More than Being Human

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December 25, 2014

Sharleen D’souza , Business Standard
New Delhi, 25 December 2014

Mandhana Retail Ventures, the retail arm of Mandhana Industries, which holds the licence for the brand Being Human, plans to dig its heels in building more brands. While its parent company exports textile and garments to popular global apparel brands, Being Human was its first brush with retailing in its home market. Licensed out by a charitable trust under the same name set up by Bollywood actor Salman Khan, the Mumbai-based garment and textile manufacturing company demerged the retail business in November, 2014.

It has set the stage for the company to launch more retail brands. It has a three-pronged plan for Mandhana Retail to expand – extend Being Human into more categories, sign licensing deals with global brands and even flag off a home-grown brand of its own.

Being Human, which currently has more than 500 points of sale, appears to have instilled the confidence in Mandhana’s promoters to forge out on their own in apparel retail in India, which is not only crowded but also unorganised to a large extent.

“Retail is here to stay, it does require a different mindset and skills. But with Being Human, we have gained that confidence and now plan to start our own brands, as well as get into licensing deals due to the good prospects they offer, and to give value to our shareholders,” says Manish Mandhana, MD of Mandhana Industries.

Mandhana’s, the textile division already exports to big brands overseas like H&M, Marks & Spencers, Abercrombie & Fitch and Banana Republic. It also retails Being Human abroad-Europe, West Asia, South Africa and Sri Lanka, notching up a global presence through shop-in-shops.

Licensing of international apparel brands already has players with considerable clout in the business. There is Reliance Brands (RIL) and Arvind Lifestyle Brands are some of the well-established players. “Mandhana Industries supplies apparel to many international brands and this will help the company get its foot in the door. But beyond that, it will have to show capabilities. There is a huge opportunity in the market to bring in more brands and create home-grown brands but these depend on the organisational capabilities, and management of multi-product portfolios. Mandhana has shown it has what it takes to make a brand grow with Being Human,” says Devangshu Dutta, CEO of the retail and consumer consultancy Third Eyesight.

Mandhana Retail Ventures has the licence to handle the retail, designing, manufacturing and marketing of Being Human till March, 2020. It has also started to offering clothing for women and kids under the brand. In the next six to eight months, the collection’s accessories arm (includes belts, wallets and slippers so far) will be strengthened. Accessories in fashion enjoy considerable higher margins in general, and for Being Human, contributes 10 per cent to its topline (other apparel with accessory lines often see revenues from accessories at 5-7 per cent according to industry observers). A greater focus could take the accessories contribution to 30 per cent in the next two years, estimates the company.

Prashant Agarwal, joint-managing director of Wazir Advisors agrees that, “The company needs to focus not only on the charitable part of Being Human, but also increase the fashion quotient of the apparel brand. Being Human has become a strong brand but the product’s value will be enhanced when design is given due importance.”

The company also sees 15 per cent of revenues come from e-commerce. “You can’t disregard e-commerce, it forms a considerable part of our retailing; we are present across most websites like Flipkart, Myntra, Jabong and will take Being Human to other sites as well,” says Manish.

In 2013-14, retail for Mandhana clocked Rs 132 crore in revenue and the company hopes to see it grow by 30 to 40 per cent in FY-15. Experts say that de-merging the retail business is a logical step for a textile company which has stepped into retail and this will help improve the valuation of the company.

“It helps to keep both the businesses separate as both have different requirements. Also, it will not create unnecessary competition amongst the employees,” says Agarwal. The company also needs to focus on which brands it plans to tie up with to arrive at a clear positioning, says Agarwal.

(Published in Business Standard)

More niche acquisitions likely in e-commerce sector, say analysts

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December 19, 2014

Arpita Mukherjee, Business Today

New Delhi , 19 December 2014

In a bid to strengthen their presence in the e-commerce sector, large players such as Amazon, Snapdeal and Flipkart are likely to look at acquiring companies with niche, differential capabilities, say industry analysts.

With the recent acquisition of gifting technology platform Wishpicker by Snapdeal and reports about its acquisition of online order management platform Unicommerce, experts feel e-commerce players are looking to benefit from the vertical capabilities that such companies have on offer.

"Snapdeal will be able to leverage Unicommerce’s platforms to achieve in-depth visibility into its vendor profiles in terms of both inventory and accounts as well as improve its customer services," says Sanchit Vir Gogia, Chief Analyst and CEO, Greyhound Research.

Snapdeal is flush with cash after recently receiving $627 million in funding from Softbank. The online retailer earlier this year also acquired social product discovery technology platform Doozton.com.

With Flipkart acquiring Myntra this year, and several other acquisitions that have been taking place over the past couple of years, this seems to be one of the trends emerging in the industry, says Devangshu Dutta, CEO of consulting firm Third Eyesight. "The key word is differential, because the generic ones have already happened to a certain extent," says Dutta.

Arvind Singhal, Chairman of Technopak Advisors, says that as investment dries up for the several niche smaller players who have been unable to show growth, these are likely to be snapped up by the bigger players. "We will see that happen more in the next few months," says Singhal. "Amazon, Flipkart, Snapdeal will start looking for specialty players, or very niche specialty players, either for the market, or for technology."

Analysts also note that while this kind of consolidation helps establish one or a few clear winners, it is not good for the industry as a whole.

According to Harminder Sahni, Managing Director of consultancy Wazir Advisors, for any industry to strive there needs to be a lot of players, creativity and lots of new ideas. And, primarily driven by investor interest, with these kinds of acquisitions, the industry is likely to go the modern retail way where there are only a few players such as Shoppers Stop and Future Group. "(Investors) are not interested in building a large ecosystem where a lot of players strive. They want to have a winner and they all want to be a part of that winner," says Sahni.

(Published in Business Today)

Big e-tailers like Flipkart, Snapdeal getting richer; Zovi, Yepme yet to touch Rs 100 cr in sales

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December 18, 2014

Sagar Malviya & Snigdha Sengupta, The Economic Times
Mumbai, 18 December 2014

Despite an online shopping frenzy in the country and large investors stepping in to fund several online retailers, most e-commerce players are yet to turn their click-and-buy model into big businesses as the big ones steal the show.

While nearly half a dozen shopping portals such as Zovi, FashionandYou, Yepme and Shopclues have doubled their sales since the last two years, they are yet to reach the Rs 100 croresales mark, and pale against the likes of Flipkart, Snapdeal and Jabong that clocked anywhere between Rs 500 crore-Rs 2,800 crore in sales for 2013-14, according to filings with the Registrar of Companies.

India, one of the fastest-growing ecommerce markets, is expected to have 100 million online shoppers by 2016 when the industry will grow to $15 billion, or about Rs 93,000 crore, up from 35 million consumers and $3-billion valuation this year, according to a recent Google report. Yet, in a highly competitive marketplace, where big discounts are the primary sales drivers for online retailers, many small players are struggling to gain ground.

"For every successful online retailer, there are at least 10 others which have either shut shop or got acquired," said Devangshu Dutta, chief executive at retail consultancy Third Eyesight.

He said just selling at lower rates isn’t enough for small players at a time large players flushed with funds aggressively look to grab market share through deep discounting. "Smaller players should have some key differentiator so that customers can give business to them instead of competition," Dutta said.

In fact, with small players forced to match discounts offered by bigger rivals, most of these firms reported higher losses, some even posting half their overall sales as net loss. VAS Services, which runs Yepme portal, posted a net loss of Rs 45 crore on net sales of Rs 61 crore last fiscal, while the net loss of Shopclues at Rs 38 crore was higher than its net sales of .`30.5 crore. But investors are still upbeat about ecommerce players, due to the huge growth opportunity.

"Investors are still willing to pay fairly healthy valuations for some of the smaller players in the market," said an investor who has backed a private label e-tailer.

"Compared to other developed markets, e-commerce entry valuations in India are still relatively attractive," the person added.

Some small players did manage to improve their performance though. Robemall’s Zovi, which more than doubled its sales in FY14 to Rs 51 crore from Rs 21 crore in the previous year, reduced its net loss to Rs 19 crore from Rs 34 crore during this period. FashionandYou, a flash sales site of Delhi-based Goldsquare sales, also managed to reduce losses to Rs 20 crore in FY14 from Rs 77.9 crore in the previous year as it consolidated its business after acquiring fashion and beauty e-tailor Urbantouch a year ago.

"The focus throughout the year was to bring efficiency and cut down cost that included trimming down the employees from 1,000 to 300 people," said Aasheesh Mediratta, CEO of FashionandYou, which posted a 21% decline in sales at Rs 75 crore due to the reorganisation.

(Published in The Economic Times)

eBay lags behind Amazon and Flipkart in commission revenues

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December 16, 2014

Sagar Malviya, The Economic Times
Mumbai, 16 December 2014

eBay India, one of the earliest online marketplaces in the country, has slipped behind both Flipkart and Amazon on revenues from seller commissions as its two rivals along with Snapdeal have been aggressively pushing sales with big discounting events and high-decibel marketing.
eBay India posted revenues or income of Rs 107 crore calculated on commission earned from sellers along with advertising revenues for fiscal 2013-14, according to its annual filing to the Registrar of Companies.
In comparison, Amazon Seller Services posted revenues of Rs 169 crore and Flipkart Internet that manages the portal reported income of Rs 179 crore. A year earlier, eBay’s revenue was Rs 81 crore while Flipkart trailed with Rs 15.4 crore.
These numbers are not sales from actual goods sold on their portals but are transaction and listing fees from the sellers as well as advertising revenue which is the actual revenue of e- commerce sites. eBay declined to comment on its financials.
While eBay and Amazon don’t disclose income from merchandise sales, Flipkart India, the website’s wholesale arm, said sales more than doubled to Rs 2,846 crore in the year ended March 2014, against Rs 1,180 crore in the previous year.

Experts feel that the aggressive strategy of Flipkart, Snapdeal and Amazon has affected most others including eBay.

"These three companies are playing a game for market dominance and their aggressive stance has taken options away from rivals," said Devangshu Dutta, CEO at retail consultancy Third Eyesight.

"These Indian players (Flipkart and Snapdeal) are funded well to continue that strategy while Amazon seems to have clearly seen a huge opportunity in India," he added.

In July, Amazon announced it would invest $2 billion (approx Rs 12,400 crore) in the company’s India operations that have exceeded gross merchandise sales of more than $1 billion within a year of the launch.

San Jose-based eBay bought local auction platform baazee.com for $55 million (about Rs. 344 crore) to enter India back in 2004, at a time when online retail was unheard of in most of the country.

The Indian e-commerce industry picked up in a big way in the last couple of years, triggered by deep discounting strategy from newer players even if that meant incurring heavy losses.

Soaring sales and rising losses bear witness to this. Combined losses of Bangalorebased Flipkart, Delhi-based Snapdeal and Amazon India was more than Rs 985 crore for the last fiscal. Flipkart and Snapdeal — which counts eBay, Azim Premji and Ratan Tata as investors — together sold goods worth more than $4 billion. eBay India has been mostly lying low and hasn’t been actively participating in recent mega sale events. Yet, the company has posted Rs 83 crore net loss during year to March 2014, a 15% increase from a year ago period.

Frequent change in its leadership team may have also affected eBay. Its current managing director Latif Nathani is its fourth India head in the past five years.

Parent company eBay Inc is trying to sort out issues in its home market by spinning off its PayPal unit into a separate business in an attempt to negate the slowing growth of traditional marketplace business.

Experts, however, aren’t discounting eBay India yet and feel the Indian online retail market, which is estimated to grow over four-fold to touch $14.5 billion (over Rs 88,000 crore) by 2018 can absorb a handful of large players including eBay.

(Published in The Economic Times)

Global brands change partners for more reach in India

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December 12, 2014

Vijaya Rathore, The Economic Times

New Delhi, 12 December 2014

Brioni, a luxury menswear brand from Italy, is currently looking for the "perfect" location in a south Delhi upscale mall to open a store, almost after a year it shut down its earlier store located inside a five-star hotel.

Store location is not the only change that Brioni has initiated in the country. It has found a new partner to sell its jackets, ties and shirts in India.

Another luxury brand, Etro, is holding talks with a number of retailers in India to make a comeback, after it split ways with Genesis Luxury and all the India stores were shut last year.

A host of popular brands, including Ferrari, Bang & Olufsen, Montblanc, Etro, Brioni and Bulgari are revisiting their India business plans by tweaking one of the most important factors – the local partner. Reasons differ. It could either be inefficiency of the existing partner to infuse new energy and money in the business, or the desire to take control of the operations by choosing someone docile.

Iconic jewellery brand Bulgari has formed a joint venture with a new "silent partner" with an aim to have better control over its operations in this market.

"Our ambition in India is much higher than before," Bulgari chief executive office Jean Christophe Babin told ET on his recent visit to India. The decision to make direct investments in this market, instead of simply relying on a franchise partner is like "pressing the reboot button". Bulgari had ended its seven-year relationship with Mumbai-based Dia Group’s Lifestyle Tradelinks India in 2011. Likewise, Ferrari has hooked up with Yadur Kapur, a dealer of luxury cars for the Delhi market and Navnit Motors in Mumbai, splitting with Delhibased Shreyans Group.

Kapur, who is working on a plan to open a new showroom, sales and service centre for Ferrari in Delhi, says, "The brand will now be represented in the right way in the country." One of his focus areas would also be to make sure that the company sent enough cars to India to match demand and that the buyers don’t have to wait too long.

Experts point out that the change in partnerships was partly due to the natural lifecycle of a relationship between the two parties, apart from other factors. "Many pacts were originally signed for a limited period, and when that time passes, people move on," says said Devangshu Dutta, chief executive at retail consultancy Third Eyesight.

Also, as brands become more serious about the market, they revisit everything in order to infuse a fresh lease of life into the business.

"When international brands realise the importance of India and sense that the existing partner may not have the capacity, interest or potential to address the same, they move on," adds Dutta.

Etro, for example, is one of the brands looking for a new partner to conduct business in India. "We have had a meeting with them," said a senior executive of one of the top luxury retailers in India who did not wish to be identified.

Some separations are bitter. Former cricketer and businessman Dilip Doshi and Montblanc are fighting a legal battle amid allegations of fraud and deceit. Doshi claims that Montblanc pulled out of a possible joint venture at the last minute and terminated its distribution and franchise agreements in March this year.

Earlier this year, Montblanc announced a 51:49 joint venture to setup single-brand retail stores with Titan Industries, a Tata Group company.

Similarly, Brioni and Badasaab Designs (retailer of Brioni in India) went to court against each other and the legal tussle went on for some time. "A mutual settlement has been reached between the two," said a person aware of the development. Brioni is understood to have finalised OSL Luxury, which sells Corneliani menswear in India, as its new partner. OSL executives, however, did not comment on the development.

New Partners, New Plans

To begin with, most brands are working on re-establishing a retail presence besides enhancing brand visibility and "consumer experience."

Denmark-based high-end entertainment systems maker Bang & Olufsen (B&O) for instance has just opened a single-brand store in Delhi, and so has Bulgari. Ferrari and Brioni are doing the same. "We also have access to outside investment to expand B&O’s business in India," said Gaganmeet Singh, director of BeoWorld.

For the Bulgari CEO, it was important to take control of India’s operations."Though we have a partner here, we are behind the driving wheel," Babin said.

It’s not the first time brands are shuffling their relationships. In 2009, Gucci parted ways with its old franchisee Vijay Murjani and moved to a franchise agreement with investment banker Ashok Wadhwa’s Luxury Goods Retail.

Versace, is now with Infinite Luxury, but was earlier retailed by Blues Clothing Company in India. In 2012, Giorgio Armani ended its joint venture with DLF Brands to get into a deal with Genesis Luxury, run by Sanjay Kapoor.

A recent Euromonitor report said that India was the fastest-growing emerging market for luxury goods. The country’s luxury market will grow 86 per cent in constant value terms between 2013 and 2018, while China, Malaysia and Indonesia are expected to grow 74 per cent, 62 per cent and 59 per cent, respectively, over the period. India’s luxury market was expected to reach $14.73 billion by 2015 from an estimated $8.21 billion last year, with about 30 per cent of the customers coming from smaller cities.

(Published in The Economic Times)