Zara becomes the fastest apparel brand in India to cross $100-million sales mark

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July 16, 2015

Sagar Malviya, The Economic Times

Mumbai, 10 July 2015

Spanish fashion brand Zara has become the fastest apparel brand in India to cross the $100-million sales mark, five years after it opened its first shop here.

Inditex Trent, the joint venture between Zara brand owner Inditex and Tata Group’s retail arm Trent, posted 24% annual growth in sales for the year ended March 2015 at Rs 721 crore ($114 million), Trent said in its annual report released on Thursday. In FY13-14, it had sales of Rs 580 crore. However, sales growth has nearly halved from a year ago period when, it was 43%.

Plans are on to open a few more Zara stores in India over the next three to four years in the major cities, the report said. The primary challenge to faster expansion is the availability of high quality retail spaces, which can be expected to generate reasonable sales throughput, it added.

With 16 stores now, average sales per store of Zara is about Rs 45 crore a year, far more than top apparel brands such as Louis Philippe, Levi’s and Marks & Spencer, and even slightly higher than department store chains Shoppers Stop and Lifestyle. Its closest rivals in India — Benetton (wholesale) and Levi’s — had posted around Rs 599 crore each in sales a year ago and haven’t declared their FY14-15 numbers yet. Analysts don’t expect them to overtake Zara though.

“Zara has set a benchmark in terms of both growth and profitability. What has helped it is the brand’s desirability and connect with consumers,” said Devangshu Dutta, chief executive at retail consultancy Third Eyesight. Industry executives said Zara’s per-square-feet sales must have dropped as the novelty factor fades off in bigger markets, especially in Delhi and Mumbai.

Most of Zara’s back-end and merchandise sourcing are handled by Inditex, while the Tata expertise is mainly for identifying real estate and locations. Inditex Trent has replicated in India a model that has worked for Zara globally — creating affordable, copycat versions of the latest fashions or designer wear and making them available to shoppers in double-quick time. Inditex controls almost every bit of its operations, from design to distribution.

If a new style is not a hit within a week, it goes off the shelves of over 2,000 Zara stores worldwide. The brand will face intense competition from similarly-priced, fast fashion rivals such as Gap, which entered a month ago and H&M, which will launch stores soon. As the world’s second most populated country, India is an attractive market for international brands, especially since youngsters in the country are increasingly embracing western-style clothing.

(Published in The Economic Times.)

An uphill climb

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July 13, 2015

Ankita Rai, Business World

New Delhi, 13 July 2015

To take advantage of the growing demand in the entry-level premium car segment, Maruti Suzuki India (MSIL) has just unveiled a new chain of dealership under the Nexa brand to showcase its premium offerings. MSIL’s desire to serve the premium end of the market is not new – over the years it has launched two products, the Grand Vitara SUV and premium sedan Kizashi, to woo this market segment. Unfortunately, these brands have not been able to make the kind of impact the country’s largest carmaker had hoped for. In a renewed push, MSIL has launched a new brand, S-Cross, and is now overhauling its distribution network.

MSIL is not the first one to try this. Globally, carmakers Nissan, Toyota and Honda have similar distribution models, wherein they sell their luxury cars under Infiniti, Lexus and Acura brands respectively.

And why single out automotive companies? Closer home, players like VIP Industries and Cafe Coffee Day (CCD) have treaded a similar path – matching the premium quotient of a product with the manner in which it is presented to the customer. VIP Industries has a separate chain for its premium brand Carlton, while CCD currently has three different formats for three different customer segments. Says Samit Sinha, managing partner, Alchemist Brand Consulting, "A big part of the experience is, who else is in the showroom. We don’t want to rub shoulders with people whom we don’t think are like us."

Distribution, therefore, becomes crucial for a volume brand trying to climb the ladder to premiumness. So how can a brand gear its distribution to successfully climb the value chain?

Not everyone’s cup of tea: Devangshu Dutta

For mass-segment businesses desiring to move up the price curve, it is important to create new channels that can stand apart from the previous offerings and, if feasible, to create entirely different brands as well.

From the consumer’s point of view, the expected purchase experience and service levels at the higher price point need to be better. So merely allocating a segment of the existing distribution network will not be enough. The store for the new premium product needs to feel complete in itself. Separate channels are also vital to achieve a service-cost balance and to have consistency within any specific outlet.

However, the biggest challenge to a premiumisation attempt by a mass brand is outside its control – whether consumers will accept that new offering as truly premium even though it is from the stable of a mass brand.

Having a critical mass is another significant challenge, as the investments in creating and maintaining a premium offering would be significant. The third challenge is creating a culture and processes, at least for a premium-dedicated team that will be alien to the rest of the organisation. This requires willingness to invest, patience and sponsorship at the highest levels of the organisation’s leadership.

Devangshu Dutta
Chief executive, Third Eyesight

Premium is what premium does

"Maruti has been in the business of selling cars for almost 31 years. The market has evolved and consumer expectations are changing," says RS Kalsi, executive director, marketing and sales, MSIL. "Many of them are third-generation buyers – young achievers who are looking to upgrade to bigger cars."

To woo this customer, the country’s largest car maker will drop the ‘Maruti’ name from the bootlids of its premium products. So the Ciaz and the S-Cross and the forthcoming YBA compact SUV will only see the ‘Suzuki’ part of the badge. The ‘Maruti’ badge doesn’t command enough brand value in the premium (Rs 10 lakh-plus) segment, say experts, and that is where the "Suzuki" or "S" tag will bring in some "pulling" power.

The company also understands that having a handful of new brands will not serve the purpose. The way they are showcased and the manner in which consumer queries are handled will be make or break. It is looking two sort this issue with a two-pronged approach. First, as we have mentioned, the new products will be retailed through a chain distinct from its earlier one. Second, the company will train a new set of people to cater to the needs of the premium consumer.

To begin with, MSIL has hired people from service sectors like hospitality, aviation and financial services and has roped in Dale Carnegie to coach relationship managers on soft skills. These managers are being given product and experiential training, which includes travel by air and luxury hotel stays, so as to acclimatise them with the way the new consumer thinks and acts. So far, MSIL has trained 700 people and plans to train 2,000 more. This financial year, MSIL will roll out 100 showrooms. "Around 70 to 75 per cent of the sales come from top 30 cities and we are targeting them with our new offerings," says Kalsi.

The Nexa showrooms boast of separate lounge areas for customers, a personal relationship manager for the entire lifecycle of the product, paperless interaction and so on. "We want to make the customer feel pampered," says Kalsi.

A sound strategy, going by auto experts. "The maximum growth is at the entry level premium segment, which MSIL has targeted. In this segment, one must note that the ‘brand’ makes more difference than the ‘product’," says Abdul Majeed, partner, PriceWaterhouseCoopers. In a way, MSIL will take the route VIP Industries has taken earlier with its Carlton range, targeted at the premium segment of business travelers. Indeed, VIP doesn’t offer all its products across all channels. It has five luggage brands in its portfolio: Caprese, Carlton, Skybags, Alfa, Aristocrat and Footloose. The premium brand Carlton is available at only at 350 touchpoints, while VIP brands are available at 4,500 touch points. The reason is the same: premium brands demand a premium atmosphere. "We offer Carlton only at our VIP premium lounges. Even at these lounges, there is a separate section for Carlton. We are also opening exclusive stores for Carlton," says Sudip Ghose, vice-president, marketing, VIP Industries. Currently, there is one exclusive Carlton store at the Mumbai Airport and the company will launch another one at the Delhi Airport soon. Carlton contributes 5 to 6 per cent of VIP’s sales and is growing at 40 per cent annually.

VIP also realises that training the sales staff at showrooms is important. "You have to have SEC A, serving SEC A," says Ghose. "The sales managers at premium stores need to be groomed for retail so that he/she asks the right questions when interacting with consumers." For instance, when selling a premium brand, you don’t ask the customer her budget.

Ghose admits it is difficult to ‘turn’ a volume brand into a premium one. "It is better to start afresh without any baggage," adds Ghose, no pun intended.

Coffee chain Cafe Coffee Day (CCD), which has developed multiple formats to differentiate customer segments (such as CCD targeting the value-conscious youth, The Lounge targeting affluent customers and The Square catering to coffee connoisseurs), believes focusing on the uniqueness of the offering and experience are the pillars on which one ought to position a premium brand. "The most important consideration before a brand gets into a premium slot is to evaluate the brand stretch-ability," says Bidisha Nagaraj, group president, marketing, CCD.

CCD’s The Square sets itself apart on service and ambience. The outlet design is minimalist and the furniture contemporary. There are seven Square outlets currently.

Two sides to the coin

Given the high stakes, some experts warn brands from being dazzled by the lure of premiumness. "Most Indian brands fail to recognise that you don’t necessarily have to serve the whole spectrum of the market because it looks attractive," says Saurabh Uboweja, brand strategist and CEO, Brands of Desire.

"If you are true to your definition and keep upgrading brand experiences around your core, you will succeed in the long-term."

In any case, changing consumer perception about a brand is a tough call. "In case of MSIL, the biggest challenge would be how successfully it is able to change the perception of being a budget, family car manufacturer," says Amit Kaushik, principal analyst, IHS Automotive.

Yes, there is a way to do it like VIP has done – by having a different brand altogether. Samsonite, on its part, acquired luxury US brand Hartmann after it failed to create its own luxury brand Black Label. "If Tata Motors created a luxury buying experience in a new dealer format and put the Jaguars to sell underneath, you can imagine the kind of brand dilution it would cause to Jaguar," muses Uboweja. "The secret to long-term sustainable equity creation is "let your brands be, make them strong, make them relevant but don’t change them."

That perhaps is the reason for calling the S-Cross just that and reserving the Maruti-Suzuki tag for the range spanning Alto 800 to the Swift DZire.

(Published in Business Standard.)

Three Aditya Birla apparel brands zoom past Rs1,000 crore in revenue

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July 13, 2015

Sapna Agarwal, MINT

Mumbai, 13 July 2015

Three brands from Madura Fashion and Lifestyle, a unit of Aditya Birla Group company Aditya Birla Nuvo Ltd, crossed the Rs.1,000 crore revenue mark in terms of consumer price in fiscal 2015. Fiscal 2016 will see two brands from Arvind Ltd’s retail unit Arvind Lifestyle Brands Ltd cross the same milestone.

Consumer price is the price at which the product is sold to the consumer. It could be lower than the maximum retail price (MRP) as it takes discounts into account.

“More and more brands are now crossing the Rs.1,000 crore mark. In the next two-three years, we will have at least 10 brands of this size,” said Devangshu Dutta, chief executive officer, Third Eyesight, a retail consultancy firm, pointing to brands such as Levi’s, Benetton and Zara.

It took brands such as Louis Philippe, Van Heusen and Peter England, from Madura Fashion and Lifestyle, 10-15 years to get to Rs.500 crore. However, their journey towards revenues of Rs.1,000 crore happened in less than five years, said Ashish Dixit, president, Madura Fashion and Lifestyle, who now expects it to take even less time for them to get to Rs.1,500 crore. Louis Philippe will reach Rs.1,500 crore in revenues next year, said Dixit, adding that in the next two to three years, the company will have three Rs.1,500 crore brands in its portfolio.

From Arvind Lifestyle’s portfolio, US Polo and Arrow have revenues of close to Rs.850 crore and will reach Rs.1,000 crore this fiscal year, said chief executive J. Suresh.

Brands are reaching the Rs.500 crore mark in a shorter time now and scaling to Rs.1,000 crore from there even faster, said experts.

Los Angeles-based Forever 21, launched in India two years ago, will reach Rs.500 crore in fiscal 2016, said Dipak Agarwal, chief executive of DLF Brands Ltd, the joint venture partner for the brand in India. From there, it will be another three years for the brand to hit Rs.1,000 crore revenue, said Agarwal.

Currently, there are nine Forever 21 stores in India and the retailer plans to add five to six every year. On average, each Forever 21 store does business of Rs.35 crore per year, said Agarwal.

Last year, Arvind Lifestyle also announced partnerships with US retailer Gap Inc. and speciality retailer The Children’s Place.

“Weare targeting revenues of Rs.1,000 crore for Gap and Rs.500 crore for The Children’s Place in the next four to five years,” said Suresh in an earlier interview to Mint.

Inditex Trent Retail India Pvt. Ltd, the joint venture between Inditex SA and Tata Group company Trent Ltd for retail chain Zara in India, posted 24% annual growth in sales for the year ended March 2015 at Rs.721 crore ($114 million), The Economic Times said on Friday, citing Trent’s annual report released on Thursday.

Zara, which has been in the country for five years, could be one of the first international brands to hit the Rs.1,000 crore mark, said Dutta.

To be sure, some brands, such as Benetton, have franchises in India and hence report their sales at wholesale value, which is lower than the sales of brands that report at MRP or consumer price, such as Zara.

(Published in MINT.)

Retail Chains Lobby Minister Against 100 Per Cent FDI In E-Commerce

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July 9, 2015

Gurbir Singh and Vishal Krishna, Businessworld

New Delhi/Bengaluru, 9 July 2015

As many as 12 big retailers, including Future Group, Landmark, Shoppers Stop and Globus, met Commerce Minister Nirmala Sitharaman in New Delhi on Wednesday and pitched strongly against the Union government’s proposal to grant 100 per cent foreign direct investment (FDI) status to e-commerce and e-tailing companies.

Led by Future Group CEO Kishore Biyani and Shoppers Stop vice chairman B.S. Nagesh, organised retailers demanded a level playing field between the brick-and-mortar retail industry and e-commerce.

They also presented a memorandum highlighting the violations and what they call "malpractices" of e-tailing giants like Flipkart and Amazon, who they claim have made a mockery of the current 49 per cent cap on FDI in organised retail.

"It was a good meeting. The minister gave us a long and patient hearing. We asked her: On what grounds was the government discriminating between physical retail and technology-based ecommerce?" Kishore Biyani told BW Businessworld.

The Commerce Ministry has lined up a series of consultations with other stakeholders too. Sitharaman will meet e-tailing chains, including Flipkart, eBay and Snapdeal, on 10 July and the chief ministers of various states on 15 July before the issue is decided by the Union Cabinet.

E-tailers have raised Rs 24,000 or more and the digital purchase of consumer goods has been galloping over the last 2-3 years. Impressed by the growth figures, the government is sympathetically looking at a proposal to grant this sector "100 percent FDI" status.

"Investments will help e-tailers scale up to many more cities. Smartphone usage has been high and there is a clear trend that people will also shop from homes," says Vipul Parekh, co-founder of Big Basket.

Retailers’ Concerns However, the details of the Commerce Ministry’s intent are not yet out in the open. Retailers fear that if e-tailers are allowed better access to foreign capital, the level playing field between two types of consumer services will be disturbed and e-tailers will steal a march over access to supply chain logistics. The foreign monies raised by the e-tailers will enable them to create a strong warehouse-to-home connect, and they can even dominate in segments such as delivering fresh fruits and vegetables.

Perhaps the only thing keeping e-tailers from making a clean sweep would be the fact that 70 per cent of Indians live in rural areas where access to smart phones and computers is limited. Management consultant Gartner predicts that there will be more than 240 million smart phones bought per year by the Indian public. The total broadband penetration can double to 200 million by the same period. But consultants have mixed reactions.

"Policy in India cannot look at retailing in a western homogenous growth model. It surely cannot open up FDI without looking at the impact on socio-economic and cultural conditions," said Devangshu Dutta, CEO of Third Eyesight, a retail consultancy. He adds that the government needs to open up FDI in a phased manner.

This is true because over the last three years there has been a policy paralysis that has stalled the retail industry. The e-tailers Flipkart, Snapdeal and Amazon follow a market place model and yet end up losing more than Rs 9,700 crore on discounting and reverse logistics alone.

Hundred per cent FDI is allowed in market places. "The e-commerce industry needs a fillip and the government has already shown interest in making India an investor-friendly country," says Rajiv Khaitan, founder of Khaitan and Company, a law firm.

"Rentals have always eroded the business profits of brick and mortar retailers," says Sanchit Vir Gogia, CEO of Greyhound Research. He adds that with FDI only in e-tailing they, the brick and mortar retailers, can use their stores more effectively in delivering goods through their own e-tail channels across cities and towns. "It saves so much real estate cost that can directly go in to shareholders income in the long run," says Gogia.

Biyani, on the other hand, says the government’s definition of e-commerce as technology-based trading as basically flawed. "Don’t retailers like us use electronic technology to sell goods as well? Or, don’t e-tailing chains have a huge brick-and-mortar backend? So on what basis is the government favouring e-commerce as a special category?" Biyani asks.

The case of the retailers is that if the government wants to open 100 per cent FDI, it must do so for all retail trade, irrespective whether is sold through physical stores or through digital channels. This is something the Union government can do only if it willing to take on the wrath of several lakhs of mom and pop kirana stores in the country.

(Published in Businessworld.)

The delicious truth: India is one of the fastest growing chocolate markets in the world

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July 9, 2015

Madhura Karnik, Quartz India
New Delhi, 9 July 2015

India is working up a voracious appetite for chocolates.
A delectable combination of rising disposable incomes, changing lifestyles and a young population’s growing penchant for indulgence has transformed India into one of the world’s fastest growing chocolate markets.
A July report from French investment bank Societe Generale predicts that in the next five years, global confectioners will see the highest growth in four markets: India, Mexico, China and Brazil.

But it’s not just affluent Indians who are craving for chocolates, although they still comprise nearly 80% of country’s chocolate sales, according to Technopak, a retail consultancy. Lured by smaller, more affordable offerings, the rural hinterland and and tier 2 and 3 cities—still dominated by traditional Indian sweets—are developing quite a sweet tooth.

Overall, India’s per-capita spending on confectionery is tiny—and that means there’s plenty of room for growth.

Product play

In as early as 1998, India’s largest chocolate maker, Mondelez—earlier called Cadbury—introduced chocolate packets that cost as low as Rs5. This was mainly to persuade non-users to try the products and to penetrate into rural areas.

At the other end of the market, Mondelez is also expanding its range of premium chocolates for an urban clientele with a more international palette.

According to Prashant Peres, director, marketing (chocolates) at Mondelez India, to keep up with the growing demand in the premium segment, the company has introduced new products in recent months.

“With product and packaging innovations like our various home treat packs, we are also focusing on creating new consumption occasions in the mainstream segment,” Peres told Quartz in an email.

Alongside, the traditional notion that chocolates are meant only for children is also changing.

“Previously chocolates were predominantly seen as a confectionary product for children, which also limited their consumption. However, market leader Cadbury’s (Mondelez) has focussed on growing chocolate consumption by adults, for gifting as well as a celebratory consumption instead of traditional sweets,” said Devangshu Dutta, chief executive of Third Eyesight, a retail consultancy.

This has made it possible for other companies to bring niche products to the Indian market including premium chocolates (such as those by Ferrero Rocher) and imported products, Dutta told Quartz in an email.

Italy’s Ferrero Spa—makers of the popular Kinder Joy chocolates, Nutella chocolate spread, Ferrero Rocher chocolates and Tic Tac mints—has seen its revenue shoot up in India. In 2014, the company’s sales in India rose 76% to Rs1,014 crore ($160 million) and it posted its first-ever profit of Rs12 lakh ($18,931).

Such numbers have enticed others to join India’s chocolate craze. In March this year, Mars International India, a subsidiary of the American Mars Inc, announced that it will invest Rs1,005 crore ($159 million) in a new factory in Pune in Maharashtra. The plant will make brands like Snickers and Galaxy.

Factors such as rising cocoa prices and lack of supply-chain infrastructure in India have not exactly dampened the enthusiasm of chocolate makers.

“The chocolate industry in India is growing at nearly 20% every year,” MV Natarajan, general manager, Mars International India, said in a statement, “and we see this as a huge opportunity to expand our chocolate portfolio in the country in the coming years.”

For India’s chocolate makers and lovers alike, the fun has just begun.

(Published in Quartz India.)