Sagar Malviya, Economic Times
Mumbai, 14 December 2024

Fast fashion was on a slow lane in the last fiscal year. Sales growth slowed for top retailers and fast fashion brands, show the latest regulatory filings of Marks & Spencer, Zara, H&M, Levi’s, Lifestyle, Uniqlo, Benetton and Celio. The bottom line too had taken a hit, with most brands posting lower profits in the fiscal year ended March 31. Sales growth of H&M and Zara fell from 40% in FY23 to 11% and 8% in FY24, show the filings with the Registrar of Companies. Levi’s growth slowed to 4% from 54% in FY23, while that of Uniqlo halved to 31% from 60%.

The current year is not looking good either, as sticky inflation and stagnant income weigh on consumer spending on discretionary products, say experts.

Devangshu Dutta, founder of retail consulting firm Third Eyesight, said the job market has been under pressure and slower income growth for urban consumer impacted demand, a trend likely to continue even during FY25.

“There is a visible slowdown led by the urban middle class who buy branded products. These brands have been targeting young upwardly mobile consumers, who are tightening the purse strings due to the current economic circumstances of hiring slack and fewer jobs,” said Dutta. “The situation is not hunky-dory at all, and this will continue over the next few quarters.”

Being the world’s most populous country, India is an attractive market for apparel brands, especially with youngsters increasingly embracing western-style clothing. But most international and premium brands have been competing for a relatively narrow slice of the population pie in large urban centres.

Over the past few years, top global apparel and fast fashion brands struck a strong chord with young customers, racking up sales growth of between 40% and 60% in FY23, bucking the trend in a market where the overall demand for discretionary products started slowing down. This has reversed now.

Consumers started reducing non-essential spending, such as on apparel, lifestyle products, electronics and dining out since early last year due to high inflation, increase in interest rates, job losses in sectors like startups and IT, and an overall slowdown in the economy.

According to the Retailers Association of India (RAI), sales growth in organised retail segments such as apparel, footwear, beauty and quick service restaurants halved to 9% last year and slowed further to about 5% in the first six months in the current fiscal year. This slowdown came after a surge in spending across segments-from clothes to cars-in the post-pandemic period, triggered by revenge shopping.

“The base post-pandemic was extremely high, and that kind of growth is not sustainable as there is nothing spectacular in economy to drive demand,” said Kumar Rajagopalan, chief executive officer at the RAI that represents organised retailers. “Our bet was on the festive and wedding season, but we will have to wait and watch until next year for the performance numbers,” he said.

(Published in Economic Times)

Writankar Mukherjee, Economic Times
7 October 2024

Reliance Retail has initiated efforts to enter the thriving quick commerce market in a move that is set to escalate competition for Zomato-owned Blinkit, Swiggy Instamart and BigBasket, among others. The country’s largest retailer has started offering quick commerce services in select areas in Navi Mumbai and Bengaluru through its ecommerce platform JioMart since last weekend.

It will initially sell grocery items from its retail stores totalling about 3,000 nationwide, eventually adding value fashion and small electronic products such as smartphones, laptops and speakers, a senior executive said. All orders will be fulfilled from its own network of stores including Reliance Digital and Trends.

The retail arm of Reliance Industries plans to rapidly scale up its quick commerce venture pan-India by this month-end with the aim to deliver most orders in 10-15 minutes and the rest within 30 minutes, the executive said. The company will use its acquired logistics service Grab for the fulfilment.

Reliance, however, doesn’t have any plan to set up dark stores or neighbourhood warehouses, unlike other quick commerce operators, the executive said. Analysts said this may become a challenge in delivering orders within 30 minutes in large cities where traffic is high during peak hours.

To entice customers, Reliance won’t charge any delivery fee, platform fee or surge fee irrespective of the order value, and keep a major focus on untapped smaller cities and towns where quick commerce operators like Blinkit are yet to enter, the executive said. Other platforms have a delivery fee and platform fee.

Reliance plans to offer a wider choice of products of 10,000-12,000 stock keeping units by linking its entire store inventory to the quick commerce business, which too is much more than rivals.

Eventually, the company aims to cover 1,150 cities spanning 5,000 pin codes where it runs grocery stores. The executive said the company would target a bigger share of business from towns and smaller cities hitherto untapped by quick commerce firms.

“Reliance has reworked the way orders are delivered for JioMart. Earlier, orders had a scheduled delivery taking 1-2 days by small trucks who would take multiple orders and deliver them one by one. Now, all grocery orders will be quick commerce where one delivery bike or cycle will deliver one order. Each grocery store will cover a 3 KM radius,” the executive said.

Earlier this year, the company tried to reduce JioMart delivery timings to a few hours or at least the same day under its hyperlocal initiative. It has fine-tuned the process further to 10-30 minute delivery. “This has become a top-of-the-kind requirement in the market right now,” the executive said.

A spokesperson for Reliance Retail didn’t respond to ET’s queries.

Devangshu Dutta, chief executive at consulting firm Third Eyesight, said Reliance can ultimately use a blended approach of quick commerce deliveries in areas near its stores and scheduled deliveries a bit far away.

“Since they are in a market share acquisition mode in quick commerce, charging no transaction fees and offering higher discounts on products is a given. There is significant scope for deep-pocketed players like Reliance to strengthen presence in quick commerce. They have aggressively backed other experiments in the retail business once they worked, and may do it again,” said Dutta.

For fast-moving consumer goods companies, quick commerce is the fastest growing channel, accounting for 30-35% of total online sales.

(Published in Economic Times)

Ratna Bhushan, Economic Times
New Delhi, 19 August 2024

Close to a dozen small to mid-sized global cafes and restaurant brands have either entered India in the past two quarters or are in talks with local players at a time when large global chains are seeing sharp decline in same store sales and growth.

Mid-sized global chains are making investments even in a modest range of Rs. 20-30 crore to tap select cities and intend to keep store counts under about 30 to stay profitable on each store. This is in contrast to earlier times when cafes and chains entered India with mega deals and investment plans, executives said.

Belgian bakery Le Pain Quotidien, French patisserie chain Laduree, UK’s JD Wetherspoon and Frank HotDogs are among those to have inked collaborations with Indian partners, while newer homegrown ones such as Harley’s, Paper & Pie, abCoffee and First Coffee are expanding with first-time investors and mid-rung store rollouts.

“A combination of factors is driving this change of newer, smaller launches,” said Devangshu Dutta, chief executive of retail consultancy Third Eyesight. “There are niches the newer chains are addressing as consumers’ choices evolve and get more specific. Also, there’s a broadening of a wealth base in India leading to mid-sized business houses having capability to invest and willingness to try out newer segments,” he said.

With the big-bang launches in food services drying up, there’s been a mushrooming of small deals that is expected to surge.

Bake & Brew, which has inked a master franchise agreement with Belgian bakery chain Le Pain Quotidien to re-enter India, is investing Rs 35 crore in the first year. “We’ll start in metros and may expand to smaller towns later. We also see potential in travel retail, airports and larger train stations,” Annick Van Overstraeten, chief executive of Le Pain Quotidien, told ET. Bake & Brew is backed by the Nalanda group with core business interests in automotive metal parts.

Earlier this month, the French patisserie chain Laduree said it was launching its cafe at Ritz-Carlton, Pune, in collaboration with CK Israni Group which has business interests in home decor and construction. Its Managing Director Chandni Nath Israni said in a statement that the CK Israni group planned to expand Laduree’s presence across other Indian cities.

Experimenting in newer cuisines is also driving the change. “Our decision to expand in India stems from a deep appreciation for variety and a passion for bold flavours. We see great potential in the Indian market,” said Benjamin Attal, founder of US chain Franks Hot Dog.

Smaller and newer homegrown chains, in contrast, are expanding, backed by mid-ticket investors and business houses, many of whom are foraying into food services for the first time.

Last week Brigade Group, a realtor, announced a partnership with specialty coffee chain abCoffee to set up six outlets within Brigade properties.

“We partnered with abCoffee to enhance the F&B offerings at our office parks. abCoffee is able to retrofit into operational buildings without requiring additional water or gas points,” Arvind Rao, vice president – commercial business, Brigade Group, said.

Specialty coffee startup First Coffee plans to open 35 stores by 2024-end “focused on delivery and minimalist store aesthetic,” according to a company statement, to sell flavoured coffees, cold brews and bubble teas.

(Published in Economic Times)

Sagar Malviya & Faizan Haidar, Economic Times
19 August 2024, Mumbai/New Delhi

About a dozen listed lifestyle, grocery retailers and quick-service restaurants (QSRs) reduced their employee count by nearly 26,000 in FY24, retreating from the hiring spree of the past two financial years after they slowed down store expansion rate amid weakening demand.

According to their latest annual reports, the reduction was completely led by five retailers – Reliance Industries’ retail arm, Titan, Raymond, Page and Spencers – which saw their combined workforce decline 17% or by 52,000 people. The staff count was across permanent and contractual employees and adjusted for attrition in the retail segment, the second largest employer after agriculture. These retailers had a combined workforce of 429,000 people in FY24 compared to 455,000 employees a year ago.

“There is a shortage of talent and we are trying to tie up with universities so that the industry has the option to hire. Some companies might have reduced staff due to shutting of some business, but companies like Shoppers Stop and Trent continue to expand and will require staff,” said Kumar Rajagopalan, CEO of Retailers Association of India that represents organised retailers in the country.

Consumers had started reducing non-essential spending such as that on apparel, lifestyle products, electronics and dining out since Diwali 2022 due to inflation, increase in interest rates, job losses in sectors like startups and IT, and an overall slowdown in the economy. India’s retail sales expansion slowed to 4% last year after a surge in spending across segments-from clothes to cars-in the post-pandemic period, triggered by revenge shopping.

RIL in its annual report said the overall voluntary separations in FY24 were lower than FY23 and the retail industry typically has a high employee turnover rate, especially in store operations.

“Store productivity usually happens in cycles and we have seen consumers unleash their spending post pandemic, which led to retailers expanding their network or square footage. However, if some of the stores are unviable, then management teams are now highly objective, even ruthless, and will shut stores,” said Devangshu Dutta, founder of retail consulting firm Third Eyesight. “In addition, any company planning to list would like to have healthy and lean operations, although we cannot pin-point it to Reliance in this case.”

Weak sales saw these retailers having the slowest pace of store expansions in at least five years at 9%. The retail sector took 7.1 million square feet of space across top eight cities in 2023, which is expected to dip to 6-6.5 million sq ft in 2024, according to commercial real estate services firm CBRE.

“There’s an enormous management bandwidth requirement to just get this entire ship running in the right trajectory, right direction, and with the relevant speed. We are thinking about what this company will be 10 years from now. And hence, if you want to reach there in a nice way without too much damage or bruises, then what is the kind of talent we need to have today in the next 2 years, in the next 3 years?” Avenue Supermarts CEO & MD Neville Noronha asked investors.

(Published in Economic Times)

Faizan Haidar, Economic Times
10 Aug 2024, New Delhi

Japanese apparel major Uniqlo’s sales growth in India slipped by more than half to a still-strong 32% last fiscal year while its net profit expanded by 25%.

The Indian unit of Asia’s biggest clothing brand posted a net profit of ₹85.1 crore for the year ended March 2024 with net revenues of ₹824 crore, according to its latest filing with the Registrar of Companies (RoC). Uniqlo India had posted a profit of ₹68.1 crore with sales of ₹625 crore in the previous year. Its on-year revenue growth was 69% in FY23 and 64% in FY22.

Uniqlo opened its first door in the country in September 2019, but lockdowns and other constraints during the Covid-19 pandemic delayed its store expansion plans. At present, it has about 13 outlets in the country. Overall retail sales growth rate across segments such as apparel, footwear and quick service restaurants (QSR) fell year-on-year every month in FY24, reflecting comparatively weaker consumer sentiment.

Last fiscal’s comparatively slower 4-7% growth rate sustained this year as well, with May and June seeing a 3% and 5% rise each, Retailers Association of India (RAI) recently said after a survey of top 100 retailers.

“The market was sluggish for the industry as a whole last year, and that will reflect in practice every brand P&L, whether Indian or international,” said Devangshu Dutta, chief executive of retail sector consultancy Third Eyesight. “However, any brand that is committed to the Indian market as a strategic market for its future growth will take the ups and downs in its stride,” he said.

“Uniqlo’s expansion plans now include store sizes that would be smaller both in the cities it is already present in and in newer cities, which should help it tap into the demand at operating costs that are appropriate to each location,” Dutta said. Inditex Trent, Spanish fast-fashion major Zara’s joint venture with Tata that runs 23 stores in the country, saw its revenue rise 8% to ₹2,775 crore last fiscal, significantly down from 40% growth a year earlier, according to Trent’s annual report. Its net profit fell 8% on year to ₹244 crore.

Over the past decade, global brands Zara and H&M have become market leaders in the fast fashion segment in India.

Uniqlo has said India is one of the most priority markets where consumers are increasingly shifting from ‘fast fashion’ to long-lasting essentials and functional wear. As the world’s second most-populated country, India is an attractive market for apparel brands, especially with youngsters increasingly embracing western-style clothing.

Uniqlo is globally popular for functional basics like T-shirts, jeans and woollen wear, unlike fast-fashion rivals which are associated with designs that move quickly from the catwalk to the showroom.

(Published in Economic Times)