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September 12, 2024
By Richa Naidu and Dhwani Pandya, Reuters
London/Mumbai,12 September 2024
For years, the world’s biggest condom maker Reckitt Benckiser designed products and marketing to lure Indian men to its Durex brand. Now, it is pushing a growth strategy by betting on women and rural consumers.
India last year surpassed China to become the world’s most populous nation, but still fares poorly on the use of contraceptives. India’s government estimates only around 10% of men use condoms and for women, sterilization remains the popular form of contraception.
Social stigma surrounding sex – which some say stems from Victorian social norms established during British colonization – has for decades marginalized female pleasure in the Indian society.
But attitudes are changing and Reckitt is shifting marketing gears to take advantage of an upswing in condom use among Indian women – now a key target audience for Durex.
Around 9.5% of married Indian women cited using condoms during sex by 2021, almost double the use five years earlier, according to latest available government statistics. Among unmarried women, such use more than doubled to 27%.
Reckitt is reformulating products such as lubricants aimed at attracting women consumers, and has new marketing campaigns, Pankaj Duhan, Reckitt’s senior vice president of intimate wellness, told Reuters in an interview.
The Durex lubricants in India will use improved formulations to appeal to women and have been created after performing clinical studies to address concerns females face — 30% of Indian women experience some discomfort when having sex with their partner.
“We want to change this … That is why we are relaunching our lubes portfolio,” said Duhan. “The women tend to become a little bit more underserved consumer groups.”
The India condoms market is currently dominated by Mankind Pharma, which makes Manforce, followed by Reckitt and TTK Healthcare.
CHALLENGES
The British consumer goods firm faces some stiff challenges in its quest to carve out a lucrative slice of the female condom market and rural consumers, primarily with distribution and pricing – two areas industry watchers believe are key to success – but also in coaxing a still-largely conservative rural population to buy its products.
Moreover, competitors are making a pitch to women too, with Durex’s main rival and market leader Manforce tweaking its marketing — a recent ad stars a Bollywood actress talking about benefits of condoms and asking women to “go buy your own.”
“One challenge Reckitt may face is consistency of messaging,” said Devangshu Dutta, head of retail consultancy Third Eyesight, adding the company needs to figure out if it is targeting condoms for health, family planning, or pleasure as there could be different messaging for each type of shopper.
The growth opportunity is compelling – India’s condom market size is merely worth $210 million, compared to China’s $4.1 billion, but is forecast to grow at 7.4% compound annual rate between 2024 and 2030, according to Indian consulting firm 6Wresearch. The global market is worth $11.3 billion.
Growing the market will take some doing though, not least because of India’s vast size and millions of mom-and-pop stores require a widespread distributor network.
Currently, only about 10-15% of Durex’s sales in India come from rural areas, which is far more price sensitive than urban cities.
“Distribution is the big challenge simply because even though most consumer goods companies have made their way to all pincodes in the country, the question is maintaining availability at retail points,” said Dutta of Third Eyesight.
CHIPPING AWAY AT TABOOS
Sex education in the conservative country is also lagging, and there is a vast gulf between awareness and actual use of contraceptives.
Matt Godfrey, executive vice president for Asia Pacific at Monks ad agency, part of S4Capital, said marketing tweaks by the likes of Durex are a welcome change but condom use and sex education need to improve in India.
“There are significant societal and cultural aspects that need to be rapidly shifted to reverse the status quo,” he said.
In the eastern state of Odisha, for example, a small medical store of Sudam Padhan does not prominently display condoms as “people frown upon them”.
In India, it’s men who mostly buy condoms, but some like Pooja, a marketer in Mumbai, are trying to drive change. She made an “awkward” decision to buy condoms herself for the first time this year, saying “when I’m asking for a condom over the counter I am basically putting my health first”.
Still, in a telling sign of the somewhat taboo nature of the topic, the 31-year-old declined to share her last name as she is unmarried and feared societal admonition.
“An open conversation encouraging safe and responsible sex in India has been steadily progressing but needs to be continually supported” by brands including Durex, S4Capital’s Godfrey said.
Like many of its rivals, Reckitt has over the years largely focussed on Indian men, with many ads featuring women wearing skimpy clothes.
Rival Manforce Condoms features former pornstar Sunny Leone in videos, some labelled “EXCLUSIVE UNCENSORED”. Duhan said many of the condom ads “objectified women.”
But that’s changing. Durex earlier this year launched a risqué “Explorers Wanted” lubricants campaign in India which featured sensual shots of nude male body parts.
PRICING PAINS
Pricing is another big challenge, especially in stores in smaller towns and villages which are reluctant to stock condoms and lubes. Duhan said products have to be “extremely cheap” to sell in some rural areas, where many use free government-provided condoms.
Padhan, from the medical store in Odisha, doesn’t stock Durex “because they are costly and there’s no demand for them in rural areas,” and says most sales are of Ustad “Deluxe Condoms” made by a state-run firm.
Ustaad costs just 10 rupees (11 U.S. cents) for a pack of six. A pack of 10 Durex condoms starts retailing at around 250 rupees, with some priced above $6, and a similar pack of Manforce starts at $1.
But the smaller three-condom Durex pack starts retailing around 99 rupees, and Reckitt believes they will sell better in rural India.
“We are starting at the top (and) planning to get down to the rural areas,” Duhan said. “It’s a massive undertaking”.
(Reported and Published by Reuters)
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August 30, 2024
In a startup world, founders are typically creators first while investors see themselves as the monitors. Therefore, conflicts between the two are almost a default feature of a relationship that in effect funds a dream. From ‘off’ chemistry to differences of opinion to what some founders see as shackles on entrepreneurial freedom, the reasons could be any or a mix of all. Watch this discussion, with a mega-panel of intense start-up founders on the one hand and investors with VC funds on the other, addressing the pain points on Cash, Control, Creativity, Chemistry and Culture in a supercharged encounter. Session Anchor, Devangshu Dutta (Founder, Third Eyesight) reflected, “Those who have heard classical music jugalbandi or witnessed jazz musicians jamming will appreciate the creative tension, the give and take that was the thread throughout this discussion, reflecting the reality of the relationship between entrepreneurs and VCs.”
Watch the video
INVESTORS:
Ankita Balotia, VP, Fireside Ventures
Aashish Vanigota, Principal – Investments, IvyCap Ventures Advisors Private Limited
Bhawna Bhatnagar, Co-founder, We Founder Circle
Nitya Agarwal, VP-Investments, 3one4 Capital
Harmanpreet Singh, Founder & Managing Partner, Prath Ventures
Vamshi Reddy, Partner, Kalaari Capital
Zoeb Ali Khan, Vice President, Sauce.vc
D2C FOUNDERS:
Abdus Samad, Founder, Sam & Marshall Eyewear
Akshay Mahendru, Co-Founder & CEO, The Pet Point & Nootie
Malvika Jain, Founder, SEREKO
Nitin Jain, Founder, Indigifts
Puneet Tyagi, Egoss Shoes
Radhika Dang, CEO & Founder, The Good Karma Company
Rahul Aggarwal, Coffeeza
Udit Toshniwal, Founder & Director, The Pant Project
Vaani Chugh, Co-founder & Director, D’chica
Yash Kotak, Co-founder, Bombay Hemp Co.
Yashesh Mukhi, Co-founder, Chupps
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August 19, 2024
Ratna Bhushan, Economic Times
New Delhi, 19 August 2024
Close to a dozen small to mid-sized global cafes and restaurant brands have either entered India in the past two quarters or are in talks with local players at a time when large global chains are seeing sharp decline in same store sales and growth.
Mid-sized global chains are making investments even in a modest range of Rs. 20-30 crore to tap select cities and intend to keep store counts under about 30 to stay profitable on each store. This is in contrast to earlier times when cafes and chains entered India with mega deals and investment plans, executives said.
Belgian bakery Le Pain Quotidien, French patisserie chain Laduree, UK’s JD Wetherspoon and Frank HotDogs are among those to have inked collaborations with Indian partners, while newer homegrown ones such as Harley’s, Paper & Pie, abCoffee and First Coffee are expanding with first-time investors and mid-rung store rollouts.
“A combination of factors is driving this change of newer, smaller launches,” said Devangshu Dutta, chief executive of retail consultancy Third Eyesight. “There are niches the newer chains are addressing as consumers’ choices evolve and get more specific. Also, there’s a broadening of a wealth base in India leading to mid-sized business houses having capability to invest and willingness to try out newer segments,” he said.
With the big-bang launches in food services drying up, there’s been a mushrooming of small deals that is expected to surge.
Bake & Brew, which has inked a master franchise agreement with Belgian bakery chain Le Pain Quotidien to re-enter India, is investing Rs 35 crore in the first year. “We’ll start in metros and may expand to smaller towns later. We also see potential in travel retail, airports and larger train stations,” Annick Van Overstraeten, chief executive of Le Pain Quotidien, told ET. Bake & Brew is backed by the Nalanda group with core business interests in automotive metal parts.
Earlier this month, the French patisserie chain Laduree said it was launching its cafe at Ritz-Carlton, Pune, in collaboration with CK Israni Group which has business interests in home decor and construction. Its Managing Director Chandni Nath Israni said in a statement that the CK Israni group planned to expand Laduree’s presence across other Indian cities.
Experimenting in newer cuisines is also driving the change. “Our decision to expand in India stems from a deep appreciation for variety and a passion for bold flavours. We see great potential in the Indian market,” said Benjamin Attal, founder of US chain Franks Hot Dog.
Smaller and newer homegrown chains, in contrast, are expanding, backed by mid-ticket investors and business houses, many of whom are foraying into food services for the first time.
Last week Brigade Group, a realtor, announced a partnership with specialty coffee chain abCoffee to set up six outlets within Brigade properties.
“We partnered with abCoffee to enhance the F&B offerings at our office parks. abCoffee is able to retrofit into operational buildings without requiring additional water or gas points,” Arvind Rao, vice president – commercial business, Brigade Group, said.
Specialty coffee startup First Coffee plans to open 35 stores by 2024-end “focused on delivery and minimalist store aesthetic,” according to a company statement, to sell flavoured coffees, cold brews and bubble teas.
(Published in Economic Times)
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August 10, 2024
Faizan Haidar, Economic Times
10 Aug 2024, New Delhi
Japanese apparel major Uniqlo’s sales growth in India slipped by more than half to a still-strong 32% last fiscal year while its net profit expanded by 25%.
The Indian unit of Asia’s biggest clothing brand posted a net profit of ₹85.1 crore for the year ended March 2024 with net revenues of ₹824 crore, according to its latest filing with the Registrar of Companies (RoC). Uniqlo India had posted a profit of ₹68.1 crore with sales of ₹625 crore in the previous year. Its on-year revenue growth was 69% in FY23 and 64% in FY22.
Uniqlo opened its first door in the country in September 2019, but lockdowns and other constraints during the Covid-19 pandemic delayed its store expansion plans. At present, it has about 13 outlets in the country. Overall retail sales growth rate across segments such as apparel, footwear and quick service restaurants (QSR) fell year-on-year every month in FY24, reflecting comparatively weaker consumer sentiment.
Last fiscal’s comparatively slower 4-7% growth rate sustained this year as well, with May and June seeing a 3% and 5% rise each, Retailers Association of India (RAI) recently said after a survey of top 100 retailers.
“The market was sluggish for the industry as a whole last year, and that will reflect in practice every brand P&L, whether Indian or international,” said Devangshu Dutta, chief executive of retail sector consultancy Third Eyesight. “However, any brand that is committed to the Indian market as a strategic market for its future growth will take the ups and downs in its stride,” he said.
“Uniqlo’s expansion plans now include store sizes that would be smaller both in the cities it is already present in and in newer cities, which should help it tap into the demand at operating costs that are appropriate to each location,” Dutta said. Inditex Trent, Spanish fast-fashion major Zara’s joint venture with Tata that runs 23 stores in the country, saw its revenue rise 8% to ₹2,775 crore last fiscal, significantly down from 40% growth a year earlier, according to Trent’s annual report. Its net profit fell 8% on year to ₹244 crore.
Over the past decade, global brands Zara and H&M have become market leaders in the fast fashion segment in India.
Uniqlo has said India is one of the most priority markets where consumers are increasingly shifting from ‘fast fashion’ to long-lasting essentials and functional wear. As the world’s second most-populated country, India is an attractive market for apparel brands, especially with youngsters increasingly embracing western-style clothing.
Uniqlo is globally popular for functional basics like T-shirts, jeans and woollen wear, unlike fast-fashion rivals which are associated with designs that move quickly from the catwalk to the showroom.
(Published in Economic Times)
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August 9, 2024
Manu Balachandran, Forbes India
9 August 2024
If it hadn’t been for a kind manager at Canara Bank in Malappuram district of Kerala, Shaju Thomas would have probably continued being a journalist.
It was around 2005, and Thomas had wanted a loan of ₹10 lakh from the bank, the only SME (small and medium enterprise) branch in his district, to keep his entrepreneurial venture going. The manager, impressed by the 26-year-old’s perseverance, finally decided to take a gamble on him, even though his predecessor had thought otherwise.
“It was God’s intervention,” Thomas says about that time. “If it weren’t for that money, Popees wouldn’t have existed today.” Today, Thomas runs Popees Baby Care, a business that rakes in well over ₹100 crore a year and has become one of Kerala’s best-known brands in a little over two decades. The company produces everything from clothes to soaps and diapers, retailing them through 70 exclusive outlets and some 8,000 other retail outlets across the country.
Three other stores, all in the Middle East, are being readied this year, which will see Popees go head-to-head with some of the world’s leading baby care brands in malls across Dubai, Abu Dhabi and Sharjah. “I am a believer in Indian cotton being the best,” Thomas tells Forbes India from his office in Thiruvali in Kerala. “Indian manufacturing is also the best. That gives me the confidence. I am obsessed with quality, and that’s at the centre of everything we do. Money is only secondary.”
Last year, Popees posted annual revenues of ₹122 crore and is now setting sights on a topline of ₹250 crore by 2025, before growing to ₹1,000 crore by 2027. The brand sells garments between 18,000 kg and 22,000 kg a month and employs over 1,400 people at its two factories in Kerala and Karnataka. “I am in this business not to make huge gains and profits,” says Thomas, managing director of Popees Baby Care. “We are in the business of baby care, and we must be very careful about everything we do because it involves babies. What I want is satisfaction at the end of the day.”

Last year, Thomas and his wife, Linta Jose, acquired a majority stake in Chennai-based publicly traded Archana Software Limited and renamed the company as Popees Cares Limited. Now, the privately held Popees Baby Care will merge with Popees Cares Limited, before raising private placements, as the company targets aggressive growth in the coming years.
“This year, we are not being very aggressive,” Thomas says. “We want to focus on the listing and merger. We also want to premiumise our collections because our customer profiles are changing. There are more premium customers coming into the market. What we are focussed on is an Ebidta margin of between 34 and 38 percent.” Ebitda refers to earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation, and amortisation.
India’s childcare product market is expected to grow between 13 and 14 percent annually to ₹5.4 lakh crore by 2028, with younger parents focusing on branded apparel and consumables, according to a report by Redseer Consultancy. It also helps that India is the world’s most populous country, and has one of the highest birth rates globally, with 16 births per thousand people, almost 1.5 times that of developed countries. A growing Tier II and III market only adds to the potential for companies such as Popees.
“Global brands carry with them the momentum and visibility that has been built over decades, which translates into trust as well as aspirational value,” says Devangshu Dutta, founder and CEO of Third Eyesight. “But in many cases their pricing is higher than what would be affordable for most Indian consumers. Therefore, there is space for Indian companies to create strong brands that address both factors, trust and value.”

Taking the Risk
Thomas has always had an entrepreneurial streak in him and began venturing out on his own after school. Much of that, he says, is hereditary, coming from a family that had been in business, supplying rubber to the likes of MRF. Passionate about photography, Thomas had set up a small studio in Nilambur, his hometown in Kerala that is known for its teak wood, after his schooling.
Simultaneously, he studied economics before going on to finish his diploma in journalism from the Calicut Press Club in 2000. “Nobody wanted to study economics back then,” Thomas says. “Now it’s in huge demand. But I realised the importance of studying concepts such as scarcity, demand, and supply, now.”
After his graduation in journalism, Thomas picked up work with the Malayalam newspaper, Mangalam, and was soon posted to the hills of Wayanad. Around the same time, he invested in a baby care shop in Manjeri, a town near Kozhikode in Kerala. “I knew there was potential in the sector,” Thomas says.
Being an investor made him aware of the nuances involved in the baby care segment. To begin with, there were no brands, and clothes were often brought in bulk from garment manufacturing units and sold in the state for as little as ₹5. “Very often, these clothes would come in big cartons with naphthalene balls and smelled of sulfur,” Thomas says. “And regardless of that, they sold like hot cakes. Sometimes, people would come from hospitals after childbirth, pick up these clothes, and make the newborn wear them.”
That’s when Thomas realised the massive underlying opportunity in manufacturing good quality, branded clothes for children. “There were big brands for everybody except kids,” Thomas says. He soon packed his bags and went off to Tirupur in Tamil Nadu, India’s then-thriving garment manufacturing capital, to understand how he could venture into the business. With him, he also carried a few pieces of child wear that he had sourced from friends abroad, as a reference for the quality of the product that he was looking to make.
“I was thinking both domestic and international,” Thomas says. But Tirupur was something of a rude shock. Thomas found himself in a market near the railway station, with tiny shops, that had their stitching units outside, from where clothes were dispatched to various states under different labels. “When I enquired with them, they asked me if I wanted to sell domestic or international,” Thomas says. “If it was domestic, I had to buy from there. If it was international, I had to have a minimum order quantity. It was the first time I had heard of that concept.”
But Thomas wasn’t startled. Instead, he found a supplier, who would meet his demand for quality, and soon began working with a minimum order quantity, which is usually the minimum number of units a business is willing to sell to a customer in a single order. He also turned down an offer to join a television news channel, IndiaVision, much to the disdain of his family who had wanted him to remain a journalist.
Starting his own business also came with its own set of challenges. For one, in an era when customers didn’t bother about branded clothes for their kids, and when cheaper alternatives were easily available, Thomas’ products were significantly expensive. He could only sell for ₹60 what was otherwise available at ₹6.
“People in the Malabar region have a mindset to help others,” Thomas says. “Shops in the region started keeping my products. That gave me confidence.” Thomas also realised that he needed to set up a factory in Kerala if he had to make timely deliveries as business was slowly picking up steam, and shipments from Tirupur took time.
Saviour at the Bank
Setting up a small factory was no cheap affair. His family had already been opposed to the idea of doing business, which meant Thomas now had to turn to banks to raise capital. “I made a project report, and submitted it to the bank,” Thomas says. It was a branch where his father, a businessman, had a loan limit of ₹1 crore. “I wanted ₹10 lakh. But the manager wasn’t convinced by my business plan. He asked me ‘why don’t you start a curry powder business’ since people always want food. I told him babies are born every day and clothes for them were essential too.”
But his plea fell on deaf ears and was finally sanctioned a loan for ₹1 lakh without collateral. With his personal savings of another ₹4 lakh, he bought machines from Chennai. “All I knew was that if I set out to do something, I will complete it,” Thomas says. He soon set up a small factory, combining a few rooms in Thirunelly in Kerala. The idea was that the raw material would come from Tirupur, and the workforce in Kerala would do the final stitching before it was dispatched.
Thomas, however, was still desperate for working capital to keep the business running. It was around this time that a new manager had come to the branch and Thomas would visit him every day to pitch his business. “I used to tell him about my ambitions,” Thomas says. “I was particular about cleanliness and having everything in order and would invite him to my factory.” Finally, after much persuasion, the manager visited the factory and was quite impressed. “Within two days, he added another ₹9 lakh to my loan, and that’s how I started.,” Thomas says. “If that hadn’t happened, I would have shut down.”
With the additional funds, Thomas soon began expanding and selling products across Kerala. By 2005, Thomas was married, and his wife also joined him in the business, helping design products. His background in journalism also helped, as he began putting advertorials in evening newspapers about the importance of buying high-quality kids’ wear. By 2010, Popees changed its logo, a turning point in its growth trajectory. That splendid run lasted until 2019, Thomas says, when Popees would only be able to meet 70 percent of its demand and had already been distributing in markets including Punjab and New Delhi.
It was around this time that Thomas began toying with the idea of its retail stores. “My cycle was very long,” Thomas says. “Once you reach a certain turnover, you need to reduce your time. That’s how I thought of my showroom. Until then they were sold in other retail outlets.” The yarn for Popees clothes comes from organic cotton farmers in Ahmedabad, and the manufacturing is done in Tirupur, based on designs given by Popees. Only the final assembly and last round of stitching is done in its factory.
“I was scared to foray into retail,” Thomas says, “My business was already at about ₹74 crore, and I was worried if stores would stop taking my products. With floods in Kerala and Nipah virus in Kozhikode, there was uncertainty already in the market.”
Still, Thomas took the plunge and set up a proto store outside the company’s headquarters. That was a success, with customers flocking to the store and buying in bulk, with the store generating ₹5 lakh in sales. In 2019, Popees opened its first retail outlet in a 1,500 sq ft showroom in Kochi, before starting in Trivandrum and Bengaluru.
But Covid-19 came as a dampener. In early 2020, Thomas had almost finalised a deal with a private equity (PE) major to raise ₹100 crore for a 26 percent stake sale. The due diligence had been completed, and everything seemed on track before the PE firm pulled out after uncertainties about the future. Thomas had also met actor Aishwarya Rai Bachchan to bring her on board as the brand ambassador for Popees.
With Covid-19 shutting down operations, Popees turned to manufacturing masks and clothes for children, all given for free in Kerala during the pandemic. Simultaneously, though, it went on an expansion spree with its retail outlets going from some six stores to over 30 in two years. Today, the company has 70 stores, 35 of which are franchise-invested, company-operated while the others are franchise-owned, franchise-operated. Twenty more stores are expected to be completed this year, with the company gearing up for a launch in the UK and Australia, apart from the UAE.
There is also a focus on omni-channel distribution, with Thomas saying that as much as 30 percent of his clientele chooses to buy products online. The company already sells on ecommerce platforms. Today, it has the capacity to make 5 lakh garments monthly.
Alongside, it has moved to manufacturing everything from baby oil and soap to baby wipes and fabric wash. The product range includes toys, baby soap, body wash, shampoo, lotions, and towels, among others, although a significant share of the sales still come from clothes. “I have three children, and much of what we did was also keeping them in mind,” Thomas says.
That’s why he prefers not to give discounts on products, instead focusing entirely on the quality. “I am obsessed with product and quality,” Thomas says. “We can also provide discounts after raising our markups significantly. But we don’t want such high margins.” The company has now hired a new designer in Bengaluru to bring in a premium collection, which Thomas says, will put Popees in a different league in the next few years.
“We don’t want a lot of money,” Thomas says. “We didn’t have children for a few years after marriage. People are praying and waiting for children. So, you have a responsibility to give good products. If you give good products, they will always come.”
“While the large proportion of those are born to families in low-income segments, there is still a substantial number born to households that are middle and upper income,” adds Dutta of Third Eyesight. “Also, as incomes are growing and the size of families is reducing, the budget available per baby is climbing, which is obviously a strong driver of market growth.”
All that means, for Thomas, the baby steps are now complete. It’s time for the sprint, and the 47-year-old is all set for that.
(Published in Forbes India)