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August 9, 2024
Manu Balachandran, Forbes India
9 August 2024
If it hadn’t been for a kind manager at Canara Bank in Malappuram district of Kerala, Shaju Thomas would have probably continued being a journalist.
It was around 2005, and Thomas had wanted a loan of ₹10 lakh from the bank, the only SME (small and medium enterprise) branch in his district, to keep his entrepreneurial venture going. The manager, impressed by the 26-year-old’s perseverance, finally decided to take a gamble on him, even though his predecessor had thought otherwise.
“It was God’s intervention,” Thomas says about that time. “If it weren’t for that money, Popees wouldn’t have existed today.” Today, Thomas runs Popees Baby Care, a business that rakes in well over ₹100 crore a year and has become one of Kerala’s best-known brands in a little over two decades. The company produces everything from clothes to soaps and diapers, retailing them through 70 exclusive outlets and some 8,000 other retail outlets across the country.
Three other stores, all in the Middle East, are being readied this year, which will see Popees go head-to-head with some of the world’s leading baby care brands in malls across Dubai, Abu Dhabi and Sharjah. “I am a believer in Indian cotton being the best,” Thomas tells Forbes India from his office in Thiruvali in Kerala. “Indian manufacturing is also the best. That gives me the confidence. I am obsessed with quality, and that’s at the centre of everything we do. Money is only secondary.”
Last year, Popees posted annual revenues of ₹122 crore and is now setting sights on a topline of ₹250 crore by 2025, before growing to ₹1,000 crore by 2027. The brand sells garments between 18,000 kg and 22,000 kg a month and employs over 1,400 people at its two factories in Kerala and Karnataka. “I am in this business not to make huge gains and profits,” says Thomas, managing director of Popees Baby Care. “We are in the business of baby care, and we must be very careful about everything we do because it involves babies. What I want is satisfaction at the end of the day.”
Last year, Thomas and his wife, Linta Jose, acquired a majority stake in Chennai-based publicly traded Archana Software Limited and renamed the company as Popees Cares Limited. Now, the privately held Popees Baby Care will merge with Popees Cares Limited, before raising private placements, as the company targets aggressive growth in the coming years.
“This year, we are not being very aggressive,” Thomas says. “We want to focus on the listing and merger. We also want to premiumise our collections because our customer profiles are changing. There are more premium customers coming into the market. What we are focussed on is an Ebidta margin of between 34 and 38 percent.” Ebitda refers to earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation, and amortisation.
India’s childcare product market is expected to grow between 13 and 14 percent annually to ₹5.4 lakh crore by 2028, with younger parents focusing on branded apparel and consumables, according to a report by Redseer Consultancy. It also helps that India is the world’s most populous country, and has one of the highest birth rates globally, with 16 births per thousand people, almost 1.5 times that of developed countries. A growing Tier II and III market only adds to the potential for companies such as Popees.
“Global brands carry with them the momentum and visibility that has been built over decades, which translates into trust as well as aspirational value,” says Devangshu Dutta, founder and CEO of Third Eyesight. “But in many cases their pricing is higher than what would be affordable for most Indian consumers. Therefore, there is space for Indian companies to create strong brands that address both factors, trust and value.”
Taking the Risk
Thomas has always had an entrepreneurial streak in him and began venturing out on his own after school. Much of that, he says, is hereditary, coming from a family that had been in business, supplying rubber to the likes of MRF. Passionate about photography, Thomas had set up a small studio in Nilambur, his hometown in Kerala that is known for its teak wood, after his schooling.
Simultaneously, he studied economics before going on to finish his diploma in journalism from the Calicut Press Club in 2000. “Nobody wanted to study economics back then,” Thomas says. “Now it’s in huge demand. But I realised the importance of studying concepts such as scarcity, demand, and supply, now.”
After his graduation in journalism, Thomas picked up work with the Malayalam newspaper, Mangalam, and was soon posted to the hills of Wayanad. Around the same time, he invested in a baby care shop in Manjeri, a town near Kozhikode in Kerala. “I knew there was potential in the sector,” Thomas says.
Being an investor made him aware of the nuances involved in the baby care segment. To begin with, there were no brands, and clothes were often brought in bulk from garment manufacturing units and sold in the state for as little as ₹5. “Very often, these clothes would come in big cartons with naphthalene balls and smelled of sulfur,” Thomas says. “And regardless of that, they sold like hot cakes. Sometimes, people would come from hospitals after childbirth, pick up these clothes, and make the newborn wear them.”
That’s when Thomas realised the massive underlying opportunity in manufacturing good quality, branded clothes for children. “There were big brands for everybody except kids,” Thomas says. He soon packed his bags and went off to Tirupur in Tamil Nadu, India’s then-thriving garment manufacturing capital, to understand how he could venture into the business. With him, he also carried a few pieces of child wear that he had sourced from friends abroad, as a reference for the quality of the product that he was looking to make.
“I was thinking both domestic and international,” Thomas says. But Tirupur was something of a rude shock. Thomas found himself in a market near the railway station, with tiny shops, that had their stitching units outside, from where clothes were dispatched to various states under different labels. “When I enquired with them, they asked me if I wanted to sell domestic or international,” Thomas says. “If it was domestic, I had to buy from there. If it was international, I had to have a minimum order quantity. It was the first time I had heard of that concept.”
But Thomas wasn’t startled. Instead, he found a supplier, who would meet his demand for quality, and soon began working with a minimum order quantity, which is usually the minimum number of units a business is willing to sell to a customer in a single order. He also turned down an offer to join a television news channel, IndiaVision, much to the disdain of his family who had wanted him to remain a journalist.
Starting his own business also came with its own set of challenges. For one, in an era when customers didn’t bother about branded clothes for their kids, and when cheaper alternatives were easily available, Thomas’ products were significantly expensive. He could only sell for ₹60 what was otherwise available at ₹6.
“People in the Malabar region have a mindset to help others,” Thomas says. “Shops in the region started keeping my products. That gave me confidence.” Thomas also realised that he needed to set up a factory in Kerala if he had to make timely deliveries as business was slowly picking up steam, and shipments from Tirupur took time.
Saviour at the Bank
Setting up a small factory was no cheap affair. His family had already been opposed to the idea of doing business, which meant Thomas now had to turn to banks to raise capital. “I made a project report, and submitted it to the bank,” Thomas says. It was a branch where his father, a businessman, had a loan limit of ₹1 crore. “I wanted ₹10 lakh. But the manager wasn’t convinced by my business plan. He asked me ‘why don’t you start a curry powder business’ since people always want food. I told him babies are born every day and clothes for them were essential too.”
But his plea fell on deaf ears and was finally sanctioned a loan for ₹1 lakh without collateral. With his personal savings of another ₹4 lakh, he bought machines from Chennai. “All I knew was that if I set out to do something, I will complete it,” Thomas says. He soon set up a small factory, combining a few rooms in Thirunelly in Kerala. The idea was that the raw material would come from Tirupur, and the workforce in Kerala would do the final stitching before it was dispatched.
Thomas, however, was still desperate for working capital to keep the business running. It was around this time that a new manager had come to the branch and Thomas would visit him every day to pitch his business. “I used to tell him about my ambitions,” Thomas says. “I was particular about cleanliness and having everything in order and would invite him to my factory.” Finally, after much persuasion, the manager visited the factory and was quite impressed. “Within two days, he added another ₹9 lakh to my loan, and that’s how I started.,” Thomas says. “If that hadn’t happened, I would have shut down.”
With the additional funds, Thomas soon began expanding and selling products across Kerala. By 2005, Thomas was married, and his wife also joined him in the business, helping design products. His background in journalism also helped, as he began putting advertorials in evening newspapers about the importance of buying high-quality kids’ wear. By 2010, Popees changed its logo, a turning point in its growth trajectory. That splendid run lasted until 2019, Thomas says, when Popees would only be able to meet 70 percent of its demand and had already been distributing in markets including Punjab and New Delhi.
It was around this time that Thomas began toying with the idea of its retail stores. “My cycle was very long,” Thomas says. “Once you reach a certain turnover, you need to reduce your time. That’s how I thought of my showroom. Until then they were sold in other retail outlets.” The yarn for Popees clothes comes from organic cotton farmers in Ahmedabad, and the manufacturing is done in Tirupur, based on designs given by Popees. Only the final assembly and last round of stitching is done in its factory.
“I was scared to foray into retail,” Thomas says, “My business was already at about ₹74 crore, and I was worried if stores would stop taking my products. With floods in Kerala and Nipah virus in Kozhikode, there was uncertainty already in the market.”
Still, Thomas took the plunge and set up a proto store outside the company’s headquarters. That was a success, with customers flocking to the store and buying in bulk, with the store generating ₹5 lakh in sales. In 2019, Popees opened its first retail outlet in a 1,500 sq ft showroom in Kochi, before starting in Trivandrum and Bengaluru.
But Covid-19 came as a dampener. In early 2020, Thomas had almost finalised a deal with a private equity (PE) major to raise ₹100 crore for a 26 percent stake sale. The due diligence had been completed, and everything seemed on track before the PE firm pulled out after uncertainties about the future. Thomas had also met actor Aishwarya Rai Bachchan to bring her on board as the brand ambassador for Popees.
With Covid-19 shutting down operations, Popees turned to manufacturing masks and clothes for children, all given for free in Kerala during the pandemic. Simultaneously, though, it went on an expansion spree with its retail outlets going from some six stores to over 30 in two years. Today, the company has 70 stores, 35 of which are franchise-invested, company-operated while the others are franchise-owned, franchise-operated. Twenty more stores are expected to be completed this year, with the company gearing up for a launch in the UK and Australia, apart from the UAE.
There is also a focus on omni-channel distribution, with Thomas saying that as much as 30 percent of his clientele chooses to buy products online. The company already sells on ecommerce platforms. Today, it has the capacity to make 5 lakh garments monthly.
Alongside, it has moved to manufacturing everything from baby oil and soap to baby wipes and fabric wash. The product range includes toys, baby soap, body wash, shampoo, lotions, and towels, among others, although a significant share of the sales still come from clothes. “I have three children, and much of what we did was also keeping them in mind,” Thomas says.
That’s why he prefers not to give discounts on products, instead focusing entirely on the quality. “I am obsessed with product and quality,” Thomas says. “We can also provide discounts after raising our markups significantly. But we don’t want such high margins.” The company has now hired a new designer in Bengaluru to bring in a premium collection, which Thomas says, will put Popees in a different league in the next few years.
“We don’t want a lot of money,” Thomas says. “We didn’t have children for a few years after marriage. People are praying and waiting for children. So, you have a responsibility to give good products. If you give good products, they will always come.”
“While the large proportion of those are born to families in low-income segments, there is still a substantial number born to households that are middle and upper income,” adds Dutta of Third Eyesight. “Also, as incomes are growing and the size of families is reducing, the budget available per baby is climbing, which is obviously a strong driver of market growth.”
All that means, for Thomas, the baby steps are now complete. It’s time for the sprint, and the 47-year-old is all set for that.
(Published in Forbes India)
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August 9, 2024
Sagar Malviya and Rica Bhattacharyya, Economic Times
9 August 2024, Mumbai
Reliance Industries Ltd. reduced its workforce by 42,000, or nearly 11%, in FY24, in what is being seen as an outcome of a cost-efficiency drive and reduced hiring, especially in its retail segment which also saw store closures and slower expansion.
The employee strength at the country’s largest company by market value, stood at 347,362 in FY24 compared with 389,414 a year ago. The intake of new recruits was slashed by more than a third to 171,116, according to its latest annual report.
“The new lines of businesses (at Reliance) have matured now and have significant support from digital initiatives. Now they are at a stage to better manage the operations with optimum strength,” said an analyst with a leading broking firm, requesting not to be named. “It doesn’t mean that the numbers (of headcount) won’t increase when new business opportunities emerge and strategy changes. They understand very well how to drive cost management and efficiency.”
Most of the job cuts were in its retail business, whose 207,552 employees last fiscal accounted for about 60% of RIL’s total employee strength. The number was 245,581 in FY23.
“Overall voluntary separations in FY24 are lower than FY23. The retail industry typically has a high employee turnover rate, especially in store operations,” RIL said in the report, adding that its employee benefits expense increased by 3% year-on-year to Rs 25,699 crore. In FY23, it had gone up by 33%.
In FY23, Reliance Retail expanded its physical store network, adding more than 3,300 new stores to take the total store count at the end of the year to 18,040. In FY24, the store count stood at 18,836–a net addition of some 800 after factoring in unviable store closures.
Last year, RIL’s online wholesale format JioMart aligned its operations with Metro Cash and Carry, which it acquired. With the addition of Metro’s permanent workforce of 3,500 employees, there was an overlap of roles, both in the backend and online sales operations.
Experts said many of the large conglomerates are rebadging some of the front-end service functions to third-party rolls.
“Many companies in the retail sector have been getting people off their own roles and appointing staffing companies for a leaner structure and efficient management. This may reflect as a drop in headcount (on the company reports) but need not necessarily be loss of jobs,” said Lohit Bhatia, president of workforce management at Quess Corp. “This could include functions such as security guards at the store level, facility management, logistics, picking and packing, etc. That apart, digitisation and tech advancement is also leading to some job roles being redundant across sectors.”
India’s retail sales expansion slowed to 4% last year after a surge in spending across segments—from clothes to cars—in the post-pandemic period, triggered by revenge shopping. Reliance’s retail division, however, grew 18% in sales to Rs 3,06,848 crore.
“Focus on store productivity usually happens in cycles; we have seen consumers unleash their spending post pandemic, which led to retailers expanding their network or square footage. However, if some of the stores are unviable, then management teams are now highly objective, even ruthless, and will shut stores,” said Devangshu Dutta, founder of retail consulting firm Third Eyesight. “In addition, any company planning to list would like to have healthy and lean operations, although we cannot pin-point it to Reliance in this case.”
Another analyst, who did not wish to be named, said, “Reliance’s annual report reveals that the group, spanning petrochemicals, telecom, and retail, has moved beyond its core investment phase and is now poised to reap substantial benefits from operating leverage, efficiency gains, and investments in technology and talent.”
(Published in Economic Times)
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July 28, 2024
Writankar Mukherjee, Economic Times
Kolkata, 28 July 2024
Top retail chains such as Reliance Retail, Shoppers Stop and Spencer’s Retail are facing a prolonged slowdown in consumption, pushing them to exit unprofitable markets, raise debt and control costs.
India’s largest retailer Reliance Retail shuttered 249 stores in the three months ended June. The company is also going slow on expansion, opening 331 new stores in the quarter compared to 470-800 stores opened every quarter in FY22, FY23 and FY24. The closures mean the retail business of Reliance Industries made 82 net new store additions last quarter–the lowest in 15 quarters.
Spencer’s Retail has decided to completely exit North and South India markets by closing 49 stores in the National Capital Region (NCR), Andhra Pradesh and Telangana. The step will erase Rs 490 crore of annual revenue, but the company is hopeful it will improve profitability.
Shoppers Stop chief executive officer Kavindra Mishra told investors last week that it may have to defer a few store openings this fiscal due to regulatory and other issues. The company will also borrow Rs 100 crore for expansion with demand remaining soft.
Meanwhile, V-Mart Retail has closed 22 stores in the first six months of 2024, as per its latest investor presentation.
“Pruning underperforming locations is a natural reaction during times of demand stress,” said Devangshu Dutta, CEO of retail sector consulting firm Third Eyesight.
Pure Economics
“Demand forecasting can never be perfect due to a lag between demand assessment and supply. Retailers now try to do away with underperforming stores at the bottom of the pile quickly. Earlier there were prestige issues in shutting down stores, but now it’s acceptable industry practice and pure economics,” said Third Eyesight’s Dutta.
Analysts say most retailers expanded rapidly after the pandemic, banking on pent-up demand and revenge shopping at the time. With demand turning sluggish, the industry is now being forced to take various steps to sustain operations. At Reliance Retail, net profit rose by a modest 4.6% from a year earlier in the June quarter to Rs 2,549 crore while revenue grew 6.6% to Rs 66,260 crore. It was the slowest pace of revenue growth and came after a 9.8% increase in Q4FY24. Net profit and revenue from operations fell sequentially in the June quarter.
Spencer’s Retail CEO Anuj Singh told analysts on Thursday the 49 stores it is closing make up nearly 22% of revenue, but also Rs 56 crore of losses at the regional Ebitda level in North and South India. “They were a drag on the balance sheet. We will now focus on Uttar Pradesh and the East where there is a sizable consumption opportunity with a 250 million population,” he added.
Singh said the store rationalisation exercise and about 35% headcount reduction at corporate offices will reduce overheads from 8% operating cost to 6.3% of total sales. “We now expect to achieve Ebitda breakeven by March 2025 which will give us the option to raise capital,” he said.
Mishra at Shoppers Stop said demand remained subdued last quarter due to fewer wedding dates, long election season with polling dates on weekend, heatwaves, and high level of cumulative inflation. All these factors combined hit growth and volume recovery, except in value fashion and beauty.
More stores shut than opened
In fact, the sustained demand slowdown saw chains like Pantaloons, Spencer’s Retail and Nature’s Basket close more stores than they opened last fiscal. Retailers like V-Mart Retail, W, Aurelia and Titan Eye+ had a higher rate of store closures than openings in the March quarter.
(Published in Economic Times)
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July 20, 2024
Gargi Sarkar, Inc42
20 July 2024
The Indian government’s ban on Chinese apps and products in 2020 saw two massive casualties. Everyone knows about TikTok, but fast fashion brand Shein was equally as big in India four years ago.
But the India setback did not halt Shein’s global momentum, just as it did not stop TikTok from becoming what it is today. Shein became the world’s largest online-only fashion company in 2022.
Valued at a staggering $10 Bn, the brand accounted for nearly one-fifth of the global fast-fashion market in 2022, outpacing giants such as Zara and H&M. To put things in context, Shein was founded in 2008, whereas Zara was incorporated in 1975 and H&M in 1947.
In India, Shein set the market on fire. Launched in India in 2018, the brand was already a major player by 2020, dominating online searches and influencer-led content. But the ban in 2020 meant all that came to a halt.
The Indian government’s ban stemmed from fears of Shein’s Chinese parent company storing or transferring data of Indian customers to China. While the ban itself came under a tense geopolitical climate, one could say that Shein’s exit left a gap in India’s fashion market which D2C brands quickly filled.
Brands such as Urbanic, Twenty Dresses, Cilory, attempted to fill the void but couldn’t quite match Shein’s popularity. Indeed, VCs also backed fast fashion and casual wear startups such as The Souled Store, Virgio, NewMe and others which looked to replicate the Shein formula.
Ecommerce unicorn Meesho has also looked to fill the gap with affordable fashion and a similar content-led sales strategy that worked wonders for Shein.
While many of these brands have grown in scale over the past four years, none of them — at least so far — have quite replicated the magic of Shein and how quickly it disrupted the market.
And that’s arguably why Shein’s re-entry into India through a partnership with Reliance Retail is a big deal.
Shein joins the Mukesh Ambani-led conglomerate’s exclusive portfolio of over 50 brands, including Silk Feet, Jivers, Xlerate, Feet Up, Dhuni by Avaasa, Riva, John Player Select, Kidlyboo, and Altair. Besides this, Reliance Retail has similar deals with designer labels such as Kenzo, Y3, Marc Jacobs, Coach, Steve Madden, Kate Spade, among others.
It’s clear why Shein has looked to re-enter India, where the fast fashion industry is projected to reach a size of $30 Bn by FY23, as per a Redseer report. The overall fashion segment grew at a modest 6% YoY in FY24, whereas the fast fashion subsegment surged by up to 40% in the same period. Now, Shein is back to grab a large chunk of the market once again, though there’s definitely a lot different about this Shein.
Reliance Punches Shein’s Ticket To India
The first thing that we need to note is that Shein is not back as a standalone entity, but its products will be available on Reliance Retail’s apps and physical stores. Shein is not operating business in India — Reliance is said to be bringing in former Meta director Manish Chopra to lead the brand.
Shein’s parent entity will receive a licence fee as a share of profits generated solely within India. The operations will be managed by a company wholly owned by Reliance Retail. Crucially, all data and the app itself will be hosted and stored within India, ensuring that Shein has no access to or control over this data.
These are some of the key factors behind Shein’s comeback to India being approved by the government nearly one year ago.
Reliance Retail is set to launch the Chinese fast-fashion label Shein within the coming weeks. Further, to diversify its supply chain and promote domestic industries, Shein reportedly will be sourcing goods from India for its global operation in the Middle East and other markets.
More than anything else, fast fashion brands and indeed other some of the more premium brands need to worry about the Reliance factor. Shein’s brand name and Reliance’s massive resource base are a deadly combo.
Reliance Retail’s fashion ecommerce app Ajio directly competes with Myntra, Nykaa Fashion, Meesho, Amazon India, Flipkart, Tata Cliq, and other platforms. From a distribution point of view, Ajio will be the exclusive storefront for Shein, and exclusivity is a big deal in fashion ecommerce.
Ajio commands around 30% market share based on monthly active users (MAUs), data sourced from AllianceBernstein shows.
Flipkart Group’s Myntra maintains the highest market share in terms of active users, surpassing 50%. However, the report notes a decrease in transaction frequency, with Myntra’s GMV growing only 12% in FY23 compared to 35% in FY22.
“Shein’s re-entry may have a somewhat negative impact on Nykaa Fashion, as Nykaa primarily targets the premium fashion segment. In contrast, Myntra caters to both the mass and premium fashion markets and already has strong brand recognition in the fashion industry. Therefore, the impact on Myntra might be mild, whereas Nykaa Fashion could feel more significant effects,” Karan Taurani, SVP, at Elara Capital said.
He added that Shein is part of a broader strategy by Reliance Retail to expand its portfolio of brands. In that sense, Shein is just another addition to its portfolio.
A Myntra executive admitted to Inc42 that Ajio has an edge when it comes to exclusivity, but added that Myntra has also introduced Gen Z-focussed features which are gaining fast traction. Myntra’s focus on in-house brands or private labels is paying off, however, at the same time, the company is also looking to snap up more exclusive brand partnerships.
Should D2C Brands Worry?
One thing that Ajio cannot afford to do is give Shein more prominence. Fashion ecommerce marketplaces are quick to see gaps in terms of sales of particular brands and look to woo them to their side. In this regard, Shein will be competing with a number of D2C brands as well as international labels in fast fashion.
As per Inc42 data, between 2018 and 2023, D2C fashion brands captured almost 93% of the total funding raised in the Indian fashion ecommerce space.
The Myntra executive quoted above believes that Shein will definitely disrupt D2C fashion brands in India as many of them target the Gen Z audience, but they are also looking to protect margins and break into the premium segment.
The D2C landscape in fashion includes the likes of Andamen, House Of Rare, Bombay Shirt Company, Snitch, Damensch, The Souled Store among others. And there are houses of brands such as Mensa Brands, TMRW and others which combined have dozens of brands across categories in fashion. It’s not easy to stand out, and Shein will have to fight for its space on the aisles.
Most of these brands are looking to widen their net margins by adding premium products. Premiumisation is a major thesis among Indian D2C brands right now as they realise many of them are targeting a very limited cream of the market.
On the other hand, Shein has built its reputation on affordability. So is Shein actually directly competing with these players? Market experts believe that Shein is not successful just because of its pricing, but its use of data.
“Brands with the right product and high-quality service should attract customers who are not price-sensitive. A price-oriented brand is not a major threat; the real risk is if your product fails to keep up with market trends. Fashion-driven brands could take your business away if your product quality and service do not meet customer expectations. However, if your product is trendy, the quality is high, and your service is good, you should be safe in retaining customers who are not focused on price,” Devangshu Dutta, founder and CEO of Third Eyesight, said.
Those in the industry do believe that one brand cannot conquer the fashion market. That simply does not happen with the fashion industry, which is why there is so much depth in the market. Shein’s success will lead to the emergence of more D2C brands that look to mimic the data-led, trend-first model.
“The potential of the Indian market is evident, and it’s becoming increasingly exciting. This means that many companies will emerge in this category to serve this customer base. It validates the hypothesis we had two and a half years ago: the Indian consumer is evolving, and fashion should evolve along with them. From that perspective, Shein’s entry justifies and validates our hypothesis,” the founder of a Bengaluru-based GenZ-focussed fashion brand said.
Good brands always emerge from intense competitive churn, and Indian brands have the potential to go global if they hit it big. “Competing against Shein and building a successful business will open new opportunities for us and strengthen our execution and agility,” the founded quoted above added.
Is Shein Ready For Second Innings?
Now, coming back to Shein, it remains to be seen if it will be able to gain popularity like its first stint in India. One must remember that Shein tried to make a comeback in India in 2021 after the government’s ban through ecommerce giant Amazon, but the brand supposedly did not get much traction.
“I think the case of visibility is different when comparing Amazon and Reliance Retail. Through Reliance Retail, the visibility could be much higher compared to Amazon because Reliance Retail already has a very wide portfolio of fashion brands, including more than 25-30 luxury brands across various categories. It’s all about creating visibility, generating buzz, and going to market together in terms of marketing efforts. Reliance has a very strong omnichannel presence, both online and offline,” Elara Capital’s Taurani said.
While Amazon is, of course, a large ecommerce phenomenon, the platform is not a primary port-of-call for online fashion shoppers. This is why Shein could potentially perform better with Reliance Retail.
“We have to wait and see how Shein performs in India. We will need to observe how this unfolds to comment on its visibility and performance, both online and offline. In marketplaces, brands compete daily, and Shein’s strength has always been its designs. We’ll have to closely watch how Reliance leverages this strength,” an industry analyst said.
(Published on Inc42)
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July 8, 2024
Sharleen D’Souza, Business Standard
Mumbai, 7 July 2024
In 2023, after more than two years of development and testing, Mondelez India launched a version of Bournvita that delivers about half the recommended daily allowance of key micronutrients for children, including iron, iodine, and zinc, as well as vitamins A, C and D. All this while having 15 per cent less added sugar.
“Prior to this and around two years ago we also introduced Bournvita 50 per cent less sugar variant to provide an option for consumers. We have made adaptations to our portfolio products like Bournvita biscuits, which now have 15 per cent less sugar, and our most loved Oreo chocolate variant has also seen a 5 per cent decrease in sugar content,” the company said in an email.
This drive is not confined to Mondelez. Other multinational companies, too, such as Coca-Cola, PepsiCo, and Nestle India, have been working on bringing down the sugar, salt, and sodium content. They could be patting themselves on the back for doing this. Not only has the Indian consumer become more health conscious than ever — with all the talk going around that salt and sugar are two of the monsters in your kitchen (the third being maida) — but also the country’s food regulator has swung into action.
On Saturday, the Food Safety and Standards Authority of India (FSSAI) approved a proposal that information about the sugar, salt and saturated fat content on labels of packaged foods and beverages should be bolder and bigger. “Along with empowering consumers to make healthier choices, the amendment will also contribute towards efforts to combat the rise of noncommunicable diseases and promote public health and wellbeing,” the FSSAI said in a statement.
Earlier, the regulator advised ecommerce platforms to ensure that dairy-, cereal-, and maltbased beverage mixes were not available under the “health drinks” or “energy drinks” categories. The recommended sugar intake is 20 grams a day for adults and 25 grams a day for those below 18. Not more than 5 to 10 per cent of a person’s total energy intake should come from sugar. Children under two are not supposed to consume any added sugar. However, these guidelines are often breached because people tend to consume packaged foods.
Therefore, experts and activists have been calling for a different labelling, which would announce out loud what lies inside.
Eating right, drinking right
Some multinationals had already been working on reducing the salt and sugar content. For instance, Coca-Cola removed more than 900,000 tonnes of added sugar globally since 2017, and 19 of its top 20 brands offer reduced-sugar or zero-sugar options. In India, Coca-Cola’s Minute Maid Honey Infused drinks offer added dietary fibre for healthy digestion in three flavours.
“In 2022, approximately 68 per cent of our global beverage portfolio contained less than 100 calories per 12-ounce serving (350 ml), with 246 low- or no-sugar options launched,” Coca-Cola India said in a statement to Business Standard.
The company added that it prioritised transparency by placing calorie information on the front of all its packaging worldwide and did not market its products directly to children under 13.
Nestle India joined the FSSAI’s Eat Right movement and signed the pledge to reduce an average of 6 per cent added sugar, 10 per cent salt, and 2.5 per cent fat in its relevant product categories. “The company has achieved these commitments,” it said.
Varun Beverages, PepsiCo’s India bottler, told its investors on a conference call that its gross margins improved significantly, rising by 385 basis points to 56.3 per cent — and sugar had a role to play in it.
“This increase was largely driven by our focus on reducing sugar content and the light-weighting packaging material, incidentally, also meeting our sustainability initiatives along with the benefits from reduced PET prices which contributed to this improvement,” Raj Pal Gandhi, chief financial officer of Varun Beverages, said on the investor call.
Approximately 46 per cent of the company’s reconsolidated sales volumes, he said, came from low-sugar or no-sugar products. The no- or less-sugar trend is working for the company as it optimises its cost structure and enhances its overall efficiency.
“These efforts have had a tangible impact on our financial performance with EBITDA increasing by 23.9 per cent to the level of Rs. 988.76 crore year-on-year, and the Ebitda margin improving by 240 basis points to the level of 22.9 per cent in quarter one of 2024 (January-March),” Gandhi said. Ebitda, a widely accepted benchmark of profitability, is short for earnings before interest, tax, depreciation, and amortisation.
“So, we are developing more and more — Gatorade, we mentioned a new launch which PepsiCo has given us formulation with zero sugar. So, effort is there, and constant effort is there to reduce the sugar content,” Gandhi said. PepsiCo India said in an earlier statement it had initiated trials of a blend of sunflower oil and palmolein oil in certain parts of its portfolio last year, thus becoming one of the few players in the food industry in India to do so.
Rush of junk
Experts say the standards for food and beverages vary across the world and India should have its own. “There should be thresholds for healthy and unhealthy and, in my view, this should be labelled boldly on the front of the pack,” says Arun Gupta, convener, Nutrition Advocacy for Public Interest (NAPi), a think tank.
A report titled The Junk Rush, jointly brought out by the Breastfeeding Promotion Network of India and NAPi, said: “India faces a severe public health crisis of obesity and diabetes.” In 2022, a group of public health experts, consumers, lawyers, and patient groups had called upon the government of India to check the soaring consumption of junk food among the country’s youth.
“Certain countries are more stringent than others. Even global brands have the same product, but the ingredients differ across countries and continents,” says Devangshu Dutta, founder of Third Eyesight. He explains that India still has some road to travel on food safety, alleging that some ingredients benefit companies more — such as by providing a longer shelf life — than the consumer.
“The Indian regulator is still very new to the game. If you look at processed foods, it is a newer market and the regulator needs to pick-up pace,” Dutta says.
On Saturday, the FSSAI picked up pace.
(Published in Business Standard)
