Faizan Haider, ET Bureau, 15 March 2023

Value apparel brands are set to grow in India.

The success of Tata Group’s Zudio that sells clothes below Rs 1,500 has prompted Reliance, Shoppers Stop and several global brands to enter the mass-priced retailing segment.

While Reliance Retail is planning to launch a value apparel format, likely to be named ‘Youth’ to compete directly with Tata’s Zudio and Landmark group-owned Max, Shoppers Stop is coming up with a mass-priced brand, internally called InTune, people in the know said.

Aditya Birla Fashion & Retail has been eyeing shoppers in tier-2 and -3 cities with Style Up, a similar format, while affordable French brand Kiabi is in talks with retail space providers and potential partners to enter the India market.

“Although there is a significant concentration of demand in the metro cities and tier-1 cities, these are also hypercompetitive markets. With economic growth spreading into the smaller cities and rising aspirations, especially among young consumers, there is an opportunity for brands to expand into these markets,” said Devangshu Dutta, founder of retail consulting firm Third Eyesight.

“However, keeping price-sensitive segments in mind, companies are creating new labels and brands, rather than pulling down their existing brands’ selling price,” Dutta said.

Trent, the Tata Group company that houses retail brands such as Westside, Zudio and Landmark, had earlier said that while Westside accounted for 70% of its standalone business, Zudio had the potential to outpace the department chain due to the size of the opportunity in the value segment.

“While the value format can offer growth in smaller cities, in metro cities the retailers are trying to target youth through this format. The youth is also aware of the sustainability part and most of these brands are focusing on it,” said Shriram PM Monga, who cofounded retail consultancy firm SRED.

Both Reliance and Shoppers Stop are looking for 6,000-9,000 sq ft space at malls and high street for their new brands, said a person familiar with the development.

Experts said India’s consumption structure was skewed in the past over a narrow base of rich consumers accounting for a large chunk of the market. However, as the economy is broadening across many more cities and the impact is reaching further down the income ladder, the opportunity for value formats and value brands is expanding.

For Lifestyle International, its value brands Max and Easy Buy have already outpaced the department stores by sales, indicating that consumers are increasingly seeking either lower-priced merchandise or opting for global brands such as Zara and H&M for fashion apparel instead of department stores.

(Published in The Economic Times)

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Faizan Haidar, ET Bureau
Jan 18, 2023

Tension has built up between retailers and malls across India, with leading malls planning to increase rentals every year instead of the current arrangement of every three years.

Industry insiders said large retailers are opposing the move given the number of stores they operate. Malls usually sign nine-year agreements with the retailers with a 15% increase in rentals every three years. If rents increase 5% each year, retailers will have to shell out about 17% in three years.

“It does not make any sense because we sign our properties for a long term, which is generally 12-15 years. An annual escalation in rent will not be viable and we would want to not go ahead with such short-term demands,” said a chief executive at a departmental store chain, who did not wish to be identified.

Rajendra Kalkar, president-west at Phoenix Mills, which operates more than half-dozen malls in Mumbai, Pune and Bengaluru, and in some tier-2 cities, said rentals are revised as per the originally agreed terms of the agreement. But in new agreements, the issue of annual rent revision is being negotiated on a case-by-case basis.

Another retailer said on condition of anonymity that brands invest a lot in fit-outs and annual rental hikes will make the business unviable. “A brand has to manage so many stores that annual hikes will lead to a chaotic situation where every month brands will have to keep rental hikes in mind,” said the retailer.

Other malls such as those of DLF, Nexus and Oberoi, Select City Walk and Vegas are also mulling over the issue, said industry executives.

“We have started something like staggered rental so that we can hike the rental every year. However, in the first year. we don’t put much pressure because the brand is trying to settle in. But once they start doing well, we push for a rental hike,” said the director of a leading mall, who did not wish to be identified.

Single-brand retailers said the demand is strong and they may be able to absorb rent inflation, if at all it goes through.

Mall developers said they will push for a 20% rental hike in three years given the inflation and cost of raw materials.

“The cost of everything has gone up and we will have to put it in a fresh condition to sustain. Retailers are doing good and they should not be hesitant in absorbing the hike,” said another mall developer.

India’s top ten listed retailers, including Aditya Birla Fashion & Retail, Shoppers Stop, Jubilant Foodworks and Tata Trent, have together saved more than Rs 1,500 crore in rents over the past two financial years, after negotiating discounts with malls and other landlords for the lockdown period.

“Covid impacted both mall developers and retailers, and mall developers may possibly be trying to recover from those lockdown losses,” said Devangshu Dutta, founder of retail consulting firm Third Eyesight. “Where there’s a dearth of quality retail spaces, well-managed malls may be able to negotiate more strongly for a frequent hike. But both retailers and malls need to come together for a symbiotic solution that works for both.”

Rentals have now returned to pre-Covid levels, as malls have returned to normal business and their tenants are seeing healthy footfall. According to ICRA, rental income reached 80% of pre-Covid levels during 2021-22 and is expected to surpass 2019-20 levels by 4-6% in the current fiscal.

“We have seen double-digit growth and understand that it was an unfavourable time for mall operators during Covid. So during renewal, we may accept rent escalation if we are not able to hold it. However, we don’t expect any adverse impact on our financials,” said Satyen Momaya, CEO of Celio, a French apparel brand.

Rental incomes have improved at a faster pace after the second wave of the pandemic, with recovery at 74% during the second quarter of 2021-22, as against 34% a year ago, and reaching 102% of pre-Covid levels in the second half of the current fiscal, said ICRA.

“Malls are investing heavily in events and every month there are two-three events to ensure footfall. With these initiatives, the mall expects sales to increase and the retailer to pay higher rent,” said a Kolkata-based mall developer, who did not wish to be identified.

Metro AG global chief executive officer Steffen Greubel said the company is at a “very advanced” level of discussions on its India business, suggesting for the first time that it could be looking at an exit from the country soon.

“We are very advanced in the process regarding India and are at a certain maturity level in the process. It’s too early to share any information, but we have discussed it greatly,” Greubel told analysts when asked if he is looking at a possible withdrawal from India and the status of talks. “We are very deep in the (sale) process in India,” he said last week while announcing annual earnings.

The German wholesaler grew its Indian business by 21% to $982 million during the year ended September, as per its latest annual report.

Last month, ET reported that Reliance had agreed in principle to buy Metro AG’s cash-and-carry wholesale India business for ₹4,000-4,500 crore.

Its unit Reliance Retail is already the biggest grocery retailer in the country with over 2,400 stores across formats while Metro operates 31 wholesale stores in India with seven of them on company owned land in prime locations. The company hasn’t publicly stated that it’s looking to leave India. Metro would be the second big international wholesaler retailer to exit India, if this happens. French retailer Carrefour wound up its India business in 2014 after struggling with sales for four years.

Globally, Metro is the world’s fourth-largest retailer by revenue. In India, it doesn’t sell directly to consumers and is an organised wholesaler or cash-and-carry operator that sells merchandise to local kirana stores, hotels and catering firms.

It decided to put the India business on the block as part of a global decision to exit the country due to heightened competition, a tougher regulatory environment and the lack of a level playing field between local and foreign retail companies, industry executives said.

Experts said the difficult European and global economic environment, regulatory restrictions in India, tough competition from domestic Indian groups and thin margins in the B2B business in India may have led Metro to focus on growing its core markets in Europe.

“Though India is, indeed, a long-term strategic market for companies looking at global growth, whether retail or B2B, not every business model from other geographies can be successfully transplanted or rapidly scaled in India, and Metro’s business footprint in India may be far smaller than they may have expected in the two decades of presence here,” said Devangshu Dutta, founder of retail consulting firm Third Eyesight. The choice to be present in different countries is always a dynamic one for global retailers and entry or withdrawal is driven by individual strategies, rather than solely on the merit of the market itself, he said.

“In September, the management board reported on the current status of the audit of strategic options for Metro India,” according to the annual report.

Overseas investment in offline trade has been a tricky issue, despite India allowing 100% foreign direct investment (FDI) in wholesale trade on a cash-and-carry basis. Metro was one of the first companies to enter the segment in India in 2003. Lobby groups representing small Indian retailers have accused overseas retailers of violating FDI rules, which the foreign companies have consistently denied. Some trade lobbies have complained to the government that a few global wholesalers have been flouting FDI rules by selling to consumers directly, which is not allowed as per current regulations.

(Published in The Economic Times)

Faizan Haider, The Economic Times

New Delhi, 5 December 2022

Shoppers Stop is planning to open a value format to attract consumers opting for lower priced brands such as Tata Zudio and Landmark Group’s Max, two officials privy to the launch said.

The idea is to open stores on ty to sustain and the lines of Zudio and Max and capture a larger market especially in smaller towns,” one of them said. “The first store, sizes anywhere between 7,000 8,000 square feet could open in the next three months.”

Shoppers Stop is foraying in to the mass-priced segment after three decades of selling premium apparel and lifestyle merchandise. Experts said India’s consumption structure has been skewed in the past over a narrow base of richer consumers accounting for a large chunk of the overall market. However, as the economy is broadening across many more cities and the impact is reaching further down the income ladder, the opportunity for value-formats and value-brands is expanding.

“Shoppers Stop’s competitors have demonstrated mixed success in the mass segment. and servicing this segment needs merchandising agility to respond to varying customer preferences across markets, as well as the financial ability to sustain and scale,” said Devangshu Dutta, founder of retail consulting firm Third Eyesight. “In the diversity of India’s market, scale alone isn’t enough to guarantee success.”

Shoppers Stop may open first few of its value format stores in tier 2 cities before taking them to metroci ties, people cited above said.

The company did not respond to the email query till press time on Sunday.

“The value format segment is growing and during Covid 19 we have seen consumption increasing in Tier-2 cities,” said Shriram PM Monga, cofounder at retail consultancy firm SRED.

“These cities also have grade A malls now, offering retailers quality space.” Tata Group firm Trent had earlier indicated that Westside accounts for 70% of its standalone business but Zudio, an affordable fast-fashion brand, has the potential to outpace the department chain due to the size of the opportunity in the value segment.

For Lifestyle International, its value brands Max and Easy Buy have already outpaced the department stores by sales – back in 2019 – indicating that consumers are increasingly seeking either lower-priced merchandise or opting for global brands such as Zara and H&M for fashion apparel instead of department stores.

Shoppers Stop has 296 stores spread across 3.8 million square feet, which include 91 department stores, 11 HomeStop home furnishing shops, 139 beauty stores, and 25 airport doors. It is on track to add 12 department stores and 15 beauty stores during this fiscal year.

According to Retailers Association of India (RAI), overall retail sales in October 2002 grew 15% year on year and by 19% when compared to pre- pandemic sales level (October 2019).

(Published in The Economic Times)