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A large base of European and American
customers is already served from India, with almost 70 per cent
of apparel exports headed to the US and EU. Even as these companies
are growing their sourcing from India, other customers are also
starting to build up their presence, directly or through indirect
relationships.
Even while the sun sets on the quota regime Indian exporters
are also targeting non-quota market, including Australia, Japan,
West Asia, South Africa and Latin America.
Opportunities for consumer brands
India has one of the largest and one of the fastest growing
economies in the world. It has averaged an annual GDP growth
rate of over 6 per cent over the last several years, and this
is improving the overall prosperity of the population. The consumer
market was already relatively well-developed which is improving
further with favourable factors such as rationalisation of taxes,
reduced import tariffs, and a growing young segment that is
willing to spend more.
International brands already present in the market include
Benetton, Lacoste, Levi Strauss, Crocodile, Dockers, Lee, Wrangler,
Nike, Reebok, Adidas, Zegna, and Marks & Spencer. There
is also a boom in retail development: organised retailing projected
to grow from a 0.8 per cent share to 5 per cent by 2005, of
a $170 billion market (in absolute terms) [a $935 billion market,
in PPP terms]. This is being enabled by development of retail
infrastructure such as mall space. |
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However, as many companies have discovered
in the last ten years, this opportunity needs to be qualified.
Before you get any starry-eyed visions of a billion consumers
for your brand, do a sanity-check - depending on the product and
its price, your market may be half-a-million people in 6 cities,
or 20 million in 25 towns. Very few companies, such as Unilever,
can actually aim to reach out to 500 million Indian consumers
or more.
For example, when the Indian car industry was de-regulated
in 1993 it had only three major car models, whereas now it includes
Suzuki, Honda, Toyota, General Motors (Opel-Vauxhall, Chevrolet
/ Subaru), Ford, Daimler-Chrysler (Mercedes), Hyundai, Volkswagen
(Škoda), Mitsubishi etc and new Indian manufacturers
as well. However, though the Indian car market sells around
580,000 units a year and cars in the C-segment or higher are
growing, only 10,000 Mercedes-Benz have reportedly been sold
in the last 8 years.
The lesson is that, while the consumer market is sizeable
and certainly growing, it is important that each company carries
out a structured assessment of the potential for its products,
before beginning to build any expectations.
Opportunities for industrial suppliers and tertiary
suppliers
As the industry grows, opportunities for suppliers to the industry
are also growing. This includes raw material manufacturers (fibre,
yarn, fabric, trims) and machinery manufacturers. India appears
to be a competitive and sustainable hub of production globally,
and therefore manufacture-suppliers are investing in India as
a growing market.
Import duties have been brought down for industrial supplies,
and are likely to come down even further. For example, while
a few years ago the import duty on manufacturing equipment was
25 per cent, this has been reduced to 5 per cent. India is also
an emerging market for used and refurbished machinery.
In fabrics, while duties are still high for sale in the domestic
market, the duty-levels are as low as a fifth of what they were
a few years ago. The government is committed to bringing tariffs
down further in compliance with the WTO framework. Also, fabrics
can be imported free of duty if they are made up into garments
and re-exported.
The government is trying to balance between the interests
of domestic fabric manufacturers who wish to keep competition
out and apparel manufacturers who want to have access to a wide
variety of fabrics from the most economical sources. However,
over time significant reduction is likely in import duties on
fabrics and other raw materials as the apparel industry grows
and domestic raw material manufacturers also improve their capabilities.
Specific opportunities for industrial suppliers include wool,
manmade fibre fabrics (especially functional fabrics, such as
protective fabrics), industrial textiles, geo-textiles, products
for medical applications, accessories and trims.
Indian yarn and fabric companies are also importing raw material
to achieve product variety. For example, India does not produce
significant quantities of apparel-grade wool and is now the
third largest customer for Australia, with companies such as
Raymond, VXL and Reid & Taylor producing world-class worsted
suiting fabrics. Similarly, many companies have imported speciality
yarns from Europe and the Far East to achieve greater variety
in their knitwear ranges.
Opportunities also exist for tertiary suppliers for support
products such as labels, software, hardware (eg barcode scanning
equipment, testing and inspection equipment), with the growing
need for improving standardisation and quality levels. This
is also an area where customers (retailers and brands) are a
driving force, as they are asking their factories to upgrade
their capabilities.
Services are another area for growth. The immediate opportunities
for service providers (logistics, technical, consulting, legal
and finance) are arising out of the growing need for improvement
of standards, productivity and compliance and an increasing
willingness among Indian factories to invest in services.
Opportunities for investment
Foreign Direct Investment (FDI) is on the up-trend, and has
been for several years. Policies related to foreign investment
have been fairly transparent, though the process is not always
easy. India has a structured, multi-tiered administrative, political
and legal system that would be familiar in nature to European
and American investors.
FDI in the apparel and textile industry has been recently
opened up, as liberalisation has gathered steam. Manufacturing
is a thrust area for the Indian government, as Indian industry
and the government see foreign companies more as partners in
building domestic manufacturing capabilities rather than a threat
to Indian businesses. Following this through, the central government
as well as various states are executing schemes such as integrated
textile and apparel parks.
Although direct investment in retail remains closed to FDI
as of now, companies have found alternative structures through
which they can approach Indian consumers (examples include Levi
Strauss, Marks & Spencer, Royal Sporting House, adidas,
Nike and Reebok in fashion products). There is certainly a broader
opportunity to "grow the market from inside" as companies can
freely set up fully-owned sourcing (liaison) offices, as well
as marketing operations.
Other than sourcing liaison offices, a number of companies
are already present in India through joint ventures, strategic
alliances and other forms of relationship, as shown in the table
below. |
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