Written By Christina Moniz

D2C brands take the offline route to widen reach

Direct-to-consumer (D2C) brands are fluffing up the Indian mattress category with promises of lower prices, mattress-in-a-box convenience, 10-year warranty and 100-day trials. In a market that is predominantly unorganised, startups such as Wakefit, The Sleep Company, SleepyCat and Flo are aspiring to establish themselves as better alternatives to legacy brands such as Kurlon and Sleepwell, with most of them looking at the offline retail route too, to boost sales.

According to a Research and Markets report, while India’s overall mattress market has grown at a CAGR of over 11% in the last five years, the organised industry has grown at 17%. The mattress category in India is worth `12,000-13,000 crore; of this the organised segment commands 40% share.

New-age mattress brands are able to deliver products at lower price points by taking control of the entire consumer journey – from product discovery to post-sales support. Therefore, these D2C brands save big on distributor and retail margins, says Devangshu Dutta, CEO, Third Eyesight. These savings go towards compensating for higher customer acquisition costs and logistics, he observes. The elimination of the middlemen means that customers get their products at 30-35% less than what traditional players offer.

However, these digital-native companies are aware that they operate in a touch-and-feel category, which is why many offer a 100-day trial period. Priyanka Salot, co-founder, The Sleep Company, says that the product return rate is only 2-3%, and the returned mattresses are donated to charities but never resold. The Sleep Company, which entered the market a little over two years ago, is eyeing a turnover of `1,000 crore in the next five years, and has plans to launch its first offline store in a few months.

Online players also save on logistics, says Chaitanya Ramalingegowda, co-founder and director at Wakefit. “We implemented the roll-pack technology that allows the mattress to fit into a compact box. This lets us ship more products at a time,” he says. Wakefit has only two factories—one in north India and the other in south India—as opposed to older players with 10-12 factories across the country, he points out. The company hopes to close FY22 with a turnover of 630 crore, up from197 crore in FY20. It has one offline experience centre in Bengaluru, with plans to launch 10 more across five cities soon; these centres will not only be experiential, but also double up as booking/ retail sales outlets.

Offline boost

Rajat Wahi, partner, Deloitte India, points out that these new-age mattress brands must establish deeper offline distribution to expand reach. “After all, more than 90% of retail is offline in India,” he notes.

This is why D2C brands are not only taking the offline route, but also foraying into other segments like furniture and sleepwear. Kabir Siddiq, founder and CEO of SleepyCat, says the brand has plans to launch around four experience centres, and aims to become a one-stop shop for all sleep and comfort solutions, offering comforters, pillows and even bedding for pets.

Is the proliferation of D2C players giving legacy brands sleepless nights? Mohanraj J, CEO, Duroflex, says it has been akin to a “wake-up call”. He says the company has poured in investments into the D2C segment in the past few years, and now even has a completely online brand called Sleepyhead, catering to the millennial consumers. “Until recently, about 10% of our company’s growth was from online sales, but we expect that number to change to 30-35% this year,” he adds.

Despite the influx of new-age players, he maintains that Duroflex has doubled its growth in the past two years, with traditional retail registering 25-30% annual growth.

Source: financialexpress

Written By Vaishnavi Gupta

D2C brands are taking the traditional retail route to scale up

Analysts say that the move to offline retail makes sense for digital-first brands in categories where experiencing the product is an important driver for purchase

While brands across categories made a beeline for e-commerce during the pandemic, physical retail earned prominence among direct-to-consumer (D2C) brands. Melorra, Plum, Pee Safe and Libas, among others, have been building their offline presence over the past year.

The total retail market in India is estimated to be worth Rs 63 lakh crore, of which 95% buying happens through offline formats, according to Devangshu Dutta, founder, Third Eyesight.

Having started as an online-only brand in 2013, Pee Safe launched its first exclusive store in India in February, 2021. The personal hygiene brand currently operates a store each in Gurugram, Bengaluru and Ahmedabad; and plans to launch 50 offline stores in the next 12 months. “There is a strong demand for personal hygiene and wellness products in the offline market. Hence, opening exclusive outlets is a crucial element of our growth strategy,” says Srijana Bagaria, co-founder and director, Pee Safe. These exclusive brand outlets (EBOs) will be launched through the franchise-owned and franchise-operated (FOFO) model.

Online ethnic wear brand Libas, meanwhile, unveiled two brick-and-mortar stores in New Delhi in September, 2021. The brand has an ambitious target of 200 more stores by 2025 in malls and high streets across metro and tier II cities. A click-and-collect facility will be operational soon, says Sidhant Keshwani, managing director, Libas. “We are aiming for our offline market share to be 25% in the coming two years,” he adds.

The brand offers a range of wedding and occasion wear, as well as ready-to-stitch fabrics exclusively in its offline stores. Soon, it also plans to foray into the kidswear and menswear categories, as well as home décor.

Beauty brand Plum, which has been retailing online since 2014, launched its first store in Mumbai in October, 2021. Plum’s founder and CEO, Shankar Prasad, says the goal is to take the store count to 50 by 2023, and for EBOs to contribute “10-20% of our total sales in two-three years”.

Jewellery brand Melorra extended its presence offline back in December, 2020. “We have been growing 200% year-on-year; we expect to post even stronger numbers this year with the addition of offline stores. We are looking to touch $1 billion in revenue in five years,” says the company’s founder and CEO, Saroja Yeramilli.

A good step?

Analysts say that the move to offline retail makes sense for digital-first brands in categories where experiencing the product is an important driver for purchase. “D2C players have so far done a great job of owning the consumer journey which is largely online. They now see that for the next wave of growth and penetration, they need good representation in a larger set of touchpoints,” says Rachit Mathur, partner and MD, BCG.

However, online is likely to remain the primary revenue stream for these digital-first brands. “Brands such as Lenskart, Nykaa and FirstCry have done a great job in driving strong retail presence and viable productivity, but continue to have a higher bias of online sales,” Mathur notes.

D2C brands could perhaps try a mix of formats for an offline foray, from EBOs to a presence in departmental stores, or even small SIS (shop-in-shop) counters in shopping centres. But brands would need to be cognisant of the fact that consumers behave differently depending on the shopping environment they are in. Hence, the interface, service offering, and even the product mix may have to be tweaked. “Simply bringing in technology into an offline environment just because you are an online-first brand may do nothing to enhance the consumer experience, and may even detract from it,” Dutta says.

Source: financialexpress

Written By RASHMI PRATAP

A handwritten note on a piece of recycled paper plus a hand-made trinket or pen is what one receives along with every order from Gwalior-based iTokri, an online store of handcrafted fabrics, jewellery, paintings and other artworks. Just like its little free gift, all the products in iTokri’s catalogue are unique and especially crafted for the brand, which has been doubling its revenues every year since launch in 2012. The small town retailer has achieved all this without following the typical e-commerce template of being a marketplace.

iTokri online is India’s only crafts and artwork retailer with its own inventory of handmade artisanal products ranging from Punjab’s phulkari dupattas and Gujarat’s bandhani sarees to Andhra’s ikkat handloom fabrics and Odisha’s pattachitra paintings. It sources products including jewellery, dress materials and household items from nearly 500 artisans and NGOs across India. iTokri founders Jia and Nitin Pamnani believe in taking away the burden of sale from artisans and allowing them to focus on what they are best at – their craft.

The inventory model

“Artisans don’t have the financial strength to hold on to the inventory after production. If we put the onus of holding inventory on the artisan and tell them to dispatch the products as per demand, we cannot succeed. We buy from artisans in bulk, stock goods at our warehouse and courier orders from here,” says Pamnani, a documentary maker who left Delhi in 2010 to start the sustainable business in his home town Gwalior with Jia.

“Some of my friends were in the art and crafts sector. They suggested that an e-commerce platform could work from anywhere in the country. Since the availability of traditional art and craft products was still limited to government emporia and exhibitions those days, I decided to take the plunge,” he says.

Set up with an investment of Rs 50 lakh in 2012, iTokri has now expanded its reach to the nooks and corners of the country both for sourcing as well as sales in the last 8 years.

In the case of Pamnani, warehousing is not a big cost as his family already owned one when he started the business.

But Dutta says an inventory model offers some advantages. “The biggest benefit is that you have the complete control over curating a product as well as its production and branding. This helps build a consistent customer experience,” Dutta adds.

Besides, when products are not generic, there are significant margin advantages to retailers. A case in point is itokri masks, the largest variety of which can be found on the online shopping site. From hand-woven handspun Eri silk natural-dyed masks to Lucknowi chikankari and ajrakh print cotton masks, the retailer has them all.

Award winning tie and dye craftsman Ahmed Badshah Miyan at his workshop in Jaipur. His son, Shahnawaz Alam, says during the lockdown, iTokri was the only retailer that did not stop payments to artisans.

“iTokri supported us and made payment for all orders as per schedule so that artists are not impacted.”

Alam and his father, who have been associated with Pamnani since 2012, say that iTokri trusts artisans with designs and colours, not forcing them to deviate from the tradition to meet mass requirements. “We don’t repeat the collection sent to iTokri,” says Alam, who supplies leheriya dupattas and sarees to the retailer.

iTokri also provides the name of the craftsman or organisation below every product detailed on its website, giving them due credit.

t is this exclusivity, moderate pricing and following of the traditional craft processes that has helped iTokri gain a customer base of over 3 lakh across India and overseas.

Nearly 20 percent of these are from the UK, US and Canada and almost one lakh are regular buyers.

Despite its rapid growth, iTokri has not roped in any other investor so far. “We don’t want to go for funding as we are not yet ready for it,” Pamnani says.

It was love for sustainability that brought Pamnani to Gwalior in 2010. And it also helped him keep the business going even when the country was under total lockdown from March 25 till mid-May. During this period too, iTokri’s 8 am e-mailers announcing the collection of the day did not stop.

Source: 30stades

Oil shocks, financial market crashes, localised wars and even medical emergencies like SARS pale when compared to the speed and the scale of the mayhem created by SARS-CoV-2. In recent decades the world has become far more interconnected through travel and trade, so the viral disease – medical and economic – now spreads faster than ever. Airlines carrying business and leisure-travellers have also quickly carried the virus. Businesses benefitting from lower costs and global scale are today infected deeply due to the concentration of manufacturing and trade.

A common defensive action worldwide is the lock-down of cities to slow community transmission (something that, ironically, the World Health Organization was denying as late as mid-January). The Indian government implemented a full-scale 3-week national lockdown from March 25. The suddenness of this decision took most businesses by surprise, but quick action to ensure physical distancing was critical.

Clearly consumer businesses are hit hard. If we stay home, many “needs” disappear; among them entertainment, eating out, and buying products related to socializing. Even grocery shopping drops; when you’re not strolling through the supermarket, the attention is focussed on “needs”, not “wants”. A travel ban means no sales at airport and railway kiosks, but also no commute to the airport and station which, in turn means that the businesses that support taxi drivers’ daily needs are hit.

Responses vary, but cash is king! US retailers have wrangled aid and tax breaks of potentially hundreds of billions of dollars, as part of a US$2 trillion stimulus. A British retailer is filing for administration to avoid threats of legal action, and has asked landlords for a 5-month retail holiday. Several western apparel retailers are cancelling orders, even with plaintive appeals from supplier countries such as Bangladesh and India. In India, large corporate retailers are negotiating rental waivers for the lockdown period or longer. Many retailers are bloated with excess inventory and, with lost weeks of sales, have started cancelling orders with their suppliers citing “force majeure”. Marketing spends have been hit. (As an aside, will “viral marketing” ever be the same?)

On the upside are interesting collaborations and shifts emerging. In the USA, Jo-Ann Stores is supplying fabric and materials to be made up into masks and hospital gowns at retailer Nieman Marcus’ alteration facilities. LVMH is converting its French cosmetics factories into hand sanitizer production units for hospitals, and American distilleries are giving away their alcohol-based solutions. In India, hospitality groups are providing quarantine facilities at their empty hotels. Zomato and Swiggy are partnering to deliver orders booked by both online and offline retailers, who are also partnering between themselves, in an unprecedented wave of coopetition. Ecommerce and home delivery models are getting a totally unexpected boost due to quarantine conditions.

Life-after-lockdown won’t go back to “normal”. People will remain concerned about physical exposure and are unlikely to want to spend long periods of time in crowds, so entertainment venues and restaurants will suffer for several weeks or months even after restrictions are lifted, as will malls and large-format stores where families can spend long periods of time.

The second major concern will be income-insecurity for a large portion of the consuming population. The frequency and value of discretionary purchases – offline and online – will remain subdued for months including entertainment, eating-out and ordering-in, fashion, home and lifestyle products, electronics and durables.

The saving grace is that for a large portion of India, the Dusshera-Deepavali season and weddings provide a huge boost, and that could still float some boats in the second half of this year. Health and wellness related products and services would also benefit, at least in the short term. So 2020 may not be a complete washout.

So, what now?

Retailers and suppliers both need to start seriously questioning whether they are valuable to their customer or a replaceable commodity, and crystallise the value proposition: what is it that the customer values, and why? Business expansion, rationalised in 2009-10, had also started going haywire recently. It is again time to focus on product line viability and store productivity, and be clear-minded about the units to be retained.

Someone once said, never let a good crisis be wasted.

This is a historical turning point. It should be a time of reflection, reinvention, rejuvenation. It would be a shame if we fail to use it to create new life-patterns, social constructs, business models and economic paradigms.

(This article was published in the Financial Express under the headline “As Consumer businesses take a hard hit, time for retailers to reflect and reinvent”. 

Remember the year 2000? After Y2K passed safely, that year some optimistic analysts predicted that India’s modern retail chains would reach 20 per cent market share by 2015. Two years after that supposed watershed, another firm declared that modern retail will be at around that level in 2020 – but wait! – only in the top 9 cities in the country. Don’t hold your breath: India surprises; constantly. As many have noted, “predictions are tough, especially about the future!” What we can do is reflect on some of this year’s developments that could play out over the coming year.

In many minds 2019 may be the Year of the Recession, plagued by discounting, but that demand slowdown has brewing for some time now. However, there’s another under-appreciated factor that has been playing out: while small, independent retailers can flex their business investments with variations in demand, modern retail chains need to spread the business throughout the year in order to meet fixed expenses and to manage margins more consistently.

To reduce dependence on festive demand, retailers like Big Bazaar and Reliance have been inventing shopping events like Sabse Sasta Din (Cheapest Day), Sabse Sachi Sale (Most Authentic Sale), Republic Day / 3-Day sale, Independence Day shopping and more for the last few years. In ecommerce, there’s the Amazon’s Freedom Sale, Prime Day, and Great India Festival, and Flipkart’s Big Billion Day Sale. This year retailers and brands went overboard with Black Friday sale, a shopping-event concept from the 1950s in the USA linked to a harvest celebration marked by European colonisers of North America. (The fact that Black Friday has a totally different connotation in India since the terrorist bombings in Bombay in 1993 seems to have completely escaped the attention of brands, retailers and advertising agencies.) Be that as it may, we can only expect more such invented and imported events to pepper the retail calendar, to drive footfall and sales. The consumer has been successfully converted to a value-seeking man-eater fed on a diet of deals and discounts. With no big-bang economic stimuli domestically and a sputtering global economy, we should just get used to the idea of not fireworks but slow-burning oil lamps and sprinklings of flowers and colour through the year. Retailers will just have to work that much harder to keep the lamps from sputtering.

Ecommerce companies have been in operating for 20 years now, but the Indian consumer still mostly prefers a hands-on experience. The lack of trust is a huge factor, built on the back of inconsistency of products and services. The one segment that has been receiving a lot of love, attention and money this year (and will grow in 2020) is food and grocery, since it is the largest chunk of the consumption basket. Beyond the incumbents – Grofers, Big Basket, MilkBasket and the likes – now Walmart-Flipkart and Amazon are going hard at it, and Reliance has also jumped in. Remember, though, that selling groceries online is as old as the first dot-com boom in India. E-grocers still struggle to create a habit among their customers that would give them regular and remunerative transactions, and they also need to tackle supply-side challenges. Average transactions remain small, demand remains fragmented, and supply chain issues continue to be troublesome. Most e-grocers are ending up depending on a relatively narrow band of consumers in a handful of cities.  The generation that is comfortable with an ever-present screen is not yet large enough to tilt the scales towards non-store shopping and convenience isn’t the biggest driver for the rest, so, for a while it’ll remain a bumpy, painful, unprofitable road.

Where we will see rapid pick-up is social commerce, both in terms of referral networks as well as using social networks to create niche entrepreneurial businesses – 2020 should be a good year for social commerce, including a mix of online platforms, social media apps as well as offline community markets. However, western or East Asia models won’t be replicated as the Indian market is significantly lower in average incomes, and way more fragmented.

As a closing thought, I’ll mention a sector that I’ve been involved with (for far too long): fashion. In the last 8-10 decades, globally fashion has become an industry living off artificially-generated expiry dates. A challenge that I have extended to many in the industry, and this year publicly at a conference: if consumption falls to half in the next five years, and you still have to run a profitable business (obviously!), how would you do it? Plenty of clues lie in India – we epitomise the future consumers; frugal, value-seeking, wanting the latest and the best but not fearful about missing out the newest design, because it will just be there a few weeks later at a discount. If you can crack that customer base and turn a profit, you would be well set for the next decade or so.

(Published as a year-end perspective in the Financial Express.)