Faizan Haider, ET Bureau, 15 March 2023

Value apparel brands are set to grow in India.

The success of Tata Group’s Zudio that sells clothes below Rs 1,500 has prompted Reliance, Shoppers Stop and several global brands to enter the mass-priced retailing segment.

While Reliance Retail is planning to launch a value apparel format, likely to be named ‘Youth’ to compete directly with Tata’s Zudio and Landmark group-owned Max, Shoppers Stop is coming up with a mass-priced brand, internally called InTune, people in the know said.

Aditya Birla Fashion & Retail has been eyeing shoppers in tier-2 and -3 cities with Style Up, a similar format, while affordable French brand Kiabi is in talks with retail space providers and potential partners to enter the India market.

“Although there is a significant concentration of demand in the metro cities and tier-1 cities, these are also hypercompetitive markets. With economic growth spreading into the smaller cities and rising aspirations, especially among young consumers, there is an opportunity for brands to expand into these markets,” said Devangshu Dutta, founder of retail consulting firm Third Eyesight.

“However, keeping price-sensitive segments in mind, companies are creating new labels and brands, rather than pulling down their existing brands’ selling price,” Dutta said.

Trent, the Tata Group company that houses retail brands such as Westside, Zudio and Landmark, had earlier said that while Westside accounted for 70% of its standalone business, Zudio had the potential to outpace the department chain due to the size of the opportunity in the value segment.

“While the value format can offer growth in smaller cities, in metro cities the retailers are trying to target youth through this format. The youth is also aware of the sustainability part and most of these brands are focusing on it,” said Shriram PM Monga, who cofounded retail consultancy firm SRED.

Both Reliance and Shoppers Stop are looking for 6,000-9,000 sq ft space at malls and high street for their new brands, said a person familiar with the development.

Experts said India’s consumption structure was skewed in the past over a narrow base of rich consumers accounting for a large chunk of the market. However, as the economy is broadening across many more cities and the impact is reaching further down the income ladder, the opportunity for value formats and value brands is expanding.

For Lifestyle International, its value brands Max and Easy Buy have already outpaced the department stores by sales, indicating that consumers are increasingly seeking either lower-priced merchandise or opting for global brands such as Zara and H&M for fashion apparel instead of department stores.

(Published in The Economic Times)

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Faizan Haidar, ET Bureau
Jan 18, 2023

Tension has built up between retailers and malls across India, with leading malls planning to increase rentals every year instead of the current arrangement of every three years.

Industry insiders said large retailers are opposing the move given the number of stores they operate. Malls usually sign nine-year agreements with the retailers with a 15% increase in rentals every three years. If rents increase 5% each year, retailers will have to shell out about 17% in three years.

“It does not make any sense because we sign our properties for a long term, which is generally 12-15 years. An annual escalation in rent will not be viable and we would want to not go ahead with such short-term demands,” said a chief executive at a departmental store chain, who did not wish to be identified.

Rajendra Kalkar, president-west at Phoenix Mills, which operates more than half-dozen malls in Mumbai, Pune and Bengaluru, and in some tier-2 cities, said rentals are revised as per the originally agreed terms of the agreement. But in new agreements, the issue of annual rent revision is being negotiated on a case-by-case basis.

Another retailer said on condition of anonymity that brands invest a lot in fit-outs and annual rental hikes will make the business unviable. “A brand has to manage so many stores that annual hikes will lead to a chaotic situation where every month brands will have to keep rental hikes in mind,” said the retailer.

Other malls such as those of DLF, Nexus and Oberoi, Select City Walk and Vegas are also mulling over the issue, said industry executives.

“We have started something like staggered rental so that we can hike the rental every year. However, in the first year. we don’t put much pressure because the brand is trying to settle in. But once they start doing well, we push for a rental hike,” said the director of a leading mall, who did not wish to be identified.

Single-brand retailers said the demand is strong and they may be able to absorb rent inflation, if at all it goes through.

Mall developers said they will push for a 20% rental hike in three years given the inflation and cost of raw materials.

“The cost of everything has gone up and we will have to put it in a fresh condition to sustain. Retailers are doing good and they should not be hesitant in absorbing the hike,” said another mall developer.

India’s top ten listed retailers, including Aditya Birla Fashion & Retail, Shoppers Stop, Jubilant Foodworks and Tata Trent, have together saved more than Rs 1,500 crore in rents over the past two financial years, after negotiating discounts with malls and other landlords for the lockdown period.

“Covid impacted both mall developers and retailers, and mall developers may possibly be trying to recover from those lockdown losses,” said Devangshu Dutta, founder of retail consulting firm Third Eyesight. “Where there’s a dearth of quality retail spaces, well-managed malls may be able to negotiate more strongly for a frequent hike. But both retailers and malls need to come together for a symbiotic solution that works for both.”

Rentals have now returned to pre-Covid levels, as malls have returned to normal business and their tenants are seeing healthy footfall. According to ICRA, rental income reached 80% of pre-Covid levels during 2021-22 and is expected to surpass 2019-20 levels by 4-6% in the current fiscal.

“We have seen double-digit growth and understand that it was an unfavourable time for mall operators during Covid. So during renewal, we may accept rent escalation if we are not able to hold it. However, we don’t expect any adverse impact on our financials,” said Satyen Momaya, CEO of Celio, a French apparel brand.

Rental incomes have improved at a faster pace after the second wave of the pandemic, with recovery at 74% during the second quarter of 2021-22, as against 34% a year ago, and reaching 102% of pre-Covid levels in the second half of the current fiscal, said ICRA.

“Malls are investing heavily in events and every month there are two-three events to ensure footfall. With these initiatives, the mall expects sales to increase and the retailer to pay higher rent,” said a Kolkata-based mall developer, who did not wish to be identified.

ET Bureau, Dec 23, 2022

Reliance Retail Ventures, a subsidiary of Reliance Industries and the holding company of the group’s retail businesses, signed definitive agreements to acquire German wholesaler Metro AG’s India business – Metro Cash & Carry India-for a total cash consideration of ₹2,850 crore.

As part of the deal, Reliance will get 31 large format stores in 21 cities as well as the realty portfolio that includes six store-occupied properties, 3,500 staff and Metro’s 3 million B2B customers, of which 1 million are frequent buyers. The deal is subject to regulatory and other conditions and is expected to be completed by March 2023, the companies said on Thursday. ET had first reported in its edition dated Oct 15 that Reliance is the frontrunner to acquire Metro’s India business.

Metro AG said in a release that the India business valuation implies a sales multiple of 0.6x based on sales in the year ended September and takes into account lease rental and other related liabilities of e150 million (₹1,320 crore). Metro India generated sales of ₹7,700 crore (926 million euros), its best ever, in the year ended September.

Metro expects a transaction gain of about 150 million euros and an earnings per share (EPS) gain, once the deal closes.

The move will help Reliance consolidate its presence in the B2B trade segment, which it calls new commerce and is among its next big growth drivers, intensifying competition with Udaan, Amazon and Walmart-owned Flipkart. Reliance owns and runs the country’s largest retail business. All Metro India stores will continue to operate under the Metro brand during an agreed transition period.

Reliance Retail Ventures director Isha Ambani said the acquisition of Metro India aligns with its new commerce strategy of building a unique model of shared prosperity through active collaboration with small merchants and enterprises.

“We believe that Metro India’s healthy assets combined with our deep understanding of the Indian merchant and kirana ecosystem will help offer a differentiated value proposition to small businesses in India,” she said.

Metro AG chief executive officer Steffen Greubel said it is selling a growing and profitable wholesale business at the right time. “Indian trade industry is currently experiencing strong consolidation and disproportionate growth in ecommerce, including the B2B segment,” he said. “Due to the market dynamics, a sizable investment would be required to further grow the business. Therefore, now is the right time to use the momentum and open a new chapter for Metro India.”

Metro said it aims for a leading market position in wholesale. Due to increasing market consolidation, accelerated digitalisation and intense competition, Metro India’s operations don’t fit Metro’s core growth strategy, it said. Abneesh Roy, executive director, institutional equities at Nuvama, said the price to sales ratio is 0.37, which seems fair, given the B2B segment is a low-margin business.

Reliance will gain a significant jump in revenue and established locations that it can expand or optimise under its own branding and formats, said Devangshu Dutta, founder of retail consulting firm Third Eyesight. “The additional shelf space will also be very welcome for its own FMCG brands,” he said.

(Published in The Economic Times)

Sagar Malviya, ET Bureau

November 28, 2022

About half a dozen global apparel and lifestyle brands expanded anywhere between 30% and 70% to garner combined annual revenues of nearly $2 billion in FY22, reversing the performance from a year ago when Covid-induced curbs on mobility and business operations caused sales to shrink.

Sales of Swedish fashion retailer H&M expanded 49% while rival Zara reported a 61% increase in its topline. Japanese brand Uniqlo saw a 64% jump in sales while American denim maker Levi Strauss posted a 58% increase, latest filings with the Registrar of Companies showed. Dubai-based department store Lifestyle International, too, saw a 38% jump in revenues on a large base while German brand Puma expanded 68% despite being the biggest firm in the sporting segment.

“This is a combined impact of a rebound in industry-wide demand in India, a low base effect for some brands, and the visibility and mindshare advantage global brands have,” said Devangshu Dutta, founder of Third Eyesight, a strategy consulting firm.

Big Focus on Online Sales

“Global brands are aspirational not only for consumers but also for real estate developers. Perceived as anchor tenants, they get their choice of the best locations – this provides more impetus to their stores vis-a-vis Indian brands, which are shunted to higher floors in multi-level shopping spaces,” Dutta said.

The revenue surge comes at a time when most of these retailers are facing intensifying competition from both local and global rivals in an increasingly crowded market where web-commerce firms continue to offer steep discounts. Even multinational companies have upped their online focus and for some, web-based orders make up more than a third of their revenues.

For instance, Puma India’s online sales make up nearly half its total business, while for H&M the share is 42%.

Abhishek Ganguly, managing director, Puma India and Southeast Asia, said the affinity of young Indian consumers toward ecommerce is extremely high and that adoption of the online mode of shopping continues to accelerate even after the resumption of normal business operations.

“Consumers may have bought online for the first time during the lockdowns, but they have embraced ecommerce in their shopping journey,” said Ganguly.

“Almost half of our business is in the form of digital commerce today. Having said that, we are witnessing equally strong growth – both in our offline and online channels,” he said.

As the world’s second most-populated country, India is an attractive market for aspirational apparel brands as rising disposable incomes cause the consuming base of the pyramid to broaden further. The performance by global brands is also in line with the overall trend within the home-grown apparel and lifestyle segment, with Shoppers Stop, Tata-owned Trent and Aditya Birla Fashion & Retail also reporting smart performance rebounds, indicating a secular demand for discretionary products.

(Published in Economic Times)