels, margins are better. It also helps both companies plug the gap in the market which other brands are not present in,” Devangshu Dutta, chief executive officer (CEO) of Third Eyesight, told Business Standard. Within in-house brands, products need some investment in research and development (R&D), he explained.
Harish Bijoor, brand and business strategy consultant at Harish Bijoor Consults, said that margins are better for platforms with in-house brands.“Typically most companies are getting insular. The idea is to own brands and own the profits from those brands. When you are a marketplace, you put in effort for other brands, this strategy helps marketplaces lock in on profits instead of losing out to other brands, which sell on the platform,” he said.
At the 49th annual general meeting of Reliance Industries (RIL) on Friday, Isha Ambani, executive director of Reliance Retail Ventures Ltd, and non-executive director of RIL, had laid out plans for Tira. “We will scale our own brands to consumers across India and beyond, ensuring Indian beauty prod-
ucts stand proudly alongside the world’s leading global giants.”
Its in-house brands include Puraveda, Pahadi Local, haircare brand Anomaly, which was recently acquired from actress Priyanka Chopra Jonas, and skincare and make-up brand Akind, which it co-created with Mira Rajput Kapoor. Its portfolio also includes Nails Our Way and Dream Immerse Play.
Ambani’s statement had come a day after Nykaa’s management had also hinted at expanding its in-house brands on its investor day on Thursday. The platform, operated by FSN E-Commerce Ventures, outlined an ambitious road map to become an over $5 billion beauty and lifestyle business.
The growth of Nykaa’s “House of Brands” is expected to be significant. The management aims to be the largest house of brands business in India by financial year 2030 (FY30). Management has guided toward a net sale value (NSV) compounded annual growth rate (CAGR) of 30 per cent over FY26-30, taking the NSV from Rs. 1,700 crore in FY26 to Rs. 5,000 crore by FY30.
The “House of Nykaa” GMV grew over 65 per cent in FY26, with an improvement in profitability. In a report on the company’s focus on in-house brands business, Motilal Oswal said, “House of Brands is expected to grow faster than the core marketplace business and become a meaningfully larger contributor to group revenues and profits by FY30. We believe profit contribution is expected to increase disproportionately, given the higher gross margins, stronger pricing control, and lower dependence on third-party brands.”
Nykaa’s platform creates a structural incubation advantage, it said. “Fashion today serves about 300,000 styles across categories, while customer discovery increasingly happens through content, personalisation, and creator-led commerce. This allows the company to identify emerging brands and categories early, before allocating capital behind them,” the report added.
As of the fourth quarter of financial year (FY26), “House of Nykaa” had 12 brands across Beauty and Fashion categories at various growth stages, and two successful acquisitions of Dot & Key and Earth Rhythm. Dot & Key has grown 13 times over the last three years, while Kay Beauty has grown three times over this period, said the company. During the Q4FY26 results, the company had said that the strong performance of “House of Nykaa” had impacted margins positively. P Ganesh, chief financial officer, FSN E-Commerce while explaining the margin growth said, “…with gross margin improving by 132 basis points
in FY26, led by strong performance of House of Nykaa and improved service income across businesses.”
For FY26, “House of Nykaa” delivered a strong Rs. 3,176 crore of GMV. “That’s an about 50 per cent year-on-year increase. Served more than 17 million consumers and expanded distribution beyond online as well to 150,000 GT doors. As a reminder, this unit includes brands across beauty and fashion, seven brands in Beauty and in Fashion five brands, with an increased focus on one in particular, which is Nykd,” said Adwaita Nayar, executive director, cofounder and chief executive officer, “House of Nykaa Brands”, during the fourth quarter results.
(Published in Business Standard)
