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July 25, 2023
Suprita Anupam, Inc42
Jul 25, 2023
– Following a stock downgrade, Nykaa might lose some visibility among public market investors at a time when competition in the beauty ecommerce space is intensifying
– Nykaa, which has been the most popular beauty marketplace, has had to fight off Reliance Tira, Flipkart-owned Myntra, Tata CLiQ and others but has to invest heavily in omnichannel and private label expansion
– As its profitability and traction have declined, Nykaa needs to fix things for the long run without losing too much money as it does not have the capital reserves similar to its rivals
In the first week of July, the Nykaa stock took a significant hit, falling 42% from its 52-week high. Further, the Association of Mutual Funds in India (AMFI) downgraded the stock, dropping it from the top 100 listed companies in the country. As of now, the company is ranked somewhere between 101 and 250 on the market capitalisation threshold.
From a near monopoly in the beauty ecommerce space, Nykaa has lost its top spot. Not to mention, new competition, in the form of D2C brands and behemoths such as Tata and Reliance, has complicated the situation even more.
The downgrade by the AMFI means that Nykaa is no longer an attractive largecap stock in India, and this could have an impact on the company’s visibility in the near future.
So, what exactly triggered this collapse?
It was only in November 2021 that Nykaa’s INR 5,352 Cr IPO saw 82x subscription, the highest among large startup IPOs in India. Having withstood competition from marketplaces such as Amazon India and Walmart-backed Flipkart and Myntra, Nykaa seemingly set a new benchmark for Indian ecommerce startups with its blockbuster IPO.
But the last 20 months have been nothing short of disruptive. Reliance-backed AJIO has grown in stature, and the Indian conglomerate has also launched Tira in the beauty ecommerce space.
Meanwhile, Tata has also bolstered its beauty and personal care product assortment on its platform Tata CLiQ. Furthermore, the Tatas have added 20 beauty tech stores across the country, aligned with its ecommerce operations, while Myntra Beauty has registered 2X-3X growth in recent months and expanded its brand collection. Therefore, Nykaa needs to come up with something exceptional to compete with the aforementioned well-funded BPC contenders.
Adding to the company’s woes was the announcement of the issue of bonus shares in a 5:1 ratio and changes in key management personnel after a successful IPO. This did not go down well with investors. Bonus shares announcement was largely perceived as a way to keep the company’s anchor investors from offloading shares at the end of their IPO lock-in period.
Experts believe that amid declining year-on-year profitability, Nykaa could see a cash crunch as it prepares to combat with deep-pocketed corporations. For now, it will be interesting to see if Nykaa can hold onto its market share?
Nykaa’s Losing Its Footfall To AJIO & Myntra
First, let’s look at the bread-and-butter for ecommerce platforms such as Nykaa — that is visits, page views, engagement and repeat orders.
It must be noted that Nykaa has separate properties for fashion (Nykaafashion.com) and beauty (nykaa.com). If we look at the performance over the last 3-4 months, the fashion vertical has definitely seen some gains, but Nykaa.com itself has experienced negative growth in total visits.
The flagship property is bleeding users due to an ever-intensifying competition, which is quite clear in the graph given below.

Further, Nykaa, Nykaa Man and Nykaa Fashion have the lowest numbers when it comes to average visit durations.
On the ecommerce front, Nykaa has a lot of catching up to do against its competitors. Some of Nykaa’s private labels — take Dot&Key for instance — have become popular discounted items on Myntra, AJIO, Amazon India and other marketplaces, which shows that the company is forced to use its competition to sell its products.
In contrast, Myntra, AJIO, Tira and Amazon’s private labels are largely walled inside their respective marketplaces. To beat the competition and stay in the public spotlight, Nykaa has opted for the omnichannel strategy, and it is looking to add brand-owned stores on the retail front. But here too, the competition is stiff.

Nykaa Faces Challenges With Its Online-To-Offline Strategy
When we look at the omnichannel operations, Nykaa has 145 physical stores, 38 fulfilment centres, and 2,749 stores of its owned brands. The company plans to open more physical stores this year, according the announcements made in its last earnings call.
Nykaa’s founder and CEO Falguni Nayar had earlier said, “Physical retail is a necessary investment that we need to make, even if it adversely affects overall profitability. So, we are aiming for the optimal mix of online, offline, and duty.”
This is where the situation becomes more complicated. Being primarily an online platform, Nykaa has managed to stay lean and achieve profits thus far. However, opening more stores means more investments and a significant increase in operational expenditure, including higher employee expenses.
Plus, this entails entering into fierce competition with Tata and Reliance.
Reliance Retail alone has launched over 3,300 new stores in FY23 under its various brands, including Tira Beauty, Trends, and others.
Similarly, Tata has been a well-known name in the BPC and fashion industry. It introduced the first-ever cosmetics brand, Lakme Cosmetics, to India (later sold to Unilever). Tata has over 22 in-house labels for its Westside brand, which operates over 200 stores across the country.
While Tata plans to open 20 beauty tech stores, equipped with AI and VR, it already has 391 Zudio stores nationwide.
For Tata and Reliance, it is relatively easier to build an online business backed by their offline stores compared to Nykaa’s strategy of building an offline presence backed by online operations. These large conglomerates have years of experience in building retail brands in the offline space.
So, essentially, Nykaa seems to have lost ground in its strength areas of ecommerce and offline retail, as it is not as experienced as its rivals.
Speaking to Inc42, Devangshu Dutta, the founder and CEO of Third Eyesight, a boutique management consulting firm explained, “Apart from the impact of Covid, in the last 3-4 years, many brands have started moving offline because that’s where the bulk of the business happens. But moving offline means entering a completely different business. You’re not able to centralise inventory as much, and you may not be able to respond to market-specific segments as quickly.”
He also believes, like any other offline retail business, Nykaa will face high operational costs, but it has an advantage in the fact that it may be able to use data more effectively from its online operations. Nevertheless, this is a minor advantage.
“Your store locations have to be correct, and self-sustaining quickly, at least on a cash operating basis. At the business level you may look at profitability in a longer term,” Dutta added.
Profits Plummet: Nykaa’s Other Big Worry
India’s beauty and personal care market, presently valued at $16.8 Bn, is poised to grow at a compound annual rate of 11%, with cosmetics and perfumes categories growing at a faster clip.
According to a joint report by international beauty brand Estée Lauder and Gurugram-based business insights firm 1Lattice, a substantial portion of sales worth about $1.3 Bn are through ecommerce channels. This is expected to grow at a CAGR of 30% during FY22-27, followed by companies that retail beauty products in health and beauty stores and modern retail shops.
With 30% of India’s BPC market share, Nykaa has so far managed to stay ahead in the race. Nykaa’s beauty category (55% of the broad BPC category) saw 33% full-year growth with a GMV of INR 6,649 Cr. On the fashion side, the GMV grew 47% for the full year at INR 2,570 Cr.
BPC and fashion are the two mainstays of Nykaa’s business, even though fashion is a relatively new vertical for the Mumbai-based company. The company had earlier launched Nykaa Man, a separate platform for men’s grooming, beauty and fashion, but with less than 1 Mn visits, it has failed to grow over the last few years while AJIO has grown from 0-37 Mn users, as per analysts.
“At one end, Nykaa’s online PAT has been going down for the last two years, while Nykaa Fashion’s loss for the year has grown consecutively, putting Nykaa business in a fix,” said an analyst from PwC.
Nykaa needs to bring a balance between short-term losses and long-term profits. However, the company’s current strategy fails to show a way out, the analyst added.

The Balancing Act For Nykaa
As per the analyst quoted above, the company’s BPC products have so far had lower prices than Myntra and AJIO, where discounts are typically lower.
However, when compared to Amazon India and its long list of D2C brands and private labels, Nykaa products were slightly more expensive. Amazon also scored over Nykaa with its better supply chain and distribution.
Nykaa banked on product assortment, the assurance of quality and authenticity of products, but as more and more brands join Tira, AJIO and Tata CLiQ, this is also fast eroding.
Access to international brands is no longer exclusive to Nykaa, so it needs to tackle distribution and supply chain, where its rivals score heavily.
Giving Nykaa the benefit of the doubt, a consultant from brokerage firm Motilal Oswal recently said, “There is no clear playbook for these businesses. When Nykaa entered the segment, it was pioneering many aspects in India.”
However, now the company needs to exercise extreme caution regarding expenses and investments because of heavyweight competition with deeper pockets.
P Ganesh, chief financial officer at Nykaa, highlighted that the company still has funds remaining from the IPO, which will be utilised to secure future capital needs.
Ganesh added, “It’s worth noting that while we have observed a considerable increase in working capital as the company scales up, the number of working capital days is expected to stabilise. This means that the amount of funding allocated to working capital should moderate in the future.”
But analysts also believed that Nykaa cannot afford to sacrifice its market share in India’s rapidly growing beauty, personal care, and wellness segment. One thing that is advantageous for Nykaa is that Reliance-owned Tira is still new in the market and will take some time to get to critical mass adoption.
This is a window of opportunity for Nykaa to stretch its lead and fight off its rivals. Nykaa’s brand value primarily comes from its online business, so it must not let offline expenses hinder its online growth plans. However, given the competition, Nykaa is in a Catch-22 situation.
In the BPC segment, owned and private label brands play a vital role in increasing long-term profitability and repeat purchases. All of this will require extensive investment from Nykaa’s leadership — there are segments in BPC where Nykaa has no private label or owned brands.
As of now, the question remains: Can Nykaa maintain its dominance in the online market while facing fierce competition on multiple fronts?
(Published on Inc42)
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July 19, 2023
Faizan Haidar, ET Bureau
19 July 2023
E-commerce companies’ share in warehousing space leasing has fallen to 3% amid declining demand from more than 20% during Covid-19. With the easing of the pandemic, demand faltered for e-commerce companies, even as bricks-and-mortar rivals rented 14% of space during the January-June period as they witnessed a demand resurgence.
In 2020, during the pandemic, e-commerce took more than a fifth of warehouse space while physical retailers had a 9% share, according to data by Savills India.
The overall leasing activity in India continued to grow, with a total space take-up of 22.4 million square feet in the first six months of 2023, up from 20.9 million sq ft a year ago.
“E-commerce companies had over-committed space during Covid, expecting the exponential growth they experienced at that time to continue. There are many facilities where they continue to pay rentals without utilising the full space,” said Gagan Randev, executive director, India Sotheby’s International Realty.
According to Savills data, after increasing demand for warehousing space over the past five years, tier-2 and tier-3 cities saw the share of e-commerce declining to 4% in the January-June period from 34% a year ago.
“In the past three years, year-on-year space absorption from e-commerce has undergone a significant change due to increased investments in their warehousing operations and footprint optimisation through automation, shelving and improved racking systems. These investments have enabled them to increase their existing storage space and enhance overall operational efficiency,” said Srinivas N, managing director, Industrial and Logistics, Savills India.
Experts said the companies are also looking to outsource the space they had taken during the pandemic.
“E-commerce overbuilt the capacity as Covid-led growth was harvested by them. Now that capacity is vacant. That’s why you see a lot of marketplaces trying to externalise their services. That is not coming out of a business model, that is coming out from vacant space,” said Ashvini Jakhar, founder of Prozo, which manages supply chains for companies.
In the first half of 2023, the third-party logistics sector continued to drive warehousing demand, accounting for 44% of the total absorption, up from 37% a year ago, followed by the manufacturing (22%), retail (13%) and fast-moving capital goods and consumer durables sector (6%).
“E-commerce, grew exponentially during Covid when physical retailers were constrained by prevailing conditions and immediately after that when chain stores were still recovering from the pandemic shock,” said Devangshu Dutta, founder of retail consulting firm Third Eyesight. “However, the retail business in India is predominantly offline; as demand continues to grow overall, it is only natural for physical retailers’ own growth to be driven by the market’s momentum and that would be reflected in warehousing space taken up by them across the country.”
For most retailers, after Covid-19, the warehouse is the epicentre for omnichannel distribution network for offline as well as online clientele.
(Published in Economic Times)
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July 1, 2023
Viveat Susan Pinto, Financial Express
July 1, 2023
The rivalry between two of the country’s best-known retailers – Reliance Retail and Nykaa – is beginning to play out in multiple categories. After Reliance Retail stepped into the beauty retail space in April with Tira, an online-and-offline beauty destination, to counter Nykaa, the country’s largest organised retailer has set its sights on the women’s inner wear market.
Around 60-70% of the $6-billion inner wear market in India is unorganised, with the balance 30-40% being organised with online and offline brands. The organised market is growing at around 15-20% per annum, making it a compelling story for retailers, industry experts said.
To be sure, Reliance Retail has six inner wear brands in its portfolio, including private label Hush retailed through Reliance Trends, acquired digital brands Clovia, Zivame and Amante and partnerships with international brands Marks & Spencer and Hunkemoller, persons in the know said.
But what has been missing in its portfolio are retail stores dedicated to inner wear. Reliance Retail is now piloting a new retail format in the inner wear segment called Blush Lace, according to informed sources, and may formally launch these stores in the next few months, targeting the mass market, including tier II and III cities. Reliance Retail executives were not immediately available for comment.
Thee effort from Reliance Retail, however, comes as Nykaa makes steady inroads into the inner wear market with Nykd, its in-house brand that is available both online and offline. The company has rolled out six stores so far of Nykd in cities such as Bengaluru, Delhi, Chennai, Hyderabad and Mysore and is slowly emerging as a strong player in the category with a combination of good designs, affordable price points and easy-to-navigate tutorials, a strategy it has successfully used in beauty retail. Annual sales of Nykd have touched `85 crore within three years of launch, Nykaa said during its recent investor day, with plans to scale up operations as business booms in the category.
“Though a large part of the inner wear market in India is fragmented, over the last few years, the market has seen the entry of national and international brands as general awareness and disposable incomes grow among consumers. The presence of online players has also helped grow the organised market and most brands, whether online or offline, have an omni-channel strategy to tap consumers,” Devangshu Dutta, chief executive of Gurugram-based retail consultancy Third Eyesight, said.
Apart from lingerie, Blush Lace will have women’s accessories, beauty and skin care products, loungewear, shapewear and sleep essentials as it seeks to position itself as a one-stop shop for all things inner wear.
While Reliance Retail’s current portfolio of inner wear brands will be part of Blush Lace’s catalogue, the company may introduce more brands in the future to drive footfalls, informed sources said. For Nykaa, on the other hand, Nykd, along with 20 Dresses, another owned brand from the company, will be big focus areas in the future.
(Published in Financial Express)
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June 20, 2023
Kuldeep Chauhan, Editor-in-Chief, HimbuMail
20 June 2023, Shimla/New Delhi
For the first time in India, a conference brought together influential religious figures and water practitioners, establishing a powerful alliance with a shared vision of safeguarding water resources for future generations.
There is no disagreement over sanctity of water in all religions. But problem is how different communities and their followers take up the task to conserve and protect water and on which scale of their involvement?
There are individual success stories in Assam, Himachal, Ladakh (Ice Stupa), Uttarakhand, Rajasthan, Maharashtra and other places where individual initiatives have created wonders conserving water and forests.
There are tribal communities in the Himalaya who live in harmony with Nature preserving and protecting water and bio-diversities. But the challenge is how to bring all on board to protect water, forests and glaciers from depletion.
The conference brought Religious leaders from various faiths together at N D Tiwari Bhawan in New Delhi on June 18 and addressed the pressing need for water conservation and management.
Under the banner of “Water Security and Peace” the conference witnessed the convergence of diverse religious teachings. They all emphasized the paramount importance of protecting nature.
Recognizing that the protection of water is a fundamental responsibility outlined in religious texts worldwide, the religious leaders urged a global awakening towards water conservation and peaceful coexistence.
During the conference, several key decisions or resolves were made.
Religious leaders pledged to collaborate closely with social workers to preserve India’s faith in the sanctity of water and nature.
A comprehensive water literacy campaign will be launched across universities, colleges to promote awareness and ensure water security.
Notably, Chetna Yatra, a symbolic journey led by religious leaders of all faiths, will be organized to raise awareness about groundwater recharge, inspiring communities to actively participate in conservation efforts.
Eminent subject experts from across the country shed light on the dire consequences of the water crisis compounded by climate change.
The conference drew a diverse audience, encompassing individuals from all walks of life who united in their resolution to forge ahead in water conservation initiatives.
Dr. Rajendra Singh, President of the People’s World Commission on Drought and Flood said the impending water crisis threatens global stability. “To avert this crisis, people from all segments of society must unite, as only through collective action can peace be preserved.”
Dr. Indira Khurana, President of the Himalayan River Basin Council, expressed her concern about the unexpected swiftness with which climate change impacts have affected humanity. Underscoring the gravity of the situation, she stressed the urgent need for society to address these challenges together, transcending societal divisions.
The program’s convener, Maulana Qasmi, highlighted that religious leaders felt a shared responsibility to stand alongside society in protecting nature. “Their aim is to awaken society to the critical subject of water conservation, fostering a deep sense of awareness and urgency.”
The conference featured the insightful perspectives of notable figures such as Sudarshan Das from the Mahanadi Bachao Andolan in Odisha, Vinod Bodhankar from Pune, Neeraj Kumar from Bihar, Deepak Malviya from Kanpur, and Anil Sagar, Arun Tiwari, Ibrahim Khan, Raj Kumar Sangwan, Subodh Nandan Sharma, Lakshmi Bhatia, Devangshu Dutta, among others.
Over 140 participants passionately shared their views, further fueling the collective resolve towards water conservation.
National convenor of Jan-Jan Jodo Abhiyan, Sanjay Singh, emphasized that the time has come for people of all religions and social classes to unite on a massive scale, collectively spearheading the cause of water conservation.
Distinguished representatives from various faiths graced the event, including Dharma Guru Swami Sushil Goswami, Vivek Muni representing Jainism, Ijazak Malekar from Judaism, Father Sebastian from the Christian faith, and Shri Mahant Vivekanand. Maulana AR Shaheen Qasmi and Mr. Tariq represented Islam, while Dharam Singh Nihang advocated for the Sikh faith, and Mr. A.K. Merchant shared the views of the Bahai faith.
The historic conference, organized by the People’s World Commission on Drought and Flood and the World Peace Organization, serves as a powerful testament to the growing realization that water security and peace are intricately intertwined.
The religious leaders have taken up the mantle of environmental stewardship in India and it remains to be seen how the people and other NGOs, bodies and government agencies replicate the resolves on the ground zero.
If what is resolved at Conference gets practiced on ground zero, the Nation and the world stand poised for a better future where collective efforts pave the way for a harmonious coexistence with nature.
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June 16, 2023
Sharleen D’Souza & Shivani Shinde, Business Standard
June 8, 2023
Why are companies finding it difficult to sustain the supply-chain business?
Experts point out that gross margins in supplying fast-moving consumer goods (FMCGs) are very low.
While it does look attractive because it is the largest part of the consumption market, the last-mile supply chain and retailer are not making money.
“FMCG brands have ensured high margins for their businesses by streamlining and smoothing their supply chains over decades and making them cost-efficient,” said Anshuman Singh, founder and managing director, Stellar Value Chain Solutions.
Singh said in rural markets, the costs of supply chains were proportionately high due to lower volumes.
He added: “The low margins in the last leg of the FMCG rural supply chain make it difficult for new-age rural distribution players to offset the high costs.”
Devangshu Dutta, chief executive officer, Third Eyesight, a consultancy firm, said modern B2B (business-to-business) players had tried to step in to replace the traditional links in supply chains with price incentives and a large selection of products.
“Traditional distributors and wholesalers don’t just add costs but also add value, including aggregating demand for brands, disaggregating supplies for small retailers, providing market intelligence to both ends of the chain, and giving credit to retailers and a sort of financial guarantee for manufacturers,” Dutta said.
He said for their business models to work — online or offline — B2B businesses needed a significant concentration of demand, which had been tough to get in many locations.
On July 6, 2022, the Competition Commission of India (CCI), in the dispute between biscuit manufacturer Parle and B2B player Udaan, upheld the plea of the former, saying it did not violate competition laws. Parle had refused to sell its products directly to Udaan.
Udaan was the first B2B start-up to have a run-in with a well established brand, which was not interested in moving away from the traditional distribution model.
What has that meant for Udaan? It has meant tweaks to its business.
It further diversified its product portfolio so that its access to the market was not impacted.
It forayed into the mobile accessories segment as local brands tapped into its network of over 3 million retailers.
Earlier, this year it expanded its reach in the miller segment, which supplies staples like pulses, grains, wheat, rice, and oil.
Udaan aims to take on board about 100 miller partners per quarter.
It works with over 500 miller partners, supplying over 10,000 SKUs (stock-keeping units) to retailers and kirana owners, according to the company in an interaction with Business Standard.
The other company that recently had to tweak its business or go back to its focus on rural India is Pune-based ElasticRun.
B2B start-up ElasticRun has decided to focus on the core business and wind up its new expansion plans.
Backed by SoftBank and Prosus Venture, ElasticRun, which typically runs distribution for FMCGs in rural areas, decided to expand and also cater to retailers within city limits, i.e. tier 1 and tier 2 markets that had a strong distribution owing to companies having direct distribution in those areas.
“We initiated a pilot for urban markets. But through the year, as the macro changed, we decided not to pursue the urban pilot and focus on our core of rural business … we have to part ways with almost 2 per cent of our employees,” said Sandeep Deshmukh, co-founder and chief executive officer, ElasticRun, in an earlier interaction with Business Standard.
ElasticRun extends the reach of the brands’ direct distribution networks to deep rural markets. It enables access to a set of net new stores and customers, who were not accessible through traditional distribution networks.
The need to spend in order to get market share has caused well-entrenched players like Amazon to pull out of some of its distribution business.
Amazon India has decided to shut down Amazon Distribution, according to sources. This follows its recent decision to close down its food delivery and edtech offers. The moves are part of the annual operating planning review process amid global macroeconomic uncertainties. The e-commerce giant is looking to focus on its core businesses, sources said.
Amazon Distribution operates a platform where sellers sell FMCGs and apparel products from companies and distribute them among kiranas and small neighbourhood stores.
However, this unit operated in only three cities of Karnataka — Bengaluru, Mysuru, and Hubbali.
(Published in Business Standard)