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Over the past few years, the Internet
has been revolutionising the way we interact with each other,
as individuals, as companies or corporate entities, providing
a mass of information keeps growing with no end in sight. With
cheap and direct access, we can quite simply move around with
a few clicks, most of the time locate what we want, make an informed
(and even comparison-based) decision, and exit. Surely, as many
pundits forecast, the Internet should bring an end to intermediation
of any sort. Well, yes. And no.
Yes, the Internet makes information
more easily accessible to everyone. Every week
there are literally thousands of websites, hundreds of portals
and at least a few dozen exchanges that spring up. These get
hit upon either directly, or via the many search engines that,
in turn, are also constantly updating and fine-tuning their
search algorithms, pushing to create sensible shortlists that
are useful for the researcher. One is even named after the butler
created by P. G. Wodehouse, with the implicit claim that it
will anticipate your needs even before you know of them! However,
these are only attempts at generating intelligence (at best),
more often just information, quite a lot of which is unintelligible,
and very far from the "knowledge" that we human beings seem
to create in our minds quite automatically as we go about doing
our tasks. Just a few days ago, I was searching for hotels in
the US - what I downloaded was a morass of information, and
I spent a whole day sorting through it. In this case I could
have just as well requested a trusted travel agent to come up
with a few appropriate options for me, from which I could have
booked my choice.
Our minds are, yet, the best-known computer to man, in terms
of versatility. Our minds can store enormous amounts of data
- a surprising amount remains in long-term memory (despite the
fact that often we can't seem to remember the name of the person
that we just met in the lift!). More importantly, we can connect
and inter-relate seemingly unrelated items of information, for
example, creating travel itineraries covering flights, hotels
and various other details into a plan that is most effective
and efficient keeping in mind the time constraints, costs and
our objectives for travelling. We are still not fully-there
from robot programmes which will automatically find you the
best prices, and the most convenient locations or times, let
alone do that for hotels AND flights AND trains and any other
items that your itinerary contains. Travel is actually probably
one of the simpler examples - you could still create parameters
which, provided the base information about price, time or location
is provided by the service providers, can be used in programmes
that can analyse patterns of new and past data, and revert with
some shortlisted options.
Let us think of a more complex example - the
textile and apparel supply chain . It is one of
the most fragmented industries, and possibly one of the most
global in terms of trade flows. There are multiple layers of
raw materials and intermediate products, most of which pass
through some sort of intermediaries (such as commission agents,
stockists, importers etc.). In such a form the industry is a
prime candidate for opening out to the Internet, where suppliers
can create their websites, or store their information through
other platforms (such as "exchanges") which can be accessed
by buyers from around the world - easy to set up, independent
of time zones and very very low cost. Get rid of the multiple
layers that mostly add costs, book orders directly, get rid
of stocks… sounds like a heaven-sent opportunity!
Well, that is how it is being seen by the 70-80 exchanges
that have come up around the world, or are in various stages
of being set up. Some of these have been set up by existing
industry players, some by technology companies, and yet others
by people who have set up exchanges in other sectors who believe
that similar business principles can be applied to the textile
and apparel supply chain as they have applied in the other sectors.
This should dramatically raise the direct access between
suppliers and customers - be the end of agents and other intermediaries
- and basically make millions for the companies promoting the
exchanges!
Yet, around the world, retailers and brands that buy finished
products and raw material do not seem to be rushing to stake
any significant proportion of their purchases to web-based sourcing.
And there are multiple reasons for that.
Firstly, such a proliferation of exchanges seems to be only
a reflection of the fragmentation, and there does not seem the
likelihood that any clearly dominant player will emerge in the
next few months. There is little or no differentiation between
most of these exchanges - most of them offering a sophisticated
yellow pages capability, while others offer possibly a few add-ons
such as functionality that allows buyers to bid for stocks,
or suppliers to quote for products.
Secondly, in certain areas, buyers or suppliers themselves
have got involved in setting up exchanges. Some of these are
private web-based initiatives (such as Wal-Mart or Littlewoods
on the retail end, or LiFung.com or TheThread.com on the supply
side), while others apparently are more public and collaborative,
such as World-Wide Retail Exchange.
Closed web-based systems are excellent for
the company that is initiating it, because it enables the company
to streamline operational processes. However, it does create
another platform for people to adapt to, though web-based systems
are less painful certainly than EDI or other proprietary systems,
which require specific investments. Also, occasionally it brings
up the question of conflict of interest. For example, how comfortable
would one supplier feel in sharing internal information with
another supplier who has taken on an additional role?
Other initiatives, such as the WWRE, have
got off to a good start, but here internal stumbling blocks
are inevitable due to the composition of the groups. Consider
the WWRE: 27 retailers currently, in four separate areas of
operation (as diverse as food and clothing), with different
geographical bases, which make the business imperatives very
different for the various participants. Add to that the fact
that people are loath to share knowledge that is considered
proprietary by them, whether process knowledge or supplier contacts.
It is a long-drawn process of consensus management in such a
large initiative.
Thirdly, what kind of a service offer is the best?
As of now, there is are options available from various B2B service
providers, offering varying areas of benefit, from listing services
to "software solutions" for various applications, to loose working
relationships. Not only do the service offerings actually vary,
there are varying degrees of claims and counterclaims that muddy
the waters further.
The scenario is actually as confusing as it seems to be -
players, whether exchanges, portals or any other kind of company,
are dynamically evolving their business models, with changes
seemingly almost every week, and new players emerging all the
time. In such a scenario, buyers (who are early-adopters) will
get into as many exchanges as possible to get the maximum choice,
and to hedge their bets. On the other hand, the majority - which
comprises of buyers who adopt new technologies later - will
hold back to see which exchanges come up as the most widely
accepted or most appropriate for them.
Finally, whether we like it or not, textile and apparel
products are inherently emotional products. They are,
of course, driven by specifications, and those specs can be
defined fairly precisely. But what the specifications cannot
ever completely convey is how a buyer feels instinctively about
including a product in a range. Or, indeed, what the impact
would be of making some minor adjustments that can be visualised,
discussed and decided in an interactive session between a buyer
and a supplier. Or, for that matter, what is the best way to
reconfigure a supply chain, under pressure of a new order, or
an unforeseen delay in the process. Intermediation is something
that has become ingrained in the textile and apparel supply
chain.
In such a scenario, it is unlikely that intermediaries will
disappear immediately. What is certainly happening, however,
that while previously buyers were willing (or forced) to pay
for having access to information, pure information itself is
being made a commodity. In this frame of reference, companies
are seeking out "genuine value-for-money" before they will shell
out a buying or selling commission. Process or domain knowledge
is an absolute must - only this can enable web-based companies
to create unique and genuine value-adding web-solutions. Simply
putting up a 'telephone directory on the web' will fetch very
little in return. Even though a telephone directory has hundreds
thousands of entries, how much do you pay for it? Relationship-management
and process-management capability will remain in demand, and
many of the existing intermediaries certainly show a lot of
that.
Vertical integration
One of the most important developments that will certainly be
an accelerated outcome of the internet, will be the vertical
integration of the textile and apparel supply chain. While,
in the past, the very diverse nature of the stages of the supply
chain has created and maintained multiple layers, web-based
technologies are now enabling companies to structure and manage
the apparel supply chain from as early a stage as they wish
to, be that fabric, yarn or even fibre.
Breaking down size barriers
Another significant outcome is that the web breaks down "size"
barriers. Large retailers typically bought from large suppliers,
while small retailers typically did business with small suppliers.
Any "criss-crossing" (i.e. small companies dealing with larger
companies) needed middlemen - individuals or companies that
broke bulk or consolidated orders, for small or large retailers,
respectively. This had more to do with operating systems, management
capabilities and the scale needed for relationship management
than it did with actual barriers. Now, however, web-based systems
can allow some parity between organisations of different size,
because at a low cost the same level of functionality is available
to companies of all sizes, This is significantly changing the
balance of power, and the overall structure of the industry.
Scale was never the only surrogate measure of capability in
this industry, but the correlation between actual scale and
perceived or actual capability is getting even more vague over
the Internet.
The impact of the web on the textile and apparel industry
is not going to be immediate - it will take a while to permeate
the hundreds of thousands of companies that make up the supply
chain - so there is some breathing space.
But surely, in the next five years, the textile and apparel
supply chain that we shall be seeing, will be structured quite
differently from the existing supply chain. There will certainly
be some casualties. What is important is that
you - whether you are a supplier or a retailer - should start
taking cognisance of the changes to come, and begin changing
your own business to avoid being one of the casualties.
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