D2C – Founders v Investors (video; panel discussion)

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August 30, 2024

In a startup world, founders are typically creators first while investors see themselves as the monitors. Therefore, conflicts between the two are almost a default feature of a relationship that in effect funds a dream. From ‘off’ chemistry to differences of opinion to what some founders see as shackles on entrepreneurial freedom, the reasons could be any or a mix of all. Watch this discussion, with a mega-panel of intense start-up founders on the one hand and investors with VC funds on the other, addressing the pain points on Cash, Control, Creativity, Chemistry and Culture in a supercharged encounter. Session Anchor, Devangshu Dutta (Founder, Third Eyesight) reflected, “Those who have heard classical music jugalbandi or witnessed jazz musicians jamming will appreciate the creative tension, the give and take that was the thread throughout this discussion, reflecting the reality of the relationship between entrepreneurs and VCs.”

Watch the video

INVESTORS:
Ankita Balotia, VP, Fireside Ventures
Aashish Vanigota, Principal – Investments, IvyCap Ventures Advisors Private Limited
Bhawna Bhatnagar, Co-founder, We Founder Circle
Nitya Agarwal, VP-Investments, 3one4 Capital
Harmanpreet Singh, Founder & Managing Partner, Prath Ventures
Vamshi Reddy, Partner, Kalaari Capital
Zoeb Ali Khan, Vice President, Sauce.vc

D2C FOUNDERS:
Abdus Samad, Founder, Sam & Marshall Eyewear
Akshay Mahendru, Co-Founder & CEO, The Pet Point & Nootie
Malvika Jain, Founder, SEREKO
Nitin Jain, Founder, Indigifts
Puneet Tyagi, Egoss Shoes
Radhika Dang, CEO & Founder, The Good Karma Company
Rahul Aggarwal, Coffeeza
Udit Toshniwal, Founder & Director, The Pant Project
Vaani Chugh, Co-founder & Director, D’chica
Yash Kotak, Co-founder, Bombay Hemp Co.
Yashesh Mukhi, Co-founder, Chupps

Big retailers, Reliance to Titan, slash jobs by 52,000 in FY24

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August 19, 2024

Sagar Malviya & Faizan Haidar, Economic Times
19 August 2024, Mumbai/New Delhi

About a dozen listed lifestyle, grocery retailers and quick-service restaurants (QSRs) reduced their employee count by nearly 26,000 in FY24, retreating from the hiring spree of the past two financial years after they slowed down store expansion rate amid weakening demand.

According to their latest annual reports, the reduction was completely led by five retailers – Reliance Industries’ retail arm, Titan, Raymond, Page and Spencers – which saw their combined workforce decline 17% or by 52,000 people. The staff count was across permanent and contractual employees and adjusted for attrition in the retail segment, the second largest employer after agriculture. These retailers had a combined workforce of 429,000 people in FY24 compared to 455,000 employees a year ago.

“There is a shortage of talent and we are trying to tie up with universities so that the industry has the option to hire. Some companies might have reduced staff due to shutting of some business, but companies like Shoppers Stop and Trent continue to expand and will require staff,” said Kumar Rajagopalan, CEO of Retailers Association of India that represents organised retailers in the country.

Consumers had started reducing non-essential spending such as that on apparel, lifestyle products, electronics and dining out since Diwali 2022 due to inflation, increase in interest rates, job losses in sectors like startups and IT, and an overall slowdown in the economy. India’s retail sales expansion slowed to 4% last year after a surge in spending across segments-from clothes to cars-in the post-pandemic period, triggered by revenge shopping.

RIL in its annual report said the overall voluntary separations in FY24 were lower than FY23 and the retail industry typically has a high employee turnover rate, especially in store operations.

“Store productivity usually happens in cycles and we have seen consumers unleash their spending post pandemic, which led to retailers expanding their network or square footage. However, if some of the stores are unviable, then management teams are now highly objective, even ruthless, and will shut stores,” said Devangshu Dutta, founder of retail consulting firm Third Eyesight. “In addition, any company planning to list would like to have healthy and lean operations, although we cannot pin-point it to Reliance in this case.”

Weak sales saw these retailers having the slowest pace of store expansions in at least five years at 9%. The retail sector took 7.1 million square feet of space across top eight cities in 2023, which is expected to dip to 6-6.5 million sq ft in 2024, according to commercial real estate services firm CBRE.

“There’s an enormous management bandwidth requirement to just get this entire ship running in the right trajectory, right direction, and with the relevant speed. We are thinking about what this company will be 10 years from now. And hence, if you want to reach there in a nice way without too much damage or bruises, then what is the kind of talent we need to have today in the next 2 years, in the next 3 years?” Avenue Supermarts CEO & MD Neville Noronha asked investors.

(Published in Economic Times)

Uniqlo India profit jumps 25%, sales growth declines

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August 10, 2024

Faizan Haidar, Economic Times
10 Aug 2024, New Delhi

Japanese apparel major Uniqlo’s sales growth in India slipped by more than half to a still-strong 32% last fiscal year while its net profit expanded by 25%.

The Indian unit of Asia’s biggest clothing brand posted a net profit of ₹85.1 crore for the year ended March 2024 with net revenues of ₹824 crore, according to its latest filing with the Registrar of Companies (RoC). Uniqlo India had posted a profit of ₹68.1 crore with sales of ₹625 crore in the previous year. Its on-year revenue growth was 69% in FY23 and 64% in FY22.

Uniqlo opened its first door in the country in September 2019, but lockdowns and other constraints during the Covid-19 pandemic delayed its store expansion plans. At present, it has about 13 outlets in the country. Overall retail sales growth rate across segments such as apparel, footwear and quick service restaurants (QSR) fell year-on-year every month in FY24, reflecting comparatively weaker consumer sentiment.

Last fiscal’s comparatively slower 4-7% growth rate sustained this year as well, with May and June seeing a 3% and 5% rise each, Retailers Association of India (RAI) recently said after a survey of top 100 retailers.

“The market was sluggish for the industry as a whole last year, and that will reflect in practice every brand P&L, whether Indian or international,” said Devangshu Dutta, chief executive of retail sector consultancy Third Eyesight. “However, any brand that is committed to the Indian market as a strategic market for its future growth will take the ups and downs in its stride,” he said.

“Uniqlo’s expansion plans now include store sizes that would be smaller both in the cities it is already present in and in newer cities, which should help it tap into the demand at operating costs that are appropriate to each location,” Dutta said. Inditex Trent, Spanish fast-fashion major Zara’s joint venture with Tata that runs 23 stores in the country, saw its revenue rise 8% to ₹2,775 crore last fiscal, significantly down from 40% growth a year earlier, according to Trent’s annual report. Its net profit fell 8% on year to ₹244 crore.

Over the past decade, global brands Zara and H&M have become market leaders in the fast fashion segment in India.

Uniqlo has said India is one of the most priority markets where consumers are increasingly shifting from ‘fast fashion’ to long-lasting essentials and functional wear. As the world’s second most-populated country, India is an attractive market for apparel brands, especially with youngsters increasingly embracing western-style clothing.

Uniqlo is globally popular for functional basics like T-shirts, jeans and woollen wear, unlike fast-fashion rivals which are associated with designs that move quickly from the catwalk to the showroom.

(Published in Economic Times)

Popees: The baby care brand from Kerala taking on global rivals

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August 9, 2024

Manu Balachandran, Forbes India

9 August 2024

If it hadn’t been for a kind manager at Canara Bank in Malappuram district of Kerala, Shaju Thomas would have probably continued being a journalist.

It was around 2005, and Thomas had wanted a loan of ₹10 lakh from the bank, the only SME (small and medium enterprise) branch in his district, to keep his entrepreneurial venture going. The manager, impressed by the 26-year-old’s perseverance, finally decided to take a gamble on him, even though his predecessor had thought otherwise.

“It was God’s intervention,” Thomas says about that time. “If it weren’t for that money, Popees wouldn’t have existed today.” Today, Thomas runs Popees Baby Care, a business that rakes in well over ₹100 crore a year and has become one of Kerala’s best-known brands in a little over two decades. The company produces everything from clothes to soaps and diapers, retailing them through 70 exclusive outlets and some 8,000 other retail outlets across the country.

Three other stores, all in the Middle East, are being readied this year, which will see Popees go head-to-head with some of the world’s leading baby care brands in malls across Dubai, Abu Dhabi and Sharjah. “I am a believer in Indian cotton being the best,” Thomas tells Forbes India from his office in Thiruvali in Kerala. “Indian manufacturing is also the best. That gives me the confidence. I am obsessed with quality, and that’s at the centre of everything we do. Money is only secondary.”

Last year, Popees posted annual revenues of ₹122 crore and is now setting sights on a topline of ₹250 crore by 2025, before growing to ₹1,000 crore by 2027. The brand sells garments between 18,000 kg and 22,000 kg a month and employs over 1,400 people at its two factories in Kerala and Karnataka. “I am in this business not to make huge gains and profits,” says Thomas, managing director of Popees Baby Care. “We are in the business of baby care, and we must be very careful about everything we do because it involves babies. What I want is satisfaction at the end of the day.”

Last year, Thomas and his wife, Linta Jose, acquired a majority stake in Chennai-based publicly traded Archana Software Limited and renamed the company as Popees Cares Limited. Now, the privately held Popees Baby Care will merge with Popees Cares Limited, before raising private placements, as the company targets aggressive growth in the coming years.

“This year, we are not being very aggressive,” Thomas says. “We want to focus on the listing and merger. We also want to premiumise our collections because our customer profiles are changing. There are more premium customers coming into the market. What we are focussed on is an Ebidta margin of between 34 and 38 percent.” Ebitda refers to earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation, and amortisation.

India’s childcare product market is expected to grow between 13 and 14 percent annually to ₹5.4 lakh crore by 2028, with younger parents focusing on branded apparel and consumables, according to a report by Redseer Consultancy. It also helps that India is the world’s most populous country, and has one of the highest birth rates globally, with 16 births per thousand people, almost 1.5 times that of developed countries. A growing Tier II and III market only adds to the potential for companies such as Popees.

“Global brands carry with them the momentum and visibility that has been built over decades, which translates into trust as well as aspirational value,” says Devangshu Dutta, founder and CEO of Third Eyesight. “But in many cases their pricing is higher than what would be affordable for most Indian consumers. Therefore, there is space for Indian companies to create strong brands that address both factors, trust and value.”

Taking the Risk
Thomas has always had an entrepreneurial streak in him and began venturing out on his own after school. Much of that, he says, is hereditary, coming from a family that had been in business, supplying rubber to the likes of MRF. Passionate about photography, Thomas had set up a small studio in Nilambur, his hometown in Kerala that is known for its teak wood, after his schooling.

Simultaneously, he studied economics before going on to finish his diploma in journalism from the Calicut Press Club in 2000. “Nobody wanted to study economics back then,” Thomas says. “Now it’s in huge demand. But I realised the importance of studying concepts such as scarcity, demand, and supply, now.”

After his graduation in journalism, Thomas picked up work with the Malayalam newspaper, Mangalam, and was soon posted to the hills of Wayanad. Around the same time, he invested in a baby care shop in Manjeri, a town near Kozhikode in Kerala. “I knew there was potential in the sector,” Thomas says.

Being an investor made him aware of the nuances involved in the baby care segment. To begin with, there were no brands, and clothes were often brought in bulk from garment manufacturing units and sold in the state for as little as ₹5. “Very often, these clothes would come in big cartons with naphthalene balls and smelled of sulfur,” Thomas says. “And regardless of that, they sold like hot cakes. Sometimes, people would come from hospitals after childbirth, pick up these clothes, and make the newborn wear them.”

That’s when Thomas realised the massive underlying opportunity in manufacturing good quality, branded clothes for children. “There were big brands for everybody except kids,” Thomas says. He soon packed his bags and went off to Tirupur in Tamil Nadu, India’s then-thriving garment manufacturing capital, to understand how he could venture into the business. With him, he also carried a few pieces of child wear that he had sourced from friends abroad, as a reference for the quality of the product that he was looking to make.

“I was thinking both domestic and international,” Thomas says. But Tirupur was something of a rude shock. Thomas found himself in a market near the railway station, with tiny shops, that had their stitching units outside, from where clothes were dispatched to various states under different labels. “When I enquired with them, they asked me if I wanted to sell domestic or international,” Thomas says. “If it was domestic, I had to buy from there. If it was international, I had to have a minimum order quantity. It was the first time I had heard of that concept.”

But Thomas wasn’t startled. Instead, he found a supplier, who would meet his demand for quality, and soon began working with a minimum order quantity, which is usually the minimum number of units a business is willing to sell to a customer in a single order. He also turned down an offer to join a television news channel, IndiaVision, much to the disdain of his family who had wanted him to remain a journalist.

Starting his own business also came with its own set of challenges. For one, in an era when customers didn’t bother about branded clothes for their kids, and when cheaper alternatives were easily available, Thomas’ products were significantly expensive. He could only sell for ₹60 what was otherwise available at ₹6.

“People in the Malabar region have a mindset to help others,” Thomas says. “Shops in the region started keeping my products. That gave me confidence.” Thomas also realised that he needed to set up a factory in Kerala if he had to make timely deliveries as business was slowly picking up steam, and shipments from Tirupur took time.

Saviour at the Bank
Setting up a small factory was no cheap affair. His family had already been opposed to the idea of doing business, which meant Thomas now had to turn to banks to raise capital. “I made a project report, and submitted it to the bank,” Thomas says. It was a branch where his father, a businessman, had a loan limit of ₹1 crore. “I wanted ₹10 lakh. But the manager wasn’t convinced by my business plan. He asked me ‘why don’t you start a curry powder business’ since people always want food. I told him babies are born every day and clothes for them were essential too.”

But his plea fell on deaf ears and was finally sanctioned a loan for ₹1 lakh without collateral. With his personal savings of another ₹4 lakh, he bought machines from Chennai. “All I knew was that if I set out to do something, I will complete it,” Thomas says. He soon set up a small factory, combining a few rooms in Thirunelly in Kerala. The idea was that the raw material would come from Tirupur, and the workforce in Kerala would do the final stitching before it was dispatched.

Thomas, however, was still desperate for working capital to keep the business running. It was around this time that a new manager had come to the branch and Thomas would visit him every day to pitch his business. “I used to tell him about my ambitions,” Thomas says. “I was particular about cleanliness and having everything in order and would invite him to my factory.” Finally, after much persuasion, the manager visited the factory and was quite impressed. “Within two days, he added another ₹9 lakh to my loan, and that’s how I started.,” Thomas says. “If that hadn’t happened, I would have shut down.”

With the additional funds, Thomas soon began expanding and selling products across Kerala. By 2005, Thomas was married, and his wife also joined him in the business, helping design products. His background in journalism also helped, as he began putting advertorials in evening newspapers about the importance of buying high-quality kids’ wear. By 2010, Popees changed its logo, a turning point in its growth trajectory. That splendid run lasted until 2019, Thomas says, when Popees would only be able to meet 70 percent of its demand and had already been distributing in markets including Punjab and New Delhi.

It was around this time that Thomas began toying with the idea of its retail stores. “My cycle was very long,” Thomas says. “Once you reach a certain turnover, you need to reduce your time. That’s how I thought of my showroom. Until then they were sold in other retail outlets.” The yarn for Popees clothes comes from organic cotton farmers in Ahmedabad, and the manufacturing is done in Tirupur, based on designs given by Popees. Only the final assembly and last round of stitching is done in its factory.
“I was scared to foray into retail,” Thomas says, “My business was already at about ₹74 crore, and I was worried if stores would stop taking my products. With floods in Kerala and Nipah virus in Kozhikode, there was uncertainty already in the market.”

Still, Thomas took the plunge and set up a proto store outside the company’s headquarters. That was a success, with customers flocking to the store and buying in bulk, with the store generating ₹5 lakh in sales. In 2019, Popees opened its first retail outlet in a 1,500 sq ft showroom in Kochi, before starting in Trivandrum and Bengaluru.

But Covid-19 came as a dampener. In early 2020, Thomas had almost finalised a deal with a private equity (PE) major to raise ₹100 crore for a 26 percent stake sale. The due diligence had been completed, and everything seemed on track before the PE firm pulled out after uncertainties about the future. Thomas had also met actor Aishwarya Rai Bachchan to bring her on board as the brand ambassador for Popees.

With Covid-19 shutting down operations, Popees turned to manufacturing masks and clothes for children, all given for free in Kerala during the pandemic. Simultaneously, though, it went on an expansion spree with its retail outlets going from some six stores to over 30 in two years. Today, the company has 70 stores, 35 of which are franchise-invested, company-operated while the others are franchise-owned, franchise-operated. Twenty more stores are expected to be completed this year, with the company gearing up for a launch in the UK and Australia, apart from the UAE.

There is also a focus on omni-channel distribution, with Thomas saying that as much as 30 percent of his clientele chooses to buy products online. The company already sells on ecommerce platforms. Today, it has the capacity to make 5 lakh garments monthly.

Alongside, it has moved to manufacturing everything from baby oil and soap to baby wipes and fabric wash. The product range includes toys, baby soap, body wash, shampoo, lotions, and towels, among others, although a significant share of the sales still come from clothes. “I have three children, and much of what we did was also keeping them in mind,” Thomas says.

That’s why he prefers not to give discounts on products, instead focusing entirely on the quality. “I am obsessed with product and quality,” Thomas says. “We can also provide discounts after raising our markups significantly. But we don’t want such high margins.” The company has now hired a new designer in Bengaluru to bring in a premium collection, which Thomas says, will put Popees in a different league in the next few years.

“We don’t want a lot of money,” Thomas says. “We didn’t have children for a few years after marriage. People are praying and waiting for children. So, you have a responsibility to give good products. If you give good products, they will always come.”

“While the large proportion of those are born to families in low-income segments, there is still a substantial number born to households that are middle and upper income,” adds Dutta of Third Eyesight. “Also, as incomes are growing and the size of families is reducing, the budget available per baby is climbing, which is obviously a strong driver of market growth.”

All that means, for Thomas, the baby steps are now complete. It’s time for the sprint, and the 47-year-old is all set for that.

(Published in Forbes India)

Reliance cuts 11 per cent of workforce on retail cool-off

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August 9, 2024

Sagar Malviya and Rica Bhattacharyya, Economic Times
9 August 2024, Mumbai

Reliance Industries Ltd. reduced its workforce by 42,000, or nearly 11%, in FY24, in what is being seen as an outcome of a cost-efficiency drive and reduced hiring, especially in its retail segment which also saw store closures and slower expansion.

The employee strength at the country’s largest company by market value, stood at 347,362 in FY24 compared with 389,414 a year ago. The intake of new recruits was slashed by more than a third to 171,116, according to its latest annual report.

“The new lines of businesses (at Reliance) have matured now and have significant support from digital initiatives. Now they are at a stage to better manage the operations with optimum strength,” said an analyst with a leading broking firm, requesting not to be named. “It doesn’t mean that the numbers (of headcount) won’t increase when new business opportunities emerge and strategy changes. They understand very well how to drive cost management and efficiency.”

Most of the job cuts were in its retail business, whose 207,552 employees last fiscal accounted for about 60% of RIL’s total employee strength. The number was 245,581 in FY23.

“Overall voluntary separations in FY24 are lower than FY23. The retail industry typically has a high employee turnover rate, especially in store operations,” RIL said in the report, adding that its employee benefits expense increased by 3% year-on-year to Rs 25,699 crore. In FY23, it had gone up by 33%.

In FY23, Reliance Retail expanded its physical store network, adding more than 3,300 new stores to take the total store count at the end of the year to 18,040. In FY24, the store count stood at 18,836–a net addition of some 800 after factoring in unviable store closures.

Last year, RIL’s online wholesale format JioMart aligned its operations with Metro Cash and Carry, which it acquired. With the addition of Metro’s permanent workforce of 3,500 employees, there was an overlap of roles, both in the backend and online sales operations.

Experts said many of the large conglomerates are rebadging some of the front-end service functions to third-party rolls.

“Many companies in the retail sector have been getting people off their own roles and appointing staffing companies for a leaner structure and efficient management. This may reflect as a drop in headcount (on the company reports) but need not necessarily be loss of jobs,” said Lohit Bhatia, president of workforce management at Quess Corp. “This could include functions such as security guards at the store level, facility management, logistics, picking and packing, etc. That apart, digitisation and tech advancement is also leading to some job roles being redundant across sectors.”

India’s retail sales expansion slowed to 4% last year after a surge in spending across segments—from clothes to cars—in the post-pandemic period, triggered by revenge shopping. Reliance’s retail division, however, grew 18% in sales to Rs 3,06,848 crore.

“Focus on store productivity usually happens in cycles; we have seen consumers unleash their spending post pandemic, which led to retailers expanding their network or square footage. However, if some of the stores are unviable, then management teams are now highly objective, even ruthless, and will shut stores,” said Devangshu Dutta, founder of retail consulting firm Third Eyesight. “In addition, any company planning to list would like to have healthy and lean operations, although we cannot pin-point it to Reliance in this case.”

Another analyst, who did not wish to be named, said, “Reliance’s annual report reveals that the group, spanning petrochemicals, telecom, and retail, has moved beyond its core investment phase and is now poised to reap substantial benefits from operating leverage, efficiency gains, and investments in technology and talent.”

(Published in Economic Times)