Move over cars, Japanese and Koreans are now entering your wardrobes

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February 21, 2024

Published in ETPrime, 21 February 2024

Around two years ago, when Delhi-based Debabrata Bhattacherjee decided to explore a new brand for casual wear, he decided to give Uniqlo a try. The 27-year-old was so impressed by the quality that he became a regular customer of the Japanese fashion brand that had set foot in India in 2019.

“What first attracted me was the convenient design of their store, which was very organised and clean. Very Japanese, to say! The shopping experience is very hassle-free and offers a lot of options. Their clothes are very comfortable and the quality is excellent,” said Bhattacherjee, a video producer. Though the brand is costlier than others, he is okay paying the premium.

Bhattacherjee is among the many Indians who have contributed to the rising sales of Uniqlo. Also known to be Asia’s biggest clothing brand, the Japanese company posted a 69% jump in sales in FY23 from FY22, with a net revenue of Rs 624.6 crore and a net profit of Rs 68.38 crore in India.

Uniqlo is among a bunch of Japanese and South Korean brands that have, in the past couple of years, been gaining more space in the lifestyle and beauty product shelves of Indians. Wacoal, MUJI, Innisfree, Sulwhasoo and Amorepacific have been witnessing a relatively quiet but consistent growth in sales in the country.

East Asian portfolio

Indian consumers are not new to the products from these countries. A popular example is automobiles: Suzuki, Hyundai, Toyota and Honda have made millions of Indians mobile. Now, fashion and lifestyle products from East Asia are also now becoming part of Indian households.

Anand Ramanathan, Partner and Leader-Consumer Products and Retail, Deloitte India, said this is because these brands have built a reputation for quality, design and durability — much like their peers in automobiles and engineering.

East Asian lifestyle and beauty brands initially had an influence in the Northeastern states, where the customers are not only ahead of the curve in fashionability but also found resonance with the look of these brands, said Devangshu Dutta, founder and CEO of management consulting firm Third Eyesight. “In due course, K-dramas and K-pop (Korean popular culture) has boosted their expansion across the country. Japan and Korea are highly developed beauty and skincare markets, with customers who are conscious both about their appearance, as well as about the products’ performance. These brands have established brand equity across markets on their quality, innovation, and product development,” he said.

Indians have been enjoying the “Korean wave” or Haalyu, which refers to the global popularity of Korean culture, music, movies, and TV dramas. Ramanathan pointed out that Korean has emerged as the most learnt language among the 13-22 age group in India. Apart from fashion, he said, the cultural impact can be seen in food and jewellery options of Indian Gen Z and millennials.

Well-travelled Indians who have been exposed to these brands find the pricing has “value” implicitly built in, Dutta added.

Companies from these countries also seem to find value in India. A 2023 survey by the Japan Bank for International Cooperation (JBIC) that collected responses from over 500 manufacturers in the island country showed that 48.6% of the companies considered India a key destination for medium-term business growth. Ramanthan cited a report by DPIIT that stated that since 2000, South Korea has invested $5.7 billion in India across various sectors. Recently, South Korea has invested $400 million in India during July 2022 to June 2023.

E-commerce is a driver

Another brand on this list is Japan-based Wacoal. The lingerie maker entered India in 2015 with its first store in Mumbai, and has posted an impressive 3X year-on-year increase over the last eight years, said Pooja Merani, COO of Wacoal India.

Pooja Merani, COO of Wacoal India.

This was because its products have adapted designs that align with the preferences of the Indian market, demonstrating cultural sensitivity, she said. The company measures the physique of approximately 1,000 women and girls between the ages of 4 and 69 every year, said Merani. This has helped it make clothes that suit Indians well. “Prioritising fit and comfort in the offerings, and understanding the diverse body types in India, have likely contributed to customer satisfaction and loyalty,” she said.

South Korean beauty firm Amorepacific, which is the parent company of popular cosmetic brands such as Innisfree and Sulwhasoo, said they are seeing traction in India as the beauty and wellness industry is experiencing robust growth. “There is an increasing awareness and emphasis on skincare, with consumers seeking effective and high-quality products. India has a large and youthful population, and the youth are often early adopters of beauty trends. Korean skincare products, with their trendy packaging, innovative formulations, and youthful image, can resonate well with this demographic,” said Mini Sood Banerjee, Assistant Director and Head of Marketing at Amorepacific Group.

The company had last year signed an agreement with Reliance Retail to sell through its online fashion platform, Tira. Banerjee said 80% of its sales are through e-commerce. “INNISFREE has been engaging with the Indian consumer much more rapidly in the online space.”

Uniqlo attributed its success to its blend of Japanese philosophy with Indian culture — the company started selling kurtas from 2019, when it had entered India through Delhi. A spokesperson credited the brand’s success to the 13 brick-and-mortar stores in India focussing on its “LifeWear” philosophy. “It is simple, high-quality, everyday clothing with a practical sense of beauty that is ingenious in detail. This approach originates from the Japanese values of simplicity, quality and longevity — and we have seen that Indians appreciate the high level of quality of our apparel,” the spokesperson said.

Making in India

These companies have also started production in India, a sign that they find the market promising.

Wacoal started its production in India last year, and is expanding into newer segments. The Uniqlo spokesperson said the company is on track to achieve 30% domestic sourcing. “We are actively growing local suppliers to deliver quality products for our customers. For example, we now work with 17 sewing factories and 6 fabric mills in India.”

Amorepacific Group has found increasing awareness and emphasis on skincare, with consumers seeking effective and high-quality products in India.

Fashion, home textiles and other home products are potentially the first categories where manufacturing within India can be explored, said Third Eyesight’s Dutta. Brands with a large global footprint and established supply chains find it difficult to shift manufacturing bases.

“To make a shift to India, a substantial volume of demand needs to be generated within the country, and brands also need to be actively looking to diversify from their existing supply bases. Fashion brands and retailers with product lines that are relatively less technical or complex, or for which the size of economically viable production base is relatively small, are already looking at manufacturing more products and greater volumes in India,” he said.

Foreign brands have to find the product-market fit to be successful in a country. India being an ethnically diverse market, the product-market fit can be dissimilar across the country. Brands can be successful only if they can address specific segments and build the business accordingly, Dutta added.

Companies like Wacoal said they are mindful of the cultural challenges. Merani pointed out how the lingerie market is predominantly unorganised and has challenges such as limited awareness about proper sizing and cultural taboos. “Overcoming traditional industry norms and promoting accurate sizing awareness remains a persistent hurdle for us. Additionally, addressing diverse body types while ensuring top-notch quality further adds complexity,” she said.

‘Affluent India’

Despite the challenges and the steep pricing, experts said these brands are becoming popular as Indians have more disposable income.

According to a recent Goldman Sachs report that corroborated data using tax filings, bank deposits, credit cards and broadband connections, the affluent Indian consumer cohort has grown at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of over 12% in 2019-23, compared to 1% CAGR in India’s population. Rising retail participation has lifted India market cap over 80%, it pointed out. “The largest beneficiary of rising ‘affluent India’ are categories such as leisure, jewellery, out-of-home food and healthcare, and premium brands within all categories,” it added.

The willingness of Indian customers to pay a premium price for better quality products depends on factors such as product category, brand reputation, target demographic and economic conditions, said Amorepacific’s Sood.

Mini Sood Banerjee, Assistant Director and Head of Marketing at Amorepacific Group.

For Japanese brands, the shift in India from electronics and automobiles to clothing and lifestyle is driven by strategic diversification and changing consumer trends. Japanese companies are leveraging globalisation and the increasing exposure of Indian consumers to international lifestyles, said Wacoal’s Merani.

“Economic factors, such as India’s growing middle-class population and economic growth, contribute to the attractiveness of the market. Thorough market research and understanding of local preferences, along with collaborations and partnerships, enable Japanese brands to align their products with the specific demands of the Indian consumer market. Overall, this shift reflects the adaptability and strategic decision-making of Japanese brands, indicating their confidence in the potential for success in diverse sectors beyond automobiles,” she said.

The Indian market still has legs.

The COO of Wacoal India said the lingerie market, for one, would grow by a CAGR of 9.3%, especially as more young women join the workforce.

India presents a great opportunity as a strong growing market. Even domestic brands are competing for “share-of-mind, shelf-space and share-of-wallet, and some larger Indian corporates are also backing their own brands and retail formats with strong investments,” added Third Eyesight’s Dutta.

If the Japanese and Korean brands want to survive, they would need to keep innovating and adapting to consumer preference. For Indians, meanwhile, it is “ache din” when it comes to shopping.

India’s consumption landscape: Consumers acquire a taste for premium as mass market lags

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January 26, 2024

Sagar Malviya, Economic Times

Mumbai, 26 January 2024

Hindustan Unilever and United Spirits together present a study in contrasts that seemingly reinforces the current purchasing trends in India’s consumption sector. At the country’s biggest consumer-goods and alco-bev companies, respectively, premium brands are flying off the shelves, but mass-priced products remain relative stragglers.

“At the premium and luxury ends, they (consumers) are continuing to spend, continuing to experiment, continuing to do repertoire drinking, especially experimenting with the white spirits, drinking at home,” Hina Nagarajan, managing director at Diageo-controlled United Spirits, told investors in a post-earnings call. “However, Middle India, or the value-oriented consumer, is actually cutting down on the number of occasions (to spend) to manage their money.”

The maker of Johnnie Walker and Smirnoff posted a 12.4% volume decline in the mass-priced segments, while pricier prestige and above categories saw a 10% growth during the December quarter. The Indian unit of the world’s biggest distiller said it expects this trend in purchasing behaviour to continue over the next couple of quarters.

At Hindustan Unilever, the country’s biggest consumer company by both sales and market value, the story isn’t vastly different. The FMCG bellwether said its premium portfolio expanded more than two-and-a-half times the mass segment over the past few quarters.

This trend was seen even in the rural areas that make up nearly half the annual sales at the maker of Dove soaps and Glow & Lovely skin creams. Pricier products now constitute a third of Hindustan Unilever’s total sales. “In rural areas, there are people who can afford and spend money, and hence, the premium portfolio in has also grown well – like it has grown in urban parts of the business,” Rohit Jawa, managing director, Hindustan Unilever, told investors after the December-quarter earnings. “We have always seen that essential and discretionary are the two realities of (the) rural (market).”

Incomes & Business Cycles

This dichotomy in purchase decisions appears to be a function of income disparity and is market-agnostic, experts believe. For instance, rural India that accounts for nearly 40% of the overall FMCG market saw a noticeable drop in demand for a year due to inflation and erratic monsoons. Cities, meanwhile, appear to be at the vanguard of overall consumption demand across categories as urban incomes, typically linked to organised sectors of the economy, are more resilient to business cycles and promise better protection against broader inflationary pressures. “Even if the consuming class, mainly upper and middle class, saw an impact on their incomes, it is still not significant to affect their discretionary spends,” said Devangshu Dutta, founder of Third Eyesight, a strategy consulting firm. “There is a buffer available for higher income growth and it will hit them later in any economic downturn. At present, it is felt in the lower-income segment.”

Over the past decade and a half, consumer companies expanded sales by pushing both pricier and affordable products. Companies still have budget-friendly options in their portfolio, but lower incomes, especially in rural areas, appear to have dented purchasing power at the budget end of the market. “The real pressure on the wallet is on the lower side, where we do see upgrades are not happening from country liquor to either the popular category or the lower end of prestige,” said Nagarajan at United Spirits.

(Published in Economic Times)

Q-comm goes beyond grocery; all set to challenge e-comm dominance?

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January 8, 2024

Yash Bhatia, Afaqs

8 January 2024

In the 10th episode of Zerodha co-founder Nikhil Kamath’s YouTube podcast series, WTF, Aadit Palicha, co-founder, Zepto, says that consumer goods are the fastest-growing category for its quick commerce business. Initially, quick commerce brands just focussed on serving impulse grocery needs, but now they have changed their way to serve regular planned purchases too.

Major players like Zepto, Blinkit, Swiggy Instamart, and BBNow are expanding their offerings in gifting, makeup, ready-to-eat, baby care, pet care, meat, poultry and more to cater to a wider range of consumer needs and preferences.

Through our interviews with brands like Bombay Shaving Company, Bevzilla and Plum, it is evident that Q-comm business contributes approximately 10-25% of online revenue for different brands.

Also, according to a report by Redseer, the Q-comm market is expected to reach almost $5.5 billion by 2025. The report highlights, that these platforms can up their game by going beyond just grocery and extend their offerings to other consumables, electronics, newspapers and more.

It shows that quick commerce players would focus on other categories to reach this milestone. But, are brands ready for it? If yes, how is their strategy different for this model?

Aditi Handa, co-founder of The Baker’s Dozen, an artisanal bakery, states, “In our category, once the customers figure out a product in the physical store, then they tend to buy again on the quick commerce platforms rather than visiting a store. It works well in our category, as there is no need to touch and feel the product.”

Baker’s Dozen makes 60-65% of its online sales on Q-comm platforms.

Devangshu Dutta, founder of Third Eyesight says that quick commerce has spread across various product categories and he believes, “It is driven more by buzz than customer needs. Unless we meet a core demand with a large consumer market, there’s no sustained road to profit.”

Deepti Karthik, fractional CMO, SuperBottoms, says, “In the diaper category, there are a lot of unplanned purchases. We target customers who’re buying other products, and eventually get trails from them.”

She points out that a lot of gifting happens in the quick commerce segment. “Gift packs can be a great solution our brand can leverage.”

She predicts that for the baby-care brand, quick commerce will contribute 3-5% of overall revenue, led by gifting as a category.

Apart from the reduced delivery time, is there a reason that customers are opting to shop on quick commerce platforms?

Handa answers that two factors work in favour of Q-comm platforms: discounts and convenience. “As these players are expanding their portfolio, customers will find more reasons to go on these apps.”

Is the quick commerce business driven by celebrations?

India is renowned for its diverse festivities. Quick commerce platforms capitalise on this by selling event-related or topical assortments. For instance, they offer flutes for Krishna Jayanti, Ganesha idols for Ganesh Chaturthi, Christmas decorations for the holiday, decorative items for Diwali, and gold and silver coins for Dhanteras.

These platforms are also curating special web and app pages for such occasions, even for regional festivals like Chauth Puja. In 2023, Blinkit curated a specific page dedicated to the wedding season.

Karthik states, “The major business of this sector is driven by consumables and FMCG products. On special occasions, e-commerce brands used to curate specific products, which Q-commerce is now doing. The market share of the other modes is now being taken by the quick commerce players on festivals. That’s why every e-commerce is looking to launch its version of Q-commerce, like Amazon Fresh by Amazon, and BBnow by Big Basket.”

Handa believes differently and states that quick commerce is not taking up the market share of any other modes. “Currently we’re buying more than what we need. Quick commerce is creating some new markets, and people are spending more money as it is easy to spend now.”

Will Q-commerce take over e-commerce?

As the country embraces digital commerce, the battle between e-commerce and Q-commerce is intensifying. While e-commerce has a well-established presence with a vast user base, Q-commerce offers unmatched speed and efficiency. As Q-commerce players foray into other categories, will they take over e-commerce?

Ritesh Ghosal, former chief of marketing at Croma believes that Q-comm will not replace e-commerce. He says that Q-commerce will only be a successful mode for urgently needed products like trimmers, headphones etc.

Handa predicts, “In our category, Q-commerce will replace e-commerce purely based on better service. The only advantage that e-commerce holds is a variety of stock keeping units (SKUs). Like, some products will have a presence in e-commerce only like English Cheddar cheese, it will not be there in Q-comm, a customer can only get it through e-commerce.”

She says that quick commerce also provides a fast way to experiment with new products.

Kartik, says e-commerce will always be at the main stage for the brand and believes Q-commerce will be an incremental business for them.

She has observed that in quick commerce if a product gets listed, it starts to sell faster and gets a quick start as compared to the e-commerce route.

Challenges

While the benefits of quick commerce are evident for customers, these players in the backend face a lot of challenges including warehousing, labour expenses, and, most importantly, the orders are low-value, therefore the margins are less.

Balasubramanian Narayanan, vice president, of Teamlease services points out that the consumer preferences and buying patterns in the quick commerce segment evolve rapidly, making data collection and analysis a crucial aspect.

“Balancing data collection with user privacy is a key challenge. The data insights can help to create personalised experiences, predict demands, and improve operational efficiency. But this can be a challenge in this mode.”

Handa says in quick commerce, the biggest challenge is the stock keeping unit (SKU) mix, SKU selection is critical.

“Brands like Amazon, and Flipkart allow a plethora of SKUs, while quick commerce just allows a limited number, due to limitation of warehouse space and delivery time. The SKU selection by the brand becomes a critical aspect.”

In the physical realm, shelf presence plays an important role in reaching customers, in the online world, optimising the online presence is crucial to get the customers’ attention. She highlights that in quick commerce, the fight is to be at the top of the search bar.

“To be at the top, the brand should generate organic sales, secondly it’s about keyword bidding. A keyword that would search customers to find the product from the brand. The brand pays quick commerce players for this.”

Ghosal also agrees with this and states, “In the Q-commerce arena, most searches are by category rather than by brand. The brands have to tick more boxes in terms of categories/searches so that customers tend to look at them.”

(With additional inputs: Ruchika Jha)

(Published in Afaqs)

HUL Sets Sights On Customer Of Tomorrow, Beauty-Personal Care Split

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December 4, 2023

Sharleen Dsouza, Mumbai

3 December 2023

Hindustan Unilever (HUL)’s decision to split its beauty and personal care division and place a renewed focus on digital has been driven by its aim to serve the consumer of tomorrow, say analysts and brand experts.

HUL Managing Director and Chief Executive Officer Rohit Jawa is looking to make the company ‘future ready’, and while these bets are not for the short-term, they will eventually pay off as the Indian consumer is young and digital friendly, they add.

“Rohit Jawa comes with digital experience and he is preparing to steer HUL into serving the future consumer who is more digital friendly,” said Sachin Bobade, vice president at brokerage firm Dolat Capital.

On Friday, the consumer major also announced that it had named Arun Neelakantan its chief digital officer effective January 1. Neelakantan, who the company said was brought in to unlock growth opportunities by leveraging India’s digital ecosystem, will also join the company’s management
committee. Neelakantan is the first chief digital officer of the company who will be part of the company’s management committee.

Brand expert Devangshu Dutta, founder of business management consultant Third Eyesight, said that HUL was a traditional company but had never shied away from experimenting with different models of customer engagement.

“The profile of the younger Indian consumer is more digital friendly. This move won’t fundamentally shift the company’s business in the short term, but it is creating a connect with the younger consumer group which will be the mainstay for the future,” said Dutta.

On Friday, Jawa had said: “As we embark on our next phase of growth and transformation, we will combine our scale and discipline with innovation and agility to serve our consumers even better, and build a future-fit business,” adding that beauty and personal care continued to be a source of value creation for the company.

(Published in Business Standard)

Nykaa CEO pads up against RIL’s push in beauty market

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August 5, 2023

Viveat Susan Pinto, Financial Express

August 5, 2023

Two of the country’s best-known retailers, Nykaa and Reliance Retail, are now clashing head-on for a bigger share of the online beauty and personal care (BPC) market. Signs of this became apparent on Thursday, when Nykaa said that its CEO Falguni Nayar would “guide the marketing function directly” as part of its larger initiative to strengthen its marketing leadership and management.

The announcement, according to industry experts, came amid senior-level exits at the company and increasing competition from Reliance Retail’s Tira, which was launched in April this year as an online-cum-offline beauty destination.

Nykaa, which is estimated to have a share of 38% of the $1.3 billion (Rs 10,920 crore) online BPC market in India, says that it is evolving into a multi-dimensional business.

“Leadership roles are being augmented with an eye on strategic realignment, cost rationalisation and growing complexity of the business,” Nykaa said in a statement.

While Reliance Retail’s Tira is smaller in comparison to Nykaa, it is beginning to chip away at the heels of its bigger rival, industry sources said, within months of launch.

For instance, in four months since going live in April, the Tira app has over 1.7 million downloads and is eyeing a number of around 10 million in the next few months, persons in the know have told FE. It intends to do this on the back of aggressive tie-ups with local and international brands and positioning itself as an aspirational yet affordable beauty player. A mail sent to Reliance Retail elicited no response till the time of going to press.

The Nykaa beauty app has over 40 million downloads, but has been around longer than Tira, executives in the know said. Discounts on both platforms (Tira and Nykaa) range from 10-50% for various brands with BOGO (buy one get one) offers, virtual try-ons, blogs, tutorials, tips, recommendations and videos being part of the online experience. Tira also has a unique fragrance finder, which helps consumers match fragrances closest to their preferences.

“For beauty retailers, the game will increasingly be omnichannel,” says Devangshu Dutta, chief executive officer at Gurugram-based retail consultancy Third Eyesight. “While the consumer set is young for beauty brands, convenience and access, whether online or offline, is key for sustainable growth,” he says.

Nykaa has doubled its beauty store count from 72 outlets in FY21 to 145 stores in FY23, the company said in a recent investor call. Plans include adding another 50 outlets in FY24 and taking total store count to 150 stores, according to a report by brokerage firm JM Financial.

Reliance Retail also intends to expand its Tira footprint by setting up stores in suburbs such as Andheri in Mumbai besides BKC in Bandra and Infinity Mall in Malad, which are up and running. The Malad store, for instance, was launched just last week. Over the next few months, satellite cities such as Thane and locations such as Pune, Bangalore, Chennai and Hyderabad are likely to see Tira stores, informed sources said, with more outlets lined up in tier-I and II cities, including Delhi-NCR.

Reliance Retail is also laying special emphasis on the design of its Tira stores, with the flagship 4,300-sq ft outlet in Bandra Kurla Complex, for instance, put together by London-headquartered studio called Dalziel & Pow. The studio is best-known for its work for brands such as Marks & Spencer, Toyota, Volkswagen and Jaguar Land Rover and has designed the BKC Tira stores as a go-to destination for beauty shoppers.

(Published in Financial Express)